I started this project out of a desire to keep my phone working on long bike tours. I needed a lightweight, inexpensive battery to put on my touring bike. Unfortunately, the lithium battery I needed costs 200 dollars new. Add a charger and powersupply and that's another 100 dollars. Batteryspace is my favorite place to get anything battery related online. You can see a comparable battery here . Thanks to some good luck, I was able to cobble together an 8 amp hour battery for about 100 dollars. This project takes a lot of soldering. You don't have to be super skilled; just tin a bunch of wires, and soldering the PCB is pretty easy.

I use this one on my bike for a headlight, tail light, radio, and cell phone charger.

Step 1: The PCB

If the batteries are the heart of the Li-ion battery, then the PCB is the brain. This is the one I used. It was 6.50 at Batteryspace. It was easy to solder wires on the PCB. It is designed to stop solder from spilling onto the rest of the board.

PCBs come indifferent varieties depending on number of cells, voltage, and capacity. Here is a list of all the PCBs you could use with 18650s on batteryspace.

Here are the specs for the one I used and I will explain what everything means...

Electric performance:

Overcharge protection voltage for single cell: 4.35V
Over discharge protection voltage for single cell: 2.40V
Over current detection protection: 4-6A
Supply current: Max 30uA
Short circuit protection
Protection circuitry resistance: <=50mohms

The PCB prevents overcharging because the delicate lithium ion chemistry of the battery can be damaged if charged with too high a voltage and the PCB will cut power to the cells if you did so. This should not be a problem if you charge with a smart balance charger. If you charge a cell with 4.2 volts, then the cell voltage will never rise above 4.2 volts, even if you charged the cell for weeks. You still don't want to charge a cell beyond the point at which it is charged. A smart charger will turn off once it has finished charging.

Many batteries can be discharged all the way to zero volts, this is not one of them. If the voltage of a lithium ion battery dropped to zero, or even below 2 volts, it would be damaged, and would never charge back up. Cell phones have this same protection. If you measured the voltage of a "dead" cell phone battery it would probably read 2.5 volts.

Over drain protection is necessary because this is a small PCB with tiny components and can only handle so much current. It shuts down to save itself when drawing between 4 and 6 amps.

Supply current is the current draw from the electronics on the PCB. It is practically nothing and will not drain your battery.

Short circuit protection means the PCB will turn off if it detected a short; if a wire became disconnected or if the wires crossed.

Protection circuitry resistance is the resistance caused by the PCB. All circuitry produces a little resistance. Again the drain is so little you will not notice it.
<p><a href="http://www.evlithium.com/lithium-battery-balancer.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.evlithium.com/lithium-battery-balancer....</a></p><p>balancing current from the separate battery balancer would reach 6A at max.</p><p>much better performance on balancing battery cells</p>
<p>its better to use separate battery balancer rather than a balance charger or charger with balancing function.</p>
<p>What should I use for a motorcycle battery, specially because it has to work with the original alternator....I dont think the usual pcb's works right with it, so maybe something like a led driver before? (alternator from 0 - 14,4 volt)</p>
<p>Is it possible to connect these PCB's in series or parallel? I'd like to know if it's possible to connect two 6s4p battery packs in series to double the voltage? I'd prefer a 12s controller but can't seem to find any online.</p>
<p>I have a 13s I am working on bulding currently.<br><a href="http://www.batterysupports.com/44v-48v-504v-12s-30a-12x-36v-lithium-ion-lipolymer-battery-bms-p-268.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.batterysupports.com/44v-48v-504v-12s-30...</a></p>
<p>I think you meant a 12s, but thanks that is a great find! Could you perhaps answer my question about connecting them in series/parallel though? For example say I have two 4s4p battery packs running at 14.8v each and delivering a maximum of 15 amps each. Could I connect them in series to get one 29.6v pack, or parallel and get one 14.8v pack but capable of delivering 30 amps? I understand that charging them in series might be an issue?<br><br>Basically I would like to build a modular system that can be easily expanded by adding more modules?</p>
<p>Nope, 13s. It's a pretty standard replacement size for Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) x4. SLA are called commonly called 12 volt batteries when actuality they are 13.2 volts fully charged. When placed in series by 4 (48v applications) the actual charged value is 52.8 Volts. This configuration is used in wheelchairs, lawn mowers, golf carts, ebikes, etc. A Li Ion max charge is 4.2 Volt each. 12x4.2=50.4, not high enough for the max voltage. I choose to run a 13s @ 4.2v each for 54.6 V.</p><p>As for your groupings, why would you do it that way? Is it not modular enough at 4p8s or 8p4s? I would think the 8s4p would be a pretty good way to go with a 2A charger and a BCM. This would charge them at 500ma each.<br>BCM:<a href="http://www.batterysupports.com/lifepo4-nbsp-24v-nbsp-8s-c-32_34.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.batterysupports.com/lifepo4-nbsp-24v-nb...</a><br>Charger:<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/8S-28-8V-29-6V-Li-ion-Li-Po-Battery-Intelligent-Smart-33-6V-2A-Charger-for-US-/221896637604" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/8S-28-8V-29-6V-Li-ion-Li-P...</a><br>You could create a &quot;battery bank&quot;, and have it be removable. But don't run a charged battery and a discharged battery together in any circuit ever, unless you isolate them from one another. Bad things could happen.</p>
Would the board you use still work if I only connected 2 sets of four? Because I only need 5v and (please correct me if I'm wrong) if I have 4 of them then it would give out about 16.8v, and if I only had 2 of them it would only give 8.4v. Also, hoe would I connect a RCA cord to a USB/Micro USB? <br> <br>Thank you!
use a 3.7 to 5v boost board
<p>I love this project. I am a total novice when it comes to electronics but it is very interesting. I am trying to build a light weight battery to run my telescope. It will run on the 11.1 volt configuration. I have 21 good cells, so I was going to place them in a S3P7 configuration. My question to you is, can you recommend a PCB for that configuration? I the one you have is only for a P4? I do not understand that part of the build. Thank you so much for posting such a cool idea.</p>
just look on ebay
<p>Please correct me if i'm wrong here but the charge profile of a li-ion is constant current then constant voltage with capacity measured by current dropping off. if you are using a balance charger across 4 cells in parallel the current will be 4x higher than its expecting thus providing incorrect feedback to the balance charger.? you could over charge your batteries</p>
it just acts like a bigger battery
So where is the best place to get cheap or free batteries / cells?
<p>Get used laptop cells from your local recycling site, usually there only 2 or 1 damaged cells inside, that make the pack fail, so the consumer throws it away, although the other cells are in a good used condition.</p>
why 16.8volt you could just make a 7.2 volt battery pack use an 7805 to bring to 5 volts and give your self even more amp hours
<p>You would want a buck converter which can handle up to 2A draw. Its about 90% efficient, whereas the lm7805 dissipates the excess voltage as heat.</p><p>boost converters step up voltage and drop max current, which is not possible in dc-dc applications using a transformer. </p>
<p>use a car adapter to usb, they can take 5-24 volts in and 5 volts out</p>
What is a 7805?
l7805cv is a 5v regulator brings the 7.2-12v down to 5 volts but needs a heatsing for voltages higher then 7.2 or if it going to be under heavy load.<br>what i use with my diy mobile charger 2 18650 in series for 7.2 volt then reduced to 5 volt by the 7805 ok losses of heat but if you look at that compared to a dc -dc converter that can use 1.5amp the little loss in heat is worth it
7805 are extremely inefficient power-wise (hence the heat sinking). They burn of excess voltage with current as heat. Since the real rating of a battery pack is watt-hours, 1. rearranging the batteries for a different voltage wont change the energy capacity (watt-hours) and 2. a 7805 will drastically reduce the effective watt-hours.
i was compareing ah dc to dc boost converter like they minty boost to a 7805
the 7805 is self adjusting resistive voltage splitter, really. you're not gainging any amp-hours by using it, but you are reducing the voltage.
<p>Very nice!</p>
i think i just found 18650 at 5000mah (5amph) will know more when money comes to get them
<p>those dont exist.</p>
Be careful here.<br><br>I HAVE found some 4200mAh rated 18650 cells, but they were Ni-MH(like here http://www.all-battery.com/browseproducts/One--4-3-AF-%2818650-Size%29-4200-mAh-high-capacity-NiMH-battery.html).<br><br>Those are completely different animals from Li-Ion 18650s.<br><br><br>You COULD use them for the same style project, but you'd need a different charger/charging setup.<br><br>Not to mention, they are still 1.2 volt.<br>So to get equal capacity...<br>for every two 18650 Li-Ion cells(we'll use an &quot;average&quot; 2600mAh@3.7v) you would need 3 18650 Ni-MH cells.<br>2x2600mAh@3.7v = 5200mAh@3.7v<br>3x4200mAh@1.2v = 4200mAh@3.6v<br><br>Trade offs are, safer to use/charge, but more weight, more space, less capacity, and good luke finding cheap/free Ni-MH.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=270821277749&amp;clk_rvr_id=275620926262&amp;item=270821277749&amp;lgeo=1&amp;vectorid=229508<br><br>were the ones i was looking at to me it says 10x 18650 at 5000mah but it could also be 10 18650 5000mah total.<br>just depends id wording is right
I don't trust several brands of 18650s like trustfire and Ultrafire. They are poor quality batteries and they overestimate their capacity. There is no way a single 18650 could be 5 amp hours. A good quality cell could be no more than 3 amp hours. The cells on batteryspace are expensive but I am sure they are legit.
you are very right they turned out to be 1100mah
<p>Very informational instructable! I'm planning on using it to make a battery pack for a quadcopter. Originally, I was planning to use Panasonic NCR18650B's for it, but then I found <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/18650-3200mAh-3-7V-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-for-UltraFire-LED-Flashlight-DB-/261530668000" rel="nofollow">these on eBay</a>. What do you think - can I use these? I'm going for ~ 2 C discharge rate. Thanks!</p>
<p>dont even buy those. they are so fake. buy a 12 cell laptop battery from amazon.</p>
<p>Dear experts,</p><p>Look like you can solve the problem that I am facing now.</p><p>I have about 20 x 5mw lasers and I need to design a system to drive it. At the moment I have 8 x 3.7V batteries (18650) connected in series and I found that even if I don't turn them on for a few days all the batteries became flat. Maybe because some of them are faulty and used up all the power?</p><p>The system that I am going to design include a Microchip PIC16F876A which needs 5V to drive it. So should I connect 2S4P (2 in series &amp; 4 in parallel) and use a voltage regulator to regulate it to 5V? I want to monitor it and charge them when required. Is this a good way to connect them? My concern is if one of them faulty then the whole thing will upset? How to avoid this? What is the best practice? I heard you guys mentioned about charging/discharging protection device - will this help? What sort of charger should I use because I am going to use this one from ebay to charge it:</p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/5A-DC-to-DC-CC-CV-Lithium-Battery-Charger-Board-LED-Drive-Power-Converter-Module-/131065598006?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e841e5036" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/5A-DC-to-DC-CC-CV-Lithium-...</a></p><p>If you have any suggestion please let me know.</p><p>Many thanks in advance</p>
<p>use a 12v car adapter to usb, they take 5-24 volts and regulate it down to 5v 1A</p>
seems everyone here is an expert,could you please help me?<br> I am using lifepo4 7 cells in series 2 in parallel,i dont know what kind of PCM I shoud use,my machine need 100A to boost first,then after started,the current only need around 30-50A.<br> <br> Please help to choose one good PCM from BesTech Power.
That seems like a lot of amps for just 2p
I found some trustfire batteries for $10 per 2 pack. <br> <br>With all the components for the summer project, my setup totals $200 plus unknown shipping for some things. <br> <br>If the batteries are found in laptop batteries, why not buy some of the mass-produced laptop batteries, take them apart, and save a few bucks over buying new individual cells? <br> <br>for example, buying 3 dell 11.1 volt, 4400 mah laptop batteries would cost $52 and gives 2 extra cells in case of a dead cell. <br>link: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Inspiron-1545-Laptop-Battery/dp/B002MG6OO6/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1366750261&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=dell+laptop+battery <br> <br> <br>Individually, the best price/quality I could find was trustfire @ $5/cell with unknown shipping cost, which adds up to $80 plus shipping.
Buy 12 cell packs on amazon
If I want to make my own battery pack what consideration do I need to make for the wires? As the voltage and amperage increase do I need to use ever larger wires? If I just use the same large wire t/o the build won't the increased resistance keep any of the cells from contributing power? <br> <br>In short, if I want to build a battery that can power a 72 volt motor, what gauge wire should I use when wiring up my parallel/series pack?
I would use 14 gauge
<p>hello .. amazing project , well built </p><p>but i have some question here </p><p>the pcb has an over charge protection beside other functions . yet you used a charger to charge the batteries with ballance . im a little confused here !!</p><p>can the pcb be used to charge the batteries instead the charger ?</p><p>because when reading the specs of the pcb it says ( charge and discharge terminal on p+/p-)</p><p>plz do correct if i missed any thing .</p><p>(sry . old post but i need some answers .. thanks any way)</p>
You can but it won't balance charge
<p>You got it right. The PCB is a protection board which does all of the balancing on its own. Connect any power supply under 20 volts and it should work just fine. Buying a balanced charger defeats the whole purpose of trying to save money.</p>
<p>hello i need help i'm starting out making portable chargers and speaker systems powered by recycled li-ion batteries and this helped alot but couldn't i charge 2 li-ion batteries in parallel if it is being powered by a 5v charger </p>
Too much voltage, fire risk
<p>Just so you're aware, for less than $30 you can head on down to any battery shop and pick up an 8AH SLA that'll run all your equipment just as long, and doesn't require expensive or complicated equipment.</p>
A 14 ah sla can be replaced with 21 18650 cells, higher energy density and lighter, as well aas you can discharge below half without damage to the battery
<p>Hi there, stumbled upon your tutorial whilst searching for how to DIY a battery pack.<br><br>Here's my issue, I don't come from an electronics background so pardon me if this sounds a bit simple.<br><br>From what I gathered on your 2nd page and what I have in mind, I'm actually planning to make a single pack of 6 18650s, 7.4v, into a camera battery casing which is meant exactly for that, but I'm using higher capacity cells because the originals are quite low cap. <br><br>Anyway, from your explanation, it seems that I'm looking at a 2S3P configuration am I right? If I am, the problem now is the soldering. I need help wiring them to each other. Could you hit me up at ho.zhenjie@gmail.com? Appreciate it tons!</p>
Just make 2 packs of 3 cells, solder a wire across the top and the bottom of the two packs then join them together

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