Step 2:

Cut the board along the diagonal. Use a hobby knife and a metal ruler or other straight-edge guide to cut out copper to make a trace along the long edge of each piece. Orient the cuts to mirror each other. Then also cut two 1/4" by 3/8" copper-clad rectangles for spacers between the two blades.

TRICKS FOR CUTTING THE GROOVES: Xacto-type blade will break off at the tip while cutting the copper because you have to press down pretty hard, but that's fine. Keep using the blade even after the tip breaks off. When it dulls, just break more off the tip with a needle-nose pliers (WEAR EYE PROTECTION) to get back to a sharp edge. Sometimes I snap off the blade tip before I even start so there are no surprises while cutting. You can save old blades for this because most get dull only near the tip. To get a clean open groove in the copper, cut once to get a line, then cut a a few times with the blade angled to one side, then a few more with the blade angled the other way. The angles make a clean beveled edge on the copper.
I like your design better than my design!
Just a few thoughts . . .<br> <br> Single sided PCB would be better, to avoid the possibility of shorting out anything the outside surfaces accidentally touch.<br> <br> Even then, sweaty fingers could give false readings if they touch the edges of the inner surface copper.<br> <br> How about narrower blades on the tweezer, insulated down to the tip with heat-shrink ?<br> <br> Or a single strip of PCB, about 1/4&quot; wide, divided up the middle to provide two tracks, with two pins or wires soldered to the tip ?<br> <br> Or 1/4&quot; wide double sided PCB, tapered near to the tip, with a wire probe soldered to each side, again insulated with heat-shrink ?
great instructable!!! easy to make!

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