This project shows you how to convert any ordinary slider to an Arduino controlled motorized slider. The slider can move very fast at 6m/min, but also incredibly slow.

I reccomend you watch the video to get a good introduction.

Things you need:

Step 1: Drill the Mounting Holes for the Stepper Motor.

The stepper motor needs to be mounted underneath the track. The closer to the end, the longer your length of travel. The easiest way to transfer the hole pattern from the motor to the track is by tracing it with painters paint. This is a very useful tip for all kinds of applications.

The pulleys were quite high, so I had to drill large holes to accomondate for some of their height inside the track. That can be easily done with a drillpress and a stepped drill bit.

Make sure you use a center punch to mark the locations of the holes. This makes drilling them easier and more precise.

A 90° chamfer bit cleans up the edges nicely.

<p>What is the name of that iron?</p>
<p>I think this one is VERY interesting. If you add a move-pause-shoot-move- function it could be one of my favourites timelapse gadgets ever ^_^</p><p> O:-) </p>
<p>That would be cool! Somebody on Youtube told me that he is going to pair the Arduino with an Infrared Transmitter which will trigger his DSLR. I belive you can trigger an iPhone over the headphone jack. The code woule be simple. Just tell the Arduino to trigger the camera after every step when its going slow, or every 200 steps if it&acute;s going fast. </p>
<p>How smooth is the move when , for instance, 8 hours is selected?</p><p>I use DC motors (with reduction, of course) when i want to make continuous movement, i think this reduces 'stepped-like' movement when shooting video... I just use stepper motor in move-shoot-move inventions, mmm..... </p><p>Is your slider capable to move a DSLR camera? Is it capable to use some inclination? :) </p><p>I think you can include an end switch to stop current when the dolly reaches the end, it's easier than programming lengths i.m.h.o. </p><p>Anyway, your idea is VERY clever and your instructable's gonna be open in my navigator for a while ^_^</p>
<p>Not smoot at all since it moves in step, but that does not matter for the time lapse. The slider is 100cm long, the pulley diameter is about 2.5cm. So We need 40 rotations. Each rotation consists of 400 steps with 1/2 microstepping activated. So we have 16000 Steps over 8 hours which means it will move every 0.5s and stay still in between. </p>
<p>Nice one Max. I've really enjoyed following your instructable. You have inspired me to have a go at this myself. Many thanks.</p>
<p>Thank you! I wish you the best of luck! Would be cool if you could upload some pictures of your build!</p>
I certainly will upload pictures when it's done....but I'm planning to make the slider first, before I motorise it. It's a pretty ambitious idea for me, and I've still not sourced any suitable extrusion to base it all on. But once it's made I'll be returning to your instructable for the tech input.<br>Thanks again Max.
<p>What extrusion do you plan on using?</p>
<p>Great one, nice job. Thanks for mentioning the 'challenges' with the build. Awesome video instruction. </p>
<p>I do what Larry Willmore told me: Keep it 100!</p>
<p>Hi very nice project, I guess the cheaper version of the arduino like https://goo.gl/q9xmxf will work just as well right?</p>
<p>Yes it will work. However I rather spend 20$ for an Arduino and can be sure that there will be nothing wrong with it. It is incredibly hard to troubleshoot if you cannot trust your micro controller.</p>
<p>Fair point. I asked as I have used a ton of clones and never had an issue. Nano is pretty much an AT-Mega 328P with a regulator on a breakout board. I get your point though. </p>
<p>Yes, that should work perfectly.</p>
<p>Is it possible to make this so that it will reverse directions, travel back and forth in other words?</p>
<p>Yes, but you will have to make some minor changes to the code. The change involves the variable 'dirPin' which is set to HIGH to set travel in one direction. If you put another switch on another digital input, and check whether the switch is open or closed, you could then write that value to dirPin. Or without code changes you could instead wire the direction pin of the 4988 to a switch with a pull-up resistor (say 200 Ohms) connected to the 5v rail, and the other side of the switch connected to ground.</p>
<p>You actually just need to switch out 2 of the 4 motor wires with themselves if that was your question. </p>
<p>Sure, you can program pretty much whatever you want. At the moment the codes checks if it has reached the end yet.If it has not, it goes another step. You could tell the code to go back to its origin when it reached the end.</p>
<p>Great instructional!</p>
<p>Thank you!</p>
<p>This is a great project and a very fine instructable! Thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>Thank you for your kind words!</p>
cool project brother.
<p>Thank you!</p>

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