The idea and circuit came from this Make weekend project. Why don't you pay them a visit?
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But for those of you who like it in text, here it is:
Helping Hands (Optional)
Soldering Iron
Solder
A Blue or White LED (Other colors are fine, too)
2N3904 Transistor or equivalent
1k Resistor (Brown-Black-Red)
Toroid Bead
Thin wire, two colors (magnet wire works)
You can get the toroid and transistor from a dead CFL; the transistor is usually labeled 13002.
Also, if you use a 2N4401 or BC337 transistor, your LED will be brighter because they can handle more amps.
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I can't figure out what is could be different in my setup that requires the cap.
Any thoughts?
Take apart a burned out spiral lightbulb.
I couldn't get it to work though until I removed the resistor.
Works fine without one.
It works with the said resistor if I put it at the beginning of the circuit, but of course the led is dimmer.
Nothing I tried otherwise worked.
What is the reason for the resistor?
I'm sure that Question has been answered before but I don't care enough look through 641 posts to find out.
Anyone want to take a sec to answer this?
I'm using a ferric torrid,
magnet wire,
<1.5v AA Batt.,
2n3904 transistor,
NO resistor???
It is Not supposed to be in series with the led like the usual job of current limiting.
With only 1 battery, going without the resistor (I hear) should work fine.
Does the LED matter? my toroid is about the size of a dime...is that big enough? What size wire is best...is enamel okay to use? Does it have to be a WHITE or BLUE LED? I am also testing with a new AA battery
any help would be great!
And I really can't figure it out, at all. :/
People always tell me they did everything right and it still doesn't work.
Assuming you have checked for shorts, etc, have you tried a different transistor? Maybe you burned it out.
You know the two wires coming out the other side of the toroid? You could try switching them.
After that, I'm not sure what to do. Maybe it's a thing with the toroid? Tell me if it's magnetic or not.
However, to the circuit you might want to add a voltage regulator (say, an LM317 found in UPS systems) and with the use of resistors you can set a steady current at a specific EMF. For the voltage regulator setup to work you need a voltage input which is greater than your desired output so you probably have to tune your joule thief. The addition of a secondary coil to the toroid (to step-up the voltage) can be an answer.
I'm just a hobbyist with just an intermediate level physics. :P Research just got me better. xd
thanks!
when i build one
i get my junk box and desolder the firsth npn i see :P
also if you make the 1K resistor a 2 or 5 K pot you can tune it into the right frequentie
any idea what transisotr to use for 4 LEDs?
Which parts got hot? And is there a reason you need to drive the LEDs with a joule theif?
it was the resistor that got hot. but i realized that after i forgot the battery on the xbox controller is 2x 1.5v.
i started over again and got it all working.
the reason for the joule thief is with wireless xbox 360 LED ABXY mods, when the battery gets under fully charged the LEDs in the controller dim really fast. and its noticeable after about 30 40 mins of using the controller on a fresh charge.
so i herd talk of people thinking of doing a joule thief in the xbox 360 controller. but no tutorials anywheres i could find. so i pieced this together myself. this joule thief tutorial and another for LEDs in the controller.
how i have it setup now is a 1k resistor from the controller to the joule thief + input. and the - to the joule thief to the - on the controller.
then on the +s and -s on the output of the joule thief i put 4 x 5mm white LEDs.
the batterys in the test controller are completely dead. cant even connect to the console for more then 2-3 mins. yet the LEDs for ABXY are bright.
when im saying + or - im referring to polarity. and my joule thief is using all the parts listed above. just put together abit neater.
i just put another 1k resistor off the controller + before the joule thief
battery life at 1 bar and the LEDs are still super bright. now just to fit this troid into the controller housing lol
quick question 1up. if i wrap the troid more then the recommended turns will this improve brightness for 4-6 LED's?
Just calculate a resistor for your LED's and use that in front of them.
dunno maybe i am missing something big here. i dont know anything about what im doing but i do know is the joule thief did fix the dim ABXY LEDs lol
If you google around people talk about similar issues with DIY ABXY LED mod on wireless controllers. thats why they mainly do it on wired controllers. because if the battery's for the controller are not fully charged the LEDs are considerably dimmer
I am wiring my LEDs in the controller on the positive and negative leads inside the controller.
Not sure if any of this is making sense to anyone. but i can post pictures and show what im talking about. its clear to see lol
Please explain to me what the torid does exactly. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into this project! Thanks for posting!