This is a pretty basic project but it does require quite a lot of effort and, depending how good you want it to look, time.

The great thing about this simple ring is that you don't even need to leave your house to find what you need for it!
I had quite a bit of fun making this ring and I am happy with the way it turned out. :)

If you find this guide useful, please vote for it in the jewelry contest! :D Thanks!

Step 1: What You Need

You only need one material for this project, the wire coat hanger. But you will require some tools:

- Hammer
- Anvil/ Axe/ second hammer/ steel plate (Anything solid and smooth that you can beat metal against without it deforming) [I used a large chisel]
- Fine sandpaper
- Grinding wheel (optional)
- Dremel tool (VERY helpful but not entirely necessary)
- Pliers (you will need long-nosed pliers for bending the ring)
- A hand-file (No necessary but also helpful)
- Sanding and polishing attachments if you are using a dremel tool
- A piece of paper/ measuring tape/ string

This ring can look very different depending on how much time and effort you are willing to put into it, as well as the tools you have available. Patience makes the biggest difference to how good it will look in the end!

Step 2: Clip the Hanger

Very easy, just open out (straighten) the wire of the coat hanger. Then measure about 7 cm of it (or just guess) and clip that off of the larger wire.

Once you have clipped this piece off, make sure it is absolutely straight. Use the pliers to correct any bends it may have.

Step 3: Beat It Flat!

This step is very important and is the most labour intensive, place one end of the wire onto something solid and smooth (preferably an anvil, but here I used a chisel). Then use a hammer to hit the wire into the other solid object and be forced to flare out to either side.

Choose one side of the wire to be "up" and the other "down". The side you strike with the hammer will look more lumpy and less even than the side against the flat solid object. The "down" side will look flatter and is better for the outside of the ring.

Try to do this uniformly and when you get to the middle, start at the other end of the wire. The width of the wire should be about 3-5 mm all the way from end to end. Your wire will likely bend while you are hitting it, and this must be immediately corrected with pliers, as shown in picture 4.

Expect this to take time and do not rush. Once yours looks relatively smooth, straight and even, it is ready for the next step.

Step 4: Sand and Clip to Size

Sand the piece of metal (only the edges, not the two sides) until it looks like the sides are straight and parallel. You may also use a grinding wheel or a dremel tool. Finer sanding can be done just before bending the ring to shape, so you do not need to worry about making it look too neat.

Once this is done, cut a little strip of paper (or use a measuring tape or string) and mark on it the circumference of your finger. Use pliers to clip the metal to this length.

Sand and smooth the edge you just cut so that it looks like the one you already sanded.

Step 5: Final Smoothing and Bending

This is where a dremel tool comes in handy, cleaning up the imperfections is very easy if you have one. Use the finest sandpaper you can find, to smooth the edges until they look perfect this time. Make sure both ends of the piece of metal look the same.

If you want to engrave your ring, now is the time to do that. I do not have the tools for that so I could not.

Rounded edges are safer than sharp ones, so ideally you want the cross-sectional shape to look like this:

Once this is achieved and your metal looks good, you can move on to bending. Only if you have VERY fine sandpaper and preferably a dremel to attach it to, should you sand the two faces of the metal. Otherwise leave them as they are if they look smooth already. Polish the metal well with a cloth or something similar. A rotary felt polisher for a dremel works well too.

Remember that one of the sides will look flatter and more smooth than the other, so make sure that this is the outside of the ring.

Press it onto something round of a similar diameter to your finger, to get a nice even bend.
This will not work the whole way round.

Use a cloth or an old shirt around your long-nosed pliers to make it harder for the teeth to scratch the metal. This is not necessary but it may help if you have spent a lot of time up to this point on polishing the metal.

Take your time to make it circular.

Once it looks like mine in picture 7, it is good enough to test-fit.

Try it on your finger and see if you like the fit of the size and shape of the ring, if it is too big, use a file to shorten the two sides a few millimetres and try again.

Step 6: Polish It!

Now that it is circular, give it one more good polish to remove any imperfections in the metal and allow it to shine! I used a felt attatchment on a dremel to achieve this.

Once you are happy with the result, test it again and enjoy your new ring! :D You could also try to engrave it, but I do not have the tools for that.

I had an idea about getting the straightened wire flat. Could you possibly, carefully set it on the train tracks and have the train flatten it way quicker and much easier? You could use some scotch tape to make sure it stays in place and doesn't fall off the tracks from the vibration that occurs from the approaching train. Obviously, be VERY careful when on or around train tracks, but I have always enjoyed flattening spare change on train tracks since I was a kid.
<p>My husband was a railroad man and says DON'T DO THIS. It may seen like an innocent act but it is a very dangerous thing to do. Sometimes even the smallest debris on the rail REALLY CAN DERAIL a train.</p><p><a href="http://shipinthenight.wordpress.com/2011/02/13/boy-derails-train-with-coin/" rel="nofollow">http://shipinthenight.wordpress.com/2011/02/13/boy...</a></p>
<p>Worth a try ;)</p>
I made one today!! Not out of a coat hanger but of some old metal rod layin in the yard. I made it shiny with the bench grinder then went over it a bit with a wire brush wheel thing and it's super smooth and some feeling on the outside. Inside is just as I found it
<p>Cool! ^^</p>
Great job! Definitely gunna do this!
<p>Nice project! And congratulations on being a finalist!!</p>
<p>I made it out of a nail. When I tested it the first time it got stuck so hard I started to plan how to saw it of. But soap and water worked well. Mine did not turned out so round as yours. Have to try agin. Great project.</p>
<p>Thank you! :) With a little practice, I am sure even a nail could be made to look nice and neat. ^^</p>
<p>Where is the stainless steel?</p>
<p>Nice results! Most bench mount vises have at least a small anvil area behind the gripping portion of the stationary jaw. A small to medium vise has a lot more uses than an anvil (unless you are Wylie E. Coyote) and isn't that expensive. Amazon has several available starting as low as $30, which should certainly stand up to jewelry making. Do yourself a favor and DON'T get a clamp on vise unless you are sure that is all you need or have space for. Get a bench vise and lag that puppy down to a sturdy table, or even to a two to three foot section of 2x8.</p><p>Where exactly does the &quot;Stainless Steel&quot; part come in? You must be using much nicer coat hangers than I do.</p>
<p>I didn't read through the whole thing, but would it help to use a smithing technique, and heat it up while flattening it out in the third and fifth steps?</p>
<p>That does work, but is not necessary for thin wire like that of a coat hanger. I wanted to avoid any metal blackening and do it in less time, so I opted to cold-forge it instead.</p>
<p>Temper* not &quot;Forge&quot; sorry!</p>
<p>This instructable actually has inspired me to do something completely unrelated to jewelry, and I thank you for that. Buying an anvil is expensive, so I had no idea what I was going to do. Thank you for the inspiration! On a second note, I still might actually experiment with the intended purpose of this one anyway, as I have some pretty neat ideas for it. Thanks again!</p>
<p>You don't need an anvil. You can pick up a 4&quot; x 4&quot; steel bench block on eBay for less than $20.</p>
<p>P.S. - Here's a link to an example:</p><p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vanadium-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Bench-Block-4-x4-x3-4-H-Jewelry-Metal-Smith-Jewelers-/390778393872</p>
<p>Cool man! Glad I could help! :D</p>
<p>Nice one! Thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>You are welcome!</p>
This is great and looks like fun; something I can do. Question: can I use Emory cloth at any of the sanding steps?
<p>I am not sure, I have never used any. But hopefully someone here can answer your question ;)</p>
<p>Thank you! Just what i was looking for today!! </p>
<p>You're welcome!</p>
<p>Please remember that solder is poisonous- it contains lead which is a neurotoxin. If you can obtain lead free solder, then ok</p>
<p>Lead is not necessarily a serious issue unless you ingest or inhale it and only then if in frequent and copious amounts. The majority of hobbyists use leaded solder with negligible ill effect.</p>
<p>At college, we had to scrub up after using it and were told not to use lead containing solder for jewelry</p>
<p>I agree it is not a good idea for jewelry. I also agree you should wash after handling it as you don't want to get any residue on any thing or in you mouth.</p><p>The reason the use of lead solder has been banned in electronics mass production is to keep it out of the ecosystem which is a very good thing. However the occasional use of small amounts of lead solder by hobbyists is insignificant in comparison. Making a few solder joints on a project board is not like eating lead paint. My friends and I have been using it for 50 years or so with no ill effects.</p><p>I know a number of people that have gone out of their way to stockpile lead solder because the lead free is so difficult to use. </p>
If you live in California, I can see this being an issue. When I was vacationing there, there were lead warning labels in the wineries because some cork capsules contain lead. Gave me a chuckle.
If you live in California, I can see this being an issue. When I was vacationing there, there were lead warning labels in the wineries because some cork capsules contain lead. Gave me a chuckle.
<p>Nice presentation....I use do these kind of rings some years now....(and gain some money from them) but iam going it farhter....With dremmel I draw some lines, or classic designs like celtic crosses etc.....they selled like fresh bread!!!</p>
<p>A good item to use to round it out would be one of those long round knife sharpeners. The style is very similar to what jewelers use. I would suggest wrapping a thin layer of cloth around the tool first so you don't get marks on the ring from the rough texture of the sharpener. I will definitely be trying this. I'm already thinking of what I might use to make an even wider ring...and try some designs on it.</p>
<p>Great! Please post pictures if you do! :) If you use a wider wire, you may want to heat the metal up before flattening it out.</p>
<p>After thought: I wish I had an anvil. I almost got one at an estate sale which was advertised to start at 9am. I traveled over an hour and was still there 20 minutes early. It was already sold by over an hour. Why do they bother setting a time? They should just say, &quot;hey, I'll open my door at 4 am if you knock!&quot;. I actually went there to buy a drill press AND the anvil...lost both...Probably to the same person.</p>
<p>I didn't think about that, but it makes perfect sense. Will absolutely use that tip. Thank you. I'm always looking for new things to create...woodworking, jewelry, stenciling (which at the moment I'm horrible with), etc. </p>
<p>Another warning, be careful shaking hands or take it off first.? ~(:-})={--- ]</p>
<p>Concerning safety, I have read that old (antique) hammers and other hardened surfaces are hardened to the point of being brittle. This does create a chipping hazard. Supposedly newer hardened surfaces are not so brittle and do not present a hazard. I think I would wear safety glasses anyway. Cool project.</p>
<p>I have a safety concern with striking tools. the chisel and hammer are both hardened steel and prone to chipping. You should never strike the face of a hammer against another hammer. At any rate wear some safety glasses when you are doing this. It only takes one time to injure your eye(s).</p>
<p>Didn't Mythbusters show that there was almost no risk when hitting hardened metal?</p>
I have personally seen chisels break and pieces fly off. We only have two eyes and bionic eyes are not available yet. It is up to you.<br>
<p>Yes I do agree here, knocking two tools like this hard together is dangerous, and I only did so because I do not have an anvil and the material I was trying to shape was weak enough to absorb the impact and change shape, but if you used harder wire it could become a safety hazard. I definitely recommend safety goggles when doing any work with tools like this,</p>
<p>You should be careful with a ring made from an unknown metal. There could be toxic metals that could leach out as you wear it. Also, if someone has a nickel allergy it could cause a rash if it is stainless steel.</p>
<p>This is important to consider and I do advise that you cover your ring in some form of polish once it is complete.</p>
Great instructions. I just made a (very) rough version of my own, and look forward to refining the process. The biggest problem I had was bending it evenly into a circle. Any specific tips on using pliers with precision?
<p>The best advice I can give anyone with anything, is this:</p><p> Practice. </p><p>I made 2 similar rings before this one, from regular wire though. They came out pretty well, but I knew I could do better if I spent more time on them. So I made this one, and I am very pleased with the result! :) As long as you have some decently thin long-nosed pliers (I used a Leatherman Kick) you can get it to look pretty circular. it is more important that it feels comfortable on your finger than being circular, though.</p>
<p>Awesome idea. Tested the metal hangers I have and they are galvanized steel. I'm wondering if they can be annealed so the hammering process would be easier. Has anyone tried annealing? It's advisable not to use jewelry quality tools on steel, it will cause a lot of damage. Using old hardware store type tools is advisable. All the hangers I have, have a black color, does anyone know if this is a coating that comes off with hammering? Or does it need to be sanded down with 4-ott steel wool before beginning this project? Hope to hear some answers.<br><br>If you don't like the open back, you can make it longer and have the backs overlap. I agree though an open back de-values the piece.<br><br>Has anyone added some elements to the top of the ring, like riveting?</p>
<p>VERY VERY COOL!!!!!!!! NICE JOB!!!!!!</p><p>Now a wire coat hanger isn't stainless steel so you may want to clear coat the metal to keep it from rusting.</p>
<p>I suppose you could just electroplate it with something that's more rust/corrosion resistant. Silver? Copper?</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I have always loved the feeling of finishing the construction of an object and if I don't have something I need or want I ... More »
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