Instructables

Make a Pro Waterproof Camera Case (+ video)

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Picture of Make a Pro Waterproof Camera Case (+ video)
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This is how I made a waterproof case for my digital camera. It's not a super detailed instructable...more like a build-a-long. It's full of great ideas on how you can make your own...

One great hurdle this case solves is the camera interface. Mose DIY waterproof (hard) cases don't have a way of operating the camera's shutter. It's usually just turning on the camera and sticking it inside a box while it films.


My lake is frozen, so I'll need to wait until it thaws to get some good pics. I'm stuck with the sink for now!


 
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Step 1: The Box I used...

Picture of The Box I used...
 This box is just an airtight food storage box from Dollar General (cost $2.00). If you don't have a dollar store nearby, Meijers ALWAYS has them in stock, but prepare to pay $3.00 and up. Just look in the Tupperware section :D

Step 2: Hole For The Lense

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 By itself, this box isn't clear enough for taking picture. You'll need to cut a circular hole in it, and mount a piece of plexiglass/lexan/plastic/ as a lens. I used a hole saw...but a spade bit would work if you can find a large one.

WHEN YOU CUT YOUR HOLE: make it like 3 times larger than your camera's lens assembly! You can't make it too big! But you can make it too small... and that means you have a shadow around you video, called a vignette.

The hole in this photo was too small, so I later enlarged it.

Step 3: The Lens

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The lense is just a peice of clear plastic with holes in it. It's mounted with bolts and nuts.

Step 4: Gasket

 Use sticky-backed craft foam as a gasket. You are going to silicone the outside cracks anyway, but the foam makes a darn good secondary defense against water.
The sticky side of this foam is on the lens.

Step 5: Waterproofing the Screws

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 Make sure the screw heads are facing inside. Before you tighten them, put some silicone on the threads.

Step 6: Viewing Port

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 Cut out a window on the lid of the container so you can see the screen of your camera. Using the same technique you did to make the lens, mount a piece of plastic on the INSIDE with screws, foam, and silicone.

Step 7: My mistake...

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 OK, up to this pint, unknowingly, I made the lens-hole too small! I had to go back in time, and fix it. Don't make the same mistake! Don't make the hole to small!
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Step 8: Mounting the Camera

 One of the hard parts of making a custom case is actually holding the camera still! Without some way to mount you camera, it would just jumble around inside...

So I decided to wrap my camera (with the lens extended) in a plastic bag, tape it inside the waterproof box, and inject Great Stuff expanding foam around it. It worked great! Just make sure you don't get any foam on your camera or the plastic lens you made.

Some tips when using Great Stuff: It expands...Just put a little bit inside the box, and it will triple in size after just 10 minutes. Never EVER put to much foam in. It will never dry...If you put too little foam, you can always add more! Just paint some water on the already cured foam, and spray some more foam in.
If you think your foam isn't drying, DON'T FREEK OUT. Just wait 24 hours, and it will almost always be cured.

After the foam is dry, pull it out (it won't stick to this kind of plastic). Trim it with a knife, make it look pretty. I painted mine black so it looked better from the outside.

Step 9: Pushing the Shutter Button

 Ok, this is a pretty iffy solution, but it works! 

It's hard to explain, but here I go..
Get a plastic cylinder that it small enough to push the camera's button. Cut it really short so that it touches both the inside of the box and the shutter button of the camera (when the camere is inside the foam insert, inside the case).

It WILL take some fiddling to get right, so don't give up if it's not quite working.

Now all you have to do it gently squeeze the box, and the plastic cylinder pushes the button! 

Step 10: Silicone...

 Ok, now silicone EVERY SINGLE NOOK AND CRANNY. 
let it cure..
..and get wet!
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I like your solution to the shutter button problem. Much more elegant than mine. :)
frits2972 years ago
look really good, thanks for the instructable, i'm going to give it a try
where would you be able to find a piece of plexiglass like that?
what if you used caulking, it wouldnt look all that bad. in fact it looks great on mine
net20054 years ago
quick an easy: ziplock bag
VadimS4 years ago
Shouldn't the plastic be on the outside? So that the water pressure will help it seal.
nepheron (author)  VadimS4 years ago
 It's not going very deep. Practicality overpowered functionality in this project.
VadimS nepheron4 years ago
I was mainly wondering wy you specified the inside as I can't see wy it would matter.
nepheron (author)  VadimS4 years ago
The outside of the lid has rough texture, with an embossed logo and such. I was afraid that the rough surface would effect the gasket, so I mounted the window on the smooth inside.
VadimS4 years ago
Just wanted to recommend using 2-part epoxy instead of a gasket, I can't think of any reason you would need to remove the lens and epoxy will be a lot stronger.
nepheron (author)  VadimS4 years ago
 Epoxy has the tendency to look really bad.
VadimS nepheron4 years ago
I guess if it's not put on properly it could. When I get my new camera I do plan to build something like this, but probably just out of Plexiglas (I dive).

But anyway nice Ible.
yardguy004 years ago
Im sure most of you are doing this because its fun to be crafty.... thats great, but just incase; you can buy a waterproof camera bag off ebay for 3 bucks! Works good! They also sell pricier version for like 30 which I also own.
Oh and a bonus to the bag is you can actually mess with your setting through the bag.
You're probably right that the poster did this to be crafty, but
this would be useful if you have a camera like mine:
www.elitezoom.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/fujifilm-s1000fd.jpg
it's technically a digital camera, but it's still not a DSLR.

Have a fun time trying to find a case for THAT, and if you do, I'll be surprised, but my point still stands that this is a cheaper alternative :)
(in case the link doesn't work; it's a fujifilm finepix s1000fd)
I, like you ,doubted that aswell but it turns out they do have DSLR waterproof bags... makes sense.. they are just bigger bags ;)
But you are right...in this case  its cheaper to go the crafty route as they Dslr bags are $30-$120. However you will have slightly better control over your camera thru the bag.  I personally wouldnt trust a DSLR in one of these. Stick to cheapo $200 cameras for your snorkeling.
nepheron (author)  Fishpail4 years ago
  This actually the cooler and more fun alternative :D
isacco4 years ago
Congratulations for the idea, the quality of assembling, and the clear explanations. Very good Instructable
juanoporras4 years ago
hey nepherton, pretty cool instructable, I was going to buy a waterproof bag for my camera, but it runs around 15 dollars; this is a great idea instead of buying those.
It would be pretty cool if you added a hole for the flash so you could take pictures underneath the water when is dark.

where did you get the black sticky foam?

thanks for sharing
 I would avoid those waterproof bags. They're alright if you're going to take your camera near water, but not in it. It'll keep your camera dry for a little bit, but I almost lost a point and shoot to one of those.
nepheron (author)  axist474 years ago
 And hard cases look cooler than a bag...
nepheron (author)  juanoporras4 years ago
 Thanks! Most craft stores sell this sort of thing. I got mine from Micheal's...
It's a hard thing to find in the store, so you should ask an employee for 'sticky-backed foam'.
It comes it tones of colors...real cheap, too.
How can you tell how big it needs to be?
I think it says 3 times bigger than the lens or smaller, I think.... : )
nepheron (author)  Ejstructables4 years ago
 3 times the diameter of your lens, or you will see the edges of the box when you film :)
ThePolrBear4 years ago
Righteous!  Have you put it to depth yet?  I was wondering how deep the box would let you go before leakage.
nepheron (author)  ThePolrBear4 years ago
 I'll test it in a few months. It's too cold now...
I'll test it to it's limit (until it springs a leak), and then post my results here.
Awesome, I'm heading to the beach in August and would like to try it.  I'll probably make one just for surface shots anyway.  If we're lucky a pod of dolphin will swim by and I'll have something with me this year.

Good luck!
sdhardie4 years ago
This would be fantastic for kayaking too, just in case I drop my camera.  Just one problem.... I have a digital SLR. Can this Instructable be modified for such???
 I've seen similar containers that are MUCH bigger. I'm pretty sure it would be possible to get a DSLR into one.
agis684 years ago
 It's a nice project. But...

The tests you did are doubtful. You test the device in some 10-15 cm of water and not in real conditions. If you aim to use it in lake waters the only issue you have to take care is the pressure. 1 m under the water is scary enough. 
For the salty water please don't try it . Salt is very annoying thing. Penetrates easy and the damage is done before do something else. You have  many holes, so may points of water entrance. You have to do something about it. Also the pressure in salty water is more bigger. Recently i found in stores a waterproof case that fits to any camera (mean compact camera) and costs about 40 euros. 
Nice try anyaway
xadevox4 years ago
and where can i get silicone?
Broom xadevox4 years ago
Silicone is often sold as tub & tile cement, "Plumber's Goop" (tm), and so on. It's the flexible stuff that you often find sealing the interface between tub tops & the shower walls. Comes in both clear & white.
 Be careful, "plumber's goop" can also be pipe thread compound which is something you DON'T want to use as it won't seal.   You want to be sure you're using Silicone Seal.  
That's why I specified "Plumber's Goop" (tm), which is a specific product (made of silicone).
 lowes

Broom4 years ago
Great idea, but I think I can offer one improvement. Instead of using screws, depend on silicone glue to hold pieces together. Clamp the pieces together after "wetting" both surfaces with the glue, to insure a solid seal, for the "partial cure" time of the silicone.

You will have fewer holes in the housing ( = less points of entry for water = fewer failure possibilities), and since water pressure will always be pushing in on the plexiglass plates (remember to seal the plates on the outside of the box!), nothing will threaten the glue seal.

Bolts would only be needed if there was a chance that the plexiglass would get shear forces, like from a glancing blow to its edge, but that's not really a problem for this application.
nepheron (author)  Broom4 years ago
 I bolted it because I wanted to avoid "catastrophic failure". Only small leaks can occur now, but if the whole window fell off...water would rush in!
Broom nepheron4 years ago
But that's my point - there no reason for the whole window to fall off, unless the inside is suddenly superpressurized (so don't store CO2 cartridges in there with your camera!), or a strong glancing blow sheers the edge of the plate (bevel it, or else stop using your camera as an underwater hammer).
thepelton4 years ago
Making a hole too small is no way as bad as making it too big, as I found out while working with wood.  You can always remove wood, but you can't replace it.
nepheron (author)  thepelton4 years ago
 But making it right is better than making it wrong. :)
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