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Step 9Install the picture wire
Again, finding a local artist or frame shop to help you with this might be helpful, but it's not too hard if you'd like to do it yourself.
First, measure down from the top of the frame (10 inches if you're hanging horizontally, 18 if you're hanging vertically) and mark this point along the inside edge. Typically, you would measure down 1/3 the height of the frame, but we need to add a couple extra inches to compensate for the spacers. If you don't do this, the wire will pull "out" from the wall instead of pulling down on the hook.
Drill a pilot hole into the inside edges, about halfway between the moulding and the back edge of the frame. Be careful not to drill too deeply or you'll drill through the outside edge and snag the fabric.
Using a manual screwdriver, screw the tabs into the frame.
Take the picture wire and feed about five inches through the tab.
Fold the wire over on itself, and crimp it at the fold
Make a loop with the free end on top and then slide the free end through the loop.
Tighten the loop to leave about a 3/8" opening, and then feed the free end of the cable through the tab.
Bring the free end around and feed it through the loop created by the first knot in the cable.
Grab both ends of the cable and tighten the knot. It doesn't have to be super tight to be secure. It just needs to be tight enough to get the slack out for accurate measurement.
Twist the free end of the cable around the long end to keep it from hanging loose.
Pull a length of cable across the frame to the other tab. Pull enough slack so that if it's pulled into a "V," the point is about 2 1/2" from the top edge of the frame.
Pull an additional five inches of slack and cut the wire.
Measure and crimp the wire as before, and repeat all steps to fasten the cable to the second tab.
The panel is now ready to be hung.
First, measure down from the top of the frame (10 inches if you're hanging horizontally, 18 if you're hanging vertically) and mark this point along the inside edge. Typically, you would measure down 1/3 the height of the frame, but we need to add a couple extra inches to compensate for the spacers. If you don't do this, the wire will pull "out" from the wall instead of pulling down on the hook.
Drill a pilot hole into the inside edges, about halfway between the moulding and the back edge of the frame. Be careful not to drill too deeply or you'll drill through the outside edge and snag the fabric.
Using a manual screwdriver, screw the tabs into the frame.
Take the picture wire and feed about five inches through the tab.
Fold the wire over on itself, and crimp it at the fold
Make a loop with the free end on top and then slide the free end through the loop.
Tighten the loop to leave about a 3/8" opening, and then feed the free end of the cable through the tab.
Bring the free end around and feed it through the loop created by the first knot in the cable.
Grab both ends of the cable and tighten the knot. It doesn't have to be super tight to be secure. It just needs to be tight enough to get the slack out for accurate measurement.
Twist the free end of the cable around the long end to keep it from hanging loose.
Pull a length of cable across the frame to the other tab. Pull enough slack so that if it's pulled into a "V," the point is about 2 1/2" from the top edge of the frame.
Pull an additional five inches of slack and cut the wire.
Measure and crimp the wire as before, and repeat all steps to fasten the cable to the second tab.
The panel is now ready to be hung.
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