Make a Wide Sturdy Handle With The Portuguese Sinnet

Step 2 Begin:

Start by folding the cord in half and running it through one of the 'D' rings.

Next take a strand and run it through the opposite 'D' ring (I went 'over' the ring as you can see). Now do the same with the other.

Comments

[Souban Tahir]

nice Its too Easy. . .

[copiesofcopies]

This instructable is almost exactly what I'm looking for to replace the busted top-carry handle on my backpack. Unfortunately, I don't have pre-installed D-rings on mine (the erstwhile handle was sewn into seams, which is part of why it broke). Do you have any advice for adding D-rings to a D-ringless bag?

[tw0nst3r]

I wouldn't use D-rings...split rings, used for keys and sold cheaply at hardware stores, are stronger, longer-lasting, and multifunctional if needed for something else in a pinch.

[Aud1073cH]

The D-rings here came with the bag, and look plenty strong. If you are making your own anchors, there are D-rings available that are stronger. Although split rings work OK for keys and light loads, you'd never use a split ring for rigging. the spring steel will flex, and pull the ring apart. A D-ring rated for the weight of your load is better. You can also use stainless steel shackles -They look cool too.

[tw0nst3r]

I've used split rings for some camp/backpacking rigging, but now that I think of it, it's always been for lighter loads. Thanks for the clarification!

[tw0nst3r]

Sorry to reply to my own post, but I've also had D-rings fall apart. Replacing them with split rings worked for those applications (duffle bags, tent guy stays, etc). This is why I posted what I did earlier. Again, thanks for the info!

[flio191]

Yeah, it just depends on the rating of those D-rings again, and what you're carrying, and directionally, which way the ring is being pulled because each one has their own specific usage, but for this case, i think D rings just look better because the flat side allows for that flatness of the straps to stay straight (and when straps stay straight like this, it usually lasts longer because there's equal tension on the straps across. I don't think it's that serious of a difference here though, just cause it really only matters when you're rigging large objects... like theater lamps and stuff. iunno, im talking too much.

[Dr_Romulus]

What about using a carbiner? I've seen a few smaller one with little snapdown "lock bars" to keep them from coming open...

[keng]

I would do it exactly as it is here. Grab some canvas; I like the "Duck Canvas" type (the think sturdy stuff). And grab some 'D' rings. Cut two strips of the canvas 2x as wide as the 'D' ring width (let's say it's 1 inch wide). So you'd cut it 2 inches wide. Make a fold from the long edge 0.5 inches in and then make another fold 0.5 inches in from the other side. That way you won't have any 'cut' sides exposed to fray. then put the 'D' ring in the middle and fold in half. Now just sew it on as it shows the the very last pic of the I'able.

[srilyk]

One thing that you can't see terribly well is that the piece has an "X" sewn into it - that adds strength. If you're using a sewing machine, you can go slowly (and use the little reverse button when you start out to stitch back over itself) and even "regular" needles should work. Or just get a thimble and go to it! (a penny taped over the pad of your thumb also works in a pinch)