This is an instructable on the best conductive glue I have been able to make that uses easy to obtain materials, glues well to most materials, is quite flexible and has a low resistance. Unfortunately for me, it uses a rubber or plastic mixture that I do not know the chemical composition of, so I cannot patent it.

There are many kinds of conductive epoxies, glues, and rubbers available. Unfortunately, they are for the most part quite expensive.
So, for more than four years, I have been trying every possible combination of likely elements, compounds, and solvents that I could get my hands on, in order to make my own truly affordable conductive glue. While I have found several that have excellent low conductivity, they tend to be quite brittle and have a tendency to crack. The conductive glue presented here does not have these problems.

Because this glue is quite flexible and you can vary its resistance, it has potential for different kinds of paint on sensors for robots or other devices. It should be possible to paint on strain gauges on the outside of a regular glove and use it for virtual reality or other control possibilities. Touch sensors and membrane switches can be painted on various flexible or rigid surfaces.

It can be used to paint on wires and resistors and as a glued solder joint. It can also be used to paint on strain gauges, temperature sensors, electromagnetic shielding, antennas, and push-button switches. I suspect, that with more experimentation, it may be possible to use it to create capacitors, diodes and transistors.

Step 1: Materials for the Conductive Glue and Circuit

Carbon Graphite, fine powder-Available in larger quantities at http://www.elementalscientific.net/

Available in smaller quantities at your local hardware store. It's called lubricating graphite and comes in small tubes or bottles. The brand I used successfully is called AGS Extra Fine Graphite, but no doubt there are other brands that will also work.

Performix(tm) liquid tape, black-Available at Wal-Mart or http://www.buytape.com

Mixing cups or glass container

1/4 and 1/2 teaspoon measuring spoons

Glass or plastic mixing rod

Cardboard for stencil

Toluol paint thinner (optional)-Available at most hardware stores.

Conductive thread (optional)-Available in larger spools at http://members.shaw.ca/ubik/thread/order.html It is available in smaller spools at

Circuit materials of your choice
<p>you can shop on ebay cheaper : http://www.ebay.com/itm/322377451443?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649</p>
<p>I will point out that not all graphite is of the same electrical conductivity. The standard #2 pencil is made of wood and graphite. I have measured large differences in conductivity between different batches of pencil graphite. I don't know why. The pencils write on paper the same. Perhaps wax is added to the mix? I also have a 1lb can of Dixon #2 powdered lubricating flake graphite. It has zero conductivity.</p>
<p>Interesting. Pencils come in a wide range of hardness, going from B which is the softest and has the most graphite to the H end of the scale that has the least. The other component is kaolin clay which would an insulator. Did the pencils that varied have the same hardness?</p>
<p>Cute, but fake., I just burned some wood, tested with ohm meter, there is no conductivity at all. You can't make conductive carbon by burning wood. I'm sure there's a way to make conductive glue, but probably by using metal shavings or something similar. </p>
<p>You can get conductive carbon powder from wood but it will need to be heated to a very high temperature to drive off all of the hydrogen and oxygen. Eight or nine hundred degrees C is required.</p>
<p>What about toner powder? It have good magnetic properties.</p><p> It could be a cheap alternative to graphite if you reuse an old toner.</p>
<p>Isn't printer toner carcinogenic?</p>
I needed to retrofit an LED into a plastic incandescent bulb socket. To small to solder, this worked well. I only had the aerosol liquid tape but it worked fine. Made it to a consistancy a bit thicker than water (lots of solvents in the aerosol variety) and used a toothpick to apply. First thin coat showed a tremendous amount of resistance variation from one end of the tape to the other. Applied a few more coats and added strands from a piece of 18AWG copper wire. The liquid tape was probably 2mm thick when done. Area was approximately 1x2cm. Worked like a charm, so many possibilities with this!
<p>Hi mate, thanks for the instructable! A good way to fix the fast drying time and to add flexibility is to use Gum Arabic. I use it in my conductive glues. Works very well.</p>
<p>Have anyone tried mixing in fine steel wool (copper wool would probably be even better) finely shredded with scissors (by repeatedly snipping off small bits) to obtain many separate short strands of very thin wire?</p>
<p>We wanted to use it as an interactive spider web to trigger the Theremin. It was to toxic. But the idea is awesome. For a small amount of adhesive compound at the time; scrap aluminum or other soft metal on a disk of a grinder, can give you a very fine metallic powder for our compound. But fine tread is the way to go. good call.</p>
<p>Also, have you tried using acetone based nail polish as the binder?</p>
<p>Cleaver, Also a easy way to colour code the connections in one operation. </p><p>Good call.</p><p>F.</p><p>If it's true that soldering is probably the best option, It is also like the learning curve of driving a Motorcycle. If you live on a boat 10 months per year, you might considering other option in what to use for your end. </p><p>We want to connect a Strip of 4 flat cable to a USB [B] type male connector at 90 * angle to protect the Vintage Electronic Board, or any others.</p><p>A none extrusive HDMI adapter would be awesome.</p>
<p>Graphite is fancy, but powdered charcoal is a cheaper conductor to mix in with whatever glue or resin of your choice. A mixture of charcoal or lamp black with graphite will also perform better than pure graphite powder in terms of electric conduction.</p><p>Reason has to do with the graphene layers that make up graphite. These graphene sheets will readily conduct electrons in their own plane, but not across/through/inter-sheet. In a powdered / fractured form the graphite will thus conduct better if it is &quot;spiked&quot; with carbon in the form of either powdered charcoal or lamp black.</p>
what can i use insteard of performix conducting tape
I am trying to connect to the + and - of a battery cell. These are calls I obtained by taking apart battery packs (14.4 V and 18 V). When done properly the tab which is welded to the battery posts is obtained and one can solder to the tab. Sometimes the tab comes off and I have nothing to solder to for connections.<br>Could i use the conductive glue you have explored to connect a copper tab to a battery post?<br>The glue needs some strength and low resistance and carry some amps of current.<br>Thanks, olrob<br>
Sorry.<br><br>This glue has too much resistance to carry large amounts of current.<br><br>With amps it will start to smoke.
Did you try grinding a silver spoon (knife, fork) and collect the silver particles? There are a number of silver epoxies around with excellent conductive properties. I was inquiring about one that I could buy for $25 for 5 grams but that weight corresponds to about 2 dabs ( two trials) with a dab of the epoxy between a cell post and a copper strip which is very expensive.<br><br>
<p>If you find a spoon that is real silver and not just plated, you will be better off selling it for the silver and buying alunimum powder or copper powder to use for your conductor.</p>
Thanks Mikey77. when I measure a 1&quot; tab that is welded to a + or - post I get 1.4 ohms from one end to the other with alligator clips on each end. Does any of your trials have a resistance near 1.4 ohms?<br><br>A 14.4 V Craftsman NICD battery pack delivers from 1.2 to 2.2 amps (quality &amp; price). It contains 12 1.2 V cells in series. NiMH cells can produce 3.2 to 4.5 amps at 1.2 V. Li-Ion cells are rated at 3.6 V and 2.6 amps each.<br>One of my applications is a Skil Twist battery powered screwdriver. It uses 2 NICD cells in series for 2.4 V and 2 amps in an intermittent operation. I would guess that each screwing operation would have 30 seconds on and 30 second off.<br>My Craftsman 14.4 v power screwdriver would work about the same (2 amps for 30 seconds).<br>Would your lowest resistance mixtures still smoke with a 2 amp 30 second cycle?<br>Thanks again.<br>
IMHO, trying to use makeshift materials as a conductor for high-current circuits is a mistake. I found that my local Batteries Plus store makes custom battery packs by spot-welding tabs to their rechargeable batteries. If your tab has fallen off, see if they'll put it back on for you. <br> <br>This instructable has tremendous value for low-current devices in creative uses. I've had great luck with Circuit Writer pens from Mouser and Radio Shack, but they're expensive ($20), have a small quantity, and dry out in about a year. <br> <br>If you want to try your luck, consider adding surface-mount LED's, capacitors and resistors directly to the pins of a mini-DIP package. I once did this with a 556 timer, using bits of adhesive tape barriers to create power rails and conductive zones.
I see that 3M&trade; 1181 EMI Copper Foil Shielding Tape has excellent conductivity (.005 ohm) and it's solderable. A small piece of the tape could be bonded to a battery post and a tab could be soldered to the tape. Their conductive acrylic pressure-sensitive adhesive is the key. Have you tried anything like that?<br>Thanks<br>
Unfortunately, this method won't work. While the tape itself is capable of carrying the required current, the problem comes from the adhesive side acting as an insulator. The only way to connect to the copper tape from the adhesive side is to clean off the glue and scrape away the oxide-like material just beneath it. Even then, it's difficult to get the tape to contact the battery with enough force to make a good connection. <br> <br>Getting foil tape to make a good, strong connection to a flat surface is a challenge on its own... especially when higher currents are involved. One of the best ways to do this would be to use a small spring taped to the end of the battery, then slip the tape or wire under the spring to remain tightly fixed against it.
<p>Really interesting, thanks.</p>
you do know that it advertises the liquid tape as an INSOLATOR right?
<p>Once you fill an insulator with a conductor though, it conducts. Rubber insulates too, then we jam a piece of copper through it and sell it at home depot as &quot;insulated wire&quot;.</p><p>Okay, so we don't jam it through, we coat the copper, but same point.</p>
Yes, Liquid Tape is an INSULATOR. This instructable is about how you can turn an insulator into a conductor. Liquid tape is an insulating rubber which can be turned into a conducting rubber with the addition of carbon graphite.
<p>Good job, Keep it up. Very helpful :)</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>very helpful. As you may know when flowing schematics the wires in real life are always so much more tangled and messy but now they don't have to be.</p>
<p>I wonder if a mixture of copper filings and graphite might give you a lower resistance while keeping the ductility you achieved with this mixture&hellip;?</p>
<p>MY DREAM COME TRUE !!!!!!!!!!!</p><p>PS:can it be used for genral soldering</p>
<p>If it really is that good, then you should be able to make the product commercially then why don't you? It could be made to dispense from a tube with a dispenser that enables a thin circuit to be laid down.</p>
Did you try using more than 1-1/2:1? Perhaps it would be even better.
It's like soldering with no heat. :P
I have two keyboards that were damaged by water spills and was looking for a (cheap) way to fix them when I came across your article. <br> <br>Being cheap, I first tried a variation of the conductive glue idea using filed aluminum from a soda can aand clear paper glue, but it yielded 0 conductivity. I was forced to spend $2 on the lubricating graphite and try again, still with the Pentel brush glue as the base. It worked, but very weakly. The resistance was so high 2 AA batteries could barely make it through to light up an LED. I then tried wood glue as the base but came up with 0 conductivity. <br> <br>Sadly, my attempts at being MacGuyver all came up very short. I went out spent $8 bought some black liquid elec tape (Blue Magic brand) and tried again. YET AGAIN the conductivity was very poor, although slightly better than with the clear paper glue. But it was still too weak for a the chip in the keyboard to detect the signal. Unless I'm doing something terribly wrong, the graphite just doesn't seem conductive enough for almost any purpose to me. <br> <br>My last attempt involved gluing a staple to the keyboard membrane over the bad trace which looks like it is allowing slightly more current through. I have to wait for it to dry and see... <br> <br>Any of you thinking you can use this in place of solder, think twice.
Umm. I want to make sum conductive adhesive, too, but i dunno where to get Performix as i'm outta USA, nor do i know what i can use instead. Second problem i got is: what is the graphite for and how do i dose it? I came along sum other howto ( http://smackaay.com/2009/01/13/making-a-conductive-adhesive/ ) and so i got sum useful glue plus the mentioned iron filings, but yet no idea for the graphite's use and its amount. <br>I would really appreciate, if you could help. Though knowing instructables, i came here via your website and i'd say that the pict of your trials with different materials are proof enough of your competence, so maybe could you even give a comment about the benefit of the alien howto? <br> <br>Greetz, <br>Luke
<br>Nice I can use this. Thanks. <br><br>The link http://www.Inklesspress.com/electronic_parts_2.htm<br>for smaller spools conductive thread doesn't work.<br><br><br>
this should work with other plastics and epoxy resein right?<br>
Yes, but you will have to try your own formulations. I have tried with pva school glue and an organic-solvent-synthetic-rubber glue, but this late one is more hard to handle because it cures to fast. I have tried epoxy resin also and it performed very badly.
Have you tried hot glue?
No, but I guess it will not work. I cannot even imagine a way to do it, maybe you will have to make your own sticks with metal powder heavily embedded on it.
You could make a mold of the glu gun sticks, melt the glue, mix in the graphite in and mould it back into shape
how well did the school glue work?
It works well to make paper circuits, check it at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2l9fKVTICw
that's better:&nbsp;<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2l9fKVTICw">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2l9fKVTICw</a>
I didnt read all the comments but has anyone tried metal shaving? I work on cars and ive grind down some pipes before. And im left with this metal dust. So couldnt i use that alone with the glue?
You probably could, i dont see why not.
Excellent Instructable and you &quot;did an Edison&quot; in your search for a solution to a common problem. Bravo!<br>
What are you using for this circuit, where is you diagram? Interesting instructable, but it could use a little more explanation. However, if you have included these things, they are so buried in words it's nearly impossible to find them. ie: clarification, please!

About This Instructable




Bio: I believe that the purpose of life is to learn how to do our best and not give in to the weaker way.
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