Step 2: Scrounge Up a Chuck

I found an old cordless drill in a cabinet at work. Just the drill, no batteries and no charger. The Boss (that's my boss' boss - the higher up they are, the more capital letters they get - the CEO would be THE BOSS) said I could have it. Just what I need, a keyless chuck from a drill. I now have to remove said keyless chuck from said drill. After a bit of research I found out how. Here's how you can find out how to too:
1) Look in your drill's instruction manual.
2) Look up the chuck manufacturer's instructions on the internet - this is what I did.
3) Fiddle around with it and see if you can figure out how to remove it - I did a bit of this first.

My chuck was held onto the drill in 2 ways. Deep down inside the chuck was a machine screw. I couldn't get it to budge. After doing my internet search, I found out it is a left-hand threaded machine screw. I figure there are a few possible reasons for this:
1) The guy who made it made it wrong.
2) The guy who made it is left-handed.
3) The guy who made it is either from or made it in an alternate reality where everything is backwards. Up is down, down is up, cats are dogs, dogs are cats...
4) To keep the drill from falling apart. The back of the chuck is threaded with right-hand (normal) threads. When using the drill in the forward direction, the chuck would tend to be tightened onto the drill shaft when counter-rotational resistance is placed on the chuck. When the drill is used in the reverse direction (such as when un-screwing a screw) the chuck would be loosened from the drill shaft. It would be bad if your drill chuck fell off when attempting to un-screw stuff (corded drills often don't have this as they aren't meant to be used to drive and un-drive screws). So, they put a left-hand threaded screw in there to hold it on. A left-hand thread would tend to be tightened as counter-rotational resistance is placed on the chuck when spinning in reverse. Now that I've got that unnecessary lesson in physics out of the way...

I removed the left-hand threaded machine screw with a flat bladed screwdriver (use a phillips or hex key or whatever is used on your drill - if it is even there). The chuck is still amazingly tightly threaded onto the drill shaft. A lot of use in the forward direction (especially driving screws) will do that. To break it loose, tighten a 1/4 inch or larger (or smaller, but bigger is better) hex wrench (allen wrench) into the chuck. I only had one of the folding knife type sets available. That's what I used. A single piece one would work just as well if not better. If you don't have a hex key, something else L shaped and strong which can be tightened into the chuck would work.

Now place the drill body flat on a hard, well reinforced surface, with the business end (chuck) facing you and the handle of the hex wrench to your left. The chuck and hex wrench should be hanging off the edge. Using a whacking tool (hammer), strike the hex key sharply out near the end of it with a downward motion. The chuck should rotate on the drill shaft. If not, reset and whack again. Once it is loose, remove the hex key and un-thread the chuck the rest of the way.

You'll notice in the pictures for this step that contrary to what I said earlier, the drill has a battery. There's a good reason for this. It is because that is a different drill! The drill pictured is the one that always needs its batteries charged. The actual drill was already disassembled. Of course I saved the left hand machine screw - you never know when you'll need one of those! I also saved the rest of the drill - you never know when you'll need a cordless drill that doesn't have batteries, a charger or a chuck!

Good Job! Onward to the next step!
You may also splice wall cords to the batteries with resistors in series that will bring the voltage down to what the batteries can take, while the second part of the splice can feed directly to the motor.
I love hand tools. We use these to drill holes in Phone Poles to hang hardware to hang cable on. My Boss proved that he could climb a pole drill a hole and hang the hardware before you could with a gas powered drill. Brace and Bit. Climb Pole, belt in, drill hole and hang hard ware. Gas Drill. Climb pole, belt in, pull gas drill up to you on a hand line, start gas drill, FUTZ with the choke to get it to run, drill hole, hang hardware. GREAT POST!
Yeah but how fast was your boss after drilling 10 holes? The answer to that question would depend on the driver of the ambulance that took him away of course! I've had bosses like that too. Come in, knock out one thing fast, then say why can't you do that all day long?
If you put a 3/8 or 1/2 square socket bit in the chuck, you can also use this as a fast driver for your socket set.
Those are called speed wrenches. I've one. My pneumatic tools are speedier though.
It is ironic that most hardware stores have every kind of hand tool except the old fashion hand drill. That tool alone would save America a boatload of energy.<br />
They're called braces and go for about $5 or less at flea markets. I've two. They're absolutely horrible to use! I much prefer to expend my energy controlling a job as opposed to propelling it. They sure make me appreciate my 18V cordless hammerdrill a lot more. Another fun old timer is called a breast drill for if you really like to lean into your work.<br><br>If you could travel back in time with a load of modern power tools the craftsmen of days gone by would cast their rough implements down in disgust and worship you as if you were a God!<br><br>I've heard tale told of one that had a belt sander which was called a power planer back then and cost about a year's wages. He'd take his home from work every day and keep it under his bed he slept in. If that gives you an inkling of the respect power tools garner from those who can look at it from the other side.
Your drill is still the best, but I finally made and instructable of mine. https://www.instructables.com/id/Pvc-Hand-drill/
the steel rod could be replaced with a handle bar from a bmx bike they look exactly the same
Nice, I've wanted one of these but never thought of making my own.
Good work. When I did military service (1967), I volunteered to build a number of hand drills like these to use in the bush. They left acceptable.

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