Step 4: Transfer the File to the Board

If you are using a milling machine to produce the boards you may have the files you need at this point, or you may have some file manipulations to do first. But when the board comes out of the milling machine it is done ( assuming the milling machine does the drilling as well, and of course you may need to trim the board to size as well )

But maybe you are using “toner transfer”. In this case you print the image of the file on paper and then use heat to transfer the design to the board. There are a bunch of different ways to do this, at the simple end just a clothes iron, at the work well end us a lamina tor. The board is then placed in a chemical enchant to remove the unwanted copper.

Somewhat like toner transfer is using special boards coated with an optically sensitive etchant resist material. You print a negative of your design on a clear material and expose the negative and board to the right kind and amount of light. The board is then developed and ready to go into the enchant. If you mess up this step you can clean up the board and have a bare board, perhaps you can re coat with the optical resist.

You can also use spray paint as a resist. Remove it by using a laser cutter in etch mode.

Instructable Links:

* Two sided PCB using toner method – https://www.instructables.com/id/Two-sided-PCB-using-toner-method/

* Cheap and Easy Toner Transfer for PCB Making – https://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Easy-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/

* How to make 2-sided Printed Circuit Boards -- https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-2-sided-Printed-Circuit-Boards/

* How to make a printed circuit board (PCB) using the UV light LED method. -- https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-printed-circuit-board-PCB-using-th/

* UV LED Exposure Box – https://www.instructables.com/id/UV-LED-Exposure-Box/

* Simple UV lightbox for PCBs – https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-UV-lightbox-for-PCBs/

<p>Nice 'ible'</p><p>The problem with any on-line supplier/manufacturer, it still takers at least 48hrs to get boards from time of order (overnight shipping is exorbitant cost wise so finsihed part isn't cheap)</p><p>For impatient or frugal, Fritzing is good layout software, plus, it's free. You can design on a 'breadboard' and it will convert to a PCB schematic</p>
<p>I think you should place order for your required PCB at <br>pcbmaking.com and I m sure you will get your job done quickly on affordable <br>price. It provides professional PCB with Free shipping and big discount price. <br>Good luck!</p>
<p>Really nice work, </p><p>Looking for more information from you....</p><p>:)</p>
Although I drill holes with a dremel in hands or even with a vertical stand, most of times I make holes with a punch tool like this. My punch tool has 1mm and 0.6mm diameter tips and works great with single face phenolite boards. <br>https://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FY5/TPOU/H9SZMDLI/FY5TPOUH9SZMDLI.SQUARE.jpg
Great work.!! Now that you have your board why don't you try the dry film solder mask? The green stuff. Is very easy to use and your boards will be comparable as the professional pcb makers. <br> <br>Is very useful for boards that use smd components, after you apply the green coat soldering is very easy <br> <br>you can buy it at ebay here: <br> <br> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynamask-5000-dry-film-solder-mask-/271020895325?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item3f1a1aac5d
Love this! Great work Russ! I agree with Mr. Moose, we should have a DIY PCB symposium at AS220 Labs.
Just a question, in etching, do you just put the design on the PCB, and then put it in the etching material? I'm interested in doing Arduino projects, and would like to be able to make a cheap board.
Oops, didn't read the whole thing now I get it. Except, tinning, is that the metal plates around the connector and where the processor/microprocessor sits?
Not quite sure I get the question, most of the boards here do not have a microcontroller. In any case I am not sure what the &quot;metal plates&quot; are, you may be referring to the &quot;copper pour&quot; area. In this technique the conductors are more or less formed by small areas where the copper is removed to insulate the conductors rather than just put coper to make the conductors.
All I was asking was what tinning was. By metal plates I meant the metal around the connections.
Tinning is adding metal over the copper to protect it against corrosion and make it accept solder more easily. Usually a chemically deposited layer of tin. Some people also add a layer called solder mask which stops solder from adhering where you do not want it. <br> <br>The area around connections are called &quot;pads&quot;.
DesignSparkPCB (http://www.designspark.com/knowledge/pcb) is the hobbyists answer to the free version of Eagle. <br>It is freeware, and has a lot of nice features that Eagle lacks, with none of the free version constraints. If youre familiar with Eagle youll have no trouble finding youre way around it.
Great Guide Russ!
Nice overview, I like the idea of hackerspace fabrication.
We are working on that. Anyone who thinks they might like to attend should contact me either thru instructables or the link at as220.
Nice work Russ. Do you think AS220 could have a symposium on this so others could share their experiences?

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Bio: For now see me at: http://www.opencircuits.com/User:Russ_hensel
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