Step 2Start with the backplate
The easiest way I found to cut out all the parts is to draw the patterns on paper and then glue the patterns to my sheet plastic or sheet metal using rubber cement and cut the patterns out with a jeweler's saw. Then file all the edges and smooth them with sandpaper.
So let's start by making the outer ring/backplate assembly. Begin by cutting a 4" diameter disc from PCB material. There are two copper traces cut (or etched) into this as well as a couple of solder pads on the center so you can solder down the LED's. There are 11 LED's- 10 for the clear ring and one for the center lens. The LED's I used are a surface mount type part# NTE 30027. Even though they are a surface mount component they are pretty easy to solder to the copper traces.The LED's sit directly under a clear acrylic ring and they are spaced 36 degrees apart- just make sure they are all facing the same direction! I simply connected the LED copper traces to the center solder pads and then drilled two small holes and soldered some wires from the back of the board to go to my 3v battery.
UPDATE!
Instead of having to make a circuit board and solder all the tiny LEDs you can just get some of these little guys and wire them in parallel-
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8735
Just glue them down to a back plate and you're good to go!
The outer ring was cut from some thick plastic sheet- I used Delrin because it cuts well and is pretty durable. A good substitute would be 1/2" MDF sheet. I should have painted the ring silver but I ran out of time......maybe I'll make a machined aluminum ring in the future. There are 10 2.5mm allen head bolts evenly spaced at 36 degree intervals around the ring. I just drilled a pilot hole, then drilled a countersink for the bolt head so it would sit just below the surface of the ring. I actually threaded the holes for the bolts but you could probably just shove them in there with a bit of glue.
The outer ring is glued to the PCB backplate with a hot glue gun. Then run a bead of hot glue over the LED's and the copper traces. This will protect the LED's, help diffuse the light and keep the circuit from being shorted out when the remaining parts are installed.
Now you need a lens for the center. I made mine from acrylic sheet, but you could use just about any kind of lens or clear plastic part that would fit. The thing to remember is that if it is too tall then it will come into contact with other parts later on so watch the height. I used a scotchbrite pad on the lens to help diffuse the LED light.
Next an old heart rate monitor strap was glued and screwed to the backside of the backplate. The two screws went through the PCB and into the outer ring, helping to hold everything together.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |


















































I am having an extremely hard time cutting my PCB into a 4 inch circle. The PCB keeps on cracking and I can't even remotely get a clean cut. What do you recommend that I use to cut it?
Thank you.
I have a basic knowledge of circuits from my physics courses, and roughly get what to do. But part of the wiring layout you have in step two, the second picture confuses me.
The line you have coming down from the middle LED, when it reaches the copper trace it jumps over the inner ring, to make contact with the outer ring.
my question is, how is that achieved when making the cuts?
the only problem i'm having is choosing some led's can you tell me which one to buy because you've stated three and i don't know which would be the best bet.
Thanks!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110422708960&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110422708960&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
20mA is the current draw of each individual LED so 11 LEDs will draw 220mA. Divide 3000mAh by 220mA and you get roughly 13hrs battery life. Voltage doesn't have anything to do with it.
Make sense?