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Making A Fridge Compressor Into A Vacuum Pump

Step 3Putting the Pieces Together.

Putting the Pieces Together.
One the out tube, I cut the squeezed end off and reamed out the opening for a good air flow. You will see that this opening is not very large, so bigger is better. (This makes me think that I should remove the small line altogether and just use the larger pipe - More CFM.)

I installed a piece of 1/4 inch copper tubing over the out pipe and soldered it in place. I then bent the pipe up to a level higher then the top of the compressor and installed the tennis ball.

The tennis ball is slightly modified by puncturing holes and being stuffed with scraps of rags before installation. It works as an oil vapor collector and muffler at the same time. The compressor is very quiet, but with the ball, there is no noise from it at all.

As a note, some people use these compressors as compressors for air brushing with paint. The install a proper oil collector inline and from this they run a line to the air brush for painting.

On the In pipe I just straightened the pipe out so that it ran horizontal and cut the squeezed end off with the pipe cutter.

I have gone a bit cheap on this section right now because it was late at night and the stores were closed, and I can.

I took a piece of 1/4 I.D. plastic and hot glued it to the pipe. It can be easily cut off later if desired, but will be good to run a few tests.

The wiring is pretty straight forward - follow the diagram on the box the switch came in. The wires run into the junction box, attach the wires to the switch, attach the switch to the box, then put on the cover plate.

The starting capacitor it left as is and should not be altered.
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7 comments
Jul 29, 2009. 8:55 PMyotnomuk says:
i've got a couple ofquestion. im using a fridge compressor to replace the motor on my 1.5 hp 3 gallon craftsman so that the whole setup is quieter, the switch turns on below 90 psi and off at 125 psi. the question is , do i need a starting capacitor for this setup and should i put a check valve on the "out" line so that the pressure in the air tank does not back up to the compressor? thanks
Jun 20, 2011. 5:05 PMSkipper333333 says:
Hi
As far as the capacitor goes the one already on your unit should be fine. And a check valve is always needed to separate the tank from the compressor. Otherwise the pump is too hard to rotate and may not start (trip breakers or stall).
When the compressor gets up to pressure (cut out) and shuts off, the line from the pump to the tank will bleed down its pressure through the pump allowing the pump to start easier.
I used to repair air compressors.
Aug 9, 2011. 12:50 PMuberdum05 says:
Or you can get valves which I think are called something on the lines of an unloading valve which sits between the tank and compressor so that as soon as the compressor stops the tank is sealed and the air line bled. If you ever listen to a compressor that is what the sharp hiss is after the motor stops :)
Jul 31, 2009. 8:08 AMyotnomuk says:
I started this project after watching this videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpPpi_Z7ja0&feature=related and it looks very promising. thanks for your help. just have one more question, what kind of oil do i use to replace the compressor oil, are they common in hardware store(home depot/menards)?
Feb 8, 2012. 10:25 PMDeeg says:
Where did you add the oil? Into the air-intake tube?
Feb 9, 2012. 9:26 AMDeeg says:
Nevermind, I'm a dork. I totally missed the maintenance step.
Sep 19, 2010. 3:05 PMjaaz95 says:
k mine didn't have a wiring diagram on it. so how do i wire it up? it has the two main black coards for main power, then 3 red, white and blue wires that i have no idea what they do. also how strong of a capacitor do you need to start it?
May 6, 2009. 9:35 AMkelseymh says:
Very nice! Not everyone on this site is electrically experienced (or competent). If you could, I think it would be very helpful to expand your Step 3 (or add steps between 3 and 4) which include some closeups inside your Handy Box, showing the wiring connections to the switch. You might also consider (for safety :-) using a plastic quad-size Handy Box to enclose the startup cap as well, and then run the power cord out through a grommeted and strain-releived knockout.
May 6, 2009. 11:16 AMLithium Rain says:
Stuff and nonsense, it's not that complicated - the red wire and the black one do exactly the same thing, it doesn't matter if the main is on or not, and people who tell you to check the voltage are just wusses.
May 6, 2009. 7:08 PMhiggrobot says:
I nominate Lithium Rain for today's Darwin Award
May 6, 2009. 9:47 PMkelseymh says:
I'd invite her to the awards ceremony, but it's well known that the winners are always late. >ba-da-bing<
Feb 22, 2010. 9:11 PMlukeyj15 says:
 ha....ha.....ha

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