[SHAMELESS SELF-PROMOTION: If you like this kind of writing style, feel free to visit my blog, Tristram Shandy in the 21st Century, www.tristramshandy21st.blogspot.com.  If you do NOT like my style, do NOT visit the blog! I want no harm to come to you!  NOTE May 2011 -- I have been a little lazy at that blog: my apologies -- it had something to do with living life rather than writing about it :-) ; but I will be getting back to it.  --wt]
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Life sucks sometimes, and you have many choices, among them drinking, television, and taking long walks at night among decayed buildings. But you know better; me too. How about spending drinking money on wood, television time on building a sailboat in a bedroom, and keeping the long walks amoung decaying buildings as a useful reminder of Mortality and the Clock?

After losing everything in a divorce except some books and some tools, and having to keep my small sailboat two hours drive away, I decided to make life better actively. You can do it too, and probably better, because I know you have more skills than I do. First, two preliminary steps:

Step A -- Create a project that is somewhat unusual. Coffee tables, bookcases, etc., will not work when life sucks. Imagination and promise of adventure are stronger cures for almost anything.

Step B (see second photo of toolbox/bench if I edited this step properly)-- Build a bench-toolbox of dimensions ~12 inches x 12 inches x 4 feet (standard lumber). The door to access tools is on the side so that you do not disturb your ass if you are sitting on the bench or the workpieces if you are working them on the bench. This is your world, this compact box will hold all the tools needed to build almost anything except the Space Shuttle. Any larger tools are merely conveniences, not really needed for your project-without-workshop. (most used tools were electric drill, electric jigsaw, hand plane (jackplane), wood chisel, wood file, Japanese crosscut saw , hammer, tapemeasure, compass-scribe, sandpaper, screwdrivers, and vacuum cleaner....you are working in your living space after all!).

Add a side vise and a hold-down vise -- both are the pure poetry of the third and fourth hands. Humanity has always desired more hands. The Japanese use their feet as hands when woodworking. The Eskimo (Inuit, Nunamiut) use their teeth. I use the hold-down vise and side vise. Write a poem about them; they will be great friends:

Steel hands on soft wood,
incorporating contradictions as they should--
how can the hard-harsh fail to dent
the soft-smooth low-friction meant
for ...

OK, I have no time for good poetry now, but you get the idea. The bench is endlessly useful for people working without proper workshops. I built most of my sailing outrigger canoe (proa) in a spare bedroom of an apartment, and parts of it in my living room, and many pieces of that on this bench, where I could listen to music, eat, and meditate over the project.

If I had a one-bedroom apartment, I could have done the project in there no problem (sleep on floor on futon, roll mattress aside, cover with dust-sheet!). The wheels hardly seen at left bottom of the toolbox/bench let me drag it around after I tilted it up by the handle (they contact the floor only when the box is tilted). Lay a cheap carpet under it to protect your landlord's property.

Get a low stool to sit on while at work. The one pictured here was once used to sit near the bathtub as I bathed my infant children. I suggest that you too have a small, useful stool, filled with beautiful memories and ready to be filled with more. But you *can* sit on it, too.

Paso 1: Build your boat in two pieces

The two pieces (in this case, 7 feet long each) will let you get the boat in and out of the apartment and store it in the corner or in a large closet or corner of a room. The project started briefly in the basement of my first apartment, and I can attest I carried the proto-hulls out and up through twisty apartment stairs. Each piece was very heavy (80 pounds each at end of project) because I designed foolishly, but I am a weak 48 year old English professor, and if I can do it, you can do it.

The hulls will bolt together at their flat "transom/bulkheads" to create a 14 foot skinny outrigger canoe hull. The outrigger float seen to the left was a crazy attempt (ceased at the moment of completion, sort of like mediocre sex) at a somewhat native concept of a neutral buoyancy ama (float) but not a good idea for a solo sailor on a small boat (scaling a design up or down changes the physics of its behavior -- or rather...well, everybody seems to know physics on this site, so you know what I mean).

You see rub-strips on the bottom of the hulls. I adzed off the bow rub strips later because they were way overdone and the planling is very thick anyway, but you do need to protect the edges of plywood from being exposed. I now recommend thin-but-tough rub-strips built up with layers of fiberglass or even gobs of chopped fibgerglas plopped on in epoxy and later faired. Using graphite-epoxy from waterline down is also better than painting, I think (slippery tough coating but still has UV protection from the graphite).

The two hull pieces stand up on their flat ends and look like the wondrous towering architecture of fantasy. Sit 15 feet away, drink the relaxing beverage of your choice, and let the mind go where it will.

I used marine plywood nailed to heavy lumber with bronze ringnails sealed with polysulfide rubber-goo. You can do it better than this (read books on plywood boat building) and thereby make the hulls lighter. A skin-on-frame design may also be good (coated ballistic nylon skin is very tough), or strip build if you have the patience (I didn't). Or buid flatter parts with plywood, and the rounded botton with strip-technique, perhaps best of all, and faster/cheaper than all-strip-building.

Important note -- I had no plans -- the boat went from brain-to-wood with a few scrap-paper sketches in between. You must do this too; the Cure will not work, otherwise.
The best piece I ever read here. <br>I liked your style, and the side comments on life, boats, and everything. Or, perhaps I felt that I have met a man of my age, and I knew what you are talking about, a rock in the sea, treating wounds with wisdom and humor, and riding above them and the waves of troubles. <br>-.
Nice Job! The comment about guys with powerboats and Humvee's made me laugh. <br><br><br>
Wow. this is like straight out of Gilligans Island. The Professor would be so proud!!!! I actually really mean that as a compliment so i hope your not insulted. <br>i think you could sleep easy knowing that should you ever find yourself on a deserted island that you could get yourself back to civilization. <br> <br>NICE JOB!!!!!!! <br>
I felt the same way as you when I built my pumpkinseed kyak ! So I put it on the Instructable site. It is so light and easy to transport too. The original design was meant to fold flat, but I opted for rigid internal ribs. I screwed them in place. Saves time and is much safer on the lake. I had it collapse and sink one time! So I fixed that problem. I also added insulating foam, sprayed into the bow and stern section from 1 can of spray foam. I quick and inexpensive way to avoid the Titanic syndrome. Love your story for each step. I can relate, I have had a similar experience. But now found the right woman who is an Angel and has saved me from many vices that could have put me in a very small place for a very long time! Canoeing, woodworking, Leathercrafting, knifemaking, Organic Gardening, a 19 year old daughter (college sophomore) and running this Ranch (home) and much more, keep me active, healthy and happy. Keep up the good work. I'm rooting for you! Seek Peace. Triumphman.
Your awesome. Way to inspire a dude to do scrap-boat on their day off!
I want to thank you for both our article and your &quot;Bloody First Day&quot; writing. I got Gary Dierking's book, and your writing has convinced me to go #1 with his simplest design, use a tacking rig at first, go out on a not too windy day, and take a competent friend with me till I learn the boat. The tendency is to want the hottest boat first. Experience and and my limited wisdom tell me to go with what will be the most likely to give me fun and let me learn how to sail a new kind of boat!<br> You are an entertaining author. Obviously you chose the right profession. I would imagine you inspire and entertain your students.<br>
An excellent read - I find your path to dealing with life-lessons far more valuable than how to build a two-piece triangular boat. It's been a few years, I hope the Cure has continued!
Thanks. The Cure is continually operational!
Glad u found fun in the sailboat. Iv been trying to find a way to learn to sail for a bit. We apparently look at the same ocean as im a ct-er too.
I hope I see you out there sometime. I usually push off from New Haven's Lighthouse Point city ramp.
ya im a bit closer to RI. Im considering giving my kayak sails at the moment
Is this boat seaworthy? Can i take it out on the coast of Southern California and fish with it? More importantly, anyone think i could sail to Catalina Island and back?
Complex answer required. A sailor's skill and luck provides a lot of seaworthiness. That being said, I would say no. This boat can be taken out a few miles off the coast, sure. If you installed good watertight chambers, then it can survive a knockdown. If you are in good physical shape and have some skills, you can right this boat from a 180 degree capsize with some effort. But it will never be seaworthy like a commercial monohull sailboat, with self-draining cockpit and a ballasted keel or centercoard making the boat self-righting. My newer outrigger is a better boat, but In salt water I wear a serious lifevest packing a strobe light, a flare gun, and a Spot locator beacon, and the boat carries more flares and a VHF with GPS-DSC distress call. My friend sitting with me here me now has sailed out to Catalina and tells me there can be serious chop out there. I would want a much longer sailing canoe for that, at least 18-20 feet.
Wade - I hope in the ensuing time since you posted this that you have still been experiencing the wonders of sailing! Fantastic instructable - puts me in mind of 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' - not so much a 'how-to' but rather a 'why-to'. Thanks.<br /> <br /> Suggestion re. trailer - make a small, road-&nbsp;wheeled cradle to fit the centre section. Rather than taking the halves apart, hinge them at the gunwale level between the two centre bulkheads. When you fold it in half, with the cradle attached to the downward hull, you have a long, thin, box-trailer.<br /> <br /> Thanks again for your humour and insight. Keep well :-)
I built a second outrigger that improved on the first. See my most recent instructable about that, and some Youtube footage of it sailing. Now that I own a small house with garage, I am able to keep this boat on a good trailer, but my quest to build a 24 foot sailing outrigger will again bring me back to a sectional boat, Gary Dierking's Wa'Apa canoe, and the last 8 feet of it will probably be hinged so that I can fit it in my garage. Thanks for your kind words!
&nbsp;I read the first day with crab claw. Excellent!...perhaps I should be working instead of dreaming about finishing the sail rig for my canoe...Oh well, it's almost summer and my students are slacking anyway...<br /> <br /> What made you decide to use a crab claw? Was it merely the allure of the pacific proa? Is shunting awkward? I'm considering using a lateen or leg of mutton, but have considered the crab claw.<br />
The crabclaw sail and more importantly the &quot;crane rig&quot; of a shunting crabclaw relfected my desire to experience a different way of sailing that some Polynesians invented -- a very nonwestern mode of changing a sailboat direction. The mode is suited to the materials and sailing mission (if you will) of the Pacific outrigger or &quot;proa.&quot; There is a good Wikipedia essay on the proa.&nbsp; <br /> <br /> This rig does have some advantages, though for making frequent tacks especially in a narrow body of water, the extra time taken for a shunt (contra a tack) is not useful.&nbsp; In larger rigs, shutning a crabclaw is best done witgh at least two experienced crew. The large heavy rigs of traditional Micronesian proas for instance really require three experienced crew to make the practise safe in rougher conditions, so you see its problem for the solo sailor.&nbsp; My next outrigger went back to the western style rig you see in my mewest instructable.
&nbsp;Thanks for the response. Here in the western part of Texas, our lakes are fairly narrow. They are rivers or creeks dammed up in canyons. I was considering a shunting rig for my canoe, but I couldn't get past the idea of having to shunt very frequently due to the sizes and shapes of the local lakes.&nbsp;<br /> <br />
sailors aren't the only ones to find peace in a boat, I row and paddle and find both of them as rewarding even if they require more effort. Of course most of my paddling is done withing 30' feet of the beach on a surf kayak, so it isn't relaxing as much as exhilirating mixed with moments of terror.
Yes, some of the best adventures can be had not much further than 30 feet to a mile from the coastline.&nbsp; Look at Matt Layden's tiny live-aboard boats for example (the Enigma, Paradox, Sand Flea, and his newest Elusion -- go to <a href="http://www.duckworksmagazine.com" rel="nofollow">www.duckworksmagazine.com</a>) or the Everglades Challenge race (<a href="http://www.watertribe.com" rel="nofollow">www.watertribe.com</a>) .&nbsp; Or Tim Anderson's sailing canoe adventures (<a href="http://www.robot.mit.edu" rel="nofollow">www.robot.mit.edu</a>).&nbsp;&nbsp; All possible on small-ish budgets!&nbsp;
&quot;Create a project that is somewhat unusual. Coffee tables, bookcases, etc., will not work when life sucks&quot; &nbsp;<br /> <br /> Hilarious!&nbsp; There's nothing like a large, &quot;inappropriate&quot; indoor project for hitting the big red Reset button on a ruined domestic space.&nbsp; And the boat looks awesome. &nbsp;&nbsp; <br />
It's my personal philosophy, but I think it might be generally applicable!
Wade, I enjoyed your instructable very much.&nbsp; You're a gifted writer, I hope you finish that novel as I'd love to read it....this wonderful world is waiting!
Thanks. I'll be working on the writing and a new boat this summer.
Wow...you have a beautiful writing style and the project itself is absolutely incredible. I'm VERY tempted to attempt this now...after my next project haha<br />
I'm glad you liked it.&nbsp; Break-apart boats can be made much better than this first attempt at mine, though the cheapest and most reliable connection is indeed the simple bolts.&nbsp; Advice. Build the hull in one piece first, install the transom/bulkheads, then saw the hull in half . Or buy Gary Dierking's book &quot;Building Outrigger Sailing Canoes&quot; or plans for the Wa'Apa sailing canoe (in three 8 foot section, or take out the middle section for a 16 footer). That is your best bet.
&nbsp;I've never heard an outrigger called an &quot;ama&quot;.
'Ama' is the standard term for the &quot;outrigger float&quot; part, among outrigger groupies and technogeeks. The main hull is often called a &quot;vaka.&quot;&nbsp;&nbsp; The cross-beams are &quot;aka/akas.&quot;&nbsp; All from some group-processed conception of some Polynesian words.&nbsp;
I would still like to know how Jethro on NCIS gets his boats out of the basement!&nbsp; If anyone knows please post it.&nbsp; BTW...Great Article!<br />
It's not as difficult as you might think to get a boat out of a basement.<br /> <br /> 1. Determine how&nbsp; large the opening needs to be to get the boat out.<br /> <br /> 2. Assess the basement and its configuration in relation to the street side of the house.<br /> <br /> 3. If the wall closest to the street will allow an opening large enough then you would first shore up the floor and wall from the inside.<br /> <br /> 4. The next and most important part of the process is to excavate a ramp down to the basement wall that was shored up.<br /> <br /> 5. Last you would cut an opening in the basement wall and pull the boat out and up the ramp.<br /> <br /> Pretty simple.<br />
<p>Jetho gets his boats out in little pieces then burns the pieces in his backyard!</p>
he has built the boat a few times. he does not get the boat out he is just building it as a hobby.
The flat bottom&nbsp; makes it look like a narrow version of a bateau.&nbsp; Cool design.<br />
I have read the intro and am inspired!!&nbsp; Thanks for doing&nbsp;such a big positive great instructable in midst of other stuff!
That is the greatest escape vehicle I've yet seen! Excellent job and thanks so much for sharing.
Your article was so right on, especially with the philosophical musings that tend to accompany such unique endeavors, particularly when undertaken alone. I spent many years creating various "homebuilt" projects in apartment kitchens and living rooms, furtively vacuuming up sawdust before nosy landlords became aware of my activities. For some reason, building a boat - any boat - endows one with an aura of adventurous rebellion, a devil-may-care rebuttal to the mundane, and a sense of smug satisfaction not to be had from building shelves or garden planters. I am currently blessed to have a garage large enough to build a 10' lapstrake wherry, and find my refuge in that project. Thanks so much for your article.
I hope you publish and instructible about it. Yes, nothing like boats, airplanes, and rockets for inspirational projects!
I laughed so hard I became oxygen deprived. My stomach convulsed so much I must have completed the equivalent of 300 situps in as many seconds, and herniated my diaphram in the process. In short, this 'journal nautical' was inexhaustively - unrelentingly - hysterical. You deserve a storybook award for this.
Thanks. I have a sabbatical this fall to get work done on some writing projects, one of them a humorous self-deprecatory nautical autobiography to be titled _In Search of Tim Severin_, perhaps you'd like it if I finish it ;-) 30 pages written so far. You might also enjoy My Bloody First Day with a Crabclaw, posted online on Proafile Magazine. In Search of Tim Severin will be a little like that. -- Wade
Comment to myself: this is the best use for an SUV that I can think of. I wouldn't ordinary own such a fuel-inefficient vehicle but my sister gave me this her old truck when I was down and out (and my fuel efficient Saturn was burning lots of oil); thanks Sis! However, I put its 18 mile per gallon to good use during sailing season, and had fun in some major blizzards besides. The proa as built was/is rather too heavy and clumsy for carrying on a car roofrack, though I think the hull parts would squeeze into a compact stationwagon, and the rig and ama/akas could easily go on the roof. But I suggest you build a lighter version that *would* go on a car rooftop. If you can store/build the canoe in some other place besides your bedroom, build the hull in one piece. Anything up to 18 feet long is roof-top-able, like any standard canoe or kayak. Build in 1/4 inch plywood with reasonable scantlings, strip-building, or skin-on-frame, the main hull ought to come in from 70 to 125 pounds in the 14-to-18 foot lengths. Skin-on-frame is a desirable method to explore for this craft!<br/>
Something visceral about boats. I think they speak of escape and ecstasy, which are in somewhat short supply when you're sitting in the wreckage of a relationship. And I even managed a nice little maritime figure-o-speech. Arr. Aye. Splice the Mainbrace. You'll recognise this design idea as I did yours. I think too few people try building boats because they're supposed to be perfect! I've built three so far, and none of them are. But it was fun.
Ah, so you have also been bitten with the bolt-the-halves-together boat! Good! I see you also had some workspace challenges. The memory of problems overcome will add sweetness to memories of boats well-used, I guarantee it. I agree with you about perfection: I learned to be happy with imperfection. If I had insisted in yacht-quality construction, I'd never have gotten to the water. And as the boat ages (as we do) its signs of wear and age will be the marks of honor.
How did you determin hte size of the outriggers?,the distance from the main hull ,the height of the mast and sail size? I have a paper tiger cat 14' long the sail but no mast or centre boards so i thought id half it make a small double out rigger with oneof the hulls but dont know how to determine the propotions.Any advice?
Traditional canoes have some traditional proportions in the different "ethnic areas" of canoe design. I had in mind the Micronesians proas when I built this canoe, I used their rough proportions, here the 50-percent rule. The beam of the boat is about 50 percent of its length, and the length of the ama is about 50 percent of the length of the main hull (vaka). These proportions work for a true proa. If you are designing a non-shunting canoe (a tacking canoe), you might want a longer ama, or an ama whose volume is more forward to resist the dreaded diagonal capsize/pitchpole. Go look at some catamarans pitchpoling on Youtube, and then you will see what I mean. Other proportions do exist. In the Bismark Islands, the proa seem to use the 25 pecernt rule for beam (total beam is 25 percent of canoe length), and their ama are very long, about as long as their main canoe hulls. I have also seen some one-third rules. These proportions are very interesting and beg speculation in nautical and engineering fields (though do not rule out the local variables such as available materials and cultural functions separated from pure engineering/physics). I do not think you need be much concerned. A 50 percent beam works well, and a minimum 50 percent ama works well. The longer the ama, the more it will resist capsize, but the more skin friction will have. This message box is too small to discuss all the implications. If you are making a double outrigger, the proportions are different. more like a trimaran. A typical beam of a trimaran is greater than on a single outrigger (a 14 foot proa might have a 7 foot beam, but a 14 foot tri might have a 10 or 12 foot beam. Much also depends on how fat (buoyant) your amas are, and thus how your sailing behavior is expected to be. Skinny amas will mean you will be a more active sailor using weight to control boat attitude/avoid capsize. Fatter amas will take care of your better if you make a mistake, but offer the penalty of weight and drag. There is no winning this: the "tradeoff" is the god to which we sacrifice. Read a great book, Outrigger Canoes of Bali and Madura, Indonesia, by Horridge, and Wangka, by Doran, to study the double outriggers. Gary Dierking's book, Building Outrigger Sailing Canoes, will show you greatr designs for the amateur builder. Carry on!
Thank you very much this gives me a really good starting place i appreciate your reply and it s clarity Your instructable was great and your outrigger inspiring.Im off to the hardware store to buy some parts to start my outrigger today.
What do you think if I just plastered a butt crap load of PVC water proof glue outside my boat instead of fiberglass resin? Home depot doesn't carry the resin.
PVC waterproof glue won't work, but other sealants probably would just fine. I saw a neat little fishing boat that used driveway sealant (the tar looking stuff) and it worked out really well. Truck bed liner might also work. Every home deport I've ever been to has carried fiberglass resin and hardener, and if for some reason yours does not, the local auto parts store definitely will.
I don't know anything about PVC glue, or what you are gluing with it (fiberglas cloth?). Boats existed before resin and glass, and they do not necessarily need them. They don't need them, period, but they do make for a strong boat. If you are using fir plywood, rotary cut, the plywood will check over time, and look like crap eventually. That is why standard plywood on a boat needs to be glassed on the outside (glassing on the inside aids burst-through strength, though, so inside glassing is good for the hull under the waterline). Other good quality marine plywoods will not check, and they can get by with a good paint job (primer and top coat; oil-based exterior house paint will work well instead of marine paint if you need to save money). A good source of boat building inmformation, on the web or in a book, will describe the qualities of plywood for boat use, and then you can shop around. If you want to go to AC exterior, epoxy and glass the outside. That extra expense might be the same as buying just a sheet of Okuome marine plywood, etc. Don't mess around with other fixes such as PVC glue unless you get great advice from a professional boat builder.
i like this boat but im wondering what the price was to build it, and how long would it take to build.
This boat was pretty simple and would be very cheap to build. I did not keep close tabs, but here is a close estimate: $80 for two sheets of marine plywood (I should have done it in cheap AC exterior, though, for about halfd the cost or less). Say another $25 for AC plywood for other things such as decks and stuff. Say another $100 for all the solid wood in the boat (Home depot pine and red oak, nothing &quot;marine quality&quot;). <br/><br/>The epoxy and some glass cloth which I eventually used for modifications was most expensive (say $150 for a gallon of resin and a half-gallon of hardener, System 3), although the basic hull was put together with bronze ringnails with a polysulfide marine sealant between the nailed wood pieces ($15). <br/><br/>Add $25 for various stainless steel things, spiced to taste. Add %20 for blue tarp for the sail, and another $25 for line (more if you want good dacron nonstretch line). $25 for latex exterior paint (maybe a little more). <br/><br/>I had basic tools (hand electric drill, various hand-planes, Japanese pull-saw/cross-cut, wood chisels, etc.) but bought a few tools that were really not too necessary (a little battery powered circular saw that made fine, precise, splinter-free cuts in the plywood, but patient work with a good hand saw would be fine; a hand-held belt-sander to grind square and flat edges in places). I also owned already a small drill press and a bench-belt-sander, which tend to be generally useful, and a hand-held jig-saw, which is *incredibly* useful and worth buying in high quality and can replace a lot of other tools if you change the saw blades for the appropriate type of cut (as is the electric hand drill, used for so many things). I would add now a random orbital electric sander, which works great. <br/><br/>And yet the boat could be built as well with one cross-cut saw, one wood chisel, one drill (any kind that will make a hole!), hammer, screwdriver, wood file, meauring tape, sandpaper, and a bunch of C-clamps). For &quot;work bench&quot; I had only plastic saw-horses and the tool-box/bench shown in this and another Instructable. I added a large heavy canvas tarp to protect the hardwood floors of the apartment.<br/><br/>So, call it $500 for the finished boat or a bit more, NOT including tools. Some savings are possible if you get some wood from scrap piles. I once found several nice pieces of wood such as 1x3s at the town dump, (I cut out bad parts or nail-scarred areas and had useful lengths still). <br/><br/>Other savings are possible -- some hardware can be built, but I sprung for some decent cleats, some marine cam-cleats, some stainless steel thimbles and bolts and screws here and there. If this money were spread out over a few months, it would not seem to hurt so bad. If you dump your cell phone, the boat is paid for in a few months ;-) <br/><br/>How long to build? I built in starts and stops, so I can't say as an absolute hour-count. Sometimes weeks would go by with nothing done. Sometimes I felt desperation or interest and put in 15 hours per week. I had no plans, so much of my time was guess work, staring, ruminating, and sometimes sawing off a stupid idea and re-building (with the proper attitude, that is not necessarily a bad experience -- the design and construction and revision is part of life, within reason, as long as you have the goal to get on the water as soon as possible). <br/><br/>So... This boat in its first iteration took me 2 years, but in that time I was going through a vicious divorce, having a life threatening illness, moving twice, and generally being horse-whipped by Life. I'm not seeking sympathy, just tellng it like it was. Would better times make faster build time? Who can say?<br/><br/>My new outrigger canoe is done and on the water -- a 16 foot canoe with ketch rig, built better and now designed to be towed on a trailer. I glassed the whole thing, so its epoxy and glass bill was way higher, and this time I bought two commercial sails, adding much to expense. Desite now having a garage and basement to work in, this new boat also took me about two years or a tad longer, with the same schedule -- sometimes weeks with doing nothing, sometimes 20 hour weeks as I felt the desperation or interest (I do other things with my spare time though -- read, write, hike, kayak, etc.). A dedicated amateur builder might knock one of these out in a few furious months of weekends. Most *good* amateur small-boat projects (starting with commericial plans) are said to take 100 to 200 hours, usually. If you find a boat with plans, work might go faster. Go for it! <br/><br/>

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Jul 21, 2006

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Bio: If you read blogs, come vist mine: www.tristramshandy21st. blogspot.com where right now I am posting chapters of my humorous and philosophical nonfiction, "In ... Más »

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