Make Your Own Development Board With Microcontroller





Introduction: Make Your Own Development Board With Microcontroller

Did you ever want to make your own development board with microcontroller and you didn´t know how .In this instructable I will show you how to make it.All you need is knowledge in electronics, designing circuits and programming.

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So let's begin.

Step 1: Materials

All materials for this project can be found on ebay or amazon.

-Bascom AVR for programming

-Attiny2313A-PU 8-bit

-USBasp AVR Programmer

-Stabilisator L78L05.This is stabilisator that stabilise voltage to 5V

-two 100nF condensators

-two 33pF condensators

-one 10k ohm resistor

-crystal 11MHz

-8 red LED diodes

-eight 100 ohm resistors

-11 pins

-10 pin ISP Male Connector Header

If you want you can also make relay outputs.For one relay output you need:

-12V DC relay

-1k ohm resistor

-1 LED diode

-1 Rectifier Diode IN4001

-NPN BC238 transistor

-three pins


In this project I used 8-bit chip from ATMEL family which can be also found on Arduino.It belongs to TTL family so it runs on 5V+.

It has 12 digital outputs or inputs.Pins 2,3, from 6-9 and from 11-16

Pin 12 and 13 can be also used for analog values

Pin 1 is reset

Pin 4 and 5 are connected to GND with 33pF condensators.

Pin 10 is GND

Pin 17 is MOSI

Pin 18 is MISO

Pin 19 is SCK

Pin 20 is Vcc+

For programming this chip I used USBASP AVR Programmer

Step 2: Wiring

You can help yourself wiring this by picture I posted.There are two 100nF condensators on picture but this time I used only one.

5V+ are connected to stabilisator L7805 then there is one 100nF condensator for smoothing voltage.Voltage goes to pin 20 and to pin 1 through 10k ohm resistor.Pin 4 and 5 are connected to GND with 33pF.Crystal is connected parallel between pin 4 and 5.

Resistor and LED diode on pin 11 are just for exemple.

How to connect 10 pin ISP Male Connector Header

You have numbered pins on picture so you will know where to start.

Pin 1 is connected to MOSI (pin 17 on Attiny 2313)

Pin 2 is connected to Vcc+

Pin 3 no connection

Pin 4, 6, 8 and 10 are connected to GND

Pin 5 is connected to reset pin on Attiny2313 (pin 1)

Pin 7 is connected to SCK (pin 19 on Attiny2313)

Pin 9 is connected to MISO (pin 18 on Attiny2313)

Relay output

Relay output can be used for electrical consumers with bigger current and voltage.Relay is controlled with transistor.Base of transistor is connected to digital output, collector is connected to relay circuit and emittor is connected to GND.Rectifier Diode IN4001 is used for protecting the circuit.LED diode is in this circuit so you can see when relay is ON.

Step 3: Fabricate the Circuit Board

I made this circuit by myself.For drawing the circuit is used SprintLayout.This is program for drawing circuits, in this program you have all the dimensions of electronic components so basicly you can make circuit for everything you want.

For engraving this board is used CNC engraving milling machine.I used normal board for circuits which is cotted with copper on one side.When board was finished I polished it with very fine sand paper.Then I mixed industrial alcohol and rosin in powder.With this mix I then coatted copper side to protect it.



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    We have a be nice policy.
    Please be positive and constructive.




    Is this anything like an arduino?

    It doesnt look like arduino but principle is the same

    Ah, I figured as much.
    Really cool project.

    Great job for a first time CNC'd board. There are a couple of things you might consider in the future (some 'best practice' if you will).

    1. When possible, traces should never make a 90 degree turn. At most they should be 45 degrees.

    2. Connect the pour/fill (the places where there are no traces) to ground or power. On a two layer board, connect one side to power and the other side to ground. (There are some pitfalls and things to avoid when doing this. Look here for guidelines.)

    3. Keep your signal traces as short as possible. This may mean changing your layout. You will want to ballance length with #4.

    4. Keep your traces on one side as much as possible, and avoid jumping from one side to the next as much as possible. (You did a great job with this, but at the sacrifice of #3. It's a hard balance to win, and you'll never please everyone.)

    5. Make sure your power traces (and signal for that matter) can conduct enough power. This means you might want to use an online calculator and figure out the minimum width of the power trace and then add 10%. Failure to do this could result in burned traces.

    6. You are going to want to cover the copper. With handling the board, you leave acid from your skin on the copper that etches it over time. The air and the moisture in the air will also tarnish the copper. I've found that cheap, clear nail polish works really well to keep the oxidation of the board at bay. It allows you to handle it without worrying that you might short something. (I'd recommend a foam paintbrush instead of the one that comes with the bottle. It will give you a nicer finish. Also, I'd do it in a well ventilated area or ideal outdoors.) You can also tin the copper. If you do this prior to soldering, it will make soldering a lot easier too.

    7. Your board is tarnishing already. This will actually cause issues with the signals in the long run. You'll use more power and traces may fail. Lemon juice (the stuff you get at the market) does wonders for removing the tarnish. Cover the bottom of a glass dish with about 2-3mm of lemon juice, and place the board, copper side down, into the lemon juice. Let it sit 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and rinse with water. You can use a toothbrush or similar to scrub the board prior to rinsing to remove tougher stains. (Do this before #6, if you plan on doing it at all)

    8. Use a sharper bit for the CNC (as I'm sure you know).

    You did a great job. I just remember when I was where you are, and these are things I wish I'd known.

    (Me just making some notifications), wanna comment some.. maybe me wrong??

    1. There's been seriously scientific studies about them angles of traces to be drawn in and what the angles should be used? The outcome says that using 45deg. vs. 90deg. angles doesn't count. Imagine them electrones travelling on the highway of your traces....your trace would be say 20thou. and the electron is of a size, (don't know), say a 1,000,000,000 fraction of the trace, so it actually wouldn't even notice that there was a corner.

    2. Right with that placing them power rails on opposite sides, but remember to keep in mind that this way you create a capasitivy tranciever = antenna. So be sure to decouple it good with accurate caps

    3. Right

    4, Right

    5. Right, with an comment: don't "OWERDO" this. e.g. I use with loads of ~5A/12V traces 60-80thou. No problems

    6. Right. There's allso sprays for electronics just to to protect the same thing, cheep

    7. AAArghh.. forget the "lemon" it doesn't belong to electronic's. There's many protecting .................... for just this purpose.


    The controller board is nice, but the title is misleading due to the fact that the attiny is a microcontroller.

    I´ve corrected it now so it wont be misleading anymore.

    Nice though..

    1. To me it looks like the breadboard isn't quite fully etched????

    2. The resistor value for the led is 1K/5V ??? shouldn't it be more like 220~330R

    3. Save the damage by putting a resistor on the base of the transistor or you fry something

    4. The breadboard certainly works as expected... but for clearence and functionality place them transistor's closer to the relay's... I know, the jumpers would be longer, but still...

    5. Actually, if it matters, you could have the PCB to a half the size just by good placing of the component's. I guess You'r kind of a beginner with this about PCB design?? You'r on a good way. GO STRONG, good 'ible

    1.Yes it is fully etched but the "drill bit" on engraving machice wasnt that sharp so it didnt make nice edges as you can see on the picture.

    2.Resistor value for led is 100 ohm

    3.It is better to put resistors on the base yes, but in this case I didnt and it also worked without damage.But in next project I will put resistor on the base.

    4,5.Yes I need more practice with PBC designe.Maybe I could make 20 to 30% smaller but to a half size...with more practice maybe :) and thank you

    Sorry to point again.. the resistor values should be; the initial V of the led, (normally about 2V), so it will be the source 5V-2V=3V. Then by the ohms law, if you want the led to draw its max. current (mA) usual leds= 20mA.

    R=U/I => 3V/0,020A; R= ~150ohms, but the leds will light pretty good ewen with ~10mA (~270-330ohms)