The idea and circuit came from this Make weekend project. Why don't you pay them a visit?
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Signing UpStep 1: Parts and Tools
But for those of you who like it in text, here it is:
Helping Hands (Optional)
Soldering Iron
Solder
A Blue or White LED (Other colors are fine, too)
2N3904 Transistor or equivalent
1k Resistor (Brown-Black-Red)
Toroid Bead
Thin wire, two colors (magnet wire works)
You can get the toroid and transistor from a dead CFL; the transistor is usually labeled 13002.
Also, if you use a 2N4401 or BC337 transistor, your LED will be brighter because they can handle more amps.









































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um.. forgive me, i just a beginner
This bike flasher uses a single transistor to flash one or two white LEDs from a single cell. And it uses a fridge magnet for the core of the transformer. This means anyone can build it with common components.
Cut a small fridge magnet into four pieces and make sure each piece sits the same way on the previous piece. The size of the pieces do not matter. 1.5cm x 1.5cm works well. Now wind 30 turns and then another 30 turns. Build the first circuit and connect the wires. If the circuit does not work, swap the feedback wires.
Now add the 10u electrolytic and 100k resistor (remove the 1k5). The circuit will now flash.
http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/200TrCcts/images/BikeFlasher-Amazing-1.gif
The circuit they are in has a 3-pin device labelled only "8N 11027" & a 2-pin device w/o any label.
I thought I might rebuild it with a joule thief that would work with 3 white leds off 2 D-cells. Can you help?
Can anyone tell me if I can use this circuit to light 5 leds (3V), but from a 2.4V input?
Thank you!
I have seen lots of comments asking it a transistor type BCxxx 2Nyyy ( you get my drift ) would work.
I would suggest that anyone asking can easily find out quickly by using google search.
It needs to be an NPN transistor and if you search for say hsd965
you will find it is an NPN transistor. check which pin is collector, base and emitter and connect them as explained in this instructable.
The only time you might get a problem is if the gain ( Hfe ) is very low.
The hsd965 is quite high power and it's gain is high too.
If it still doesn't work then assuming you have all the connections made you should try reversing the connections for ONE of the wires. In the picture above for example swap the 2 orange connections over.
Hope this helps.
I can't figure out what is could be different in my setup that requires the cap.
Any thoughts?
Take apart a burned out spiral lightbulb.
I couldn't get it to work though until I removed the resistor.
Works fine without one.
It works with the said resistor if I put it at the beginning of the circuit, but of course the led is dimmer.
Nothing I tried otherwise worked.
What is the reason for the resistor?
I'm sure that Question has been answered before but I don't care enough look through 641 posts to find out.
Anyone want to take a sec to answer this?
I'm using a ferric torrid,
magnet wire,
<1.5v AA Batt.,
2n3904 transistor,
NO resistor???
It is Not supposed to be in series with the led like the usual job of current limiting.
With only 1 battery, going without the resistor (I hear) should work fine.
Does the LED matter? my toroid is about the size of a dime...is that big enough? What size wire is best...is enamel okay to use? Does it have to be a WHITE or BLUE LED? I am also testing with a new AA battery
any help would be great!
And I really can't figure it out, at all. :/
People always tell me they did everything right and it still doesn't work.
Assuming you have checked for shorts, etc, have you tried a different transistor? Maybe you burned it out.
You know the two wires coming out the other side of the toroid? You could try switching them.
After that, I'm not sure what to do. Maybe it's a thing with the toroid? Tell me if it's magnetic or not.
However, to the circuit you might want to add a voltage regulator (say, an LM317 found in UPS systems) and with the use of resistors you can set a steady current at a specific EMF. For the voltage regulator setup to work you need a voltage input which is greater than your desired output so you probably have to tune your joule thief. The addition of a secondary coil to the toroid (to step-up the voltage) can be an answer.
I'm just a hobbyist with just an intermediate level physics. :P Research just got me better. xd
thanks!
when i build one
i get my junk box and desolder the firsth npn i see :P
also if you make the 1K resistor a 2 or 5 K pot you can tune it into the right frequentie
any idea what transisotr to use for 4 LEDs?
Which parts got hot? And is there a reason you need to drive the LEDs with a joule theif?
it was the resistor that got hot. but i realized that after i forgot the battery on the xbox controller is 2x 1.5v.
i started over again and got it all working.
the reason for the joule thief is with wireless xbox 360 LED ABXY mods, when the battery gets under fully charged the LEDs in the controller dim really fast. and its noticeable after about 30 40 mins of using the controller on a fresh charge.
so i herd talk of people thinking of doing a joule thief in the xbox 360 controller. but no tutorials anywheres i could find. so i pieced this together myself. this joule thief tutorial and another for LEDs in the controller.
how i have it setup now is a 1k resistor from the controller to the joule thief + input. and the - to the joule thief to the - on the controller.
then on the +s and -s on the output of the joule thief i put 4 x 5mm white LEDs.
the batterys in the test controller are completely dead. cant even connect to the console for more then 2-3 mins. yet the LEDs for ABXY are bright.
when im saying + or - im referring to polarity. and my joule thief is using all the parts listed above. just put together abit neater.
i just put another 1k resistor off the controller + before the joule thief
battery life at 1 bar and the LEDs are still super bright. now just to fit this troid into the controller housing lol
quick question 1up. if i wrap the troid more then the recommended turns will this improve brightness for 4-6 LED's?
Just calculate a resistor for your LED's and use that in front of them.
dunno maybe i am missing something big here. i dont know anything about what im doing but i do know is the joule thief did fix the dim ABXY LEDs lol
If you google around people talk about similar issues with DIY ABXY LED mod on wireless controllers. thats why they mainly do it on wired controllers. because if the battery's for the controller are not fully charged the LEDs are considerably dimmer
I am wiring my LEDs in the controller on the positive and negative leads inside the controller.
Not sure if any of this is making sense to anyone. but i can post pictures and show what im talking about. its clear to see lol
Please explain to me what the torid does exactly. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into this project! Thanks for posting!
Of course, don't take too much time soldering it or it really might explode. Other thing to note is that they stay hot for like, centuries, after you heat them.
Charles
h**p://buju357.blogspot.com/2011/05/very-powerfull-joule-thief-single.html
http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Juicy-Lemon-Light-Pod/
Thanks!
will it work?
Turns out the transistor I had was either broken or pnp. I got a bread board so I just tried different transistors until it worked.
Thanks for the very detailed instructions!
i used a bc547 transistor
cool project
You are right, you should never try to solder to batteries.
So I reversed one phase in both of my joule thieves, and they work brilliantly now! The LED is blinding!
Thanks for the great instructable!
Thanks.
This makes no sense why it worked, as the way you wound the toroid both the phases should be the right way. But it worked...
http://hackedgadgets.com/wp-content/_rusty_nail_led_project.jpg
1) For doing it with the nail, do you go down the nail then back up with the wire?
2) In the image what does the Cap do?
3) How do you do it with air?
4) From what I understand the power going to the LED is AC, because of the on/off from the transistor, so could you run the power through a diode rectifier to run other stuff, or would you need some caps to make the current continual?
Sorry about having so many questions I don't know much about circuitry but would like to learn, and I thought this would be a good one to build.
h**p://buju357.blogspot.com/2010/12/6-led-joule-thief.html
Eirik.
I think this works similar to my Supercharged joule Thief. The scary part is I'm getting efficiencies of over 90 percent!! See my blog here.
http://watsonseblog.blogspot.com/2009/01/joule-thief-high-efficiency-isthe-topic.html
Also, if people would give up using the 2N3904, which can't handle enough current, and move on to the much better 2N4401 or BC337, they would be pleased by the much brighter LED output.
Thanks.
The higher the inductance, the greater the energy stored according to the formula found here (scroll down to stored energy).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductor
The greater the energy, the more power is transferred to the LED.
The greater the inductance, the slower the Joule Thief will run. I've built them with coils with high inductance and they are running at frequencies that I can hear, about 700 to 1100 Hz.
The Joule Thief coil does not work as a transformer; the output is taken from the same winding that is connected to the input. The feedback winding does not do anything to change the voltage, it just provides a signal to keep the JT oscillating.
The Joule Thief is very tolerant of the type and inductance of the coil. But as you said, 20 to 30 turns is a good point to get it running. Some toroids are low permeability, not much more than if the core material was made of air! In this case, it would be better to use more turns to keep the JT from running a too high a frequency.
Shake it like a Tic Tac. My circuit is part-way down the page:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Shake-it-like-a-Tic-Tac!/
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9007/picture335f.jpg
do you think this would add grate improvement or lead to problems ?
i use this transistor and it works very well
Alright, sure, I suppose it is.
pretty cool though cuz if u messed up the wiring said result deserves an instructable of its own "joule thief flasher"
anfegori91 look carefully at what u did there....
Sorry... If you still want to read it, just copy it and paste it on Microsoft Wordpad or something to read it. This has got to be one of the worst commenting experiences ever!
Love LEDs..=D
http://www.instructables.com/id/Joule_Thief_Charger/
http://www.instructables.com/id/high-voltage-joule-thief/
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=14720
Or this
http://www.elecfree.com/electronic/solar-regulator-by-2n3906/
so I ordered all the parts and got 220uH toroids w/ 2200pf capacitors, lets hope it works!
I found these at Radio Shack in a 5 pack for $7.99.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3097455&tab=features
Anyways,Try to superglue it together
They're inexpensive, but I can't speak for these parts because I've never bought any. I get my toroids from used equipment and cables such as mouse and keyboard cables. You can also find toroids inside of old PC power supplies. Some may be larger, some small. Some may have potting compound on them, making it more difficult. I sometimes take a plastic covered toroid outside and heat it with a propane torch, or else attack it with a pliers and/or utility knife. Remember that toroids are basically glass, so they can break. And you should know that you can damage it or yourself with a sharp tool.
You can also use coils and chokes. I've used coils with a single winding by winding fine wire over the outside for the feedback winding.
You don't have to have a second winding. You can use a single winding if you add a second transistor. Here's another instructables, but I'm not sure why QS used a second transistor when it would be simpler to wind the second winding. http://www.instructables.com/id/A_high_power_LED_torch_using_a_single_AA_battery/?ALLSTEPS
Have fun. watsonseblog.blogspot.com
"ferrite is a ceramic and contains NO metals at all."
I think you had better reasses what you just said. According to the following patents, most if not all of the elements in ferrites are metals.
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6790379.html
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/3609084.html
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6652768/claims.html
You can find more of the same with Google. Feel free to quote references if you disagree.
I rest my case. No need for me to read any of your other links. These hard ceramic ferrites are fired at temperatures way above any that metal can survive. I am not here to educate you. I have been saying all along that these are metal OXIDES not metal which, as stated in my first post you had a problem with, have DIFFERENT properties than metals.
If you want to learn how to make a really powerful JT circuit that is very very close to unity, check out my topic on Overunitydotcom. Otherwise, I have other things to do.
Bill
DUH!
An open letter to all other readers: I invite you to agree or disagree with what he said. I cannot reason with him; his eyes are open but HE CANNOT SEE.
So acmefixer you are both, to some extent, right and you are both, to some extent, wrong.
To say a ferrite contains metal ( which is existing as a compound ) is true just as to say water contains oxygen.
Equally to say it contains elemental metal is wrong.
As the metals are in compounds they do have completely different properties just the same as hydrogen ( an element ) and oxygen ( another element ) have completely different properties to their very common compound H2O - water.
So I guess it is down to using the correct terminology.
Hope that helps to settle this argument.
You have to remove the core and unwind the three windings, but that's easy 'cuz each winding is only three turns. There are other parts in there that can be used, too.
If you're going to do some serious experimenting with Joule Thiefs, buy some cores from Mouser the Fair-Rite 2673002402 (high permeability) or 2643002402 (medium permeability) make good JT toroids, and they cost something like $11 for a bag of 100.
its already put together and is ready for pcb mount , i just need info like the inductance, amps, ohms... any ideas?
its startin to piss me off......
so yes, you can power leds with capacitors, but i don't see why you would build a joule thief for that aplication
I used this in a Cyborg zombie feeding on "dead" batteries.
My Instructable includes a no-soldering construction.
http://ledcalc.com/
7042
-02
M635
Would that work?
ive heard u can get them out of cheap radios is that true?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Take-apart-a-Compact-Fluorescent-Bulb/
it's not mine but thanx "westfw"
- Make sure the transistor is a 2N3904, and that it works fine.
- Be sure you're using a 1k resistor. (Color code Brown-Black-Red)
- If you are unsure on how to put it together from the instructions, check out the schematic in the last step.
Hope those tips help.
what about this ...
I found it today
if you can plz tell me all the
parts and a better schematic
I'm sorry to ask you so much but
I'm really busy with my exam
PLZ HELP ME !!!
Cat Burglar
Joule Thief Torch