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Step 6Attach line to bottom block
This part takes a bit of fiddling. Read through the entire step and look at the pictures before starting so you understand how the pieces relate to one another.
Stand the frame upside down, so you can see the hole in the bottom. Place a non-magnetic spacer (corner of a book, foam packing material) on top of the disc magnet and place the cube magnet on top of the spacer. The spacer will hold the cube away from the disc while you are working on the bottom fastener.
The closer the magnets are, the stronger the attraction will be, but too close and it becomes less obvious that the cube is floating in space. A separation of about 3/4" seems to work well. You're going to need some slack to work with when tying the knot for the bottom fastener, so the spacer should be about 1/4" thicker than the desired separation when finished.
Thread the line upwards from the cube through the hole in the block on top. Pull the line upwards to remove slack, then tie an overhand knot close to the upper surface of the block, about 1/4" from where the line disappears into the small hole.
It's better to tie the knot too far from the hole than too close. If you're too far, you can tie one closer and trim the far one(s) off. If you're too close, you'll have to remove the knot so the line will fit into the hole along with the rivet.
Partially insert the rivet into the hole, leaving the head protruding enough so that the knot can pass underneath to be hidden from view. Grasp the line on the side with the cube and pull the knot down until it jams between the rivet and the rivet's hole. Remove the spacer and check the distance. Adjust spacing to your preference.
Pull the knot out from underneath the head of the rivet, trim the excess line close to the knot, and use a flame to melt the end (as with the knot on the clevis pin). Make sure the rivet hides the line from view, then push it down until the head is below the surface of the wood. A paper clip comes in handy if you need to push the rivet back out.
Remove the spacer and stand the frame upright.
Stand the frame upside down, so you can see the hole in the bottom. Place a non-magnetic spacer (corner of a book, foam packing material) on top of the disc magnet and place the cube magnet on top of the spacer. The spacer will hold the cube away from the disc while you are working on the bottom fastener.
The closer the magnets are, the stronger the attraction will be, but too close and it becomes less obvious that the cube is floating in space. A separation of about 3/4" seems to work well. You're going to need some slack to work with when tying the knot for the bottom fastener, so the spacer should be about 1/4" thicker than the desired separation when finished.
Thread the line upwards from the cube through the hole in the block on top. Pull the line upwards to remove slack, then tie an overhand knot close to the upper surface of the block, about 1/4" from where the line disappears into the small hole.
It's better to tie the knot too far from the hole than too close. If you're too far, you can tie one closer and trim the far one(s) off. If you're too close, you'll have to remove the knot so the line will fit into the hole along with the rivet.
Partially insert the rivet into the hole, leaving the head protruding enough so that the knot can pass underneath to be hidden from view. Grasp the line on the side with the cube and pull the knot down until it jams between the rivet and the rivet's hole. Remove the spacer and check the distance. Adjust spacing to your preference.
Pull the knot out from underneath the head of the rivet, trim the excess line close to the knot, and use a flame to melt the end (as with the knot on the clevis pin). Make sure the rivet hides the line from view, then push it down until the head is below the surface of the wood. A paper clip comes in handy if you need to push the rivet back out.
Remove the spacer and stand the frame upright.
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