Step 9: Make the circuit

-Prepare the xbee breakout board (solder on the 2 rows of male headers and 2 rows of 2mm xbee female headers)

-Insert the xbee onto it.

-I'm using a servo motor shield from seeed studios, but I am sort of just using it as a perf board, but a convenient one because all the ground and power pins to my servo motor are already jumped together, with a screw terminal for the battery input. And ignore those wires hanging off the board - I had prefiously soldered on female header pins for another use of the board, so I removed them so I could use this here. I eventually clipped them off but you can see them in the pics.

-So if you have the servo shield, solder on the screw terminal; two rows of headers  where the 6V and GND from the battery are connected. Solder on male headers so it will mount in your seeeduino (or arduino) mega. I'm using the seeeduino again because i had it around, and because it is smaller so it fits better into the skin tube  (the protective outer layer).
Note: an arduino mega is necessary not because of the numbers of outputs but because the flash memory space in the arduino UNO is not large enough. 

-jump xbee pin 1 (3.3Vin) to Arduino 3.3V pin (see red wire)
-jump xbee tx (pin 2) to Arduino RX (pin1) (see yellow wire)
-jump xbee ground (pin 10) to arduino gnd (see black wire)
-jump power from the 6V battery input to the Arduino VIN pin (green wire)

-Solder on wires from all the digital output pins (as many servos as you are using). 
-place on the servo connectors (Red, black, white here) and insert the dOUT wires from arduino into the servo cables (white signal wire).
NOTE: if Arduino is to be housed in the frotnt of the snake, connect the pins low to high from arduino to the servos that are most close to the head to far away) . in other words: the first servo (as in when the snake is moving ahead, the servo at the HEAD) should be digital pin 2, and the tail end servo shoudl be digital pin 11. 

-Screw in wires to the screw terminals to attach to 6V and GROUND from your batteries. 

-I clipped the extra metal off (you shouldn't have to do this if you are starting from a clean board, not one with female header pins soldered in)

<p>This looks amazing, really great work..</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.rachelallan.com/prom-dresses/rachel-allan/2" rel="nofollow">Best prom gowns </a></strong></p>
<p>I don't care how creepy your robot it, I love it!</p>
<p>holy crap! amazing!!!!</p>
<p>great post!</p>
<p>I'd like to see this with a camouflaged skin and head </p>
hmmm creepy looks like a hydrobot from Terminator http://terminator.wikia.com/wiki/Hydrobot this is how it begins people!
for any mobile robot power conservation is essential. if i were going to build a a water mobile robot i would probably use a water pump or a propeller type motor. and put it in a pvc pipe.
all you need now is the ability to dive... perhaps if you use gravity to cause the swimming motion my diving and surfacing you could also add longevity to the swim time. <br> <br>just a thought good job keep up the good work. <br> <br>
A ballast system of some sort... Maybe a remotely controlled intake connected to a tube that you can remotely open the front, and the rear port of the tube is an outlet only valve. Open the intake to let in water and make the device heavier so that it descends. <br> <br>Use an electrical current to evaporate the water in it to &quot;add&quot; ballast. Something to test in a pool to see battery drain, I'm not sure how long batteries would hold up to it. Sounds like a decent theory to me. <br> <br>PS. I mentioned a tube because i think flooding the device would be entirely too risky for the amount of money that would go into it.
I think if you added a tank (or multiple outlet tubes) to the pump, then another pump to empty that tank/tubes you could use the first to take on water and sink and the other to empty the tank or both as forward propulsion but all of this would greatly reduce the longevity but for some applications like marine life monitoring that would probably be acceptable. <br>using tubes means this could still be placed on the outside in a streamlined manour <br>But other than that protei and your sneel is awsome keep them coming
they stopped making the red brackets for anyone know if this is a good alternative? http://www.engagerc.com/servlet/the-2619/2-dsh-DOF-pan-and-tilt/Detail
electronics are around 400$
tell me the overall price.... <br>
wow, that's great!!
is it possible to make it go under the water?
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That's pretty cool!<br> <br> My immediate thought of wondering&nbsp; is if I&nbsp;make a dozen or so of these,add a tail fin and&nbsp;harness them all up - would they pull my&nbsp;raft around the lake like a Medusa hair driven water sled....hmmm, &nbsp;have to ponder that some more..
It feast my eyes.How do you prevent the ingress of water?
....Not to mention the militaristic applications for this &quot;Robo Snake&quot;.
If you want to detect people falling in pools then an alarm detecting waves might be a lot simpler and more effective. Love the snake as a toy though, with possible applications where a propellor might get caught in weed.
Wonderful device, but please explain the pump. Why? When?
Just one more Idea that works for me, Try to find some DIP IT , A Liquid Plastic that Air Drys for a Tight, Water proof Covering, That can be Removed Cleanly when needed. Also, Liquid Tape for those Mother boards and connectors. When done you'll save yourself about 4 to 12 OZ, on overall weight. <br>That's all, Like I said before, Your's is a great snake, Keep on Learning! <br>P/S, Remember this; &quot; Good, Better, Best, Never let them rest, until your Good is Better &amp; your Better is Best !
F.Y.I., Sea Grease is fine, on Big Boats, But not small models, Try Mixing the best of two worlds by Combining 1/4 cup Sea Grease and 2 Liquid Oz. of Slick 50 Motor oil, Put in a mini blender, set to combine and walk away for about 5 min. when time is up, it will be warm, cool it down to room temp and apply to all joints that move. <br>I did this on some of my Boats and Subs and got around an 8% better RPM on my engines. It wasn't bothered by the Water temp at all.
Have you considered adding Solar cells and wireless color mini cameras to the snake? Allowing power to be provided from the solar cells. the same for Neon Wire, for those night time bits of fun. Another power type could be&quot; 3V. Lithium battery's &quot;, Stacked in groups of 4, and Charged by Solar Cells, When resting. <br>Very cool snake.
Yes!!! <br> <br> <br>This awesome.
how much did it cost you? <br>
Nice beast!
this looks great! I'd love to see it in action!
OK, watch for a sudden up-tick in Loch Ness monster-like sightings!
Congrats on publishing a conceptual foundation for future inventors!<br> Swimming snakebots could be useful as unattended pool monitors, alerting adults if a child falls in. Every second counts in a rescue.<br> <br> <strong>Imagine the lifesaving applications</strong> of this kind of monitoring bot.<br> Residential swimming pools.<br> Clubhouse pools.<br> City recreation center pools.<br> Lake and pond swimming areas.<br> Boat dock areas.<br>
How would it detect some-one in the water??????

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