Step 5: Pack It Up and Wait a Couple Months

This wood is wet, with about 14-15 % moisture content and needs to dry for at least a month probably two before I can finish it. So bag it up in a brown paper bag with its own shavings tightly packed all around it. After a month open the bag and let it breath for a weak and then close it back up for another month.

Stay tuned for part II
thanks for looking.
this is so cool! I want to try this but i,m a woman,doesn't matter i'm gonna try this!<br>
<p>May be 5 years since you posted this but how'd you get on? I'm a woman and I've just started a furniture design course at the age of 46. I'm loving working on the lathe and so proud of my first bowl made from mahogany and finished with bees-wax.</p>
Who cares if your a woman? None of us (hopefully) are sexist. As long as you have the tools, fire away!
I agree with SlicksQueegie it is extremely addictive but it can be done to a certain extent on a budget at first.<br> <br> I would recommend that look for a night class in wood turning or someone who has a wood lathe to try it out first, you do have to have a certain feel for the wood and not everyone does. This also means thee are unused wood lathes in garages everywhere so check Craigs list, gumtree, eBay etc.<br> <br> If you do show a talent for wood turning then it is worth spending the money on a chucking system like the G3 as a good chuck is both safe and expands your capability.<br> <br> I hope you do give this a go as it is a fantastic hobby.<br> <br>
There are a lot of women turners out there... But I will say it is a pretty expensive hobby. And extremely addicting...<br>
What type of lathe do you us
Nice work<br>
Thank you, but it's not finished yet... Hardest part yet to come...<br>
Yeah I agree, the hardest part is to come. Its very hard to open the bag up and find that the wood has cracked or warped real bad. I have had a few real nice pieces crack because i left a knot to near the edge or the wall were just a shade to thick at the bottom etc.&nbsp; But that also makes it fun to see if you can coax something&nbsp; beautiful out of a stinky old log.<br> <br> I have had poor success with wind fall logs as I am beginning to think they probably developed many stress fractures in the limbs that got broken in the storms that felled them.&nbsp; I hve had much better success with log that where felled by a chainsaw<br> <br> I must try that paper bag full of shavings trick, i use a cabinet in an earth floored shed to season my green wood pieces.<br> <br> Is a moisture meter a good investment as i was thinking of buying one, I just bought a G3 chuck myself they are now sensible money i got mine for &pound;89 delivered on eBay, they where silly money when I first got the lathe.<br> <br> You say you timber is about 14% moisture content is that not quite close to that of seasoned timber? I turned fresh sawn pine last year and it was so wet I had a pine fresh beard for about a week from all the resin I got splashed with.<br> <br> Good luck and keep on spinning.
A moisture meter is a good tool, I got 1 from ebay last week for $20. <br>The G3 is an OK chuck but I think the Supernova 2 is way better for just a few $$ more. The chuck key on the G3 can be a pain where as the super nova has a hex key that is easier to use.Any Nova jaws are compatible with either chucks as well.
I like the G3 chuck, you just have to keep it clean of fine dust that can build up in the teeth and index hole for the key. I've had way to many hex keys wring or ruin the head of the hex head screws and if that happen on the chuck its ruined, the G3 may be old school but its a good design and once indexed correctly in the hole you can apply way more force than i would dare risk on a hex key. The are a few knock off jaws that also fit nova chucks.
I'm pretty happy with my G3. I have the delta 46-460 midi lathe, so the supernova 2 is a bit overkill for me.
well, this post cursed me... it did in fact crack to baqdly to make a nice full sized bowl from... <br>
All part of the fun of turning, the wood tells you what its going to alow you yo make nit what you wanted to a make.<br> <br> Did it split at the knot that was on the rim of your bowl blank? &nbsp; I have found that for green wood bowls you have to cut back to good solid wood as they will be most stressed parts as it seasons. &nbsp;if you want to leave a knot or inclusion on the edge you need to fully season the log before you start to turn.<br> <br> All the cheery blanks I turned ended up&nbsp;splitting, i think it could be due to the wood being wind fall and not sawn down, &nbsp;When you think about the force that is required to&nbsp;rip&nbsp;a 10&quot; branch from a tree you would probably expect there to be&nbsp;allot&nbsp;of internal stress fractures in the&nbsp;fallen&nbsp;limb&nbsp;
In all honesty, I have yet to open a bag to a cracked piece... I have found them to be &quot;out of round&quot; quite a bit, but that is not a problem (that's why we turn them &quot;over-sized&quot;) They can be finish cut then sanded and finished.... <br> <br>This is the only way i have cut and finished &quot;wet&quot; logs(by stuffing them in bags to dry)... but the outcome thus far has been very solid, from a variety of different species of wood.... <br> <br>I will check this bowl tomorrow to see how it has progressed.... stay tuned.. <br>
Possibly, getting your blanks round is hard on your arms in my experience.<br><br>One minor addition is that its important you base thickness is the same as your wall thickness also you might want to mention about the possible problems of including the pith.
Thank you Pudtiny, Yeah, The Pith,<br>The pith is the very center of your log and holds lots and lots of moisture.. I will point out that my log was already naturally cracked lengthwise and i just helped it along. If you could remove the Pith from the entire log and then let dry, the log should not crack. The reason for the crack is un-equal drying. while the pith is holding lots and lots of water the outside is drying and drys &quot;inward&quot; causing the log to form the natural crack that I used to my advantage in this case... I have turned a few things with the pith still in there, but 90% of the time, The pith will eventually cause your project to crack..<br>He also pointed out the base thickness as compared to wall thickness should be the same or as close as possible. The reason is the same for the pith, you want the wood to dry nice and even,<br>Lets say your bottom is 1&quot; thick and your side wall is 3/4&quot;, the Bowl will dry unevenly and warp or even worse crack. But I stuff them in bags with their own shavings packed around them. This helps to dry the bowl equally as well...<br>That being said, nothing I just posted is an &quot;absolute&quot; (environmental conditions as well as the species of wood play huge factors in this)...
The wood under the bark is wetter and will shrink more as it dries causing cracks. When you cut the logs off the tree saw through the middle along the length of the log. This will relive the stress in the rings as it dries. <br>I prepare wood into bowl blanks and stack in the shed for a couple of years, label the wood with date and type of wood. Coat the wood with 'End check' to slow the drying as well.
The bark is the driest, the outer rings contain some water and the center (pith) hold most of the water in the log. The splits occur when the outer parts of the log drys at the same speed the center does. as the wood dries, it shrinks. so while the outer rings of the log are drying faster (or less water to dry) the center still holds much more water and hasn't shrunk near as much as the outside of the logs causing the outer rings to split. Not only that, but the ends dry much faster than the sides. This is why we need to seal the ends. (sealing the ends slows drying time even more) but forces it to dry much more evenly helping to prevent spits occurring. <br>You don't need specialized &quot;End check&quot; or Anchor seal for the ends, you can use cheap plain old latex paint (look in the paint dept bad bad color color mixes to get it ridiculously cheap) <br>Splitting the log lengthwise as you suggest will definitely help while the log dries, but removing the pith altogether and painting the ends will yield much better results. <br> <br>Removing the pith entirely removes a lot of the water from the log, decreasing drying time from the start <br>The pic depicts the best way I have found to prepare turning blanks for drying. Next, paint the ends, date and label them and store them in a dry place with little to no light but decent airflow. For every inch of thickness allow 1 year to dry, but even that depends on location and environmental conditions... <br> <br> <br>
Well put, if wood turning was an absolute it would be boring
Go here to see the final outcome of this bowl... It cracked so badly that by the time I got it cleaned up, it was small... and at the time i needed a small bowl for my birds to feed from while outside, so I made it into this <br>https://www.instructables.com/id/Log-into-a-bowl-part-2-then-into-a-bird-seed-dish/ <br> <br>Thanks for looking! <br>
Good recovery! <br>
Making a bowl is something I've always wanted to do, and I should soon have the space and the place for a wood lathe. I can't wait to get started on different shapes, and can't wait to see how you finish this one!
This one almost made it to the burn pile! It cracked a huge piece from the side wall of the bowl... I had to turn it to a little tiny bird feeder dish... you can find it here. <br>https://www.instructables.com/id/Log-into-a-bowl-part-2-then-into-a-bird-seed-dish/
When I turn bowls i take the wet wood &amp; immediately turn blanks (basically what you have for step 4/5 and then let it dry for a good 6 months or so before turning to final shape. This removes a lot of the mass that creates internal stresses that lead to cracking so the bowl shape will warp &amp; shift when drying instead of cracking (not an absolute, but I get pretty good results with it). The blanks should also dry faster (although I can't prove that) since you're removing all that material &amp; increasing the surface area. I like turning wet logs as they cut easier &amp; create less fine dust (i'm ok with getting spattered with moisture from the log since I use a face shield). If I don't turn the log immediately after getting it I wrap it in plastic to retain as much moisture as possible to help prevent checking (cracking) on the ends. That's just my preferred method, give it a try some time &amp; see what you think. Also, expanding jaws rock!

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Bio: I've built houses, decks, custom cabinets, furniture of all types. Ive done furniture repair and restoration, residential and commercial remodels, restaurant seating and tables ... More »
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