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Make an Iron Man Arc Reactor

Step 2Start with the backplate

Start with the backplate
The first thing I did was draw up a general plan so I could figure out how everything would fit together. The outer diameter of the Arc Reactor is 4", so if you print the plan photo to that scale it will give you a good guide and help you get everything lined up correctly. All the measurements used in the drawings are in inches and they are really just to be used as a guide- I really just eyeballed everything as I was making it. By no means are they meant to be exact measurements. The most important thing is getting the proportions correct so everything will fit together during the final assembly.

The easiest way I found to cut out all the parts is to draw the patterns on paper and then glue the patterns to my sheet plastic or sheet metal using rubber cement and cut the patterns out with a jeweler's saw. Then file all the edges and smooth them with sandpaper.

So let's start by making the outer ring/backplate assembly. Begin by cutting a 4" diameter disc from PCB material. There are two copper traces cut (or etched) into this as well as a couple of solder pads on the center so you can solder down the LED's. There are 11 LED's- 10 for the clear ring and one for the center lens. The LED's I used are a surface mount type part# NTE 30027. Even though they are a surface mount component they are pretty easy to solder to the copper traces.The LED's sit directly under a clear acrylic ring and they are spaced 36 degrees apart- just make sure they are all facing the same direction! I simply connected the LED copper traces to the center solder pads and then drilled two small holes and soldered some wires from the back of the board to go to my 3v battery.

UPDATE!
Instead of having to make a circuit board and solder all the tiny LEDs you can just get some of these little guys and wire them in parallel-
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8735

Just glue them down to a back plate and you're good to go!

The outer ring was cut from some thick plastic sheet- I used Delrin because it cuts well and is pretty durable. A good substitute would be 1/2" MDF sheet. I should have painted the ring silver but I ran out of time......maybe I'll make a machined aluminum ring in the future. There are 10 2.5mm allen head bolts evenly spaced at 36 degree intervals around the ring. I just drilled a pilot hole, then drilled a countersink for the bolt head so it would sit just below the surface of the ring. I actually threaded the holes for the bolts but you could probably just shove them in there with a bit of glue.

The outer ring is glued to the PCB backplate with a hot glue gun. Then run a bead of hot glue over the LED's and the copper traces. This will protect the LED's, help diffuse the light and keep the circuit from being shorted out when the remaining parts are installed.

Now you need a lens for the center. I made mine from acrylic sheet, but you could use just about any kind of lens or clear plastic part that would fit. The thing to remember is that if it is too tall then it will come into contact with other parts later on so watch the height. I used a scotchbrite pad on the lens to help diffuse the LED light.

Next an old heart rate monitor strap was glued and screwed to the backside of the backplate. The two screws went through the PCB and into the outer ring, helping to hold everything together.
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68 comments
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May 21, 2012. 7:45 PMski bum says:
Hi Honus
I am having an extremely hard time cutting my PCB into a 4 inch circle. The PCB keeps on cracking and I can't even remotely get a clean cut. What do you recommend that I use to cut it?
Thank you.
May 22, 2012. 8:35 PMski bum says:
Ok cool thanks for the advice. I have been using a jig saw with a metal cutting blade on a scrolling feature. I'm assuming that it was to violent for the PCB to handle.
Aug 12, 2011. 1:26 AMnboyert says:
This is a fantastic tutorial! its my next project, and my first go at wiring a circuit board. So this is going to be an adventure for sure :)

I have a basic knowledge of circuits from my physics courses, and roughly get what to do. But part of the wiring layout you have in step two, the second picture confuses me.

The line you have coming down from the middle LED, when it reaches the copper trace it jumps over the inner ring, to make contact with the outer ring.

my question is, how is that achieved when making the cuts?
Jun 23, 2011. 9:59 AMRobertHD says:
Great job Honus. I was wondering if you can help me with the round clear ring. I cannot for the life of me find this part anywhere. Or figure out how to make it. I was thinking of getting two different size pieces of PVC piping, and use casting resin and make my own ring. What do you think man? Do you know of a place where i can find this ring?
Mar 25, 2011. 10:24 PMckhodayeki says:
Hey i was just starting on my project and gathering Materials.

the only problem i'm having is choosing some led's can you tell me which one to buy because you've stated three and i don't know which would be the best bet.

Thanks!
Sep 28, 2010. 9:32 PMgrayseep189 says:
Whats a good Derlin substitute? Preferably something i can find thicker because Im using 5mm LEDs
Sep 29, 2010. 9:34 PMgrayseep189 says:
thanks, i got some wood and some white glossy spray paint im going to use
Sep 28, 2010. 10:44 PMgrayseep189 says:
hinking i might buy a stepper motor at my local parts & surplus store then get some white acrylic spray paint and paint it white
Sep 26, 2010. 6:24 PMJrwhar says:
Quick question, do you have to use SMD LEDs or can you use regular 3 or 5mm, I'm new to this whole thing any help would be appreciated.
Sep 28, 2010. 9:34 PMgrayseep189 says:
you can use 5mm/3mm LEDs this will just mean that you will have to make the backplate thicker because the LEDs wills stick out more.
Sep 28, 2010. 9:56 PMgrayseep189 says:
(removed by author or community request)
Sep 28, 2010. 10:24 PMJrwhar says:
Thanks this is my first DIY project involving LED's and soldering so i just wanted to make sure. How would you go about making it thicker?
Sep 28, 2010. 10:50 PMgrayseep189 says:
I dont think it has to be much thicker, you could achieve this by either getting getting a ticker piece of plastic used for the outer plastic ring or cut another ring and attach it underneath the current one.
Sep 28, 2010. 11:11 PMJrwhar says:
Wow sounds good thanks for the help. ^_^
Sep 28, 2010. 11:34 PMgrayseep189 says:
no problem, this is also my first DIY so sense i need so much help, thought i might as well help those with questions that i know the answer too
Sep 29, 2010. 12:19 PMgrayseep189 says:
yeah i couldnt find SMDs anywhere so I bought some 5mm LEDs, making me also need a larger power supply of 9v
Sep 4, 2010. 4:36 PMbamf91891 says:
Hey Honus sorry to keep questioning but how exactly do you cut the PCB, I've read how to etch it but can't find how to cut it. Also I saw your update and the lilypads, but I don't quite understand how you would wire them up. As usual, you are the best guy on here for this stuff and thanks in advance!
Sep 4, 2010. 5:21 PMbamf91891 says:
Thanks a ton, I mean it! I think I'm going to go with the Lilypad LEDs since that would eliminate the need for the hassle of making a board. I'm trying to decide between a dumbed down version of the first arc reactor from IM2, or a more detailed triangular one, so we'll see how it goes but I plan to document them both. I'm also planning on making an instructable of the prototype arm, the skeletal, exposed version and will try to get that up as well if I can get both done in time. Thanks for all your help!
Sep 4, 2010. 6:29 PMbamf91891 says:
How much of a brightness loss am i looking at? Also I saw here http://www.instructables.com/id/BUILD-THE-SECOND-GENERATION-ARC-REACTOR/step5/MAKE-THE-CENTER-COMPONENT/ that this guy doesn't use resistors or a PCB on his center, would this be too dangerous? I'm not even sure how to go about just soldering them together like it looks like he did in the sixth pic.
Jun 25, 2010. 7:11 AMJason Amigo says:
Great job on the arc reactor, I'm almost done with the prototype (just need to make the LED circuitry), and thanks to your blueprint, it looks almost exactly like the movie reactor (well not as cleanly made as yours) But now I want to make another one, and I want to improve on my previous build. I used cardboard sheet (around as think as a folder) instead of sheet metal for the spider frame and skeleton because I couldn't cut the sheet metal into those precise shapes. How'd you cut the metal cleanly? And also, I'm looking for a substitute for clear plastic, since I can't find any around here. For the first reactor, I just used a glue stick welded together into a circle as the clear ring, but of course it isn't as clear and perfectly circular. Any ideas on how to remedy these two problems? :D Thanks ;) Jason
Jun 29, 2010. 6:36 AMJason Amigo says:
I could try the coat hanger thing, but it's risky since I might mar the plastic in the heating process. But it's worth a shot. Thanks! ;)
Jun 25, 2010. 8:07 AMJason Amigo says:
Wow, Honus, you must put up with a lot to answer all our questions! :))
Jun 3, 2010. 8:51 PMacelegna says:
hi there.  Final question (I hope :P) It seems that there are 2 ways to make the traces: etch or cut.  You obviously chose cut but i was wondering (from your expierience) what's the difference or Pros and cons between the 2?  Thanx
Jun 2, 2010. 3:52 PMacelegna says:
First of all...increible job!!  I was wondering, through your setup (2 AA 1.5v batteries, 11 LEDs in paralel) how long does the power last?
Jun 2, 2010. 5:36 PMacelegna says:
:O Wow!!.....so 3v is equal to 3000mA? (nooB) :P
Jun 2, 2010. 7:18 PMacelegna says:
Yup...definately.  Thanx a lot.  im in Chile, south America and we don't have as much accesibility to the materials as you do so ill just have to improvise somehow :P  I'll send you a pic when its done
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Author:Honus(Multi-Bot)
I'm a former bicycle industry designer turned professional jeweler. I like working with my hands and am happiest when I'm in the shop building my creations. If you need help with your project just let...
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