If you're like me, you're working on an arcade cabinet and waiting for buttons to arrive in the mail, and thinking to yourself, "gee, I sure love Pong, but there's no way I can bring down some paddle-slicing fury with a joystick." It's a common thought. It's also why I ultimately decided to include spinners (paddles) on my arcade machine. You can too, and here's how to do it for cheap.

You'll need:

1 old ball mouse
1 peanut butter lid (yes, really)
a bunch of small coins
some old Legos:
-1 four or six-peg axle
-2 small right-angle gears
-1 large wheel
-1 beam
-some spacer bits

Step 1: Cheap Spinner Interface

Old ball mice are a great cheap solution for spinners, like the ones for playing Breakout, Pong, and some non-ball-based driving games. Not only can you find them for free, but they don't require any drivers, and they come with two optical encoders (one per axis), so you can make controls for two players out of one mouse.

Just cut out the bare parts you need. That means keep the plastic that holds the encoder shaft in place, and try to leave enough extra to support the electronic bits. It doesn't hurt to have a good flat area to glue the whole thing down with either.

Step 2: Attach the Shaft Gear

It'd be nice if you could just extend the shaft, stick on a spinner, and call it done, but I tried that and it went horribly. Just not enough purchase to add on a rod. Instead, a right-angle gear will give us a compact, reliable connection.

Stick the gear on the shaft, leaving enough room for the mating gear. The tricky part is to keep the gear centered on the shaft. If you spin it while the glue is setting, you can tell what parts are off and gently correct them.

Step 3: Add the Electronic Bits

The mouse uses an infrared emitter and detector pair to tell what direction the wheel is spinning, and how fast it's turning. Which means that they are important and we should keep them.

Use a razor blade or rotary tool to relocate the section of circuit board with the optical parts. This helps ensure they're the same distance apart as they are meant to be, which turns out to be pretty crucial. Then use a few wires to solder the points back together. Finally, glue the whole thing down, taking care to keep everything aligned. You can leave the mouse plugged in while you do this to make sure that everything stays lined up.

Just be sure not to have the sun streaming in like I did, since that throws everything off.

Step 4: Make Spinners Better

We're going to give the spinners some heft to help them feel more expensive. They would work without this part, but they would feel a little off.

Lay down some pennies in the wheel before gluing to visualize the spacing. Glue them down in a star pattern to help keep the spacing even. Hot glue will let you stack 2 layers of pennies, super glue should be thin enough to stack 3. Fill up both sides for more weight.

Step 5: Glue on the Lid

What can I say, peanut butter lids just seem to be the right size. And for some reason, almost every brand in the US seems to use the same kind.

Put a ring of hot melt glue around the wheel, and stick the wheel in the lid. While the glue's hot, stick a few dimes in between the wheel and the lid to help keep everything centered.

Step 6: Paddle Assembly

First insert the paddle axle, then lego bracket (6 bar in the pic), spacers, side gear, the wheel/knob, then finally the whole mouse gut assembly.

Step 7: Paddle Installation

Let's put all the parts in the machine. I stuck everything together on the front panel, then glued in the electronics once the panel was in place. In retrospect, it would've been simpler to assemble everything on the panel, electronics and all.

I used a couple scraps of MDF as a platform for the mouse parts.

If you keep the mouse plugged in while you install the paddles, you can make sure everything stays working as the glue sets.

One great thing about hot glue is that you can sort of control the working time of it by varying the temperature of the glue gun.

Step 8: Use Them!

For bonus points, add some black or chrome contact paper to the lid to make it less lid-like.

MAME supports a bunch of spinner-related games, but sadly, Pong is not one of them. You'll have to search for some sort of support for games that don't fit in, misfits, if you will.
<p>If you want to play original Pong and other Pong variants I'd grab the Dice Emulator. It emulates circuit-based arcade games from the 70's.</p>
<p>Nice Instructable. Atari decided not to use the Pong name whenever they were going to release the cartridge. They called it Video Olympics. My guess is because they wanted to emphasize that it did more than just play Pong. You could use MESS, which is closely related to MAME and runs a varity of hardware. Although, I would say that Stella is a much better Atari emulator. I had a lot of trouble getting the mouse inputs in MESS to work correctly. </p>
<p>Good to know. Thanks!</p>
Great work, Any chance of a video to show it in use?
I made one a few years ago for my MAME cabinet using a laser mouse. I attached a large washer to the bottom of the hard drive spinner I was using, then positioned the laser mouse to read the rotation. It worked great. (My pics turned out horrible, otherwise I'd post them.)
That's a smart way to do it. Mechanically much simpler too. I'll have to try it out on the next one.
Yeah, when I saw other people in the community using ball mice to do it, I wondered why they weren't just using a laser mouse. It made sense to me, yet no one else appeared to have tried it.<br>It has since fallen apart, but 2.0 will be made soon. Here's the absolutely terrible photo I took back then:<br>
You can use a Mouse-keyboard emulator if you really wanted to use this for pong... maybe something like 1 degree of rotation = 1 press of arrow key...
Luckily the mouse works really well; one turn of the wheel moves the paddle evenly from one side of the screen to the other. But that's a handy thing to know about for the future.
Very cool!<br>I actually did this a few years ago but with an arcade trackball.<br>Worked perfectly for what I need it for.
Cool. I'd like to see a picture of that.
Those are very interesting...uh...&quot;dimes&quot; you have there.
Pennies are on the inside. 3 dimes are crammed in between the wheel and the lid.
i believe hes saying that those might be nickels..
Ah. Nope, dimes. I tried just using pennies, but they weren't thin enough. Of course, different cap/wheel combos may require all sorts of currency.
Very nice work, your machine looks really good, Kudos to you for all your efforts, I hope you enjoy playing it as much as you seem to have enjoyed making it.
Thanks! I've had fun with both, but the playing it fun is easier to share.

About This Instructable




More by Sam Freeman:Robopunk Bluetooth Speaker Goggles Cheap, Fast, and Awesome - DIY Photobooth Button LED Atomic Goggles 
Add instructable to: