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This flute design is a common one on the net, and for good reason. Not only is it simple to build, it's also relatively simple to learn and rewarding to play. It only took a month of on and of playing to be relatively proficient (meaning I could get a clean sound from the first two octaves without difficulty.) The flutes are keyed instruments and only play in one scale (without more complex fingerings) which is actually a plus when just noodling around since you can't easily hit a note outside of the major scale of that flutes key.

My G flute can hit about 2 octaves easily and 2.5 octaves if you push it. My D fife can hit 2 octaves. There are already a number of good sites out there on how to make flutes, but I thought I would add some of my experiences making my own flute collection that haven't been addressed.

For a primer of how to play a PVC flute check out my website: How to Flute
 
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Step 1: Design

I used tested designs for my flutes which I found with construction information on Pete Kosel's flute page.

I made a G flute as originally designed and a CPVC D fife to which I also made a modified version. The G flute works great as is, but I was having a lot more trouble playing the fife. It was very difficult to reach into the second octave. Part of the problem I found was to do with the thin walls of the 1/2 inch CPVC. To create for thicker walls with the same pipe, I decided to add a lip plate (like those used on metal flutes) made out of a 1/2 inch CPVC connector.

I also made some original flute designs out of the same material as the G flute but higher pitched in the keys of A and C. These are both easier to play in the bottom octave, but take more coaxing to push into the second octave, especially for the C flute.

To make your own designs or to adapt these designs to different PVC tubing or drill sizes, the flutomat is a handy tool that automatically calculates the hole placement from the tubing specs, drill sizes and key you would like to play in.
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FlutePlayer says: Feb 6, 2013. 7:26 AM
Hi! For an event for Science Olympiad I am making a PVC flute. I have to be able to play the C scale. I was wondering how to put in the b flat thumb key. I play the flute in band and I know from experience that I have to have that key in order to play a couple of notes. Any ideas on how to put it in and where? I don't want to mess it up too much and make a big mistake. Any suggestions would be FANTASTIC!!!!!
FlutePlayer in reply to FlutePlayerFeb 6, 2013. 7:27 AM
P.S. It is in a low octave. The lowest C is a middle C
JstDoIt says: Nov 19, 2012. 6:09 PM
I attempted to create a PVC Flute in the key of C. For some reason instead of the nice flute sound I get an ugly, airy tone. I followed the instructions...any suggestions?
Jnkyrdguy (author) in reply to JstDoItNov 21, 2012. 5:25 PM
The shape of the embouchure is critical for playability and tone, so that's probably the best place to start. Recheck to make sure the edge of the hole is burr free, sharp and at the right angle. Finding the best angle and shape may take some experimentation which is a great excuse to make a couple more flutes in different keys! Also look for air leaks. This shouldn't be as likely a problem with PVC as it is with wood, but any cracks or air leaks will make the flute impossible to play.

Overall, these flutes do tend to be on the 'woody' side compared to a modern metal flute that can get to the more pure sine wave sound that most people associate with the flute. If you're new to playing the flute it may just be a matter of practice.. it takes some chops to play well so keep at it!
lesizz says: Jul 7, 2011. 11:43 AM
I currently play a recorder, so this looks like a nice project for me to expand my skills. I suppose many of the principles described here could be used with other materials such as wood.
There are drill bits made specifically for plastic. They don't grab, and drill through smoothly. I've found that the type with the sharp point leave the smootest hole.
http://www.acrylicbirdcages.com/plastic_working_tools.htm
dung0beetle says: Jan 4, 2009. 10:59 PM
you can make a saxophone too, just omit the embochure and add a 45 degree angle joint and a tenor mouthpiece. (use larger stock for the sax and cut it a bit shorter sounds just like the real thing) I have a bamboo saxophone and it is awesome, just used red hot metal rods to make the holes. Nice instructable! Everyone go grab a saw! There are tons of pipes under the sink!
Pryo Chain in reply to dung0beetleFeb 24, 2011. 7:22 PM
Brilliant! Now... could you perhaps MAKE a mouthpiece, ligature, and reed? From scratch?
dung0beetle in reply to Pryo ChainFeb 26, 2011. 9:58 PM
You could, but it's so cheap to buy them. Unless you plan to make a lot of them, it isn't worth the cost of casting materials.
jimstoffel in reply to dung0beetleJan 7, 2009. 7:14 AM
Great Instructable! And thanks for link. @dung0bettle: Do you have notes on how to make the "bamboo saxophone"?
etymological says: Jan 15, 2009. 11:43 AM
I have a friend who makes beautiful self-tuned bamboo flutes with a similar method.
Pryo Chain in reply to etymologicalFeb 24, 2011. 7:14 PM
Is his name William Miller?
salomon1996 says: Feb 4, 2011. 9:40 AM
ok, so I made a g flute, and when i try to play it, I get REALY dizzy, any suggestions? thanks!
Jnkyrdguy (author) in reply to salomon1996Feb 5, 2011. 8:56 PM
You don't need to blow very hard or use much air to get a sound. You may just be breathing too often and/ or too deep and hyperventilating. This is easy to do when you start... you'll get more efficient with practice.

Breathing to play a wind instrument is not very intuitive in the beginning. Focus on where and how deep your breaths are and it will start to feel more natural in no time. And take it slow sticking to short playing sessions while you build up your stamina. It's a lot more work than you would think breathing in and out could be!
salomon1996 in reply to JnkyrdguyFeb 6, 2011. 6:34 AM
Thanks, that helps! :D
feralin says: Nov 28, 2010. 6:42 PM
Hi! Is it possible to make a good flute with only a saw, sandpaper, and drills? (and PVC too, obviously!). I do not have any needle files (or ANY files, for that matter). I really want to make a flute like yours, but I do not have a lot of materials!
Jnkyrdguy (author) in reply to feralinNov 29, 2010. 7:20 AM
It's definitely possible. You will have to be even more careful when drilling the embouchure hole to make sure it's clean and angled the right amount. A few practice runs in some scrap would help a lot to get a feel for it.
Capt. Kidd says: Apr 29, 2010. 4:52 PM
its called an embouchure plate. not a lip plate.
Bodygard1117 in reply to Capt. KiddSep 14, 2010. 7:35 PM
it doesn't matter what you call it all that matters is how it works. and calling it the correct name isn't going to make it sound any different.
modhomeecteacher says: Jul 17, 2010. 6:57 AM
I need a little help in drilling or cutting holes in a section of PVC pipe that I'm going to make into an umbrella stand (to sit next to the front door for umbrellas, not the kind used for outdoor patio umbrellas). I need to cut different sized circles all around for decoration. Is it possible? Do I need to go buy a vice clamp?
Kryptonite says: Mar 10, 2010. 10:06 PM
Wow that's awesome, I play flute and would love one of these for school or other places where I can't take my real one.
cdousley says: Dec 26, 2009. 9:07 AM
cool but a cant get sound out of flutes
Jnkyrdguy (author) in reply to cdousleyDec 26, 2009. 2:16 PM
Here's a playing guide I made a while back. Hopefully it'll have some helpful tips: www.thewidgetforge.com/projects/flute/howtoflute.html
cdousley in reply to JnkyrdguyDec 27, 2009. 8:05 PM
ty. could i use 3/4 sckedule 40 pipe?
Jnkyrdguy (author) in reply to cdousleyDec 28, 2009. 7:38 AM
It should work about the same. You'll have to adjust the dimensions from the "recipe" on Pete Kosel's page though since the walls will be thinner and the inside diameter larger. You can use this calculator to come up with the hole positions:  http://www.cwo.com/~ph_kosel/flutomat.html (I think it defaults to the correct setup for a D flute with schedule 40 pipe so you may not even have to mess with the settings)
cdousley in reply to JnkyrdguyDec 29, 2009. 1:44 PM
i made a small one out of 1/2 inch pipe today dosent work to well
sjoobbani says: Dec 25, 2009. 12:47 PM
HELP: so from what I understood, the pipe you are using is 1/2 in. I can't manage to find what the length of the flute you are using is, and which one can make the most variation, and best sound. what diameter? what length? where did you drill your holes when you made it? if you would care to give these examples.. that would be greatly appreciated. sjoobbani@gmail.com
Jnkyrdguy (author) in reply to sjoobbaniDec 26, 2009. 2:07 PM
All the dimensions for the flutes I've built can be found here: www.cwo.com/~ph_kosel/designs.html

The G flute he describes is definitely my favorite. It can easily play 2 full octaves and sounds strong throughout that range.
sjoobbani in reply to JnkyrdguyDec 26, 2009. 4:55 PM
i'm sorry, this isn't very clear to me, where do you drill the holes.. and how big?
Jnkyrdguy (author) in reply to sjoobbaniDec 27, 2009. 12:28 PM
He gives the dimensions I used about 3/4s down the page in the table titled "G flute from 1/2 inch schedule 40 pvc pipe". (I'd rather not reprint it here to respect his copyright.) It lists the distances of the holes measured from the end of the flute and the hole diameters. Hope that helps! I'm not sure how else to explain it.


RavenShadow519 says: Jul 13, 2009. 4:19 PM
first off, thanks for this instructable its the single most informative flute making thing i've found! SOmething i've learned from my fiddling around; If you have a bench grinder it works superbly for shaping the wine cork the way you want it. It took was easy to control the removal and left a smooth surface area, give it a try next time your working with it i dont think you'll be disappointed! -Adam
germeten says: Jan 15, 2009. 7:15 PM
I've played with flutes and recorders infrequently, not enough to be proficient. One problem I've had with flutes is being able to purse my lips, get and maintain the proper angle to the blow-hole, while being finger dexterous with the others. Recorders are better IMHO because the mouthpiece establishes the air angle, leaving one less skill needed to master. So can you advise how to make and add a recorder's mouthpiece to your instructable? thanks.
thepelton in reply to germetenMay 12, 2009. 12:51 PM
I have played a recorder for forty years, myself. I would suggest looking closely at a commercial model, and measuring everything.
Jnkyrdguy (author) in reply to germetenJan 16, 2009. 7:45 AM
I haven't made a recorder or whistle, but this site has good plans and instructions for one: The 'Low-Tech' Whistle: How to Make a PVC Whistle.

And this site shows how to make a simple PVC clarinet: The $5.00 Clarinet.
germeten in reply to JnkyrdguyJan 16, 2009. 1:47 PM
Thank you for those other site links, Apart from the instruments, indicate how to make a whistle in a survival situation, easier than I thought.
zac d says: May 9, 2009. 5:47 PM
I t dosnt even work
mach2 says: Apr 22, 2009. 10:48 AM
I have been cutting embo's for sometime. I prefer the oval vrs the round hole for more robust performance. Generally the blow edge and the opposite edge should be equal, in that if you built a straight flute with no embo' offset, a player could play left or right. My ovals generally are the same as the boehm design though this can vary from as little as a millimeter difference in length (8.7x9.7 to as much as 8.5x12mm) The undercut blow edge and sides are not uniform but blend. The angle of the undercut is very difficult to measure because of the curve of the tube but I generally start with a 10 degree blow edge. Some cutters prefer a straight cut and some use a rounded edge. I use a straight edge or "chamfer" and the sides are slightly rounded. Depending on how the 'tuning' process goes I can make adjustments to the embo' by adding more angle on the blow edge. So if you're not sure start with less angle. Just remember you can't add material. Rinse the embo with water before testing. You don't want to breath the dust. I use an exacto knife to rough out, a jewelers file and also some 350 grit paper wrapped around the shank of a drill of near diameter size using double sided tape. I recommend using norton paper as it is also water resistant and finer paper for the finish out. then lighter paper etc.
wrightklaw says: Apr 7, 2009. 8:41 AM
If you play the flute, a boehm system metal flute, perhaps, or maybe your baroque will help you, just look at how the embochure hole is made on those flutes and try to copy it. The whole idea behind it is that the edge of the hole that you blow on splits the air, creating vibrations, so you'll want that edge to be fairly sharp. I hope that helps.
supergokou says: Feb 19, 2009. 7:38 AM
I'm gonna revisit the embouchure question. I looked at a few websites and I can't seem to get a clear answer on the angle of the hole. If I'm looking at the pipe and the embouchure hole is to my left (this would be the side I would play from), then should I drill such that the drill bit tip is pointing towards me or away from me. You also mentioned "right angle" in your instructions, and I'm not clear if you meant "90 deg" or the "Correct" angle. Should the inside edges of the hole be parallel to each other, or should there be a 45 deg angle on one side and a 90 deg angle on the other side? Thanks for the help
Jnkyrdguy (author) in reply to supergokouFeb 21, 2009. 6:58 AM
I drilled the embouchure hole with the bit pointing straight at the center of the pipe since it is easiest to drill that way. Then I used a small file to bring the blown edge to the correct angle which is about 45 degrees between the edge of the hole that was just cut and the outside edge.
Rainx says: Feb 13, 2009. 10:11 PM
Is this in any way toxic to the human body?? I hear PVC is quite dangerous to humans when burned or processed.
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