Sometimes, when i'm drilling a PCB with my dremel, it shadows all the area below, making my job too difficult.
A long time ago i saw in Hack a day a light for macro in a camera and I thought it can be a good idea to use a led ring with the dremel to light up the working area under it.
A long time ago i saw in Hack a day a light for macro in a camera and I thought it can be a good idea to use a led ring with the dremel to light up the working area under it.
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials
For making a led ring you will need:
-Nine smd LEDs
-An old mobile charger (4.5-5.5v)
-One 15ohm resistor
- Male and female plug (optional, you can connect the charger dirctly in the PCB)
-The PCB, you can download the PCB stencil.
-Nine smd LEDs
-An old mobile charger (4.5-5.5v)
-One 15ohm resistor
- Male and female plug (optional, you can connect the charger dirctly in the PCB)
-The PCB, you can download the PCB stencil.
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It sort of looks like a UFO!!
What is the voltage and current of the smd led you used?
If someone want to use STANDARD WHITE led should put a 45 ohm (or standard 43 ohm) 1/4W resistor for 4.5V or 95 ohm ( or standard 91 ohm)for 5.5V power supply.
Resistor value is :
R=(Vs-Vf) / If where Vs=SOURCE voltage, Vf=LED voltage, If=LED current (for WhiteLED If= 0.020A=20mA and Vf=3.6V);
"Wattage" P=I*I*R (for WhiteLED @4.5V is 18mW=0.018W and 1/4W resistor is more than enough). Hope this will help you somehow.
And because i saw the LEDs were bright enough with it i didn't get a new 1/4w resistor because in my city shop they're about 0,60$ each one, so i try to use what i get from trash.
It was also because i didn't know how to calcule resistor for LEDs.
Could you please expand a bit about how you made the PCB?
Thanks and you did a very nice job!
1.Print out your design on a LASER Printer, An inkjet will not work, Glossy paper is the best to use (or use a page out of a magazine)
2. Place your Board design on your copper clad board & iron it on the hottest temperature for about five minutes, just to be sure all the toner has been transferred.
3. Place your board in cool water for a few minutes, Then rub the paper off. You should be left with the design on the copper clad board.
4. Etch the board. I use one part of hydrochloric acid diluted in five of hydrogen peroxide. it takes about 5 minutes to etch.
5. Once your board is etched, remove the left over toner. There are a few methods to do this. I use a mixture of steel wool (To get the toner off to a rough standard) then clean the board up with acetone to ensure there are no bits of toner on the board.
1- why not to use traditional pin in hole led with a general purpose PCB? It should be easier then to use the SMD leds (and maybe cheap)
2- do you think is possible, stantring from a copper board to create the circuitry mechanically directly with the Dremel instead of doing the etching process?
You could also connect them in series rather than parallel, requiring a power supply with a higher voltage (but lower amp rating). I think 12V are easier to find (read: recycle).
Verry good!
In fact, i wanted to move the LED's on top of the ring you are holding @ http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FDQ/HV5X/HDYZI1B1/FDQHV5XHDYZI1B1.LARGE.jpg and use a smaller / a series of smaller PCBs. I have some ideas on how to make them angled AND circular. :)
This way the PCB wont get in my ways while holding the dremel.
Normally i hold the dremel where the PCB is now fixed...
However, since all the LEDs are in parallel, you should really have a separate current limiting resistor for each. Otherwise you'll drastically reduce the lifespan of whichever of the nine LEDs happens to have the lowest forward voltage.
If you put them all in series, you can get away with a single resistor, but then you're working with fairly high voltages. A good compromise may be to make strands of three LEDs in series with a resistor, and then to put three of those strands in parallel.
The even bright lighting around the tool is important.