Make your own Lathe from other peoples rubbish by bongodrummer
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The aim of this instructable is to make a wood lathe from recycled and scrap materials and use it to make some lovely things.

Why a lathe? You can use it to make beautiful birthday and Christmas pressies for family and friends and to craft all manner of things to help in other projects. To make yourself a load of wooden kitchen bowls, plates, utensils, etc. To make arrows, door and draw knobs, staffs, axles, beautiful ornaments, flower pots, light shades... The list is endless.

Making a lathe is fun! Designing one yourself and using free or cheap materials is even better.
This instructable shows how I did it. I got ideas from lots of places on the internet (including other instructables - do a search for 'lathe') and formulated my design as I collected materials.

This lathe is made almost exclusively from stuff other people threw away or didn't have use for anymore, and a big part of the challenge is creatively using these readily available materials. You will probably want to vary your own design from mine, as you will inevitably find you can get your hands on different bits. Don't worry though I will try my best to offer techniques and advice (including where the best places are to get stuff), anyway it is much more exciting when you have a hand in the design process. I would love to hear what you guys use to make your designs.

A more complete and up to date set of instructions for this project and videos of the lathe, and other bits and bobs can be found on our blog at: http://www.floweringelbow.co.uk


I use some basic power tools in making this, and I meddled (carefully!) with mains voltage, so the usual safety precautions must apply. Always wear eye and ear protection when using power tools and lung protection when making dust. Be very careful and get qualified help (if you need it) with main voltage etc.

The lathe itself can be very dangerous, following good practice, and designing in safety, is the best method of staying out of harms way. I will hopefully cover some of these points, but ultimately you're doing this at your own risk, so please take care!

 
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Step 1: Acquiring the motor

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For this you are either going to buy a motor, or scavenge and reuse one. Favouring the latter and more environmentally-friendly option, this instructable assumes you will scavenge one. The picture shows an old washing machine motor salvaged from a machine my parents were throwing out. These tend to be a good and surprisingly plentiful (keep your eyes out) source of one horsepower series wound commutator motors. It should provide plenty enough power to drive a small wood lathe like the one I am planning.

If you do get a washing machine motor try and grab the whole machine - then in the comfort of your own home you can take your time to work out how the wiring went. If like me you were on a time budget to get it away from your parents sub-Arctic outside shed just cut it out and get as much of the electronics as possible.

To extract the motor, turn the machine upside-down and you should be able to see the motor. It is now simply a case of unbolting it from its mountings.

These motors can be run off both DC and AC making them quite versatile little beasties.

In the picture I am testing the motor with a DC bench supply, made from an old computer PSU (power supply unit - check out Sitnalta's instructable). DO NOT CONNECT THE MOTOR TO MAINS VOLTAGE without any load attached. Series wound motors have no theoretical limit to their speed and the centrifugal forces can fling the motor armature apart! Even with a modest load a direct connection to 240V mains is a bad idea, as the speeds are likely to strain the bearings, brushes and frame - all of which are not designed for unlimited power without a hefty mechanical load.

Another way to test a motor of this sort without a bench-top supply is to attach a 1000W electric heater wire between the brushes. The current passing through the resistance wire should be enough to limit the speed of the motor.
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Sneezus says: Jan 22, 2013. 11:36 AM
Hello, I have been wanting to build my own lathe too. I have viewed your steps and they are very helpful! I do have a taper bearing I found laying around in my toolbox. How would I go about mounting/using it? It's just the bearing, no cap or housing or anything. Still works nicely and since I am looking into doing heavier project loads I will benefit from the taper bearing and not break the bicycle shaft/bearings like in you photo. Thank you very much so far!
NATIVEBOY says: Jan 15, 2013. 5:57 PM
what other type of motors can you use?
bongodrummer (author) says: Jan 16, 2013. 3:25 AM
Many. Almost anything over 1/4 horse power, depending on how you are planning to use your lathe. Each different type will require different speed control systems (eg. induction motors will need an inverter or belt change system)... If you have a scrapped/spare motor in mind try googling it...
flashedmomuse says: Oct 27, 2012. 1:00 AM
First off i would like to say what an amazing job you have done. i am in the process of making a lathe following your design. second I'm interested in turning a plastic material such as a PVC or electrical conduit for a project in progress. any tips?
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 27, 2012. 10:50 AM
Hi Flashedmomuse,
Cool, post a pic and let us know how it turns out...

Not sure on the pvc front - if it is conduit, you may find it difficult to chuck up and turn without it flexing about a lot. A length of wood turned to size and pushed inside the pipe might help you...

It might take some experimentation. If you are going to try with hand tools (in the same way you would turn wood), I am not sure how easily it would be to take fine cuts on PVC without the tool 'digging in'. A fixed cutting tool and holder would probably be much better. Saying that I would probably give it a go - just make sure the cutting tool is sharp and you are using good technique (it makes a big difference as to whether you will 'dig in' and ruin the work piece or not) so practice on scraps first. Read/watch plenty of turning tutorials before you start making shavings.
Good luck.
123alex123 says: Oct 11, 2012. 10:47 AM
hi, id just like to say this is one of the best instructables on a wood lathe i have seen. i soon am going to be makeing my own wood lathe from scrap parts as i dont want to spend much on it. as for the safety issue, so called experts dont always know what there talking about. im sure as you was able to build this you must be able to judge how safe it is. for my moter im going to be using and old pillar drill so itll have pullys and belt but i dont mind this to begin with. i am wondering however about how to attach the face plate to the drive? or did i miss this in the instructions?
bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 11, 2012. 2:53 PM
Hi Alex, Thanks for your feedback. The faceplate is attached to the shaft simply with a number of set screws (three to be precise). Where they tighten onto the shaft, I drilled a small notch for them to engage with.
I was lucky in that I found the faceplate with the old motor I used for the spindle shaft... It fit perfectly...
Good luck with you lathe - would love to see an instructable or slideshow of your work :)
Cheers,
B.
tinker234 says: Nov 28, 2011. 5:22 PM
wow could i use it for metal eventually
bongodrummer (author) says: Nov 29, 2011. 1:05 AM
Probably not without substantial design modifications. As it is it simply would not hold the tolerances required by a metal lathe - It is not stiff or rigid enough and doesn't have a tool holder. You would probably want the spindle to be much closer to the bed for a metal lathe, so the flex between the cutting tool and the work piece would be less.
Thanks for the comment - good luck!
padeutsche says: May 14, 2012. 8:12 PM
You could use it as a roughing lathe, that way it save wear and tear on a regular metal lathe, some big shops do this, they rough out the piece on a manual lathe then they do the final precision work on their cnc, it save wear and tear on the very expensive CNC, and time actually since it saves time on set up and removing all those tool path steps and saves the wear and tear on the tooling as well and having to set up the tool holders.
tinker234 says: Dec 3, 2011. 10:43 AM
your welcome i cant wait to make my own lathe
skaar says: Aug 27, 2011. 4:29 AM
perhaps a relay with a lower voltage coil, a few more parts to regulate mains to it? might make the difference, if someone can't scrounge the high volt coil relay.
stoneground1 says: Mar 20, 2011. 4:42 PM
I gotta say this has been one of the best instructables i have ever had the pleasure to come across!! Kudos Bongo!!! I love the scavenging!! I seem to find myself using things out of broken or discarded "machinery" also. A piece here, a piece there and viola something else! Haha!! Great ingenuity you got there!! Thank you for all the pics also!! I have seen too many instructables with only a handful of pics and not enough description of the build. I realize this is an older build but do you still use it and have you done any upgrades to it? I'm in the process(designing phase) of building a lathe myself but i really would like to have one i can turn aluminum on. Granted it would have to be much,much beefier!! Well enough of my rambling. Again thank you for the build and your ingenious insight!! Peace!!!
bongodrummer (author) says: Mar 21, 2011. 1:49 AM
Hay Stoneground. Thanks for the nice comment :D
I actually lent the lathe to a friend about a year ago now. I have been thinking about making a new one, for turning absolutely massive stuff - one day...

There are mods I would do to this one, if I was building it over again. Like I would build in some kind of 'feedback' into the motor speed regulation - so that I could get better speed control under variable loads - It is quite annoying the way it slows down when you are roughing out a blank with some 'vigour'. And I did always intend to make a digital display of the spindle rpm, using the motor's built in tachometer...

Anyway, your post has reminded me that at some point I should get the lathe back from my friend - It has been away so long, it is now quite difficult to find a space for it in the workshop now ;-)

Are you planning to use scrap for you lathe? If you want any feedback on your metal lathe designs, I would be happy to take a look.
Thanks again, B.
pheenix42 says: Feb 2, 2011. 6:55 PM
TOP SHELF effort, sir, no doubt! (^_^)
skwoorl says: Jan 30, 2011. 6:41 PM
What are you using as a chuck to hold your workpiece?
bongodrummer (author) says: Jan 31, 2011. 1:28 AM
Hi Skwoorl, I wasn't using a chuck - rather a face plate, that the work (or a disk of ply, that the work is glued to) can be screwed to. There is an old video knocking on youtube that shows this (you could find it from my blog). A chuck would be nice mind you...
7862Tony says: Nov 21, 2010. 12:19 PM
Since when BRUSH Motors are used in Washing Machines??. The capacitor in the picture is the starting cap not used in brushed motors. I really love to see such motor run on DC.
guds777 says: Jul 11, 2010. 4:07 PM
An electrician told me when you has a brushed motor you don't need a capiscor.
bongodrummer (author) says: Aug 3, 2010. 1:47 AM
It is true that you don't need a big 'run capacitor' in the same way an induction motor would. Depends how you set it up though, chances are you will use one or more somewhere along the line, brushed or not...
Bodygard1117 says: Aug 2, 2010. 7:28 PM
rust dust
bongodrummer (author) says: Aug 3, 2010. 1:45 AM
Indeed?
moshee says: May 8, 2010. 7:36 AM
 Should I trust the values/part numbers on the schematic or the parts list? D2, R1, R2, and R3 seem to conflict.
bongodrummer (author) says: May 8, 2010. 12:47 PM
 Hi Moshee. Thanks for pointing that one out, not sure how that slipped through.  Trust the values in the text parts list - the schematic has gone 'funny'..
Cheers, B. 
moshee says: May 8, 2010. 1:15 PM
Sounds good, thanks for the reply.

Great instructable, too :)
Simpson_jr says: Apr 7, 2010. 2:06 AM
Thank you all for watching another episode of "The second life of Machines".
It's great, although I'd also advice people inspired to be cautious, 1hp or 240AC can do a lot of irreversible damage.

Already made some bongos with it ?

bongodrummer (author) says: Apr 7, 2010. 3:22 AM
Quite right Care is needed....
No, no bongos yet ;)
rorymcstay says: Mar 22, 2010. 3:00 PM
 your a genius :). i loved the home made tap
lasersage says: Mar 26, 2010. 2:33 AM
which home made tap? I must've missed that bit

Looked like a good instructable. Loving the solid state speed control. My lathe has a belt but the two pulley don't match so I'm constantly having to adjust the motor mount to get an appropriate tension when changing speed. Tedious.

I guess now you need a nice tailstock to turn between centres and you'll be totally versatile  :)
sotoj159 says: Mar 14, 2010. 7:33 PM
could you use a dryer motor?
bongodrummer (author) says: Mar 15, 2010. 1:39 AM
Possibly. Though I don't think it would likely be as powerful... Depends what kind you have?
maverick1952 says: Oct 1, 2009. 11:10 AM
Hey go to a Harbour Freight store and buy a lathe for 99 dollars and get a set of tools about 20 dollars also go to web site for 20% off coupon.You could have slowed down your motor with a pulley with multiple groves on both ends .You spend more than that on sheet metal in that contraption.I all for building stuff but your dangerous.
msw100 says: Feb 28, 2010. 6:56 AM
Yeh  because there are Harbour Freight stores in the UK. did the Maplins store not tell you anything noobhead.The instructable came from Wales in the UK
Why don,t you read the instructable before shouting your mouth off.
Irritable_Badger says: Feb 27, 2010. 11:28 AM
As a long time wood worker I can tell you that cheap gouges (lathe tools) can be extremely dangerous. Unseen stress points and internal voids common in cheap steel can cause the tool to explode when it catches (and it WILL catch). I've seen two accidents caused by using cheap gouges and both involved trips to the emergency room.

Also cheap tools anneal easily when you sharpen them on the grinder, causing you to constantly have to resharpen the tools.

Making your own lathe is fun and can save you a few hundred dollars but don't screw around with cheap gouges.
hapidan says: Oct 2, 2009. 1:53 PM
Actually, this lathe is probably of better quality than the stuff from Harbor Freight. I find their machinery to be poorly constructed and out of balance(which is a disaster for a lathe and potentially dangerous). They are great for random tools and one time use stuff but avoid the machinery. Great job making your own lathe. If you feel up to it, try making a Longworth chuck to go with it.
pfred2 says: Oct 8, 2009. 11:21 AM
I have a few Horrible Fright machines and while they're not top industrial quality I find them all to be serviceable. Their 4x6 bandsaw is legendary. I've had mine now for over 15 years and have personally sawn 90# railroad track in half with it among many other materials. Some of their hand power tools do leave a bit to be desired to me though.

 Lathes are easily balanced and are often called upon to turn unbalanced jobs. It is called using balancing weights. Beyond that all lathes can be potentially extremely dangerous, it is just physics. So I'm not too sure what your point is with your comment. Personal vendetta against HF maybe?

bongodrummer (author) says: Oct 2, 2009. 6:50 AM
Hi Maverick,
I agree with Shantinath and Kearney's comments on this, but I would like to know in what way you thought it particularly dangerous? I could think of a million ways it is dangerous, but it is all about assessing the risks and making a considered judgement right? I have lots to learn, so it maybe you have spotted something I missed or didn't think carefully enough about?

thanks for the comments..
shantinath1000 says: Oct 1, 2009. 3:28 PM
While you are right that there are cheaper ways to get a lathe and that this is potentially more dangerous than store bought the real point here is that HE made it and HE gets enjoyment from that fact and from the process of building as well. Also through his sharing what he did I get enjoyment from seeing a job well done. An all to rare thing these days.
kearney says: Oct 1, 2009. 11:36 AM
I think you're missing the point here maverick. It seems to me that all of the material in this project except maybe the triac were scavenged, making it cost much, much less than the $120 you quote for the price of a cheap lathe. It also provided the opportunity to learn the concepts behind how a wood lathe operates and some basic motor control theory. Your argument that this is dangerous is somewhat confusing as well. Yes, there are aspects of this project that are potentially fatal if not handled correctly (i.e. wiring for mains current and building a tool that operates at 400-200 rpm), but these are addressed by the author and the final project minimizes those risks as much as is possible. This is a very well written instructable with a clever and useful tool the end result. Please read through the whole thing before making comments as to how silly the project is. Remember, this is instructables, not buyables.
dynamodan says: Oct 2, 2009. 7:01 AM
Not to mention the $99 lathe from HF doesn't have that sophisticated solid-state speed controller! Great job on the lathe.
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