How To Convert Any Camera Into Infrared Thermal Camera Very Cheap But Useful Hack . Every Camera Sensor Has Ability To See Infrared i.e. Thermal Part of The Light But The Infrared Blocking Filter Inside Digital Camera's Protects The CCD Sensor From Burning With High Energy Infrared Light Such as Sunlight .

Now , If We Remove The Blocking Infrared Filter The Camera Can Also Able To See Infrared Part of The Spectrum of Light ! Which Is Pretty Cool Because After This Hack You Can See Hot Objects With Your Camera Glowing More As They Emit More Infrared Energy & Many Other Things You Can Do Like See Through Some Clothes , Black Objects Which Takes Teardown To a Next Level !

Even The Cheapest Seek Thermal Camera Is 200$ Compared To This DIY Which Can Be Done with any cheap HD Video Camera ! Which Seek Thermal Camera Don't Have .

Now You Have Ability To See Through Objects & Know The Temprature Almost Like The Professional Camera's Fujifilm X-T1 & Sony Xray Cameras or The Seek ,Flir Thermal Imaging Camera Just For Very Cheap !

Watch Full video Here https://youtu.be/IdJgxNVVrs4

Step 1: How Does It Works ?

Every Digital Camera Has CCD Sensor Which Is Capable To See Infrared Spectrum of the light ,but since long exposure of infrared light can cause permanent damage to the sensor ,so infrared blocking filter is used to solve this problem .

If We Remove Infrared Filter From Lens It Is Possible To See Infrared Beauty !

1)In First Image You Can See Normal Image Vs Infrared Image

2)In Second Image There Are Different nm lens Filters Are Used To acchive Different Effects .

So Theoretically You Can Use Any Camera For This Hack Like Your Dslr, Cellphone Camera or a(10$) Dashcam Just Like I Used , Remember Cheaper The Camera Easier Your Job Will Be

Step 2: Modify Your Camera !

★☆★ Buy Parts from your online local store ★☆★
1) Dash Cam http://geni.us/OhBh

1. Open Your Camera

2. Remove The CCD Sensor By Disconnecting Flex Cable

3. Detach Lens Mechanism From Sensor

4. Now You Have Successfully Separated Lens From CCD Sensor

5. Into The Lens Part Remove The Collimating Lenses

6. You Will See Reddish Looking Infra-Red Blocking Filter

7. Remove This Infra red Filter With Screwdriver

8. Now Insert The Collimating Lens again in Its Place

9. Fit The Camera Properly

Step 3: Things Under Infrared Thermal Camera !

Here Are Few Things Under This Infrared Thermal Camera Which Are Looking Interesting!

1. A USB Lighter Showing Heat More Sensitively Than Normal Camera

2. Moto E Showing Normal Led

3. Moto E Showing Proximity Sensor Flasing

4. You Can See Circuit Board Inside Logitech Harmony Hub

5. Heated Soldering Iron But You Cant See Heat In Normal Camera

6. You Can See Heated Part of Soldering Iron Glowing

7. Clearly See Electronics Ics's or Componenent's Numbers

8. This Can Be Helpful If You Have Lots Of Unlabled Component Boxes

9. See The Part Number In Very Congested Spaces

10. A Normal Green Laser Pointer

11.A Normal Green Laser Pointer Also Emit Infrared Light In Random Direction

12.You Can See Through RFID Tags Easily

Step 4: Sample Images From Camera

Here Are Some Sample Images From Infrared Thermal Camera

1. Heated Soldering Iron

2.Eye Focused At Infinity

3.Eye Focused At Very Close Distance

4. A Usb Lighter Glowing

5. Looking Circuit Through A Harmony Hub

6.A Chip & Coil Inside RFID Tags

7.See Parts Number Very Easily

Step 5: Benifits & Features

1.Its Cheap Than Cheapest Thermal Camera Which is 200$ Seek Thermal camera I Built This Camera In Just 10 $

2.You Can Record 1080p Videos Which Is Not Possible With Any Thermal Camera In The Market Todate!

3.Take High Resolution Pictures

4. If You Want A Simliar RGB Thermal Camera Looks You can use Thermal Camera Android Apps

Step 6: Tell Me Your Thoughts

Here I Just Touched The Tip of The iceberg There's More To Explore Tell Me Your Thoughts

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<p>this is not a thermal camera! this is just a IR pass through - sensors in a cheap camera does not have the right Indium or galium substrate please dont mislead people </p>
<p>i have taken apart 2 different cameras looking for this filter.. neither have had them on the lens, if anything the filter seems to be on the component that is attached to the circuit board that the lens sits on top of.. and advice on how to remove it from there? some kind of solvent maybe?</p>
<p>I agree with a previous poster who could not get the lens to come apart. I purchased this exact model from eBay purely to modify it into an IR camera. I had no problems until the time came to separate the lens. Mine broke into pieces as well. Simply &quot;remove the collimating lens&quot; doesn't cut it when the collimating lens is impossible to separate from the main lens without destroying it. </p>
<p>Funny thing - had exactly the same unused dash camera. Thought will do experiment and ended up completely destroying it because i was impossible to remove lenses and when used a bit of force it simple broke into pieces... So be careful ;) BTW total loss for me &pound;5.00. No big deal :)</p>
<p>-Bom trabalho.</p>
Nicely done instructable. it was articulate and concise. And while I do have to agree with the &quot;haters&quot; that the premise is misleading, it's a nice guide for near Ir conversion. I did a similar project a while back. I used a galaxy s3 and mounted it in a cheap plastic vr headset with a did IR LED array to make poor man's night vision goggles. they work really well. just never got around to doing the instructable.
Hi, as stated below, this process is not thermal imaging. It is Near Infrared imaging. In my field of Spatial Science, It is often used via aerial photography to determine crop health and vegetation types. It's a nice useful instructable..though I too wish there was a moderator to amend the title of some instructables, my heart was racing with excitement until I realised it wasn't thermal.
<p>Well the author could correct the title as well as the egregious errors and misleading statements in the text if he were so inclined. But since pointing, shouting, shaming, heckling, mockery, jeering, and ridicule are discouraged on Instructables it could be a long wait. This policy may seem a pity in this case, but in general it's probably for the best to encourage the ignorant n00bs to express themselves without fear of a swarm of hateful screed targeting their tender egos for annihilation.</p><p>Sigh... I, too, felt a bit let down when I realized this article was merely Near IR, not Far IR. </p>
Well balanced &amp; fair comment Noah. I meant no discredit to the inventor and encourage him to continue his great and interesting work. I too would loathe this wonderful site/experience to degrade to the level of comments and brutal ego driven (or just incomprehensible) attacks seen on the likes of YouTube.
<p>I'm coming in late on this, but I'd like to offer my encouragement to the author to correct the errors and misleading statements in this article.</p><p>Violet is closer to Near Infrared than Near Infrared is to Far Infrared (measured in either frequency, wavelength, or photon energy (Hertz, meters, or Electron Volts)).</p><p>Again, this article covers Near IR, not Far IR. This is not thermal imaging. This is not even nearly thermal imaging. It's kind of a big deal. It's more than &quot;they aren't quite the same thing&quot;, and it's more than &quot;they aren't nearly the same thing&quot;. It's more like, &quot;No, they aren't the same&quot;. Yes, they both have the word &quot;red&quot; in them, but that's a bit of red herring.</p><p>The photos and decent instructions in this article are nice, but it's all a bit spoiled by the premise being completely and totally wrong. I'd be happy to help you off-line to identify and fix the errors if you like.</p>
<p>Nice job. You know what I find interesting, all of the individuals, who seem so very annoyed by the misuse of terms, have no instructables of their own. &lt;sarcasm&gt; I guess negative comments are are more rewarding than making something, which might allow someone else to learn something new. &lt;/sarcasm&gt;</p>
<p>In spite of all the negative haters. I think you did a great job of explaining how to do the conversion.</p><p>Take heart in the fact that not everyone here has a moral IQ of zero or less.</p><p>Thanks for this instructable :)</p>
<p>DANG! Quit hatin'. The dude figured out something that you couldn't, but didn't name it correctly. I think what he did is great. TWO THUMBS UP!</p>
<p>hello &quot;<a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/Kedar+Nimbalkar/" rel="nofollow">Kedar Nimbalkar</a>&quot;</p><p>i made one such as your but don't work !</p>
<p>Why are the words on this Instructables start with a capital letter?</p>
<p>It's very annoying...</p>
Thermal imaging requires liquid nitrogen and is not in the infrared spectrum.
Today most Thermal imaging by Flir and the Seek Termal work with out liquid nitrogen.
<p>So what DO they work with? Thermal implies temperature sensitivity. Temperature differences would not be possible to detect without a zero degrees or less, measureable baseline for thermal differences.</p>
<p>See this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermographic_camera#Uncooled_infrared_detectors. And thermal imaging at ambient temperature is on the IR spectrum, but the wavelength is longer than a normal camera can image (between 3000 and 14000 nm).</p>
<p>What you made here is IR camera but not THERMAL camera. Thermal camera is capable of detecting light with lower energy, which are emitted through black body radiation of relatively cold objects (such as us, humans) while IR camera you made is not sensitive enough for such radiation. The reason you see anything with your camera is that sun emits lots of IR spectrum and that light is differently adsorbed or reflected by different objects, yielding a greyscale image of IR light lidt environment.</p><p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wien%27s_displacement_law">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wien%27s_displacemen...</a></p><p>read above article to learn why thermal cameras are able to &quot;see&quot; warm bodies</p><p>And I am quite certain FLIR sells thermal camersa for android and IOS devices for 150&euro;... I doubt SEEK is the cheapest.</p>
<p>Wow. really disappointed in this being a staff pick when the title is, at best, completely misunderstood science. as Whatnot pointed out, this is not thermal imaging just near-infrared.</p><p>An interesting side note though is that the filter usually does not block all the near-ir light. without any changes you can point a remote (tv or otherwise) at the camera and see the ir light pulses when you press buttons.</p>
<p>I've found that in a really dark room, I can see the IR from some remote controls with just my eyes. It doesn't look like the huge purple or red dot that you see on a camera screen, but just a really faint red glow like you might see on the coals of a campfire</p>
Or maybe the remote allso emits little visiable light
Nice I'l try it
<p>Asked staff why some of my Instructables were picked while some of the more popular ones wasn't. Answer &quot;It mostly boils down to nice front image&quot;.</p>
I really hope you are not right dintid though this staff pick does seem to point toward decisions being made with no scientific consideration. Dissapointing...
<p>i can only relay what they told me :)</p><p>Quote from reply: &quot;Usually, when projects have pretty detailed information, the reason they aren't featured tends to lean towards photos/main Photo.&quot;<br><br>Reading it Again I can see it doesn't strictly say good Photos get stuff featured, but might prevent something from getting featured.. I rather read it the other way as well, meaning a good Photo would help get the article featured.</p>
<p>Robboberty - Agreed!</p>
<p>Congratulations but as Robboberty says this is not what the title says. Additionally the most interesting picture with the Harmony device is biased as it is not the standard plastic case you find in electronics. It is transparent to the IR and near-IR light. A typical electronic device with ABS plastic will keep its insides invisible until you open it with a screwdriver.</p>
<p>You know whats really annoying, people who whinge on and on about how the tutorial isn't quite correct and then nit pick every little thing they can trying to sound superior and intelligent but instead sounding ungrateful and full of themselves. </p><p>People were even whinging about the caps in the title, Get A Life.</p><p>Thanks for trying guy this tutorial gave me some good ideas. </p>
<p>Yes you can remove the IR filter, as about 800 instructables will tell you, but NO that will not make it a thermal camera like the ones from Seek or FLIR.</p><p>The removal of the filter just exposes near IR which is not the IR you get from heat emanation like the thermal cameras use, it's a completely different frequency range, and in fact those need lenses made from a special material since normal lenses would block the IR from that frequency range.</p><p>However it's still a neat thing to see near-IR and it makes some interesting photos, it's just ludricous to compare the trick to themral cameras.</p>
<p>800? Gee, I only count 799&hellip;</p>
<p>800? Gee, I only count 799&hellip;</p>
<p>Hey I Really Hate When People Do This Help ! Anyways good tutorial...</p>
<p>Who knew? Very simple insider information - thanks. Definitely going to do this. </p><p>Writing tip: capitalizing the first letter of each word makes sense for *titles*, but most readers (certainly true for me) find it very distracting for the body text to have every word begin with a cap - it's like running over railroad tracks while reading...</p>
Like the railroad track analogy...lol
<p>Your project's title is wrong, you will not make any standard camera go into thermal imaging view just by removing it's NoIR filter you should read some documentation about the difference between Near IR and Thermal IR</p>
<p>My thoughts are &quot;Does no one have control over editorial content and style. Why are so many words capitalised?&quot;</p>
You can block the visible light by putting a piece of unexposed film in front of the sensor. You can find this at the start or end of a negative film strip.
<p>so... What wavelenghts does the film absorb? And what is it I`ll be seeing?</p>
<p>It will block most of the visible light and<br> let most of the (near) IR light through. Some red light will also pass <br>through. You can improve the visible light blocking by using multiple <br>layers, but this does also make less IR light get through.</p><p>I've <br>read somewhere that you can also use the inside of a floppy disk (the <br>actual disk) as a IR pass filter. I haven't tried this, but it's said to<br> work very good.</p>
<p>Actually that's a piece of exposed and developed film... The exposed and developed film will appear to be black, but is actually transparent to IR. </p>
<p>Yes you're right, it should be exposed, not unexposed. Thanks for correcting me.</p>
Nice ,I will Try that out.
<p>Cool one! Is there a way to see only UV light? Any kind of filter that can block the part that is viewable to the human eye?</p>
<p>UV is a <em>much higher</em> frequency range. Visible light is about <strong>760nm</strong> to <strong>380nm</strong> with IR being about <strong>500nm</strong> to <strong>760nm</strong>. The wave of light has a physical length which matches the microscopic etchings in the CCD chip. As you can imagine, it is much easier to detect a larger wavelength that a smaller one. UV goes from <strong>380nm</strong> all the way down to <strong>1nm</strong>! <a href="https://www.windows2universe.org/physical_science/magnetism/images/uv_spectrum_regions_big_gif_image.html" rel="nofollow">REFERENCE HERE</a></p><p>They installed a filter to block the lower frequency range (IR FILTER) so in theory... if you installed a filter to block out IR through the entire visible light range... you could pick up some of the lower spectra of the UV light. <a href="https://www.windows2universe.org/physical_science/magnetism/images/uv_spectrum_waves_big_gif_image.html" rel="nofollow">REFERENCE HERE</a></p><p>It is possible to get a UV-Passing Filter, this would accomplish this without modification to the camera. If you search <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_14?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=UV+PASS+FILTER&sprefix=UV+PASS+FILTER%2Caps%2C186" rel="nofollow">AMAZON for a UV PASS FILTER</a> you can find them. <br>Note: The clear filters are <strong>UV REJECT</strong> filters which block UV light.</p>
<p>Thanks! I couldn`t exactly find a filter that blocks under 350nm but there are some astronomy filters out there with reasonable prices. By the way is there 3rd comparison of different wave lenghts yours? If so how did you get it?</p>
<p>@askjerry: Typo in your IR info. IR is roughly 800nm to 1mm.</p><p>http://light-measurement.com/images/wavelength-range.jpg</p>
<p>True... but then you get into the FLIR cameras not the CCD. I'm pretty sure the CCD tops out around 750-800 area... could be wrong.</p>

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