Make your own Lathe from other peoples rubbish by bongodrummer
Featured
IMGA0723.JPG
IMGA0700.JPG
The aim of this instructable is to make a wood lathe from recycled and scrap materials and use it to make some lovely things.

Why a lathe? You can use it to make beautiful birthday and Christmas pressies for family and friends and to craft all manner of things to help in other projects. To make yourself a load of wooden kitchen bowls, plates, utensils, etc. To make arrows, door and draw knobs, staffs, axles, beautiful ornaments, flower pots, light shades... The list is endless.

Making a lathe is fun! Designing one yourself and using free or cheap materials is even better.
This instructable shows how I did it. I got ideas from lots of places on the internet (including other instructables - do a search for 'lathe') and formulated my design as I collected materials.

This lathe is made almost exclusively from stuff other people threw away or didn't have use for anymore, and a big part of the challenge is creatively using these readily available materials. You will probably want to vary your own design from mine, as you will inevitably find you can get your hands on different bits. Don't worry though I will try my best to offer techniques and advice (including where the best places are to get stuff), anyway it is much more exciting when you have a hand in the design process. I would love to hear what you guys use to make your designs.

A more complete and up to date set of instructions for this project and videos of the lathe, and other bits and bobs can be found on our blog at: http://www.floweringelbow.co.uk


I use some basic power tools in making this, and I meddled (carefully!) with mains voltage, so the usual safety precautions must apply. Always wear eye and ear protection when using power tools and lung protection when making dust. Be very careful and get qualified help (if you need it) with main voltage etc.

The lathe itself can be very dangerous, following good practice, and designing in safety, is the best method of staying out of harms way. I will hopefully cover some of these points, but ultimately you're doing this at your own risk, so please take care!

 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Acquiring the motor

IMGA0112.JPG
IMGA0115.JPG
For this you are either going to buy a motor, or scavenge and reuse one. Favouring the latter and more environmentally-friendly option, this instructable assumes you will scavenge one. The picture shows an old washing machine motor salvaged from a machine my parents were throwing out. These tend to be a good and surprisingly plentiful (keep your eyes out) source of one horsepower series wound commutator motors. It should provide plenty enough power to drive a small wood lathe like the one I am planning.

If you do get a washing machine motor try and grab the whole machine - then in the comfort of your own home you can take your time to work out how the wiring went. If like me you were on a time budget to get it away from your parents sub-Arctic outside shed just cut it out and get as much of the electronics as possible.

To extract the motor, turn the machine upside-down and you should be able to see the motor. It is now simply a case of unbolting it from its mountings.

These motors can be run off both DC and AC making them quite versatile little beasties.

In the picture I am testing the motor with a DC bench supply, made from an old computer PSU (power supply unit - check out Sitnalta's instructable). DO NOT CONNECT THE MOTOR TO MAINS VOLTAGE without any load attached. Series wound motors have no theoretical limit to their speed and the centrifugal forces can fling the motor armature apart! Even with a modest load a direct connection to 240V mains is a bad idea, as the speeds are likely to strain the bearings, brushes and frame - all of which are not designed for unlimited power without a hefty mechanical load.

Another way to test a motor of this sort without a bench-top supply is to attach a 1000W electric heater wire between the brushes. The current passing through the resistance wire should be enough to limit the speed of the motor.
Sneezus says: Jan 22, 2013. 11:36 AM
Hello, I have been wanting to build my own lathe too. I have viewed your steps and they are very helpful! I do have a taper bearing I found laying around in my toolbox. How would I go about mounting/using it? It's just the bearing, no cap or housing or anything. Still works nicely and since I am looking into doing heavier project loads I will benefit from the taper bearing and not break the bicycle shaft/bearings like in you photo. Thank you very much so far!
NATIVEBOY says: Jan 15, 2013. 5:57 PM
what other type of motors can you use?
bongodrummer (author) says: Jan 16, 2013. 3:25 AM
Many. Almost anything over 1/4 horse power, depending on how you are planning to use your lathe. Each different type will require different speed control systems (eg. induction motors will need an inverter or belt change system)... If you have a scrapped/spare motor in mind try googling it...
flashedmomuse says: Oct 27, 2012. 1:00 AM
First off i would like to say what an amazing job you have done. i am in the process of making a lathe following your design. second I'm interested in turning a plastic material such as a PVC or electrical conduit for a project in progress. any tips?
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 27, 2012. 10:50 AM
Hi Flashedmomuse,
Cool, post a pic and let us know how it turns out...

Not sure on the pvc front - if it is conduit, you may find it difficult to chuck up and turn without it flexing about a lot. A length of wood turned to size and pushed inside the pipe might help you...

It might take some experimentation. If you are going to try with hand tools (in the same way you would turn wood), I am not sure how easily it would be to take fine cuts on PVC without the tool 'digging in'. A fixed cutting tool and holder would probably be much better. Saying that I would probably give it a go - just make sure the cutting tool is sharp and you are using good technique (it makes a big difference as to whether you will 'dig in' and ruin the work piece or not) so practice on scraps first. Read/watch plenty of turning tutorials before you start making shavings.
Good luck.
123alex123 says: Oct 11, 2012. 10:47 AM
hi, id just like to say this is one of the best instructables on a wood lathe i have seen. i soon am going to be makeing my own wood lathe from scrap parts as i dont want to spend much on it. as for the safety issue, so called experts dont always know what there talking about. im sure as you was able to build this you must be able to judge how safe it is. for my moter im going to be using and old pillar drill so itll have pullys and belt but i dont mind this to begin with. i am wondering however about how to attach the face plate to the drive? or did i miss this in the instructions?
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 11, 2012. 2:53 PM
Hi Alex, Thanks for your feedback. The faceplate is attached to the shaft simply with a number of set screws (three to be precise). Where they tighten onto the shaft, I drilled a small notch for them to engage with.
I was lucky in that I found the faceplate with the old motor I used for the spindle shaft... It fit perfectly...
Good luck with you lathe - would love to see an instructable or slideshow of your work :)
Cheers,
B.
tinker234 says: Nov 28, 2011. 5:22 PM
wow could i use it for metal eventually
bongodrummer (author) says: Nov 29, 2011. 1:05 AM
Probably not without substantial design modifications. As it is it simply would not hold the tolerances required by a metal lathe - It is not stiff or rigid enough and doesn't have a tool holder. You would probably want the spindle to be much closer to the bed for a metal lathe, so the flex between the cutting tool and the work piece would be less.
Thanks for the comment - good luck!
padeutsche says: May 14, 2012. 8:12 PM
You could use it as a roughing lathe, that way it save wear and tear on a regular metal lathe, some big shops do this, they rough out the piece on a manual lathe then they do the final precision work on their cnc, it save wear and tear on the very expensive CNC, and time actually since it saves time on set up and removing all those tool path steps and saves the wear and tear on the tooling as well and having to set up the tool holders.
tinker234 says: Dec 3, 2011. 10:43 AM
your welcome i cant wait to make my own lathe
skaar says: Aug 27, 2011. 4:29 AM
perhaps a relay with a lower voltage coil, a few more parts to regulate mains to it? might make the difference, if someone can't scrounge the high volt coil relay.
stoneground1 says: Mar 20, 2011. 4:42 PM
I gotta say this has been one of the best instructables i have ever had the pleasure to come across!! Kudos Bongo!!! I love the scavenging!! I seem to find myself using things out of broken or discarded "machinery" also. A piece here, a piece there and viola something else! Haha!! Great ingenuity you got there!! Thank you for all the pics also!! I have seen too many instructables with only a handful of pics and not enough description of the build. I realize this is an older build but do you still use it and have you done any upgrades to it? I'm in the process(designing phase) of building a lathe myself but i really would like to have one i can turn aluminum on. Granted it would have to be much,much beefier!! Well enough of my rambling. Again thank you for the build and your ingenious insight!! Peace!!!
bongodrummer (author) says: Mar 21, 2011. 1:49 AM
Hay Stoneground. Thanks for the nice comment :D
I actually lent the lathe to a friend about a year ago now. I have been thinking about making a new one, for turning absolutely massive stuff - one day...

There are mods I would do to this one, if I was building it over again. Like I would build in some kind of 'feedback' into the motor speed regulation - so that I could get better speed control under variable loads - It is quite annoying the way it slows down when you are roughing out a blank with some 'vigour'. And I did always intend to make a digital display of the spindle rpm, using the motor's built in tachometer...

Anyway, your post has reminded me that at some point I should get the lathe back from my friend - It has been away so long, it is now quite difficult to find a space for it in the workshop now ;-)

Are you planning to use scrap for you lathe? If you want any feedback on your metal lathe designs, I would be happy to take a look.
Thanks again, B.
pheenix42 says: Feb 2, 2011. 6:55 PM
TOP SHELF effort, sir, no doubt! (^_^)
skwoorl says: Jan 30, 2011. 6:41 PM
What are you using as a chuck to hold your workpiece?
bongodrummer (author) says: Jan 31, 2011. 1:28 AM
Hi Skwoorl, I wasn't using a chuck - rather a face plate, that the work (or a disk of ply, that the work is glued to) can be screwed to. There is an old video knocking on youtube that shows this (you could find it from my blog). A chuck would be nice mind you...
7862Tony says: Nov 21, 2010. 12:19 PM
Since when BRUSH Motors are used in Washing Machines??. The capacitor in the picture is the starting cap not used in brushed motors. I really love to see such motor run on DC.
guds777 says: Jul 11, 2010. 4:07 PM
An electrician told me when you has a brushed motor you don't need a capiscor.
bongodrummer (author) says: Aug 3, 2010. 1:47 AM
It is true that you don't need a big 'run capacitor' in the same way an induction motor would. Depends how you set it up though, chances are you will use one or more somewhere along the line, brushed or not...
Bodygard1117 says: Aug 2, 2010. 7:28 PM
rust dust
bongodrummer (author) says: Aug 3, 2010. 1:45 AM
Indeed?
moshee says: May 8, 2010. 7:36 AM
 Should I trust the values/part numbers on the schematic or the parts list? D2, R1, R2, and R3 seem to conflict.
bongodrummer (author) says: May 8, 2010. 12:47 PM
 Hi Moshee. Thanks for pointing that one out, not sure how that slipped through.  Trust the values in the text parts list - the schematic has gone 'funny'..
Cheers, B. 
moshee says: May 8, 2010. 1:15 PM
Sounds good, thanks for the reply.

Great instructable, too :)
Simpson_jr says: Apr 7, 2010. 2:06 AM
Thank you all for watching another episode of "The second life of Machines".
It's great, although I'd also advice people inspired to be cautious, 1hp or 240AC can do a lot of irreversible damage.

Already made some bongos with it ?

bongodrummer (author) says: Apr 7, 2010. 3:22 AM
Quite right Care is needed....
No, no bongos yet ;)
rorymcstay says: Mar 22, 2010. 3:00 PM
 your a genius :). i loved the home made tap
lasersage says: Mar 26, 2010. 2:33 AM
which home made tap? I must've missed that bit

Looked like a good instructable. Loving the solid state speed control. My lathe has a belt but the two pulley don't match so I'm constantly having to adjust the motor mount to get an appropriate tension when changing speed. Tedious.

I guess now you need a nice tailstock to turn between centres and you'll be totally versatile  :)
sotoj159 says: Mar 14, 2010. 7:33 PM
could you use a dryer motor?
bongodrummer (author) says: Mar 15, 2010. 1:39 AM
Possibly. Though I don't think it would likely be as powerful... Depends what kind you have?
maverick1952 says: Oct 1, 2009. 11:10 AM
Hey go to a Harbour Freight store and buy a lathe for 99 dollars and get a set of tools about 20 dollars also go to web site for 20% off coupon.You could have slowed down your motor with a pulley with multiple groves on both ends .You spend more than that on sheet metal in that contraption.I all for building stuff but your dangerous.
msw100 says: Feb 28, 2010. 6:56 AM
Yeh  because there are Harbour Freight stores in the UK. did the Maplins store not tell you anything noobhead.The instructable came from Wales in the UK
Why don,t you read the instructable before shouting your mouth off.
Irritable_Badger says: Feb 27, 2010. 11:28 AM
As a long time wood worker I can tell you that cheap gouges (lathe tools) can be extremely dangerous. Unseen stress points and internal voids common in cheap steel can cause the tool to explode when it catches (and it WILL catch). I've seen two accidents caused by using cheap gouges and both involved trips to the emergency room.

Also cheap tools anneal easily when you sharpen them on the grinder, causing you to constantly have to resharpen the tools.

Making your own lathe is fun and can save you a few hundred dollars but don't screw around with cheap gouges.
hapidan says: Oct 2, 2009. 1:53 PM
Actually, this lathe is probably of better quality than the stuff from Harbor Freight. I find their machinery to be poorly constructed and out of balance(which is a disaster for a lathe and potentially dangerous). They are great for random tools and one time use stuff but avoid the machinery. Great job making your own lathe. If you feel up to it, try making a Longworth chuck to go with it.
pfred2 says: Oct 8, 2009. 11:21 AM
I have a few Horrible Fright machines and while they're not top industrial quality I find them all to be serviceable. Their 4x6 bandsaw is legendary. I've had mine now for over 15 years and have personally sawn 90# railroad track in half with it among many other materials. Some of their hand power tools do leave a bit to be desired to me though.

 Lathes are easily balanced and are often called upon to turn unbalanced jobs. It is called using balancing weights. Beyond that all lathes can be potentially extremely dangerous, it is just physics. So I'm not too sure what your point is with your comment. Personal vendetta against HF maybe?

bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 2, 2009. 6:50 AM
Hi Maverick,
I agree with Shantinath and Kearney's comments on this, but I would like to know in what way you thought it particularly dangerous? I could think of a million ways it is dangerous, but it is all about assessing the risks and making a considered judgement right? I have lots to learn, so it maybe you have spotted something I missed or didn't think carefully enough about?

thanks for the comments..
shantinath1000 says: Oct 1, 2009. 3:28 PM
While you are right that there are cheaper ways to get a lathe and that this is potentially more dangerous than store bought the real point here is that HE made it and HE gets enjoyment from that fact and from the process of building as well. Also through his sharing what he did I get enjoyment from seeing a job well done. An all to rare thing these days.
kearney says: Oct 1, 2009. 11:36 AM
I think you're missing the point here maverick. It seems to me that all of the material in this project except maybe the triac were scavenged, making it cost much, much less than the $120 you quote for the price of a cheap lathe. It also provided the opportunity to learn the concepts behind how a wood lathe operates and some basic motor control theory. Your argument that this is dangerous is somewhat confusing as well. Yes, there are aspects of this project that are potentially fatal if not handled correctly (i.e. wiring for mains current and building a tool that operates at 400-200 rpm), but these are addressed by the author and the final project minimizes those risks as much as is possible. This is a very well written instructable with a clever and useful tool the end result. Please read through the whole thing before making comments as to how silly the project is. Remember, this is instructables, not buyables.
dynamodan says: Oct 2, 2009. 7:01 AM
Not to mention the $99 lathe from HF doesn't have that sophisticated solid-state speed controller! Great job on the lathe.
anuraj1970 says: Oct 1, 2009. 4:50 PM
Ditto!
Phil B says: Oct 1, 2009. 3:08 PM
When someone makes a critical comment that misses the point I always go to their profile and see how many Instructables that person has published. It puts things in perspective quickly in a most wonderfull way.
static says: Oct 17, 2009. 6:59 PM
 Apologies to this instructables author for going off topic here. Respectfully Phil what does or doesn't miss the point is relative to the person making that judgement, and your quick perspective process may be flawed. I really doubt I'm the only one that comment without having posted any instructable, that's why I'm taking the time to post this comment.  The lack of posted instructables doesn't mean we don't have have formal training or personal experience that relates to our comments, and the instructable to which we are commenting in the old days most of us had no reason to document the build process of our projects, where we would have published?  
Phil B says: Oct 18, 2009. 6:01 AM
 What you say may be very true.  However, I have noticed those who have published Instructables know what it is like to put oneself out in public with his or her own published effort, and they are kinder toward others and more reserved in their criticisms than those who have not exposed themselves to public scrutiny by publishing something.  Wryly, (that is, not entirely seriously) I think there ought be a rule at Instructables that no one may comment on another's Instructable until he or she has published at least three Instructables, himself or herself.  I still maintain that the most critical comments I have seen always come from people who have published nothing, themselves.     
static says: Dec 7, 2009. 12:12 AM
 Your response noted Phil, while I believe it's a topic worthy of a general discussion, the comment section of another's instructable isn't the place to do so. Keep posting the instructables...

DamionLee says: Nov 19, 2009. 12:37 AM
Just wanted to drop in my two cents on this. I can understand your point of view - there are many people who only seem to be interested in berating other people's efforts. However, I think it is important to differentiate between someone who just goes down the route of 'I don't like this' or 'This is bad' and someone who tries to point out the flaws/issues they have taken with an instructable and most importantly why.

I don't often comment, and I suspect (without going back to look at them) that most of my comments have been critical. But I do mean critical in the full sense. I will always attempt to explain why I am writing what I have done. Primarily in an effort to allow an instructable to be improved.

You would notice that I have no Instructables - primarily because I have never had time to properly document any projects at the time. However, as for exposing myself to public scrutiny - that I have done on many occasions in other ways, so I do understand exactly how it feels to have someone comment on your work/concepts/ideas.

It would seem unfair to stop people commenting without having written Instructables as you are potentially ruling out the time earned knowledge and wisdom of people who may want to help, but do not have the time or perhaps the inclination to write their own Instructables.
Phil B says: Nov 19, 2009. 8:10 AM
I had an e-mail discussion about all of this with one of the Instructables editors.  Firstly, it is impossible to disallow comments by anyone who has not published Instructables and that is for reasons of technology.  Secondly, that editor has had the same type of critical comments on his own Instructables and so much so that he sometimes felt like never again submitting another Instructable.  

For an example of the comments I have in mind, see my Instructable on making a new cord for a laptop power supply.  People who have submitted no Instructables told me all sorts of reasons why such a project was likely to cause electrical shock or a house fire and should not even be allowed on Instructables.  They were shooting from the hip.  I finally got one of them to cease when I challenged him to place a glue stick on the hottest power supply he could find and see if it melted after a couple of hours.  Meanwhile, I have had that cord plugged into my power supply continuously for almost six months and it works as well and as safely as the original I lost.

It reminds me of a story my mother told.  She was a registered nurse.  Another nurse who had never married and never given birth to a child thought the women in the maternity ward were just a bunch of whiners who needed to toughen up and quit complaining about pain.
pfred2 says: Oct 8, 2009. 11:58 AM
I am more quality than quantity myself. Making up a statistic off the top of my head I'd hazard a guess that about 90% of the Instructibles on this site are rubbish. So it may be a good thing that more people aren't posting more tripe.

Personally I consider carefully if something is generic enough to be of widespread use or not. I do lots of stuff, but most of it is unique to my situation and would be of no use at all to anyone else just how I did it.

Oh, and I was pfred1 but if you lose your password on this site and have a new email address I do not think it is possible to recover your old account. So even I have more than one Instructible, just not credit for them any longer. Ain't the Internet great?

Anyhow that is my perspective on the matter.

I'm unique, just like everyone else!
Phil B says: Nov 19, 2009. 8:22 AM
I am sorry that your Instructables are no longer credited to you.  Tongue in cheek I say there are too many Instructables published by young high school kids who only want to make better stink bombs and spit wads.  I now have 106 Instuctables and have tried to make them all something that is useful.  Still, what is useful to me as an adult was not always my highest interest when I was an adolescent.  Sometimes a useful technique with broader application is described inside a not so useful Instructable.  On that basis, I would encourage you to publish things you found useful.  I would bet others will find them useful, too.  If nothing else, many of us just enjoy seeing what someone else did.
pfred2 says: Nov 19, 2009. 12:25 PM
No biggie with the credit really. I haven't noticed the stink bomb or spitwad Instructibles, but something tells me if I looked I just might. All I'm saying is a lot of the Instructibles I see strike me as very narrow in application. Which prompts me to wonder why people posted them in the first place.  Instructing isn't the first thing that comes to my mind.

Maybe I should start a more straightforward website with the domain Brag.net? Because that is what a lot of posts here look like to me.

Then I could branch out with the name dontdoitthisway.com. I'm sure that could be a smashing success too!

Possibly I'm just overstatingtheobvious.org?

In any event I am not so quick to pass judgment on people who are not so prolific here for lack of those other sites to post to. They simply may possess better editorial skills than average.
guds777 says: Feb 27, 2010. 3:25 PM
 hey there, where can one got  info on these 5 pole cap you got there, i has a motor  one similar to this you got, and i am in trouble understand the connection.
eyerobot says: Feb 2, 2010. 4:29 AM
This instructible is a wealth of information.
I always prefer to recycle, When I build projects, And it's wonderful to see other people doing the same.
Great job.
[ReinventingYourExit] says: Dec 21, 2009. 3:42 AM
EXTREMELY well documented, photographed, and described. You did a wonderful job explaining what,how,and why on every single aspect of this build. AMAZING job bongo! 5 stars! This is a very detailed guide,and I will not hesitate to come back to this 'ible over and over,simply for your creativity, resourcefulness,and use of the word faff. Honestly, good job. Keep it up,and good luck with the tailstock!
RYE
m5industriesinc says: Nov 22, 2009. 4:45 PM
put a dang video on here dang you've  got everything so complicated just give us a video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bobcat_t190.jpg
bongodrummer (author) says: Nov 23, 2009. 3:38 AM
m5industriesinc says: Nov 22, 2009. 4:47 PM
PUT A FLIPP"N VIDEO ON HERE
bobcat_t190.jpg
Landon Sullivan says: Nov 1, 2009. 1:31 PM
Nice job, 5*

Oh and in Step 22, I thought you were going to eat clumps of sawdust, but then I read the caption.
superballistix says: Oct 16, 2009. 6:43 AM
Is it possible to make a pedal powered lathe?
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 17, 2009. 7:48 AM
Sure is. Do a google search for 'spring pole lathe'. Or see: www.instructables.com/id/A-modern-build-of-a-medieval-spring-pole-lathe/
superballistix says: Nov 1, 2009. 1:00 PM
Thanks! You really did a nice job making that lathe.
superbeetlejosh says: Oct 2, 2009. 6:07 PM
How about a bowl-turning instructable?
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 20, 2009. 8:13 AM

I have a recent blog post on this. Check it out at www.floweringelbow.co.uk/blog/2009/10/20/oversize-turning/.

Not meant as an  instructable - but may give a good idea of what is involved.  

bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 3, 2009. 3:08 AM
Will put it on the to-do list superbeetle!
flemron says: Oct 16, 2009. 2:19 PM
How does the bed slide along the ally rails, is it ally sitting on ally? isnt there a fair amount of friction?
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 17, 2009. 7:51 AM
Hi Flemron, yeah there is a fairly tight fit... But they do slide with the help of the 'lead screw'esque arrangment - not that i would recommend that kind of system.    
flemron says: Oct 19, 2009. 12:39 AM
Thanks for the reply! i do love the way you sourced all your materials!
static says: Oct 17, 2009. 5:31 PM
 One of the most detailed instructable I have seen to date. While it does make on study it a bit, there is an advantage to that in any one seeking to duplicate it by using the rubbish available to them.  Rubbish is never universal. My dad had a habit of bring piles of electric motors he bought next to nothing at  consignment auction for next to nothing. To save space in our shop I made a deadman's cord to test them for basic operation, so those that failed could be piled up outdoors exposed to the elements. Most where from washing machines, I just don't recall seeing one that had brushes and a commutator, indicating they could operate of  both AC and DC. Perhaps they weren't "modern"? I mention that because the motor control circuits you used will not work motors  others may run across. For the record I'm posting on my experiances here in the USA.
jexter says: Oct 16, 2009. 7:20 PM
Really sweet Instructable!  You did an amazing job documenting it, and the creative design built around scavenged materials was inspired.

Look forward to more from you in the future.
stib says: Oct 12, 2009. 10:24 PM
About the speed control: have you thought about adding a mechanical regulator, like say they have in old sunbeam mixmasters. It basically involves a weighted switch that rotates on the shaft of the motor. When the motor starts the switch is closed, and once it spins up to speed the centifugal force opens the switch. The speed control changes the force on the spring that pushes against the centrifugal force. The beauty about this system is that at low speeds you have the same torque as you do at high speeds, and the more load on the motor the more power will go to it. It provides a very stable speed control using only mechanical parts.
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 13, 2009. 12:39 AM
Hi Stib, I like the idea! I did consider this kind of speed control, and can't remember why I didn't pursue it. Probably just because I could see how to implement the electronic control without much problem. I imagine the centrifugal control, if implemented well, could give excellent results though. Do you know of any example projects that use it?

I will have to look up these 'sunbeam mixmasters' - I am not familiar with them yet. Cheers.
sjsquirrel says: Oct 9, 2009. 11:08 AM
Excellent Instructable! A lathe is one of the tools missing from my shop, and I've often considered trying to build one myself. This will be a great reference.

Thanks for taking the time to learn all this, and to write such a great instructable (which I know is a big job in itself).

Steve
jongscx says: Oct 8, 2009. 8:27 AM
sorry, don't mean to call you out or anything, but from the title, I thought it was ALL made from rubbish...  as in no bought items (the biggest being the steel stock...those are expensive O_O)

Still, great job and great recycling.

bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 9, 2009. 1:09 AM

Jongscx, all the steel in this came from things other people were throwing away. Some of this involved a good bit of luck. I found that when I got right into the project things in the least likely places just seemed to pop up. So yeah, pretty much the only thing I did spend money on was some of the electronic components and they were very cheep really.

pfred2 says: Oct 8, 2009. 11:00 AM
This lathe cost $0. Well, OK I did have to go out and buy a can of spray paint, well I didn't *HAVE* to, but I did.<br /><br /><br />
Headstock.jpg.jpeg
pfred2 says: Oct 8, 2009. 10:55 AM
This lathe is.
Headstock.jpg.jpeg
gothycdesigns says: Oct 8, 2009. 10:53 PM
Nice writeup. I had thought about making my own, but talked myself out of it because I didn't want it to turn out unlevel or untrue. Great Job though. Glad to see you posted this.
Padlock says: Oct 4, 2009. 6:12 PM
I'm thinking about making one of these, actaully because I have the single most expensive part already: the motor. However, it is a bit more hefty than I would like... 7.5 horsepower. Can I regulate the current to the motor, making it less energy intensive? I plan on keeping it on 3 phase 240 VAC; do you know of any current regulators of that magnitude? Also, do you think it would be cheaper to regulate the current 3-phase power into the motor (which would require 3 regulators), or pump it up from 120, then regulate, then throw together a phase-offset? (Each phase is 60 degrees separated, correct? Havent worked with it in a long time.)
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 5, 2009. 2:00 AM
Padlock, sounds like you could make a monster machine ;) What is the rpm of the motor? I presume that it is an induction motor? If so the speed is usually varied with the frequency of the supply (usually 50 or 60 Hz) or the number of poles in the stator. Thus, induction motors require a quite different kind of speed controller than the one I used. Depending on the design of your motor you will probably need an electronic frequency controller. They usually rectify the ac supply into dc and then frequency is generated by digitally-controlled semiconductor switches. This way the ac current can be supplied at whatever frequency you select. They are very effective and useful solutions (giving constant torque over a large range of speeds). On the downside, you will probably have to do quite a lot of research to make your own, and the commercially available ones are quite expensive. What did the motor come out of? Might be that using a belt changing system to vary the speed would be more desirable?
Padlock says: Oct 5, 2009. 5:39 PM
The speed is about 1200 rpms, and it came out of a commercial HVAC blower. Instead of building a adjustable controller, I've toyed with the idea of building one with say, 4 or 5 set speeds. Then, with the help of some logic gates and SSRs, build some frequency dividers. However, that would mean the output is a square wave - will that have any effect on the operation of the motor?
chrwei says: Oct 8, 2009. 8:40 AM
inductive loads like motors and lights don't care about square waves.  most portable generators use square wave inverters and are made to run lights and power tools.
Padlock says: Oct 8, 2009. 3:44 PM
Ok. Thanks.
Taotaoba says: Oct 8, 2009. 7:50 AM
bongodrummer, you, AWESOME!

I've been keeping a scape motor taken from a broken garage opener. I knew I could use it somewhere. Now I know where it to go! Thanks a looooooooooooooot!
pfred2 says: Oct 8, 2009. 10:58 AM
Is the motor rated for continious duty? Garage door motors usually aren't!
pculbert says: Oct 8, 2009. 8:46 AM
Bongo,
Congratulations on this build and thanks so much for sharing it with us.  I'm quite gobsmacked by your imagination and building skills.  I want to build my own but every time I go to do laundry it will be sitting there staring at me-- unfinished. ;o(

Someone is going to ask so it might as well be me.  Do you have any thoughts on how you could get a Morse Taper into the head and tail stocks?  I wouldn't even know where to start.

Anyway, thanks again for sharing your skills.
DD
mark49 says: Oct 8, 2009. 7:40 AM
 This is an excellent Instructable! The imagination shown here is well worth reading. Anyone who can see an old sink and picture a motor housing has a fantastic imagination.
Great job!
RickO5 says: Oct 8, 2009. 7:31 AM
One of my favorite instructables. 5 Stars. 6 if I could.
twhaley says: Oct 8, 2009. 5:31 AM
Not too shabby!
Edgar says: Oct 8, 2009. 4:47 AM
Great, great stuff! :D
And the best part is, you can either pick a stronger engine and mill Aluminum, or, make wooden molds for Metal Casting, and, probably, finish the work on that Lathe!  
david_baines says: Oct 8, 2009. 4:05 AM
Congratulations on a wonderful instructable! Probably one of the best I've read. Its so positive, as well as being realistic. Most designs made from scraps have to be adapted to the materials available. Thanks for taking the time to consider so many of the different materials that others might be working with.

It's great to have all the 'optional' bits too, that makes a basic lathe more attainable for some folk, while allowing others to build consider a much more sophisticated design.

All the best.
dave_spike says: Oct 7, 2009. 10:21 AM
I've recently had the pleasure of using this lathe to turn part of a bowl, fantastic fun and immensely rewarding. Its defiantly on the list of things to do once I move into a larger house. Watch the evolution of the design and helping in source some parts showed how with a open approach this is a real alternative to purchasing a lathe. The end result is a unique and robust piece of kit that easily sits amongst quality store bought items.
Karroo Oakey says: Oct 6, 2009. 11:47 AM
uhhh...You're not Bongodrummer ........ Hell no, you're BONGOMASTER. Get your name changed to that. This is a brilliant 'able, and I wouldn't be surprised if the amount of time you spent on the 'able is greater than the time you spent on the lathe. It covers so many aspects, and different subjects that truly I am in a state of awe
SdaMaster says: Oct 5, 2009. 5:12 AM
if you build it you knowit will stand and be used and not break. If you buy who the **** knows!
148wmcquiston says: Oct 4, 2009. 10:48 PM
Excellent instructable. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a truck to haul the washing machine what tools do I need to retrieve the motor from it easily and unobtrusively. We have a law about snooping through other people's garbage to keep away homeless 5-cent bottle collectors (obviously it doesn't work).
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 5, 2009. 1:58 AM
lol. Before hacking it out I recommend asking the owner of the house it is left outside of!! If you explain what you are doing almost no one will say no. You will probably need a socket set (I can't remember what size the bolts are) and, if you going for speed, some wire cutters as well. Try and get as much of the wiring loom as you can - the wires will come in handy. The control board will also have some useful relays and bits on (take a variety of screwdrivers for this). Good luck, let me know how it goes.
domino88 says: Oct 4, 2009. 11:14 PM
This was a great project and a great write up. It was a pleasure to read it and see how you slaved the obstacles you faced. I really admire ingenious people like you. I loved your concluding thoughts... So true...
pyra_builder_1337 says: Oct 4, 2009. 1:57 PM
lul i likrd the end quote
Da_Fudge says: Oct 4, 2009. 1:55 AM
That is very cool!

Do you think it has enough power to do small metalworking jobs? I have been looking at buying a lathe for a while but this may be better!

I think I have one, possibly two, good motors at home!

The most promising one would be a motor from an old blender. It's 1000W, 3 speed settings, and has some hefty mounting plates already on the motor! It works fine, its just that the jug broke.

Second is a small (read ~ 300-750W) motor from a milkshake maker (this it it here http://cn1.kaboodle.com/hi/img/c/0/0/5d/6/AAAADPPOpxwAAAAAAF1vWw.jpg). Might be a bit weak, but it goes fast. Too fast. maybe a small pulley setup (3:1 maybe?) would be the perfect combo: Power and torque.

I will keep you posted.

Da_Fudge.
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 4, 2009. 6:21 AM
Thanks Da_Fudge, A metal lathe is a whole different ball game in terms of tool holding, tolerances, and so on. Check out some of the “Gingery” stuff on lathes - he wrote a book about making a metal lathe - it involves furnace casting metal to make all the parts. In terms of the motor, it is hard to say - what's the rpm rating on the blender one… It might be that it is designed to go super fast but will not have a great deal of torque. Also consider the noise it makes at that speed, even if you can gear it down it will still be screaming along at high rpm. The amount of time it is on is also worth considering. I think most blender motors are only rated for intermittent use - a half hour lathing session might be asking too much of it? Could be you had a full on industrial blender though?
peterwales says: Oct 3, 2009. 9:24 AM
Folks, I have seen this machine in action and a turned plate. Even had a go myself! It is very impressive, and looks very cool with the stainless steel and thick perspex cover. You could not buy a lathe like this in a store. Moreover - it all works a treat! And congratulations on some really helpful photographs and text. Article just shows how creative you can be in recycling materials for useful projects.
discontinuuity says: Oct 1, 2009. 5:23 PM
Pretty cool. I'm not quite clear how you attach the wood to the driveshaft though. Do you think a washing machine motor would work for an electric bicycle? Do you know what DC voltage it would work with?
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 3, 2009. 3:04 AM
Discontinuuity, my bench tests suggest a washing machine motor would not be particularly useful (power wise) until you get up to about 40V. Still, I think it would be a bit hefty for a bike anyway. Probably better off seeking out a permanent magnet (PM) motor - If you can find an ex-military one (they replace them often and use them in all sorts of things) they may have neodymium magnets, and a higher energy density... See what you can find - but I would defo go PM for a bike.. I answered you other query in a different post.
photozz says: Oct 2, 2009. 6:50 PM
If you can find a motor out of an old treadmill, that would work the best.
trx1 says: Oct 8, 2009. 6:48 AM
I agree.  People give away working ones for free. These are variable speed DC motors that use use PWM speed controllers with speed sensors to maintain the set speed. Some motors are rated up to 2.5 hp but the PWM speed controller probably limits you to somewhere around 1 hp. The possibilities for home-built power tools is endless. I'm going to build a thickness sander with a couple motors and also planning on re-powering my drill press with one of these motors. I've started a nice collection of treadmills (my wife took the nicest one to use as a....treadmill of all things).

On a side note, it does look like the motor in this build is a DC motor since it has brushes and most likely had some sort of speed controller but is probably integrated into the rest of the washing machine controls.
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 3, 2009. 2:59 AM
Yep, these tend to be good little things. Might still be a tad big and heavy for a push bike though? Actually just finished converting an old 3 phase pillar drill to run off one of these.. Runs nice!
phinch says: Oct 2, 2009. 10:44 AM
A washing machine motor wont work off dc, you have to feed it ac. You can use a big inverter, but it might be easier to find a dc motor.
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 3, 2009. 3:02 AM
Phinch, I disagree. Most (but not all) common washing machine motors run of DC nicely. These series wound motors are known as 'universal motors' because they work with both AC and DC. I used DC current, for example, to run the lathe in this project (for all the reasons specified in the Instructable).
phinch says: Oct 29, 2009. 11:05 PM
Interesting, I did not know that. That's a great source of DC motors then. I wonder how the efficiency is affected...
LuiTuga says: Oct 2, 2009. 6:02 PM
I think you did a great job with this, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Your lathe is no more dangerous then a store bought one, lathes in general are dangerous tools. Continue to keep stuff away from the landfill and enjoy that great felling that comes to you when you say "yup, I built that and it works perfect". Big thumbs up for your work!
brokengun says: Oct 2, 2009. 12:38 PM
Awesome job! Good to see that you were able to make something so nice with your creation. It's one thing to say you built a lathe and it's another thing to actually put it to practical use. Hope your lathe gets lots of use and brings you lots of good times.
humansimulator says: Oct 2, 2009. 12:26 PM
It's Instructables like these that make me antsy about when I can finally move out of my apartment and finally own a home of my own. More space for tinkering and building things. Oh well Student and Car loans first, then a home loan.
maruawe says: Oct 2, 2009. 11:04 AM
That will work for me ..
daithiocoinnigh says: Oct 1, 2009. 2:51 PM
Thats a beautiful bowl, what type of wood is it?
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 2, 2009. 10:18 AM
I believe it is Laburnum wood. A person who came to get some things off me (on freecycle) saw I was building a lathe and offered me some pieces of it he had been storing for 5 years. :)
oneboysurfing says: Oct 2, 2009. 6:32 AM
I love the step by step instructions and diagrams, very helpful. Is there a chance that a pottery wheel could be constructed by modifying the plans? Been looking for an Instructable that addresses pottery wheels.
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 2, 2009. 9:51 AM
Hi Oneboy,
I should imagine that would work very well, though some things that come to mind:
1) I don't know much about pottery, but it might be a bit of an overkill to use a 1 horse power washing machine motor (you will have to put up with the humming noise it makes at low speeds. 2) If you did adapt this design, you might want to modify the speed controller to get better resolution at slow speed, and prohibit the higher speeds. 3) Have you seen http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-variable-speed-pottery-wheel/? They use a old drill and sewing machine foot pedal to make a pottery wheel (not a very energy efficient solution but would probably work well enough).
Let us know how it goes...
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 2, 2009. 6:36 AM
Wow, thanks so much for the comments guys!! I really did enjoy making this, and learned loads, but seeing that people are sharing in that fun is just fantastic... Discontinuuity, I will try and address this in the 'able when I get some free time. I basically just screwed the work to the 'faceplate' (which was a part scavenged from the same assembly I took the bearings from). After initial 'shaping' of the outside I turned the bowl over and in some instances glued it to a round piece of ply, which was in turn screwed to the faceplate. I then sawed it off the ply when finished. Books I have read talk about putting a piece of paper between the ply and the bowl base when gluing, so you can get them apart easily -- The thought of a flying bowl put me off..
JamesRPatrick says: Oct 1, 2009. 8:43 PM
Love it!
scavanger says: Oct 1, 2009. 4:02 PM
Great job putting all that "junk" to a good use! You just have to love homemade tools
jongscx says: Oct 1, 2009. 3:34 PM
I want to build one... but my flat-mate would kill me... hmmm, time to dust off that 1/2 HP industrial I guess :-D
rimar2000 says: Oct 1, 2009. 3:09 PM
Wow! This is excellent! Congratulations.
kissiltur says: Oct 1, 2009. 2:55 PM
terrific stuff. I especially like the motor control details, and I can see using those for something else too!
lemonie says: Oct 1, 2009. 1:39 PM
Wonderful stuff.

L

(Pop a "c" into step "Aquiring")
masterochicken says: Oct 1, 2009. 11:04 AM
5 stars. I will remember this in the near future.
uguy says: Oct 1, 2009. 8:51 AM
Awesome Instructable! Well done. Thanks for sharing.
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!