Don't get me wrong, I think the entry level brew kits are a good value. They include some special equipment not used here that will make things easier. But, will you enjoy the beer or find the brewing process rewarding? I think so. This project will allow you to find out for yourself.
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Signing UpStep 1Equipment
- Brew pot - any large kitchen pot that will hold a couple of gallons of water with room to spare to avoid boiling over.
- Kitchen strainer - to strain grains and hops before going to the fermenter
- Kitchen thermometer
- Large funnel
- Rolling pin - for crushing the grain
- 3 gallon container of bottled water - this will provide you with the water to make your beer and serve as your fermentation container
- Bottling container - An empty container of at least 3 gallons...could be another empty water bottle or a clean, scratch-free, food grade plastic bucket.
- 3 feet of 3/8" clear poly-vinyl tubing - for siphoning and fermentation air lock
- Bottles - there are a lot of options here and I'll cover some of them in the bottling step later
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12 oz bottle 3/4 tsp
16oz bottle 1tsp
22 oz bottle 1 1/2 tsp
1 liter bottle 2 1/2 tsp
2 liter bottle 1 1/2 tbsp
3 liter bottle 2 1/4 tbsp
its that easy and you dont have any where near as much risk of to much or not enough sugar when bottling as you do using a sugaring solution mixed with the wort
Shipyard makes a fantastic seasonal Blueberry Smash ale.... and I thought it was one of the fines beers I've ever tasted.
Storing your beer in a Barrel allows the fizz to develop AND the sediment to fall to the bottom leaving nice clear beer to draw off.
For a truly complete solution a pressured beer barrel is the answer so you don't have to open the top to let the bees and Carbon dioxide out.
good luck to alll I my opinion alcohol is a hormone to mammals as ethylene is a hormone to plants. But i'm weird
dry hopping.
1. The addition of loose dry hops to the primary fermenter (when the wort has cooled down to 75 °F, 24 °C), the secondary fermenter, or to casked beer to increase the aroma and hop character of the finished beer without significantly affecting its bitterness. Homebrewers usually add 50-60 grams of aroma hops or hop pellets per 5-gallon batch during primary or, more often, secondary fermentation. Hop extracts are not recommended for dry hopping because they may contain traces of the organic solvents used for their extraction. 2. In England, dry hopping more specifically refers to the addition of fresh hops to a cask of draft beer when it is racked from the primary fermenter.
Some people carry it to extremes... do a web search on "Hops" + Randall" and you'll see what I mean.
The diacetyl comment is well taken.
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/
The American Homebrewers Association (AHA) has all sorts of information and support for both the new and the experienced homebrewer and
http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html
John Palmer's book is available for free online. The online edition is 2 prior to the one that is currently in print but the brewing information is virtually identical.
Disclosures...... I am a member of the AHA. I am a satisfied user of John Palmer's website and paid cash money for a hardcopy of the book.
Brown PET bottles are also available from homebrew stores (at least here in Australia). These are perfectly fine for storing beer (as good as glass) and easier to clean and handle (bottling is much faster with these babies). I'd recommend them if you can find them.
Then fill it up with warm hot water and let it stand after rinsing to get rid of any left over detergent residue