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Step 6Glue by numbers
Remember paint-by-numbers? It's just like that except with glass and glue.
My strategy is to pick a color to start with, and finish that color before I move on to the next one. If you are doing a much bigger mosaic (like a 16"x20" omg) you might want to go by sections instead.
Keep in mind that for an experienced mosaicker like me, it can still take like 6-8 hours to do a small mosaic portrait because of all the detail involved. Plan accordingly. I usually will set up in front of the TV with all my stuff on a tray or table and the mosaic on my lap, or on a desk or something. If you need to take breaks, do so. Just store your mosaic in a safe, flat place.
For your glue, you'll want a paste type glue, not a gel or silicone. I like omni-gel because it dries a little slow, so you have time to change your mind or move pieces around a little, and it drys clear and is waterproof. Weldbond is ok, but it dries a little quicker and the bottle seems constantly clogged. Even though it dries quicker, it takes longer to set and turn clear. But, it IS easier to find at the store. *sigh* Pick your fave glue and go for it. If you are unsure, do an experiment with scrap first.
I basically start in a corner or edge and work inward. I put a little pile of glue on a paper towel or aluminum foil and dab each piece in as I go.
****Another way to do it, which I have used and seen used successfully but find frustrating if something goes wrong, is to lay out all your pieces without gluing them down, then put a piece of contact paper on the top so that all the pieces stick to it. Put something flat and solid like a piece of glass or a book on top of the contact paper and use it to flip the whole thing upside down, then remove the frame and paint the glue on in a thin layer with a paintbrush. Then fit the glue-laden frame back onto the pieces and flip it back over. Pat and rub the contact paper so that the pieces are good and stuck, then wait for it to dry and peel the contact paper off.
The problem with that method is the pieces SHIFT BADLY for a couple reasons. The first usually being that it's practically impossible to get the contact paper down without them moving a little, and the second being that the contact paper is not sticky enough to hold the smallest of pieces, and they dislodge or fall off when flipped. So, it's an option, but I don't think it's the best option. Feel free to give it a shot if you want, I have seen people do it successfully, but there's a lot more after-the-fact fixing involved than I would like. ****
Remember to leave room in between each piece if you are planning on grouting. Techincally you don't have to grout it for it to be a mosaic, but I find that it gives the portrait a much more finished, smooth look, more professional.
Make sure that your mosaic dries well before you grout it. At least a day.
My strategy is to pick a color to start with, and finish that color before I move on to the next one. If you are doing a much bigger mosaic (like a 16"x20" omg) you might want to go by sections instead.
Keep in mind that for an experienced mosaicker like me, it can still take like 6-8 hours to do a small mosaic portrait because of all the detail involved. Plan accordingly. I usually will set up in front of the TV with all my stuff on a tray or table and the mosaic on my lap, or on a desk or something. If you need to take breaks, do so. Just store your mosaic in a safe, flat place.
For your glue, you'll want a paste type glue, not a gel or silicone. I like omni-gel because it dries a little slow, so you have time to change your mind or move pieces around a little, and it drys clear and is waterproof. Weldbond is ok, but it dries a little quicker and the bottle seems constantly clogged. Even though it dries quicker, it takes longer to set and turn clear. But, it IS easier to find at the store. *sigh* Pick your fave glue and go for it. If you are unsure, do an experiment with scrap first.
I basically start in a corner or edge and work inward. I put a little pile of glue on a paper towel or aluminum foil and dab each piece in as I go.
****Another way to do it, which I have used and seen used successfully but find frustrating if something goes wrong, is to lay out all your pieces without gluing them down, then put a piece of contact paper on the top so that all the pieces stick to it. Put something flat and solid like a piece of glass or a book on top of the contact paper and use it to flip the whole thing upside down, then remove the frame and paint the glue on in a thin layer with a paintbrush. Then fit the glue-laden frame back onto the pieces and flip it back over. Pat and rub the contact paper so that the pieces are good and stuck, then wait for it to dry and peel the contact paper off.
The problem with that method is the pieces SHIFT BADLY for a couple reasons. The first usually being that it's practically impossible to get the contact paper down without them moving a little, and the second being that the contact paper is not sticky enough to hold the smallest of pieces, and they dislodge or fall off when flipped. So, it's an option, but I don't think it's the best option. Feel free to give it a shot if you want, I have seen people do it successfully, but there's a lot more after-the-fact fixing involved than I would like. ****
Remember to leave room in between each piece if you are planning on grouting. Techincally you don't have to grout it for it to be a mosaic, but I find that it gives the portrait a much more finished, smooth look, more professional.
Make sure that your mosaic dries well before you grout it. At least a day.
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