Step 2Parts and Tools
ICs:
- IC1 - LM567C tone decoder $1.80 at Digikey or 3/$1.00 at Electronic Goldmine
- IC2 - L7805T voltage regulator $.49 at Digikey or $.35 at Electronic Goldmine
- R1 - 470 Ohm
- R2 - 47 Ohm (read notes at end of step 8; you might prefer to just use a bus wire)
- R3 - 47 Ohm (if you use a diode other than green with 2.2v drop, you might need to change this; probably not critical)
- C1 - 0.1uf
- C2 - 0.005uf
- C3 - 0.02uf
- C4 - 0.01uf
- C5 - 1uf
- C6 - 100uf
- C7 - 10uf
Diodes:
- D1 - 1N4004 (any small-signal diode should be fine here)
- LED1 - standard 3mm green, 20mA with 2.2v drop
- 3 x 3.5mm stereo jack (if you get different jacks, the leads may not align with the traces on the board; check the datasheets)
- SW1 - SPST switch
- SW2 - SPDT switch
- 9V Battery connector (see note)
- 9V Battery
- PCB or protoboard
- Wire (around 24-28 gauge)
- Altoids mint tin
- Various nuts, bolts, and washers.
Glasses:
- Safety glasses
- LEDs, color and number of your choosing
- Resistors, dependent upon your choice of LEDs
- Either a headphone cable or an audio patch cable
Necessary:
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Wire cutters
- Drill (preferably drill press, but hand drill will do)
- Screwdrivers, etc.
- Epoxy (get the two hour stuff; 5 minute sets too fast to be useful)
- Super glue (for when epoxy just doesn't cut it)
- Electrical tape
- Sandpaper
- Rubbing alcohol
- Flux
- Dremel
- Belt sander
- Needle files
- Center Punch
- Helping Hands or vise
- Magnifying glass
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