Step 3: More Foaming and Eyes
1. The eyebrow ridges are usually a good place to go next. These are where your mask will get most of its facial expression, so unlike the cheeks it's good to be a little - even a lot - more generous with how much they stick out. It'll look silly on the unfurred mask but the finished product will look a lot more expressive if you do this.
2. Installing the taxidermy eyes.
- First, prepare the eyes by cutting out a small piece of foam to make the backs of them straight (usually they're concave at the back). Glue the foam onto the eyes.
- Cut a thin strip of electrician's tape and wind it around the outside of the eyes to make a seal between the sides of the taxidermy eyes and the foam.
- Use (fake) leather to make eyelids. You can change the expression of the eyes by making the eyelids different shapes. Fold a piece of (fake) leather over and stick them onto the eyes with a glue gun.
- Make the tear ducts by cutting them out of canvas/buckram and colouring the material black with a Prismacolor marker (or similar artist's marker). These should be oversized and run under the eyes as well as to the side of them because they will be the source of your vision. Stick them to the eyes using a small amount of glue.
- Install the eyes by sticking them to the underside of the eyebrow ridge with the glue gun. Symmetry is very important here, a squinting mask isn't such a great idea. Try to install them so their point of focus is a few feet in front of the mask's face.
3. Foaming the muzzle
- This is very much like the cheeks and eyebrow ridges, only more difficult. Remember to make it smaller and more angular than you want your finished mask to be. Leave a hole in the front for the nose to sit.
- If you make the lower jaw separately from the upper jaw, you can also leave a slit between the two and use it for ventilation. Cut your balaclava so that this is possible. I can even have a drink in mine!
- Make ears either out of foam or plastic canvas. I covered mine in a pinkish velvet material.