Make a good, cheap, upgradeable sheet plastic vacuum former

intro
 

introMake a good, cheap, upgradeable sheet plastic vacuum former

Tired of buying cheap plastic crap? Now you can make your own!

Or you can make nice and surprisingly sturdy plastic stuff in amazing shapes, amaze your friends with your technical prowess, and be the life of the party.

Vacuum forming is a technique for shaping sheet plastics into 3D shapes, which you can do at home, easily and cheaply. And it's fun. It's the easiest way to make an infinite variety of shapes in plastic, or to make molds for casting shapes in other materials, such as concrete.

The basic technique is to

0. clamp a sheet of plastic to a frame (such as a windowscreen-type aluminum frame)
1. heat it in an oven (such as your kitchen oven) until it's soft and rubbery
2. stretch it over a convex mold of an interesting shape (such as a life cast of your sweetie's face), and
3. suck the plastic inward onto that mold with a vacuum system (such as your household vacuum cleaner)

Once the plastic cools, you pull it off the mold and trim off the excess plastic, leaving a copy of whatever shape you sucked the plastic onto.

In this instructable, I'll show you how to make a cheap but good vacuum former, using mostly things you have around the house, or can buy very cheaply. The whole thing shouldn't cost more than about $30 to $50, maybe less depending on what shortcuts or substitutions you choose, and what materials and tools you have lying around. It also shouldn't or take more than an hour or two to make. (Plus a shopping trip to a home improvement store and an office supply store, and letting some silicone cure overnight; you can use epoxy if you're in a big hurry and want to do it all in an evening.)

Here's a movie of the vacuum former in action:



Relatively few people know about vacuum forming, or how easy it is. They're mostly radio control model builders---who use it for making thin plastic parts for airplanes, or bodies for cars or helicopters, or hulls for boats---or they're Star Wars fans who use it for making their own costume armor.

It's unfortunate that vacuum forming know-how is mostly limited to these little niches, because vacuum forming can be used for many purposes, artistic and practical. If you like making stuff in general, and especially if you like non-rectilinear stuff that doesn't look "homemade," you should know how to vacuum form.

You can use vacuum forming to make:

1. intermediate molds for modifying and combining sculptural shapes (this allows you to sculpt in whatever medium is easiest, and transfer the shapes to plastic, making one copy or many)
2. sturdy custom parts out of thick plastic to protect delicate machinery. (Using cheap homemade equipment, I've vacuum formed shells from 1/4" thick plastic that are sturdy enough to stand on.)
3. three-dimensional, internally-illuminated signs from scintillating textured plastic
4. flexible, cushiony custom liners from thermoformable foam
5. relief sculptures of various kinds
6. molds for casting chocolates, soaps, candles, or concrete relief sculptures
7. decorative architectural reliefs, or decorative shells that can be reinforced for structural purposes
8. stage props and costume parts in hard plastic or soft foam,
9. zillions of things you'll probably think of.

Industrially, vacuum forming is used for making all kinds of things, from disposable plastic cups and lids to sinks and hot tubs and McDonald's golden arches to full-sized boat hulls. (If you've never seen a 30-foot sheet of plastic sucked into a boat shape in a few seconds, trust me, it's pretty cool.)

For vacuum forming at home, the main limitation is usually space for the equipment---the size of your vacuum former is proportional to the size of plastic sheet you need to form. The $30-50 vacuum former described here doesn't take up much storage space at all, and can handle thin plastic sheets as big as will fit in your oven.

For larger stuff, you need a custom oven---not very difficult or expensive to make, but a little bigger all around than the plastic it will heat.

For thick plastics (more than about 3/32" or 1/8" thick, depending on several variables) you often need a stronger vacuum than a vacuum cleaner will provide, and again the cost and size of the equipment are roughly proportional to the size of plastic sheet you will be forming. The cost can be under $50 for a high-vacuum system for thick plastic sheets up to about 12" x 18", using a converted bike pump, or an electric air pump of some sort from a thrift store. (Such as a kitchen vacuum sealer, a tire inflator air compressor, or a "nebulizer" air pump.)

The vacuum former described here will work very well with an inexpensive high vacuum system, getting professional quality results for thick plastic, for under $100. If you want a standalone vacuum oven, so that you can use it somewhere besides your kitchen, you can make a medium-sized one (12 x 20 inches) for $30.

For now, let's make a good fast cheap vacuum former that you can do a lot with, using your kitchen oven and vacuum cleaner; it's mainly a board with a hole in it, which you can store on a shelf. You can soup it up later, if you want.


Make a good, cheap, upgradeable sheet plastic vacuum former

step 1Understand the design


step 2Gather materials and tools


step 3Make a platen


step 4Attach the floor flange to the platen board


step 5Make a matched pair of clamping frames


step 6Clamping plastic


step 7Make a removable weatherstrip gasket


step 8Adapt your vacuum cleaner hose to the nipple


step 9Tape the gasket to the platen


step 10Screw the nipple to the platen flange


step 11Tips on using your vacuum former


78 comments
1-50 of 78
Jun 27, 2009. 12:54 PMsnowpenguin says:
Can you use a toaster oven to do this, with smaller plastic sizes? I'm basing the whole project off of one mold, but I'm sure I'll use it a lot. I plan to use either soda bottle plastic of milk jug plastic, heated to stay flat. I would then either iron or heat-gun several sheets together for strength.
Great 'Ible, 4.5*
Jun 25, 2009. 1:02 AMpeytonjr says:
I have looked long and hard on information for this, and have found out a great deal of information - much of which was not within my original goals. However, there is still one variable that confounds me: thickness. I am going to use styrene sheets, which come in many many sizes, from 1/4" to .01" (somewhere around 1/64" i think). But which is the best for vacuum forming applications? I have seen .02 used in model building; would I be able to form it without having it rip or be mutilated?
Apr 21, 2009. 10:24 PMjon_murph says:
I can't believe people can't read, how hard is it to get that screen covering one large hole makes that large hole into many many small holes
Jun 25, 2009. 12:52 AMpeytonjr says:
wait, what?
Jan 14, 2008. 5:27 AMegadsman says:
if I made a mould of something what would be the best option to fill it with something that is cheap but solid and doesn't bend?
May 28, 2009. 11:52 PMgalaxyman7 says:
try looking at my instructable on sulpho plastic. It's a metallic plastic that is very strong and cheap.
May 28, 2009. 8:23 PMskottc says:
Apr 29, 2009. 9:11 PMfeyr says:
I am looking into making this but I want to use my 5hp 12 gallon shopvac that is in the garage since I only have an upright vacuum for the house.

It has a large 2.5" hose on it and I was wondering what size I should drill my hole into the platen? Based off your statement of using a larger hole than your hose I was thinking of a 3" hole. Bringing some pipe down and using one of those rubber reducers with hose clamps on it to create the seal between the two parts.

Also on a vacuum like that how thick do you think I can work with and would it be too powerful for thinner pieces?

Thanks for this awesome writeup!
I am looking into using 1/16th, 1/4 or possibly 3/16 thick acrylic sheets to make an automotive headlight trim.
Mar 10, 2009. 10:36 PMMa Barley says:
What about using the plastic sheets that you can make from opening up plastic bags and ironing them together between sheets of
Dec 8, 2008. 7:34 PMlsloan says:
The girl... How much for the girl?

LOL ;)
Sep 12, 2008. 9:03 AMpaintphone says:
Where do u but your plastic sheet for this project ? i cant find them anywhere, is there a website thats you can order them from ?
Jul 28, 2008. 3:06 PMKlowd_13 says:
THANK YOU!!! I was looking for a compact Vacuum Forming Machine and this is it!

Cheers,
-John-
Jun 30, 2008. 5:04 PMmacrumpton says:
Thanks for a very simple and inspiring instructable. It really removes all the fear and mystery from what is usually a opaque industrial process. Also special kudos for finding a way to include semi gratuitous vacu-forming babes! That is a step that too many instructables are missing.
Apr 9, 2008. 11:59 AMdrhoff says:
Great instructable! I was wondering if you could tell me where I can get more information on working with thicker parts. I'm trying to use about .125 in plastic and I'm having trouble keeping it soft long enough for it to fully conform to my mold. I tried to use a heat gun while it's on the mold, to keep it soft but it only helped a little. Also, I'm having issues with bubbles forming inside the plastic. Any tips?
Jun 10, 2008. 4:52 PMstripmind says:
some plastics retain moisture which can cause the bubbling to happen. They need to be dried first in the oven at lower temperatures.

this .pdf has more info on it:

http://support.knowlton.ohio-state.edu/files/FormechVacuumGuide.pdf
Mar 5, 2008. 9:27 AMn0ukf says:
It appears from looking at your face mold that you, like I, have facial hair (beyond just eyebrows and lashes). How do you mold yourself with that, without having to shave first?
May 10, 2008. 7:07 PMGnome says:
I saw a video about it: You have to use "cholesterol hair conditioner" by applying it to the hair, eyebrows, beard, etc. to help with the release.
Apr 21, 2008. 9:57 PMshooby says:
My high school workshop had a vacuum former, it was awesome. This is one of the best instructables I've encountered.

I used a lot of acrylic, especially transparent, for architectural models, and had heard that putting it in the oven can produce toxic fumes. So two questions:

What plastics have you used, and at what recommended temperatures?
Were you using a convection oven with an exhaust fan, or a regular type oven?

I'm amazed at how inexpensively this can be done, will give it a try.
Mar 31, 2008. 9:47 PMJorad says:
My friend this is going to be one of the most useful things I can possibly make! I appreciate the time and effort you put into this! a few questions if you don't mind though. I would also use this to vacuform a case for a N64 mod so that I can make a portable N64. Anyway, I was wondering how this does with thicker plastic, the kind you'd expect an N64 or other gaming system to have. I know the detail will be somewhat diminished but I am making this out of very simple lines.
Jan 10, 2008. 8:08 PMmrplastic says:
Hi,

I am wondering if i can use mirrored acrylic on vacuum forming? will the mirror finish withstand the stretching during the forming stage?

Thanks in advance.
Nov 7, 2007. 2:34 PMursan says:
This is a rather exciting prospect for me. I'm an automotive geek type & the thought of making 3D objects is the answer to many pondering nights.

I am in possession of a car that is rather uncommon & while parts are available, they are quite expensive. What I've been trying to do is replace the factory "composite" headlamps with something more "off the shelf" & keep the factory lamps (lenses really) put away for safe keeping.

So I wanted to recreate the lenses in polycarbonate (or what ever you recommend) The just need to be a close to crystal clear as I can get it. I remember reading about the moisture issue with polycarbonate. My issue is creating the mold proof?
I've asked a few people & their suggestion ranges from plaster of paris with a layer of Bond-o over it to make it smooth to using concrete. My lenses are glass, and measure 7x14" or so and is a rectangle with 90° corners.

My questions:
I was originally going for 1/4" PC but is that too thick?

Can I use plaster of paris as a mold die? Would I need a release agent?

For an oven, can a gas oven be used? Can't that also promote water bubbles in the media?

I've heard of MR10 Lexan (r) If I used that, would I destroy the scratch resistant properties while molding?

Thanks so much in advance.
Nov 12, 2007. 8:48 AMursan says:
Actually I was talking about a release agent for the plaster while making a mold of the original headlamp. I don't want the plaster to adhere permanently to inside of the glass lens. & if it shrinks and it sticks, wouldn't it crack or split in the process?
Dec 9, 2007. 6:24 AMslim_jim says:
silicone spray is a good mold release--not that this project has anything to do with molding.
Nov 12, 2007. 11:15 AMursan says:
My plan is to use the concave (inside) of the original lens to create a mold by pouring in plaster (or something. After that sets I'd smooth it out & use the plaster cast as a negative mold & vacuum molding on top of that. My concern, as I mentioned, is that the plaster will stick to the inside of the glass lens. The eventual outcome of the lens that I want is to be smooth inside and out as I'll be using it to cover another headlamp to be incorporated inside the old lamp addembly. In other words, what I'm making is a cover, not a lens.

May 19, 2008. 6:49 AMservant74 says:
I was wondering if using something comparitavely soft and meltable, like old plasting galon milk jug, and use the origional part as the mold, just to make a 'negative master'. Then pour plaster of paris (or similar) into it to make a 'positive mold'. Now use that positive plaster mold to form the polycarbonate.

The idea is to reduce the posibility of damage to the orig high priced lens.

Just a thought.
Nov 15, 2007. 9:28 PMislawpalitaw says:
hi drcrash i was just wondering how i could vacuumform a 3D sculpture?
thanks in advance!
Dec 9, 2007. 6:21 AMslim_jim says:
Dr. Crash:

Now you know why smart people don't put stuff on the internet. Because then thousands of witless people bug them over and over, asking dumb questions instead of thinking for themselves. I took all the stuff I created off my web site because I just get tired of answering stupid questions.

Nice project, however. One of the few useful idea on this site. Good job.
Dec 5, 2007. 2:30 PMKomissar says:
Thanks drcrash for this really informative instructable. It actually helped me resolve how I could make a series of elliptical canopies. However, I've run into a snag. Could you suggest how I could accomplish this? I have a 1/16" thick 1.5" x 20" piece of alum. with x6 elliptical cutouts, evenly spaced. I put the this panel on a spacer frame box which is 5/8" thick. I just want to form elliptical "bubbles" without flat bottoms. I can't turn the vacuum off fast enough to prevent them from turning into elliptical cylinders. Do you have any suggestions. Much appreciated.
Nov 30, 2007. 10:27 AMrockinh says:
Are there types of plastic that you shouldn't use? Toxic fumes etc.
Nov 27, 2007. 2:44 PMevilution says:
Have you ever used Copolyester?
Apparently it is one of the hardest plastics around at the moment but is very easy to thermoform.
Nov 25, 2007. 4:18 PMShampooRobot says:
im thinking about doing this for a helmet i made using that master chief paper helmet instructable by cutting the helmet (which is still paper) down the middle use plaster paris on it and sand it and put it on the former...the helmet has slight under cuts, any way to make the plastic form to these?
Nov 25, 2007. 4:47 PMShampooRobot says:
also does it smell bad when you melt the plastic in the oven?
Oct 24, 2007. 1:13 PMscoopy says:
I hope the addition of the cross section shows what I am trying to achieve. The scoop is across the full width at AA, the lip of the scoop is 2" deep which forms the 2" cavity, this scoop is closed at the sides and is convexed.
Your thinking that it is duable encourages me, I was thinking that the scoop might create difficulty.
What is the best position to mount the mold and would I need to drill any holes in the bottom of the scoop to enable the air to escape which I presume will allow the plastic to form the full depth of the scoop.

For your info I am on U/K time zone, I hope you are well clear of the fires we are seeing on our news.
C:\Documents and Settings\User-1\My Documents\My Pictures\scoop.bmp
Oct 23, 2007. 3:49 PMscoopy says:
I need advice on how best to form the attached scoop.
In the attached image, I have tried to show that the scoop is curved at AA and gradually smoothes out to BB and being flat at CC.
At AA there is a scoop with curved corners which is aprox 1 1/2" to 2" deep and X 2" deep.
The overall length is 18" X 16" wide.
I want to use 1/16" thickness plastic but have no idea if the mold should be male or female or how best to mount it on the platen.
The real question is. Can it be made with such a deep scoop?

I enjoyed reading your tutorial on how to make a cheap former and would like to have a go. Please advise

Thanks.
C:\Documents and Settings\User-1\My Documents\My Pictures\scoop.bmp
Oct 17, 2007. 5:28 PMkeenan says:
Do you have any tips about timing? Specifically 1/32" clear styrene? my piece is 24" long, 3" at the widest and 3.5" at the deepest tapering at the ends.
Oct 17, 2007. 5:31 PMkeenan says:
sorry I meant oven timing duh
Oct 9, 2007. 7:10 AMTechDante says:
i've done this sort of thing but was just wondering what sort of plastic you were using and how long was it in the oven
Oct 10, 2007. 4:11 PMTechDante says:
excelent, just what i need thanks. now just have to get myself the parts.
Oct 5, 2007. 10:28 PMMr. TiKi says:
Sorry if you've answered this already , I skimmed through your instructable. How would someone get the lettering off the for sale signs??
Oct 10, 2007. 10:35 AMMr. TiKi says:
Thanks for the reply . Your instructable is great and very informative.
1-50 of 78

Related