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Signing UpStep 1Does it actually work?-Yes!
I teacher engineering in high school and this is a project I do with my classes. If a ninth grader can build a working boomerang so can you. Still don't believe me, take a look at the video proof. (Note the plans are for a righty, the student in the video is a lefty he reversed the plans so it would work for a lefty.)
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As the video shows this boomerang will definitely come back.
But and essential question remains : when ?…
For instance is it able to catch the 7.45pm train to Newark transfer at Columbus and get there on time for dinner ?…
This is an important question as you all know that respect of schedules and rituals such as family evening meals are the bond of a civilized society.
No ?
Why no ?…
Cheers all !…
What?
jess
You'd think, though, because of the reverse force, that it would.
I just wrote a long description of materials, and lost it. Time to try again.
First off, where to get wood.
The first place to try is your local arts and craft store, or hobby store.
Much depends on how serious you are.
If you only want to throw it a few times for an hour or so. Either go with a paintstick boomerang or get a 3" sheet of basswood and one of the more simple plans, make each blade seperately and glue together using lap joints.
If you want to fool around for a weak, or maybe us it a couple of times a year. Either get plywood mean for underlayment ( good woods are luan, okume, birch ) or get plywood from a hobby shop. It should be 1/4" thick and at least 1'x2'.
If you get serious, get finnish birch. Do not get baltic birch. Boomerangs need to be bent to get best preformance. You do this by softening the glue in a microwave then bending before it hardens. The glue in baltic birch will not soften. This is generally no great loss since I don't know of a lumber yard that carries baltic birch but not finish birch. The porblem is that you have to buy a whole sheet of finish. Often times you can by a quarter sheet of half sheet of baltic. ( A sheet is 4'x8' ). A full sheet is four years worth for me.
Another variation on wood are strip laminate boomerangs. They are exactly what they sound like. I will let you read up on them on your own.
An alternate to wood is plastic. Plastic generally works well but if you use electric tools you have to be carefull not to melt the plastic.
Whatever plastic you decide to use a good source is, http://www.mcmaster.com.
The main plastic that I use is polypropylene ( since most of the booms I bought are from the same material ). The plastic of choice for general boomerangs is ABS, and for sports boomerangs is Paxolin ( especially "MTA" boomerangs ) but styrene, polystyrene, pvc, pvc foam, acrylic etc are all usable. You just don't want something too flexible.
If you do use a plastic, it is nice to get one that is clear or translucent. It gives some nice visual effects when it catches the sun.
One warning, if you make booms out of Paxolin, make sure to use a respirator. Paxolin dust is nasty to beathe.
This particular boom looks like an old commercial one called the "Tern". It was reputed to be a very good beginners boom.
The goldmine of designs is:
http://www.kutek.net/boomplans/plans.php
But the site has a serious flaw. They only include plans no descriptions.
Three other good places are:
http://www.boomerangpassion.com/plans/index_en.php
http://www.rediboom.com/englisch/bauplane/index.html
http://www.mrdunston.com/boomerang/
they include descriptions ( like what wind they like, their range, their hover etc).
Aside from the plans here I would recommend "le A"
http://www.boomerangpassion.com/plans/plans_en.php?id=6&langue=enand or the "mini tripale"
http://www.boomerangpassion.com/plans/plans_en.php?id=4&langue=en
You can buy a multipurpose spiral saw bit like:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188549&G=66357&I=66359
works great to cutt out the outline. I got a bit like this and a drywall bit for $3.
You can get the attachment, http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188575&G=69679&I=69795
but I used an old prescription drug bottle. Trimmed it a bit, made a hole in the bottom, took the cap off an old dremel and glued it to the hole, works good
( another instructable I guess ).
The bit pushes the debris out the other side, so I kept the cover of an old
CD spindle case pressed up under the lumber to catch it.
Once I cut out the shape, I use a rasp bit. Warning, it produces the same amount of dust as a rasp but it produces it a lot faster.
Rasp bits a bit strange. I found them at a local surplus store for 75 cents per bit. Most hobby shops carry them, but I can't find a manufacturer who makes them, so no URL. (Vermont American does make something but it comes with a 1/4" shank so it's for a drill not a dremel. )
So for about 5 bucks and a dremel you have most of the tools you need.
( I also use sandpaper flap wheels which I make from styrofoam and dowel. )
[url]http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/Mouta/allcut-1.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/Mouta/b-blank.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/Mouta/a-blank.jpg[/url]
" print them out full size "-what is full size?
Do you have permission to use copyright material, and why not provide a cleaned up pattern?
How about left-handed people? If you throw left-handed, you need a mirror image of the plan (the bevels are reversed).