Introduction: Make Your Own Bluetooth Speaker

Picture of Make Your Own Bluetooth Speaker

Hi,

In this Instructable, I will go through the steps I took to make my own bluetooth speaker.

I personally really like the design of AudioEngine B2, so I made my speakers to resemble the B2 as best as I can, including the magnetic grill.

The tools that I used were:

  • a table saw
  • a router
  • a drill press
  • cordless drills
  • clamps
  • sandpaper
  • paint brush
  • soldering iron
  • glue gun

Materials I used were:

  • 2 full range drivers
  • 2 tweeters
  • 8 neodymium magnets
  • bluetooth amplifier
  • 3/4" thick pine panels
  • wood glue
  • rubber feet
  • audio cables
  • solder
  • polyester cushion filling
  • wood stain
  • polyurethane
  • baby oil (which is basically mineral oil with perfume)

Let's get to it!

Step 1: Design Your Speaker

Picture of Design Your Speaker

First, I drew out the basic design of the speakers based on the dimensions I could find on the web.

Then I scaled my drawing by a factor of 1.1 to match my full range driver diameter with that of the AudioEngine B2 in order to maintain the overall proportions of the design. (My driver's diameter was 3 inches, whereas the B2's diameter was 2.75 inches)

Then, I had to make a design choice: to go with a sealed enclosure or a ported enclosure.

The B2 has 2 vertical slotted ports for its ported enclosure design, but I decided to go with a sealed enclosure.

However, I found the front ports of the B2 was what gave it such an appealing, unique look, so I decided to create fake ports. (More on this "fake ports" later.)

Step 2: Measure and Make Your Cuts

Picture of Measure and Make Your Cuts

This Instructable isn't so much about how to use certain types of tools, so I will just describe the kinds of cuts I made to come to the final product.

In order to join all the walls and the front of the speaker enclosure to fit nicely, I cut the panels with a table saw at 45 degrees to create miter joints for the enclosure, as opposed to square ended joints. I chose miter joints over square joints to hide the end grains of the panels and try to create a more "uniform" look.

The back side was the only side I did not make angled cuts, since I wanted to create rabbet cuts on the router for me to 'screw' on the back plate instead of gluing it on.

Step 3: Make the False Ports

Picture of Make the False Ports

Since my speaker wasn't really going to have ports, I created grooves using a plunge cutter bit on my router to create an illusion that the ports are there.

First, I carefully outlined where the ports were going to be placed, then I clamped scrap (but straight!) pieces of wood on to my router table to create a jig for the plunge cuts.

After carefully adjusting the height of the plunge cutter bit to be slightly less than the thickness of the panel to ensure the bit does not penetrate all the way through, I made the two plunge cuts.

Step 4: Create Holes for the Drivers and the Magnetic Grill

Picture of Create Holes for the Drivers and the Magnetic Grill

As described in my "Bluetooth Soundbar" Instructable, I don't have a hole saw big enough to make a hole the size of my driver. So what I did is I started with a small hole, then enlarged it with a rabbet bit on my router.

Once I got the hole to be the desired size, I realized I want the drivers to appear to be sitting closer to the front surface of the speaker enclosure, so I made a rabbet cut around the hole at the back side so that the drivers could sit inside. (See pictures 4 to 6)

I purchased 8 of 1cm diameter magnets so that I can have magnetic grills just like the AudioEngine B2. I drilled holes to hide 4 magnets behind the front plate of the speaker enclosure. (See picture 6)

I had to make extra cuts on opposite ends of the holes to ensure the flaps for the screws on the drivers could sit inside as well. (See pictures 7 to 8)

Step 5: Glue, Cut and Sand

Picture of Glue, Cut and Sand

After the pieces were tested for a perfect fit, I glued all the panels together, and had them clamped together with masking tape until the glue was left to dry for 24 hours.

Once the glue was completely dried, I took off the tape, made router cuts for the 4 outside corners of the speaker enclosure using a round-over bit, and sanded the rest of the corners by hand with a fine grit sandpaper.

Step 6: Create the Back Plate

Picture of Create the Back Plate

I cut out a rectangular piece of wood to be my back plate for the speaker.

I then cut out a rectangular hole for the Bluetooth amplifier to sit inside with a jigsaw.

Step 7: Stain and Seal the Enclosure

Picture of Stain and Seal the Enclosure

This step is always the most pleasing and enjoyable step for me.

I stained the entire exterior of the enclosure to a dark brown colour, as well as the exterior side of the back plate.

Once the stain was left to dry for 24 hours, I sealed it 3 times with matte finish polyurethane. After the 3 layers of polyurethane was dried, I wet sanded it with a 2000 grit sandpaper to get rid of any surface imperfections due to dust particles landing on the wet sealant during the drying process.

Step 8: Add the Legs and Give It Shine

Picture of Add the Legs and Give It Shine

This step is pretty straight forward.

I center-punched the locations for the 4 legs to sit, then I drilled them about 1/4" deep with a forstner bit, then I screwed on the 4 legs.

I applied some baby oil and rubbed it into all the exterior surfaces. I wiped off any excess oil with a dry paper towel.

Step 9: Add the Drivers and the Electronics

Picture of Add the Drivers and the Electronics

The drivers I purchased (both the full range and the tweeters) had 4 ohm impedance.

Since the impedance value I was aiming for was 8 ohms, I connected the full range drivers in series, and the tweeters also in series. The amplifier conveniently had 2 separate ports, 1 for the main and 1 for the high, so I plugged in the full range in the low and the tweeters in the high.

I fastened all the speakers with a glue gun, and filled the enclosure with some polyester filling.

I then screwed on the back plate, with the Bluetooth amplifier attached.

I could have ended here for the speakers, but I really liked the magnetic grills, so I went further and created the grills too.

Step 10: Create the Grill

Picture of Create the Grill

First, I cut out a plywood the size of the front face of the speaker enclosure. (See pictures 1 to 2)

Second, I placed the remaining 4 magnets where I had embedded the other magnets back in Step 4. (See picture 3)

Third, I transferred the magnet locations on to the plywood I had cut and drilled holes to fit the magnets inside. (See pictures 4 to 6)

Fourth, I drew out the openings for the drivers and the tweeters for the grill. (See picture 7)

Fifth, I cut out the holes with a jigsaw. (See pictures 8 to 10)

Sixth, I cut a piece of fabric I wanted to use, applied spray glue on the plywood and stuck it on to the fabric. (See pictures 11 to 13)

Seventh, I carefully stretched the fabric over in all directions and wrapped it around the whole grill. (See pictures 14 to 15)

Eighth, I trimmed any excess fabric and I was done! (See pictures 16 to 19)

For the grill, I wasn't worried too much about how messy the other side was, as this is going to get covered when the grill is on anyways. But in the future I might add something to make it look a bit more finished.

Step 11: Blast Some Music

Picture of Blast Some Music

Put on the grill, or don't depending on the preference, and blast some music!

The speaker can get really loud, and I have yet to turn up the volume knob all the way because it's too loud as is.

The beauty of the Bluetooth amplifier board I got is that it comes with a remote, so I can digitally change the volume, the high and the lows, and it's even got a power button, so you can leave the rocker switch at the back at the "on" position all the time and use the remote to turn the speaker on or off.

Well, this is all I got for this project. I hope you liked it!

Comments

AnthonyV64 (author)2017-12-07

This is a great project. Perhaps it might be good to find 8ohm speakers to take advantage of the amplifier's stereo capability. The stereo desperation would be poor with the speakers being in such proximity to each other. I think I might angle the speakers 15° within the enclosure that would increase the separation. Low frequencies are less susceptible to these separation effect than high frequencies so perhaps only the tweeters need to be angled...also, might it be a good idea to place a piece of thick wood to separate the left and right enclosure? This would prevent one speaker driving the other in stereo similar to a passive bass speaker used extensively in Bowers & Wilkins DM series floor speakers. Perhaps for your next incarnation? However, it looks great, expensive and shop built. Well done.

diy_bloke (author)2017-11-04

Great woodwork

nigelmlauzi (author)2017-10-05

wow its amazing

Andrew Park (author)nigelmlauzi2017-10-15

thanks! :)

lneves (author)2017-10-05

Could you post some schematics of the circuits that you used? And links for the components that you acquired?

Andrew Park (author)lneves2017-10-11

Here's the basic wiring diagram. You can add a capacitor for your tweeter line to ensure that the tweeters are safe from the low frequency signals, but I didn't add them for mine.

Here are the parts I used:

Boss BRS35 3.5" drivers - Link

Aiyima 1" tweeters - Link

10mm magnets - Link

Bluetooth Amplifier Board - Link

lneves (author)Andrew Park2017-10-11

Thank you, man, It was helpfull!

valveman (author)2017-10-05

Super nice project.

Where did you get the bluetooth amplifier?

Andrew Park (author)valveman2017-10-11

I got it from AliExpress. Took some time to arrive, but I didn't mind the wait.

Here's the link for the amp. Link

valveman (author)Andrew Park2017-10-11

Thank you for the link.

parts_express (author)2017-10-10

Love the cabinet! Has a Kirby feel

Thank you! :)

WarCatss (author)2017-10-07

Why did you connected the speakers in series (the second one doesn't have the same signal same the first in this case, no ?) ?

Andrew Park (author)WarCatss2017-10-11

I mentioned in the Instructables, but basically my drivers were 4ohms each (since they were built for automobiles) but I wanted 8ohms, so I connected them in series.

Hope this helps :)

mikefiatx19 (author)2017-10-05

Hi,

Great job. I have 2 questions.

1 is the sound quality any good?

2 is it possible to build 2 and link them via bluetooth to play music from the same source?

Thanks

Mike

Andrew Park (author)mikefiatx192017-10-11

This was a low budget project, but considering I've spent less than $50 CAD for this project, I think it sounds decent and got more than enough volume.

As for your second question, I am not sure, I haven't tried but that would depend on the type of bluetooth amplifier you get.

brianfit (author)2017-10-05

Beautiful. I keep wanting to build a project like this, but I know nothing about how to calculate the size of the box (and the volume of space inside) to match the speakers -- something I know can be essential to the audio quality. Do you have any tips for those of us working with scavenged speakers of different sizes?

tutdude98 (author)brianfit2017-10-06

If you are building sealed enclosure you can just use volume recommended for specific driver (usually comes in datasheet or manual of driver or use chart under).
Ported enclosures are bit harder to do, you need to know parameters of speaker and can be a bit tricky with lower end speakers or scavanged speakers.
When working with multiple drivers (scavanged, 2way, 3way etc.) use proper crossover and if they are different size it would be good to seal them (each driver has own box or sealed part of the box), 2way and 3way require a bit more designing if they are component but i wont bother you with that.
Woofer Size --- Enclosure Volume

4" ======== .25 - .39 cubic feet
6" ======== .35 - .54 cubic feet
8" ======== .54 - .96 cubic feet
10" ======= .96 - 1.8 cubic feet
12" ======= 1.8 - 3.5 cubic feet
15" ======= 3.5 - 8 cubic feet

tutdude98 (author)tutdude982017-10-06

also mid range or full range drivers require less space, so use smaller volume (.25 for 4" for example)

Andrew Park (author)brianfit2017-10-05

Thanks for your interest! I just started learning about speaker enclosure volumes as well in the past year. There are so many variables to consider!

If you are using scavenged speakers, it's helpful to get the measurements of the old enclosure and use that for your design.

If you know absolutely nothing about your drivers (maybe they are scavenged speakers without the original enclosure, or you bought drivers that have little to no information about the parameters you need in order to calculate your enclosure volume), what I like to do is collect as many specs as I can for other drivers that are the same size as yours, and average out the recommended volume and design my enclosure with that value.

Probably isn't the correct way or the most reliable way of doing it, but so far I have been lucky and haven't ran into any issues with incorrect enclosure sizing.

Hope this helps!

MichaelP13 (author)2017-10-05

Link to the Amp/Bluetooth module

https://www.banggood.com/80W-Subwoofer-Hi-Fi-Amplifier-Board-High-Power-Bluetooth-Car-TF-USB-12V24V220V-p-1104485.html

Surajit Majumdar (author)2017-10-04

Awesome Speaker :)

Thank you! :)

Swansong (author)2017-10-03

It came out great! I love the sleek case design with the dark stain :)

Andrew Park (author)Swansong2017-10-05

:) Thank you! I'm really happy about how it turned out!

kksjunior (author)2017-10-04

It looks perfect! Voted!

Andrew Park (author)kksjunior2017-10-05

Thank you so much! :)

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