Introduction: Making Waterproof UV Clothes and Pigment Clothes. a How to Do Instructable Plus Prussian Blue Necklaces. and a Few Urethane Pigm Jewelry.
Hi there. Have you ever considered if you could practically make your own Glow in the UV or glow in the dark Pigments Lab Coats? Well I tried it and Magic markers (5 of them with short clothes) and alcohol can give really neat effects under UV light.
Also, Prussian blue, Safranin O, etc and Malachite green dye can be applied 0.5 percent (Safranin O or Malachite green) can be used on cotton clothes (white) and 50 percent Cotton and 50 percent polyester can be dyed this way.
However, since they are soluble in water they need to be waterproof. Two options may exist. Clear Urethane in Mineral Spirits or Silicone polymers in Mineral spirits (However just the Silicone polymers alone are usually not enough to mix into the Mineral Oil. I tried it twice and it would not form a slurry. If it has other solvents (Naptha, Petro, Acetic acid, etc and it quite pure -- It may work better than just normal type Silicone polymer.
Step 1: How to Make Prussian Blue and Put It Into a Lab Coat (Let It Dry). + How to Do Some Types of Prussian Type Necklaces.
Prussian blue can be made by adding 4 g of Potassium ferrocyanide with 100 ml of water with 100 ml of 4 grams of Iron sulfate 7 hydrates with a few drops of concentrated Hydrogen peroxide.
A safety when dealing with potassium ferrocyanide or Sodium ferricyanide. If a solution of these chemicals is added to a strong acid like concentrated (Sulfuric, Hydrochloric, or even Nitric, etc) any acid past Ph 1 the chemical will decompose releasing deadly hydrogen cyanide gas leading to instant death. Never work with any acids (especially strong) ones and always label your chemicals so nothing bad can happen when dealing with potassium ferrocyanide or Sodium ferricyanide.
Here several methods of making things cotton with Prussian blue.
However, any Fe+3 salt will work that way if you use Iron (II) sulfate you need some hydrogen peroxide.
This makes a 200 ml solution which is extremely concentrated about 13-15 grams of Prussian blue per 200 ml.
Here the complex balanced equation. 4Fe3+
+ 3[FeII(CN) 6]4− → FeIII[FeIIIFeII(CN) 6] 3 from wiki.
One good advantage is the Prussian blue is a colloid (like 60 percent solid in 40 percent liquid). It semi-soluble and eventually will fall out of solution. So once you make it you will have to shake it up again. The lab coat was 65 percent Cotton and 35 percent Polyester. Cotton and other stuff work very well for Prussian blue since it easily absorbs into it.
Prussian blue is a colloid so when it hits cotton some of it absorbs first creating a light blue while the dye migrates around the cotton (etc) and it concentrates and settles (being sticky it dries) and the contrast is a dark blue pigment.
For 1/3 of my lab coat could the Prussian blue pigment 200 ml fully with different white marks too coat 75 percent of it. It took About 1 L carefully in a large tub of that 12-15 g per 200 ml solution to soak it. It took with a powerful fan about 3 days or so until it was completely dry. However, There was an Issue of what would happen if it was washed all the pigment would come out. It needed to be waterproofed to be practical.
Step 2: Malachite Green 2 Percent Diluted Down to 0.5- Indigo Carmine, 1 Percent, and Small Amounts of 0.2 Percent Safranin O.
Here I explain that you have to make a 2 percent Malachite green powder in 500 ml of water approx to get 2 percent. Malachite green is LIGHT sensitive, and when ages it goes from dark blue-green to a blue navy green. The same thing slightly happens with Indigo Carmine.
Take 100 ml of the dye of each (Note I did not do this but recommended for cotton, etc) and add it to 100 g of white shaving cream. Mix these dyes until you get a dark blue, dark green and dark red. Thus you need three paint brushes 6 inches and something to dip it in. Yes, this is easier than soaking it or squirting it since these dyes are not cheap and SHAVING CREAM makes it spread out way more.
This also works with fluorescent markers (Orange, Pink, yellow, etc) too.
The malachite green can be sprayed at 2 percent directly onto the shirt with a syringe. The same can happen with the safranin O that mixes with the green to give a brown-green color.
Step 3: Shirt Stained in Pigments. (Before Discovering Shaving Cream),
For the lab coat, it first must be soaked individually small 250 ml cups with Linseed Oil and the powder. For 10 g use 5 grams per 250 ml and spray it when it dissolves fully with a paintbrush (Recommended), Has the cotton coat handing up.
Use pigments in Linseed Oil that dissolve Glowing green, glowing yellow, glowing orange, glowing pink, glowing purple under UV light. Let them dry for 2-4 days for a single application. Let it air dry.
Some of the white shirt is sprayed with different mixtures of soaps They take a long time to dry. DIsh diterngenr TIde. sodium fluorescein powder in ethanol, etc.
Once the coats and lab coats dry completely you can use two methods SIlicone with other chemicals added to Hexane 50 percent or Mineral spirits. If you don't have hexane Acetone can work as well. AN alternative to this is to get the Scotts waterproof outdoor spray.
Step 4: Final Step Water Prooving Your Fabric.
For the Prussian blue mixed with small amounts of black Echochrome t black mixed in water to blacken things. Here a Lab coat with Prussian blue and concentrated small amounts of Ec T black. Another is at stuff with ammonia and calcium chloride with shaving cream and methylene blue which turns it purple.
After your done spraying these fabric dyes. You can also use bleach on fabric too then add acrylic paint, etc. Here how to make the shirts from bleach.
Finally, the waterproof spray even if 1 can cost 15 dollars and last 2-3 uses is recommended for trying to make it yourself. The spray is more fine and direct thus it can be used easier than painting with no globs appearing. Thanks for viewing my Instructable.
Please note all fabric must be waterproofed before hand washing with a hose. Don't put into the Laundry.
There is a limitation in this that it very expensive to do. Several can of Silicone spray per shirt or Labcoat min be used. If it has thick scally dyes on it it may need a min of 3 types of sprays and this can be very expensive. I am not saying this isn't practical (it may not be) it to test the theory on how to do this if you want to. Also the coats become flammable so that a limitation right there so they cannot be put into the drier still it a neat concept.
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