Introduction: Making 3d Printed Lamp Pendants
I inherited an old pendant lamp from my mother and the thing used to devour traditional light bulbs. Another issue I had with it is the fact that the original brass pendant didn't really spread the light well around the room, so there would be a bright spot under it and the rest of the room would be dark.
So after I purchased my Dremel Idea builder I decided to print a replacement.
For this project I purchased PETG 1.75 mm. (I should note here the printing temp for PETG [230-250] is a little hotter than normally used on the Dremel which uses a recommended PLA [215-230] so it was a little iffy at first but worked out).
I also assumed that replacing traditional incandescent bulbs with LED's would also reduce the temp and make it safe to use these together. I have no scientific data to back this up but, I have had the new pendants in with the LED bulbs for 10 months with no issue. I purchased dim-able LED bulbs as well since the lamp is set up for that.
I did not make any changes to the electrical portion of the lamp.
Step 1: Measure and Then Tinker CAD
I measured the existing pendant to get a general concept of the size of the project and make sure it would fit in my printer.
Then I took precise measurements of the hole in the back of the pendant. I wanted this to be firm against the threads so it keeps it tight on the retaining nut and keep it evenly spaced away from the bulb.
Next I opened my browser and went over to TinkerCAD.com.
I signed in (duh) and opened a new project and scaled the grid to match my printing platform (9 inches (x)wide, 5.5 (y)long. and 5.5 (z)tall, this isn't reflected in the grid but keep it in mind.)
Step 2: Drill Bit Baby
So the object I used from the community shapes is called Drill.
The bell I want to be 4 inches wide and the whole thing will be 5 inches tall.
For this first item I made it 1/8" smaller than the desired this will be the interior to hollow out the next object.
Copy and paste the first object and using the Ruler tool adjust the size 1/8" bigger. (see notes for more info.)
Select both objects and use the align tool match centers along the X and Y axis. (See notes for more info)
after you get your objects aligned group them. This will create a 1/8" shell. Spin it around to make sure there are no holes where you were not expecting them. You will also notice that the bottom is still enclosed as well. We will open this object up in the next step and build the neck.
Step 3: Coming Out of the Shell and Putting the Neck on the Line.
I created a box that was deeper than the portion protruding through the grid, and wider than the base of the pendant.
Select both objects an group them together and then check out your opening. Check again for holes it will be easier to see them from the inside looking out.
Next create a simple cylinder 1/8" bigger than the hole in the previous pendant, and taller than the tip of the shell. Make sure you have everything aligned, select all items and group. You have no cut out the hole for our neck.
Next create another cylinder 1/8th and little more (just enough to meld the shell and the neck together cleanly so there are no gaps. This also will need to be tall enough to make our final height 5".
Create another cylinder and make it the exact size of the hole for the threads in the lamp. This need to run completely through top and bottom of the first cylinder we created since the last group, make sure you have everything aligned, select it all and group one last time.
Export for the file type you need depending on the printer or software you are using and print away!!!!
Step 4: All Done!!!
Here is a look the filament and the final product after it was printed out.
I worked out far better than I thought and the LED's have not melted one of my print outs yet, the light is on almost constantly and has been in place for 10 months.
I did initially loose one of these to an incandescent bulb while testing it, so while not scientific I have some experience.
Hope you got something out of this.
Thank you again.
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