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Step 8Summary
The use of acrylic for the cam and the push-block allow for tapped set screws -- this is also true of the control handle on the top. But there is no reason these parts could not be carefully made from wood and glued in place on 1/4" dowel stock. My upright posts for supporting the top are also acrylic -- cemented to the base and tapped for #10 / 24 machine screws to hold on the top, but wood posts and wood screws would do just fine.
The photos are admittedly a bit difficult because of the unintended reflections of various surroundings that invariably show in the mirrors when you try to photograph this device, plus trying to see the shiny and/or clear acrylic parts in this prototype.
The photos are admittedly a bit difficult because of the unintended reflections of various surroundings that invariably show in the mirrors when you try to photograph this device, plus trying to see the shiny and/or clear acrylic parts in this prototype.
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Many years ago I experimented with a 3D, system in which I mounted a flat board with a circular level on a tripod so that I could slide a camera side to side and view them with a hand held viewer. I also experments with various spacings to get better control of the apparent depth.
1) visualizing a simple set of mirrors to turn any camera into a 3D capture device;
2) having enough confidence in your idea to BUILD it;
3) taking the time to document, with appropriate images, the steps you followed; and
4) taking the initiative to share it with the world, via instructables.com
This is just great! I have often visualized how to spit incoming images to capture a 3D perspective...but then, like so many of us who are fundamentally lazy, I never went further. You actually BUILT THE THING!!
I don't have a drill press...so I know that making vertical holes, or anything at a proper vertical angle, will be a challenge. But you have inspired me! Thank you for the concept you've shared, and the work you've put into this.
P.S. If you ever feel motivated to make a kit of mirrors and properly-drilled and grooved parts, please let us know. I'll be first on your list of customers!
Thank you.
--Ken Skier
kenskier@alum.mit.edu
I am very fortunate to have a great workshop, with tools and machines that in most cases have been handed down from my father and even grandfather, who were very skilled craftsmen. But I do enjoy the challenge to look at some idea, and while hoping it will work, doing my best to see it through. I find that the majority of these projects work out pretty well.
I was thinking about posting a seriously challenging project that I completed a couple of years ago -- a full size acoustic bass fiddle with a completely new design. Talk about a leap of faith! But amazingly, several qualified bass players have tried it, and one studio engineer also gave it a good listen, and all agree that it plays and sounds great. So my advice is take the challenge and try building-out your ideas. At worst, you learn something, and at best you can have some fun!
(fyi on the polarized method: although polarized filters allow color, they require a silver screen on which to project in order to keep the light polarized)