I needed to be able to taper a few boards for a project I'm working on so I had to make a tapering jig. This one goes from straight to "are you sure you need that much?"
For this jig I had some 1x3 maple, a 1 1/2" hinge, 8 or 9 " of 1/4 " threaded rod, 4 nuts , 2 flat washers, 2 lock washers and 2 L brackets
I cut the lumber into 2 24" pieces, screwed the hinge to the one end and screwed a 2" foot to the other end. This is to push the work piece through with the jig. If you notice in pic 3, the bracket isn't sitting right. This is because I had to use the jig on my router table as well and had to turn the adjuster around to make it work. I think I am going to make one for my router table as well.
I had to drill out 1 hole in each bracket for the threaded rod and ground down the end by the small holes a little so it wouldn't stick out past the edge of the wood. Screw the L brackets to the tops of the boards in line with each other and leave the screws so the brackets are snug but will just turn when the nuts are tightened. Use a nut and lock washer on both sides of the bracket on the working side and tighten, just make sure the rod isn't sticking out past the edge of the board. Then put a nut and flat washer on each side of the bracket closest to the fence.
I marked both ends of the cut on a scrap piece and slid the fence over so I could line up the cut marks with one of the miter slots in the table. Keep your piece snug to the foot and adjust with the nuts on the fence side until your cut lines line up with the slot and finger tighten the nuts. Slide your fence over until the blade lines up with your first mark then push the piece through with the foot on the jig, keeping the jig against the fence.