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Step 3Create the PCB
Create the PCB using whichever method you prefer. I used the toner transfer method. The edges of the PCB must be curved to fit into the Altoids tin. If you're using the toner transfer method, transfer the toner to the board and etch, then use sandpaper or a belt sander to remove the excess PCB outside the curves. I waited until after etching to sand for ease of aligning the silkscreen; as long as the audio jacks you're using don't have metal cases that are connected to ground, the copper outline won't hurt anything.
I've included the bottom trace layer as well as a component layout "silkscreen" layer. After etching, I go back and apply the silkscreen. Makes placing the parts so much easier, plus you've got a nifty battery polarity indicator (admittedly only useful if you use my method of battery connection).
The layouts are in GIF format, 600dpi instead of the standard 300dpi. Make sure you download the image in its original size. When you print, the boards should end up 3.5'" x 2.2". The image with both boards should be printed as 7.5" x 2.2". Optionally, I've included pdf files with the images formatted correctly for standard 8.5" x 11" paper. Just open and print. Be sure you don't have any headers, footers, etc. added in, or the boards won't be the right size. Get out the ruler and check the output, just to be sure.
The masks I've uploaded have been altered slightly based on my results. The battery pads are larger, as are the pads for the jacks. The power lines have been made thicker, as well. And the text is slightly larger.
If I remember correctly, I used a #8 drill bit for all of the holes except the power and jacks. The jacks are thin, elongated leads, so I drilled two holes side by side, and I did something similar with the power pads. I don't remember the bit size I used for those, however.
If you decide to go a similar route to my own for battery connections, you'll want solder pads on the top side as well for reinforcement. I didn't feel like making a toner mask just for two pads, so I just drew them on with a Sharpie permanent marker. Draw them roughly the same size as the bottom side pads. Let the ink dry for a few minutes, then go over it again. What the hell, go over it again once more for good luck.
Note: there is one area that might give you a little trouble, depending on your printer and the method you use. One of the pads on the Audiostrobe output jack is fairly close to the ground lead. I don't ever have problems with bridging; my issues are always with overetching/opens, so I doubt it'll be a problem. Just check it before you etch to make sure it's not bridging. There's a note on the Traces gif showing you where I'm talking about. You'll also want to pay attention to the pads on the 7805.
I've included the bottom trace layer as well as a component layout "silkscreen" layer. After etching, I go back and apply the silkscreen. Makes placing the parts so much easier, plus you've got a nifty battery polarity indicator (admittedly only useful if you use my method of battery connection).
The layouts are in GIF format, 600dpi instead of the standard 300dpi. Make sure you download the image in its original size. When you print, the boards should end up 3.5'" x 2.2". The image with both boards should be printed as 7.5" x 2.2". Optionally, I've included pdf files with the images formatted correctly for standard 8.5" x 11" paper. Just open and print. Be sure you don't have any headers, footers, etc. added in, or the boards won't be the right size. Get out the ruler and check the output, just to be sure.
The masks I've uploaded have been altered slightly based on my results. The battery pads are larger, as are the pads for the jacks. The power lines have been made thicker, as well. And the text is slightly larger.
If I remember correctly, I used a #8 drill bit for all of the holes except the power and jacks. The jacks are thin, elongated leads, so I drilled two holes side by side, and I did something similar with the power pads. I don't remember the bit size I used for those, however.
If you decide to go a similar route to my own for battery connections, you'll want solder pads on the top side as well for reinforcement. I didn't feel like making a toner mask just for two pads, so I just drew them on with a Sharpie permanent marker. Draw them roughly the same size as the bottom side pads. Let the ink dry for a few minutes, then go over it again. What the hell, go over it again once more for good luck.
Note: there is one area that might give you a little trouble, depending on your printer and the method you use. One of the pads on the Audiostrobe output jack is fairly close to the ground lead. I don't ever have problems with bridging; my issues are always with overetching/opens, so I doubt it'll be a problem. Just check it before you etch to make sure it's not bridging. There's a note on the Traces gif showing you where I'm talking about. You'll also want to pay attention to the pads on the 7805.
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