Step 6: Viewing Port

 Cut out a window on the lid of the container so you can see the screen of your camera. Using the same technique you did to make the lens, mount a piece of plastic on the INSIDE with screws, foam, and silicone.
quick an easy: ziplock bag
<p>Ziploc bag: cheap and easy</p><p>Oh hey disclaimer might cost you the exact price of your camera, just so you know!</p>
I like your solution to the shutter button problem. Much more elegant than mine. :)
look really good, thanks for the instructable, i'm going to give it a try
where would you be able to find a piece of plexiglass like that?
what if you used caulking, it wouldnt look all that bad. in fact it looks great on mine
Shouldn't the plastic be on the outside? So that the water pressure will help it seal.<br />
&nbsp;It's not going very deep. Practicality overpowered functionality in this project.
I was mainly wondering wy you specified the inside as I can't see wy it would matter.<br />
The outside of the lid has rough texture, with an embossed logo and such. I was afraid that the rough surface would effect the gasket, so I mounted the window on the smooth inside.
Just wanted to recommend using 2-part epoxy instead of a gasket, I can't think of any reason you would need to remove the lens and epoxy will be a lot stronger.<br />
&nbsp;Epoxy has the&nbsp;tendency&nbsp;to look&nbsp;really&nbsp;bad.
I guess if it's not put on properly it could. When I get my new camera I do plan to build something like this, but probably just out of Plexiglas (I dive).<br /> <br /> But anyway nice Ible.<br />
Im sure most of you are doing this because its fun to be crafty.... thats great, but just incase; you can buy a waterproof camera bag off ebay for 3 bucks! Works good! They also sell pricier version for like 30 which I&nbsp;also own.<br /> Oh and a bonus to the bag is you can actually mess with your setting through the bag.<br />
You're probably right that the poster did this to be crafty, but<br /> this would be useful if you have a camera like mine:<br /> <a href="http://www.elitezoom.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/fujifilm-s1000fd.jpg" rel="nofollow">www.elitezoom.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/fujifilm-s1000fd.jpg</a><br /> it's technically a digital camera, but it's still not a DSLR.<br /> <br /> Have a fun time trying to find a case for THAT, and if you do, I'll be surprised, but my point still stands that this is a cheaper alternative :)<br /> (in case the link doesn't work; it's a fujifilm finepix s1000fd)<br />
I, like you ,doubted that aswell but it turns out they do have DSLR waterproof bags... makes sense.. they are just bigger bags ;)<br /> But you are right...in this case&nbsp; its cheaper to go the crafty route as they Dslr bags are $30-$120. However you will have slightly better control over your camera thru the bag.&nbsp; I personally wouldnt trust a DSLR in one of these. Stick to cheapo $200 cameras for your snorkeling.<br />
&nbsp;&nbsp;This actually the cooler and more fun alternative :D
Congratulations for the idea, the quality of assembling, and the clear explanations. Very good Instructable<br />
hey nepherton, pretty cool instructable, I was going to buy a waterproof bag for my camera, but it runs around 15 dollars; this is a great idea instead of buying those.<br /> It would be pretty cool if you added a hole for the flash so you could take pictures underneath the water when is dark.<br /> <br /> where did you get the black sticky foam?<br /> <br /> thanks for sharing<br />
&nbsp;I would avoid those waterproof bags. They're alright if you're going to take your camera near water, but not in it. It'll keep your camera dry for a little bit, but I almost lost a point and shoot to one of those.
&nbsp;And&nbsp;hard cases&nbsp;look cooler than a <em>bag</em>...
&nbsp;Thanks! Most craft stores sell this sort of thing. I got mine from Micheal's...<br /> It's a hard thing to find in the store, so you should ask an employee for 'sticky-backed foam'.<br /> It comes it tones of colors...real cheap, too.
How can you tell how big it needs to be?
I think it says 3 times bigger than the lens or smaller, I think.... : )<br />
&nbsp;3 times the diameter of your lens, or you will see the edges of the box when you film :)
Righteous!&nbsp; Have you put it to depth yet?&nbsp; I was wondering how deep the box would let you go before leakage.
&nbsp;I'll test it in a few months. It's too cold now...<br /> I'll test it to it's limit (until it springs a leak), and then post my results here.
Awesome, I'm heading to the beach in August and would like to try it.&nbsp; I'll probably make one just for surface shots anyway.&nbsp; If we're lucky a pod of dolphin will swim by and I'll have something with me this year.<br /> <br /> Good luck!
This would be fantastic for kayaking too, just in case I drop my camera.&nbsp; Just one problem.... I have a digital SLR. Can this Instructable be modified for such???<br />
&nbsp;I've seen similar containers that are MUCH bigger. I'm pretty sure it would be possible to get a DSLR into one.
&nbsp;It's a nice project. But...<br /> <br /> The tests you did are doubtful. You test the device in some 10-15 cm of water and not in real conditions. If you aim to use it in lake waters the only issue you have to take care is the pressure. 1 m under the water is scary enough.&nbsp;<br /> For the salty water please don't try it . Salt is very annoying thing. Penetrates easy and the damage is done before do something else. You have &nbsp;many holes, so may points of water entrance. You have to do something about it. Also the pressure in salty water is more bigger. Recently i found in stores a waterproof case that fits to any camera (mean compact camera) and costs about 40 euros.&nbsp;<br /> Nice try anyaway<br />
and where can i get silicone?
Silicone is often sold as tub &amp;&nbsp;tile cement, &quot;Plumber's Goop&quot;&nbsp;(tm), and so on. It's the flexible stuff that you often find sealing the interface between tub tops &amp; the shower walls. Comes in both clear &amp; white.<br />
&nbsp;Be careful, &quot;plumber's goop&quot; can also be pipe thread compound which is something you DON'T want to use as it won't seal. &nbsp; You want to be sure you're using Silicone Seal. &nbsp;
That's why I specified &quot;Plumber's Goop&quot;&nbsp;(tm), which is a specific product (made of silicone).<br />
&nbsp;lowes<br /> <br />
Great idea, but I&nbsp;think I can offer one improvement.&nbsp;Instead of using screws, depend on silicone glue to hold pieces together. Clamp the pieces together after &quot;wetting&quot; both surfaces with the glue, to insure a solid seal, for the &quot;partial cure&quot; time of the silicone.<br /> <br /> You will have fewer holes in the housing ( = less points of entry for water = fewer failure possibilities), and since water pressure will always be pushing in on the plexiglass plates (remember to seal the plates on the outside of the box!), nothing will threaten the glue seal. <br /> <br /> Bolts would only be needed if there was a chance that the plexiglass would get shear forces, like from a glancing blow to its edge, but that's not really a problem for this application.<br />
&nbsp;I bolted it&nbsp;because&nbsp;I wanted to avoid &quot;catastrophic failure&quot;. Only small leaks can&nbsp;occur&nbsp;now, but if the whole window fell off...water would rush in!
But that's my point - there no reason for the whole window to fall off, unless the inside is suddenly superpressurized (so don't store CO2 cartridges in there with your camera!), or a strong glancing blow sheers the edge of the plate (bevel it, or else stop using your camera as an underwater hammer).<br />
Making a hole too small is no way as bad as making it too big, as I found out while working with wood.&nbsp; You can always remove wood, but you can't replace it.
&nbsp;But making it right is better than making it wrong. :)
I&nbsp;was just thinking.... you might be able to use a regular camera shutter remote cable to activate the shutter. &nbsp; I havent seen one in years to know if that would work or not<br />
&nbsp;I don't&nbsp;believe&nbsp;my camera has any kind of remote-trigger&nbsp;function. I know that nikons do, though.
You'd have to seal it into the housing body (silicone would do this), but it ought to work just fine. Good idea.<br />
&nbsp;Wonderful idea and wonderfully documented.
The only problem I can see with this is that if you are counting on the flexing of the box to actuate the shutter, then taking it to depth (as in scuba diving) will be actuating the shutter constantly. I could see this working from most snorkeling depths though!<br />
Good point!<br />
&nbsp;Yeah, it's only&nbsp;supposed&nbsp;to go a couple feet deep :)
Nice Job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome i have to try this<br />

About This Instructable




Bio: Travelling since 2013. I'm currently in Australia for some reason. --- I’m Calvin Drews, and I love to learn, experiment, invent, create, repair, and ... More »
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