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Step 5Etching the names
I am not an artistic guy. I was worried that this part would be a disaster but it actually wasn't too bad.
The problem with this step is obviously you can't do it until you know exactly who is coming unless you feel like doing the entire invite list. Once you start getting RSVPs, start cracking on your etching.
To begin, print out the text you want on your cards FLIPPED BACKWARDS. You can use Open Office Draw (which I used) or another Draw program to make a template for each card that is 3 1/4" x 2". From there you enter the text and then use the flip function to make a mirror of the text horizontally. You end up with backwards text that can then be placed under the acrylic. I used the Open Office font "Segoe Script" in a size 22 font. For particularly long names I found it was best to just bump the font size down a bit, anything size18 and above will still be plenty big.
Since you probably won't have your table arrangements done until all the RSVPs come back, just put "Table" at the bottom without a number, the number can be added later.
Take your time and PRACTICE before you start. I'd recommend setting the etcher speed at 3-4 but your own personal preference may vary.
For the table number, just print out one template for each number, (make sure it's flipped) and go back and etch the numbers in once you have all your table arrangements figured out.
(Note: The test one I did in the picture is a bit sloppy because I rushed through it. Without rushing though you can still do a name in just a couple minutes)
The problem with this step is obviously you can't do it until you know exactly who is coming unless you feel like doing the entire invite list. Once you start getting RSVPs, start cracking on your etching.
To begin, print out the text you want on your cards FLIPPED BACKWARDS. You can use Open Office Draw (which I used) or another Draw program to make a template for each card that is 3 1/4" x 2". From there you enter the text and then use the flip function to make a mirror of the text horizontally. You end up with backwards text that can then be placed under the acrylic. I used the Open Office font "Segoe Script" in a size 22 font. For particularly long names I found it was best to just bump the font size down a bit, anything size18 and above will still be plenty big.
Since you probably won't have your table arrangements done until all the RSVPs come back, just put "Table" at the bottom without a number, the number can be added later.
Take your time and PRACTICE before you start. I'd recommend setting the etcher speed at 3-4 but your own personal preference may vary.
For the table number, just print out one template for each number, (make sure it's flipped) and go back and etch the numbers in once you have all your table arrangements figured out.
(Note: The test one I did in the picture is a bit sloppy because I rushed through it. Without rushing though you can still do a name in just a couple minutes)
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Dec 16, 2010. 7:10 PMLazersEdgeEngraving
says:
these are definitely a great way to put them together. I have made some similar before. however to save time on this step ... my husband & I have a laser engraving business ... where we can laser engrave all your cards for you, and laser cut them to the size and shape you prefer. it's always an option and may even cost the same amount that you may pay for just the acrylic cut alone. just wanted to let you know that there are more options out there, that may make it easier for the newlyweds and still be able to do DIY projects all in one.
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Oct 13, 2011. 8:00 AMcreosino
says:
Don't bother with LazersEdgeEngraving, poor communication if they ever get back to you
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Sep 5, 2010. 9:05 AManfegori91
says:
Maybe laser-etching is a good and better looking option.
Reply
Sep 13, 2010. 4:30 PMDr. dB
says:
That could look AWSOME! ...and there have been several good 'ibles on how to mash a couple of old printers and a replacement blue-ray laser module into just such a creature... Dealing with transparent plastic, though, you might have to play around with reflective/absorptive background materials, maybe even etching FORWARD letters onto the BACK of the acrylic by firing THROUGH the (unscorched) front surface and using the re-radiated IR from a black backing sheet/plate...?? Perhaps even better would be to "print" (dry-transfer?) the flipped lettering directly onto the acrylic, then laser it from the front - black ink should take a certain depth of acrylic with it as it vaporizes.
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