Introduction: Make a Super Sized Jet Burner - Wok Cooking, Seafood Boils, Home Brewing

In this Instructable I show how to make a large burner. This burner can be used for heating a large pot of water or oil for big corn and seafood boils or as a super turkey fryer. Also home brewers will have use for larger burners like this. My use for it is actually for an outdoor wok station. I estimate its power output is 200,000 to 300,000 BTUs. There is some welding involved with this build but if you do not have a welder you could braze the pieces together. I built a 4 burner set up but you can reconfigure the pipe to make a smaller or larger burner. The only consideration is the propane regulator will need to be sized accordingly.

The Tools Used

  • Drillpress or drill
  • 1.3mm or #55 or 0.052" drill bit
  • Grinder
  • Welder
  • Common hand tools

Materials:

  • Four - 3" diameter schedule 40 steel pipe
  • Four - 1/2" x 6" Black Steel Pipe Nipples
  • Three - 1/2" Black Steel Pipe Elbows
  • One - 1/2" Black Steel Pipe Tee
  • Adjustable or 5 psi Propane Regulator
  • Various misc fittings (ball valve, quick connect, reducing bushing)
  • 20lbs Propane Tank

Important Warning: Do not attempt this Instructable if you do not have experience with propane and how it burns. If you are not comfortable around propane do not attempt this. When propane if used properly is a very safe fuel but bad things can still happen. This burner is very large and can damage you and property. You have been warned, I take no responsibility if something goes wrong.

Always wear safety equipment when lighting and working on the burner. At a minimum, safety glasses or face shield, cotton long sleeves or leather, do not wear synthetic materials as if they catch on fire they will melt to your body.

Step 1: Drill Orifice Holes

The middle of the 4 pipe nipples is where the orifice holes will be drilled. You can change the configuration but this is just the setup I went with. Drill one hole in the middle of each of the pipe nipples, I used a 1.3 mm drill bit, initially I used a 1/32" drill bit but it was tool small and I could not get the fuel air mixture correct for the burner to stay lit, using 3" schedule 40 as the burner tubes. Eventually I found 1.3 mm worked well for a 3" diameter burner tube. Go slow and use a drill press and cutting oil when drilling, these holes are small and it is easy to break the drill bit.

Step 2: Assemble the Burner Base

For the burner base, I went with an easy design by using 1/2" iron pipe fittings and made a square with 3 corners and tee fitting. The tee fitting is where the propane will feed into the burner. You could also use some 1/2" pipe and cut them at 45 degrees to make a square but I found with this I didn't need to do much cutting and fittings are cheap.

You will not be able to screw the whole assembly tight since it is a square, it is ok if the fit is loose. Make sure the holes that were drilled for the orifice are pointing upward.

Step 3: Welding the Base

Do not weld galvanized pipe, as the zinc fumes released are not good for you. I could not get regular black steel pipe so I stripped the galvanization off by soaking the pipe in a solution of vinegar over night before welding.

It's not possible to tighten the square with the fittings all in place so I welded all the joints to make them air tight. I used 3/32" 7018 welding rods. I think it would be possible to braze the joints too if you do not have access to a welder.

Step 4: Installing the Burner Tubes

The burner tubes are 3" diameter schedule 40 steel pipe. They are hefty and should not burn out.

Center the burner tubes over the orifice holes, you want the holes directly in the center of the tubes. Weld or braze the burner tubes in place. If you are brazing them in place it is probably is a good idea to grind out the 3" pipes with half moons so they fit on the 1/2" pipes. This will allow more surface area to be in contact for the brazing.

Step 5: Add Fittings to Connect to Propane Source

To connect the burner to a propane source, the 1/2" fitting will need to be coupled to fit your propane hose. I am using a quick connect rated for gas. In the picture the 1/2" tee is reduced to 1/4" by using a bushing then to the brass quick connect. Depending on what you get for a propane hose it may have different fittings, I like the quick connect as I have multiple propane appliances that I switch back and forth from.

Also make sure you install a ball valve between your propane source and the burner so you can adjust the size of the flame. The quick connect I purchased came with one already.

The high pressure regulator is adjustable up to 30 psi and with an optional pressure gauge.

Step 6: Testing

Before testing, I pressurized the burner and tested the joints for leaks with some soapy water. Fix any leaks as required.

Light the burner using a long bbq lighter or propane torch and do not stand over the burner. I started the test at 5 psi and turned the pressure to 10 psi and it seemed to burned very well. The flame was around 10" long. The size of the flame can be adjusted using the ball valve that turns the propane on and off.

Step 7: Intake and Choke

After experimenting with the burner, I notice that it works best when it is at medium to max power (valve fully open), but it was blowing out when the valve was turned down to get a smaller flame. I realized that the fuel air mixture was not right (too much air) when I wanted to have a small flame. So a simple solution was to restrict the intake, by using some metal tape,(you could also weld some sheet metal) and taping off part of the intake until it starts working well across the whole power range.

Step 8: Video of the Burner and Build Process

Here is a video of the building of the burner and the burner running.

Comments

author
dhaykus0418 (author)2016-03-25

It is advised to not weld galvanized pipe as the zinc fumes can make you very sick afterwards. Cool build otherwise.

author
MaxPower1977 (author)dhaykus04182016-03-26

Thanks. The galvanization was stripped first before welding using vinegar.

author
tytower (author)MaxPower19772016-07-08

Never tried that . Amazing stuff vinegar . Its the better choice for removing epoxy from brushes and hands too. Great window cleaner and it works wonders in spraying weeds on the farm .Just a little to each spray bottle of roundup for instance

author
mauricion4 (author)2016-06-06

I'm in Colombia and I would like to know that btu power needed to fry potatoes and if your burner would serve

author
MaxPower1977 (author)mauricion42016-07-02

This burner would be more than enough, but I would only use one burner. Then again it depends on how big your pot is.

author
stiltdancer (author)2016-04-02

So I made a simpler version that I am really happy with. I wanted to use materials that were easily available.

First, instead of drilling the jet hole in the 1/2" pipe, I used a 1/4" MIG tip with a 0.025" orifice. I drilled and tapped the 1/2" pipe with a 1/4-28 thread. And instead of the 3" tube (which is much harder to find and more expensive), I used a 1-1/2" x 5" black nipple and tack welded it to the 1/2" pipe. I got all of these at Home Depot. It is just a single burner.

It works wonderfully and can handle a wide amount of pressures. I have an adjustable regulator (0-10 psi), and it works at a low setting and wide open, both with a nice blue flame, and I don't have any trouble with the flame blowing itself out.

Thank you!!!

author
MaxPower1977 (author)stiltdancer2016-04-03

Awesome, glad to hear. The principle is the same for any size burner, I have since made a single burner and it works awesome.

author
incensedpanther (author)2016-03-19

So I'd like to use this concept to build a forge. Using fire brick I can create the forge, this would work to build the heat needed, but air intake is the problem. Any ideas?

author

I have an Instructable on how to make a propane burner specific for a forge but I'm not sure what you mean by air intake?

author

So the bottom of your burners here are open so that air is sucked in. Could you have closed the bottom off and still gotten as hot a flame.

author

Exactly, the intake is the open bottom, I should have mentioned that. Also you can close off the bottom to get the proper air fuel ratio, as propane only burns at a specific ratio. I did a trial and error to get it to work well. To change the amount of air mixing with the burner, I used aluminum tape to make the intake smaller, acting like a choke.

author

I have an Instructable on how to make a propane burner specific for a forge but I'm not sure what you mean by air intake?

author
stiltdancer (author)2016-03-24

I think you could make this simpler. There is a lot of gas going through the short 1/2" nipples through to the small orifices. Still make a square shape, but don't close the square (leave a gap)

I'm going to try this, but I will replace the Tee with a reducing coupler (1/2" to 1/4" FPT to FPT) use 3 6" nipples, 1 4" nipple, and 1 cap. Instead of welding, use teflon tape to connect everything.

author
MaxPower1977 (author)stiltdancer2016-03-25

I like that idea, sure does make it simpler, I was going for super rigid when I don't think it was necessary. The burner was too powerful so I have since changed the burner down to three using just 3 nipples, 2 end caps and a tee, no welding required. Thanks for the comment.

author
Tecwyn Twmffat (author)2016-03-19

Looks great. You could use stainless elbows instead of those black iron ones, which will give you better welds as the black iron ones are slightly

author
guillaume.sala.5 (author)2016-03-19

cool!

thanks for sharing !!

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Bio: http://www.youtube.com/c/AndrewWorkshop
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