This is a 12-plait, 6-foot stockwhip with an 18-inch, 16-plait stock. Lengths are in American customary units, since for some reason whip lengths are measured in feet and it was easier to do all the calculations for strand drops in inches because of this.
I am also including instructions on how to make a 6-foot Bullwhip and a 6-foot pocket snakewhip. Since the differences lie in the handles the second two whips will merely show what is different from the stockwhip.
This is an advanced tutorial. I will show several complex knots and methods for creating fancy patterns on the stock. The reader should have a knowledge of basic knots, such as the constrictor knot , the sheet bend , the wall knot, the crown knot, the blood knot, and the Spanish ring knot. I do assume a knowledge of plaiting (braiding) terms, and knowing how to plait (braid) will be helpful, though I do describe all over and under patterns. Explaining the tying of Turk's Heads and Globe knots would take up far more space than is available in this tutorial, so if you wish to use them I suggest KHWW.net's Grid Maker, the Turk's Head Cookbook, and the Globe Knot Cookbook.
I frequent the KHWW forum, and there are many helpful tools and articles on the site. The International Guild of Knot Tyers, of which I am a member, is also a good resource.
O1U1 Take the strand Over one and Under one other strand.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
I get my paracord from supplycaptain.com .
Bullwhips and snakewhips will use the BBs. Stockwhips and bullwhips will use the dowel.
Step 2: Making pointed ends for fancywork
Diagonal cut paracord is much easier to thread into a needle: 1) Pull the sheath back an inch or two, and cut off all the strands. 2) Push the sheath back out, beyond the strands. 3) Cut the sheath at a diagonal, as shown. 4) Heat seal the end, just enough to keep the diagonal cut. Cutting the inner strands back like that makes sealing in general much neater.
Step 3: Prepare the Handle
For a bullwhip, cut a 9 inch dowel length, drill a hole about 3/8 inch diameter down into the center for about 3 inches, and taper the end with the hole. The smoother the taper the better. I use a belt sander clamped upside-down in a vise to make the taper, a lathe would probably be better.
For a snakewhip, make 2 lengths, 3 feet and 1.5 feet, of "ballcord" by cutting a length of paracord, removing the inner strands, putting the end of your marlinespike into the cord, and heat-sealing the end open. Then, one at a time, feed BBs into the hollow cord.I push the BBs in with a long, thin steel rod. One can also push the BB in with the spike, then hold the cord between the spike & the vice and pull the cord to force the BB down.
For the bullwhip, you only need to make about 12 inches of ballcord. Coat 3 inches of it with epoxy, put some epoxy into the hole in the handle, and push the cord into the hole. Let it dry. This must be secure for a proper whip.
Step 4: Prepare the Core
For the bullwhip, cut 3 strands, 1x 63", 1x 45", 1x 27". Bind them to the ballcord sticking out of the handle, and tape the binding point to the handle.
For the snakewhip, cut 2 strands, 1x 72", 1x 54". Use the 2 pieces of ballcord and bind just as in the stockwhip.
Step 5: Belly plait start
Step 6: Attach the belly to the core
Cross the "top" strands of the belly, then O1U1 pattern back to their respective sides.
Keep repeating this until there are 6 crossings.
Then flip the whole thing over about the long axis of the whip.
Step 7: Plait the Belly
Do the same on the other side.
Bind the end with the diamond plait in a vice so you can pull the plaiting tight. Pull tight, then do the U2O2. Pull tight, plait loose. It's much easier and will give you a better whip than trying to pull tight after plaiting a strand through.
Step 8: First strand drop
Then cut them off and seal them to the core.
Step 10: 4-plait
This is easy, just go O1U1 on both sides.
Continue for another 18 inches, cut off all the cords, seal the ends, and bind them to the core with a constrictor knot in artificial sinew.
Step 11: Belly plait complete
Now roll the whip on a hard floor under a board. Get the strand drops to taper smoothly.
Step 12: Tape Bolster
I've attached pictures of the finished 8, 6, and 4-plait braids.
At this stage I like to make a popper & tie it directly to the end of the belly, then try to crack it. It should give a slight pop, and a nice smooth roll-out. A reasonably good whipcracker will be able to tell if there are any errors, even if the belly alone can't be cracked (though it should optimally be crackable.)
Step 13: Making a Fall
Then thread the end through the hole using a threaded needle.
Until you have about a 3/4" diameter loop.
And then cut the end off where both strands are still present, and heat seal it all together.
Step 14: The Overlay
For a bullwhip I add 18" to all the strands to account for the thickness of the handle.
For a bullwhip or snakewhip I also don't plait a loop for the keeper, instead I wrap it straight onto the handle, just like when doing the belly.
For the stockwhip's keeper loop, start a diamond plait as before.
Cross the center strands of each side.
Bring them O1U1 to the outsides.
The new innermost strands cross and go O1U1 to the outside.
Repeat for the last 2 strands.
Now it's time to flat braid!
1 strand goes O1U1 to the other side.
The opposite strand goes U1O1U1.
Repeat 3 times.
And do the same for the other set of 6 cords.
Interweave the adjacent sets of strands, O1U1, being sure to preserve the strands own OU sequence.
One at a time weave the strands from the "upper" groups of cord through, O1U1.
Place the belly on the diamond.
And plait O1U1 for at least 6 crossings.
1 There are many questions about this bit, so I'll go into more depth about the math to find strand drop locations.
First, determine the length of the thong of your whip (for a stock) or the whole whip (for a snake or bullwhip.) Eg 6 ft.
Second, convert the length to inches (or meters to cm, if using SI units.) Eg 6 ft * 12 in/ft = 72 in.
Then add a "safety factor" to account for the spiraling of strands and the need of extra cord to pull on for plaiting. Eg 72 in * 1.75 = 126".
Then determine the number of strands in your overlay (Eg 12) and the number of strands you want to reach the end (6 is the maximum one normally wants, even on 14 or 16-strand whips.) Eg 6.
The remaining strands will drop in pairs, evenly along the thong. Eg 12 strands - 6 strands reach the end = 6 strands drop out. 6 strands / 2 (pairs) = 3 drops. So there will be 4 sections of the whip of equal length. 126 in / 4 = 31.5 in.
Subtract the length of the sections that drop. Eg 126 in - 31.5 in = 94.5 in. 94.5 in - 31.5 in = 63 in. 63 in - 31.5 in = 31.5 in.
Add subsection lengths appropriately. Eg each strand is paired with a full-length strand in a 12-strand whip, so 126 in + 94.5 in = 220.5 in. 126 in + 63 in = 189 in. 126 in + 31.5 in = 157.5 in. The numbers above are these, just rounded.
Example for an 8 foot, 16-strand whip:
Whip length: 8 feet.
Convert to inches: 8 ft * 12 in/ft = 96 in.
Safety factor: 96 in * 1.75 = 168 in.
16 strands in overlay, 6 strands reach the end. 10 strands must drop out, in pairs, at even intervals along the whip.
10 strands / 2 (pairs) = 5 drops. So 6 sections.
168 in / 6 sections = 28 in/section.
168 in - 28 in = 140 in.
140 in - 28 in = 112 in.
112 in - 28 in = 84 in.
84 in - 28 in = 56 in.
56 in - 28 in = 28 in.
Since we're folding the strands over instead of trying to secure the separate strands to the belly we add the whip length with safety factor in to the 6 shortest strands (3 shortest pairs).
168 in + 28 in = 196 in.
168 in + 56 in = 224 in.
168 in + 84 in = 252 in.
The remaining strands are dropping out before the end on both sides, so we add them in pairs, longest with shortest of the remainder.
140 in + 112 in = 252 in.
The final strands will be as follows:
2x 196 in (folded at 168 in), 2x 224 in (folded at 168 in), 2x 252 in (folded at 168 in), 2x 252 in (folded at 140 in).
Step 15: 12-Plait
The pattern looks like the second picture when pulled tight properly.
Step 16: Dropping strands in the Overlay
Step 17: 10-Plait
U3O2 on the second side.
U2O3 on the first side.
U2O3 on the second side.
Step 18: Finishing the overlay
Again after 1.5 feet, go to 6-plait. 6-plait is the same as with the belly. You should have 6 strands as you hit the belly. When you get to the very end of the belly slip all 6 remaining strands through the fall loop. Start half-hitching them in alternate directions, around all the other strands and the main part of the fall. After 6-8 hitches, cut & seal all but the bottommost strand. Take that one up through the fall, pull the fall down nice and hard, then cut & seal that strand as it sticks up out of the fall loop. Roll the thong under the board. Get it nice and smooth. If you pulled tight enough nothing should be loose.
The last three pictures show a 12-plait, and the irregularity of the 10 plait.
Step 19: The Stock
Cut 2 strands 292" (24'4") long, one of each color. Fold them in half, then in quarters, and cut into 4 strands 73" long each. If you want a bigger safety margin, cut the initial 2 @ 340 inches (28'4"). Middle the strands, start an 8-strand flat plait. Continue this for the length you want the keeper, and fold them over the handle end that has the groove. Pretty much the same as making the loop for the overlay, just with 16 strands instead of 12. Plait a few inches of 16-strand diamond (over-1, under-1, all of 1 color on the right and the other on the left).
The easy way to do patterns is to wrap one color (the foreground color) all the way around the handle, evenly, covering the whole thing, (no gaps) and bind it at the other end.
Step 20: Bracelet pattern
Each successive blue strand goes under the next black strand and gets pulled up tight.
Step 21: Pattern design
And draw a pattern. "Interlocking diamonds" is traditional.
You can design your own patterns. So long as they fit they will be possible to plait. So long as they repeat at multiples of 4 squares they will make "clean" rings around the handle. Here's a pattern I designed to show this, I've never seen it used or in any book.
Some patterns won't fit. I wanted to plait the IGKT's carrick mat logo, but the simplest version I could draw came out to 24 strands minimum.
Step 22: Pattern implementation
So let's see that pattern I designed actually made. Pick a strand and thread it into a lacing needle, then bring it over 1 and under 4.
Next strand O2U1O2U1
O4U4 and you're done, just have to lock it in (with a bracelet, stairstep, or just the next pattern.)
Last 2 pictures are the pattern locked in with a bracelet, showing the diamonds and the dots.
Step 23: Letters
To draw letters, use the graph paper method to create the patterns for the letters.
Step 24: Finishing the stock
Then bind the base strands down to the glue with sinew. Glue the upper strands onto them, and bind those to the base.
Once the glue dries, cut the ends off and heat-seal them.
Feed the thong through the loop in the keeper, and the handle through the loop in the thong. We do this now to make sure it will fit, instead of after the globe-knot on the end...
Step 25: Globe knot end (stockwhip)
Every stockwhip needs a knob. I use 2-part sculptable epoxy. It's a bit like sculpting bubblegum, but it has a working life of about 5-15 minutes and cures hard in an hour.
I make the knob as even as I can, about an inch across.
Then I tie a "globe-on-a-post" to it. 56ZQB works well. I used about 12 feet of paracord for the globe knot here, and left room to do an interweave with a 3rd strand.
I also tied a Spanish ring knot. Since 56ZQB would be very difficult to tie without a globe knot tool, and those are included with the globe knot cookbook set I'll not provide instructions on how to tie it unless Don Burrhus says I can, since I'd just be copying his book. Spanish ring knots are very common, instructions are easy to find.
Step 26: Little Lump Knot handle knob
Cut 4 6-foot long strands, and put them through the weave to get 8 3-foot strands attached to the handle.
Tie an extended footrope knot:
Start with a wall knot, let it hang down a few inches.
Take each strand O1U1.
Repeat, to extend the footrope knot. Tighten evenly.
Tie a double crown (a crown with pairs of strands instead of single strands) around the edge.
Tie a second double crown over the top.
Tie another extended footrope knot (wall, then O1U1O1U1.)
Using every other strand, tie a crown knot.
Take the strands from the wall and follow the "adjacent" strand down through the knot. It's pretty obvious which strand to follow in practice.
Take 1 of the four strands facing you, and take it U1O1 to the left of the strand facing away. Leave a loop facing you.
Take the strand facing away and take it over the previous strand, then U1O1 and through the loop. Pull somewhat tight.
Repeat with the other 2 strands, but since 2 have been done you go U1O1U1O1 and to the left...
Then over the previous strand, and U1O1U1O1 and through the loop. Pull tight.
Now take each strand and follow its adjacent strand until you would be tripling the knot. Take the strand U all and out the bottom.
Tighten the knot 1 strand at a time. Once tight I like to gently tap it with a rubber or rawhide mallet to even out any bulges. The little lump knot is done.
Tie ANOTHER extended footrope knot beneath the little lump knot. At the end, take the strands U all and out the bottom.
Tighten this. Cut the strands, carefully heat seal them (don't burn the knots or handle) and push them under the footrope knot with a marlinespike.
Step 27: Attach the whip to the stock
Thread the keeper through the loop on the whip.
Thread the whip through the keeper.
Step 28: Finishing the Whip
Tie the popper on (use a sheet bend). I make my poppers from some of the spare core strands of the paracord.
Your whip is now finished.