There are many kinds of whip, but the most popular for sport cracking and target cutting are the Australian Stockwhip and the Bullwhip.

This is a 12-plait, 6-foot stockwhip with an 18-inch, 16-plait stock. Lengths are in American customary units, since for some reason whip lengths are measured in feet and it was easier to do all the calculations for strand drops in inches because of this.

I am also including instructions on how to make a 6-foot Bullwhip and a 6-foot pocket snakewhip. Since the differences lie in the handles the second two whips will merely show what is different from the stockwhip.

This is an advanced tutorial. I will show several complex knots and methods for creating fancy patterns on the stock. The reader should have a knowledge of basic knots, such as the constrictor knot , the sheet bend , the wall knot, the crown knot, the blood knot, and the Spanish ring knot. I do assume a knowledge of plaiting (braiding) terms, and knowing how to plait (braid) will be helpful, though I do describe all over and under patterns. Explaining the tying of Turk's Heads and Globe knots would take up far more space than is available in this tutorial, so if you wish to use them I suggest KHWW.net's Grid Maker, the Turk's Head Cookbook, and the Globe Knot Cookbook.

I frequent the KHWW forum, and there are many helpful tools and articles on the site. The International Guild of Knot Tyers, of which I am a member, is also a good resource.

Terms:
O Over
U Under
O1U1 Take the strand Over one and Under one other strand.

## Step 1: Tools and Materials

About 170-200 feet of 550 paracord. (Buy extra, just in case. I can do it in 200, you will likely have more waste. 250-300 is a better amount starting out) 3/4 inch diameter hardwood dowel. BBs or very small lead shot. 5-minute epoxy. Bench vise (not shown). Artificial sinew, (not shown, Tandy 3609-00, $2-4) Electrical tape (not shown) A board & a hardwood or concrete floor for rolling the whip. Forceps/hemostats (RadioShack Cat#64-065,$10), Nippy Cutters (RadioShack Cat#64-064, $6), Micro torch (Frys #4039552,$15), lacing needle (Came with the globe knot cookbook, Tandy #1193-02, jumbo perma-lok needle works well), and rigging knife (any marlinespike will do, this knife is from Rough Riders, and the spike doesn't lock properly, but it's about $15 and works well otherwise.) Scissors can also be used. It is better to use a candle to heat-seal the ends of cord than to use the lighter directly. Especially a micro-torch like this thing, since it can melt copper. You are MUCH more likely to burn your fingers trying to mold the molten nylon than with a candle. The torch is just good because it can aim a flame straight down and still melt cord, which comes in handy when dropping strands.(Optional) The globe knot cookbook set, by Don Burrhus. It is available at http://www.knottool.com . This is used if you want the "globe-knot-on-a-post" end, the Little Lump Knot end does not require this. I get my paracord from supplycaptain.com . Bullwhips and snakewhips will use the BBs. Stockwhips and bullwhips will use the dowel. <p>I have not made it yet but plan on it. I am just having hell understand a specific part </p><p>&quot;Since we're folding the strands over instead of trying to secure the separate strands to the belly we add the whip length with safety factor in to the 6 shortest strands (3 shortest pairs).</p><p>168 in + 28 in = 196 in.<br>168 in + 56 in = 224 in.<br>168 in + 84 in = 252 in.<br>The remaining strands are dropping out before the end on both sides, so we add them in pairs, longest with shortest of the remainder.<br>140 in + 112 in = 252 in.<br>The final strands will be as follows:<br>2x 196 in (folded at 168 in), 2x 224 in (folded at 168 in), 2x 252 in (folded at 168 in), 2x 252 in (folded at 140 in).&quot;</p><p>the part where you say since we're folding the strands over instead of trying to secure the separate stands to the the belly we add the whip length with safety factor into the 6 shortest strands. i'm not sure what this is for and i'm having a hard time figuring it out. i understand these are the shortest &quot;pairs&quot; but why are you adding the whip length and the inches per section to it? and how did you get the final strands? the reason why i'm being very sepcific is because i plan on making more then one in different lengths. other then me not understanding this tutorial is amazing! it is appreciated that you took your time to make this instructables </p> <p>addendum: i figured it out after 12 hours straight looking at it....... thanks though. no ever accused me of being the brightest color in the box. </p> <p>Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, glad you figured it out anyway. </p> <p>well that is all right, maybe you would like to help me out. since you have the math figured out I'm trying to add it to an excel sheet so no matter what you'll get the math asap. even if you have 0 bolsters and just plait 2 bellies and 1 overlay or what ever.Do you think that you are up for something like that? </p> most fun I've has in a long time. thanks. <p>Looks excellent, glad it was enjoyable!</p> <p>I made a cow whip for a cosplay, using a combination of this tutorial and Nick Shrader's youtube tutorial for a bull whip. Your tutorial was indispensable and I was very pleased with the result. </p> <p>Lovely - nice clear instructions. I'm not sure I did the crown, etc, very well, but it came out very nicely.</p> Being a seeker of instant gratification, I went ahead and made it without the groove in the stock dowel. It cracks nice &amp; easy. However, tightening the plaiting on the stock was very squirrelly work, as it kept sliding around. In future, I think the few minutes spent sanding a groove will be well worth it, if only to keep the work in place. Thanks again for the excellent tutorial! <p>Sorry for not replying sooner. The groove is pretty much just to make it a bit easier to tie everything on, as you discovered it's not needed to get a functional whip but saves a bunch of time.</p> This is by far the best whipmaking tutorial I've come across online! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.<br><br>One question - my understanding is that the groove in the stock dowel was to accommodate tying on a seperate piece for the keeper in a leather whip. Is it still necessary with the keeper being plaited right onto it? If I forego the groove, will it make a difference to the functionality of the finished whip? Thanks again. <p> l just get the keeper right is something out the explains in more detail ????</p> <p>The keeper starts out much like the overlay, just with fewer strands in the flat plait. </p> Does amount of bellies matter? I've seen other how-to's and they say three bellies, does it matter? <p>Not really. The only thing that truly matters is that the whip tapers smoothly and is reasonably flexible. With paracord a single belly around a core will typically work well for a reasonably sized whip, but with thinner cord you'd want a few more bellies to get it large enough to be comfortable to hold and to get the stiffness/flexibility right.</p> <p>I'm making the snakewhip, but I suppose this question would be applicable regardless: Are the two strands of the core attached to the ballcord gutted or do you leave the core strands in them to round out the core of the whip?</p> <p>Remove the white gut strands from all parts of the whip, except (optionally) the outer covering of the handle. For a snakewhip that means there will never be any white core strands left in the whip.</p> <p>How can you attach a wrist strap to the bottom of the bullwhip and still make the lump knot?</p> <p>I'd make a strap with a 3-strand flat plait of paracord, glue/tack it to the sides of the stock near the base, and weave the lump knot through it.</p> <p>thanks</p> Hi <br>I am interested in making the 6 foot stock whip and I was just wondering if it was meant to have a bb strand and if so when you bound the together would you have 4 strands total or 4 + the bb strand? <p>This is a well done starter guide for making a whip, good job! I'm a professional whip maker in Massachusetts and I've made several hundred whips. I hope you aren't offended if I offer a little bit of advice.<br>When deciding on a handle core you want to keep in mind that wood will absorb moisture and swell/shrink quite a bit. This will drastically shorten the life and impede the performance of the whip. Almost all professionals use 1/4&quot; steel rods; They cost a few dollars for a 3ft rod at most hardware stores. With the width of the handle, your best performance will come when the finished handle is 3/4&quot; thick. Traditional stock whips have handles slightly thinner than that. American Stock handles are 18&quot; and Australian are traditionally 21&quot;. I prefer the Australian stocks (they are lighter and thus faster). My biggest advice is to always, always, always remove the white inner core from the paracord. The white core is prone to shrinking and will cause your finished whip to warp drastically. Also, by removing the cores, your whip will have less bumps and lumps in them improving the flow of energy and the overall look of the whip.<br>A general guide line for core/belly/overlay is that the core should have a tapered weight going 7/8 of the length of the finished whip. The belly should go 3/4 and the overlay (obviously) goes the full length.<br>If you want to learn some smoother techniques, look up Em-brand-whips on Youtube. Bernie does a wonderful job of offering instruction. Also, Ron Edwards book &quot;How to Make Whips&quot; is an amazing resource.<br>-Theodore - ViciousWhips.com</p> <p>Do you have a better visual for step 26? the visuals are just confusing me....</p> Can I use a 1 inch dowel and will this effect it? You want a dowel that is comfortable in hand when wrapped in 2 layers of paracord. 1 inch might be a bit thick, but shouldn't be a problem if it's comfortable to you. First off, I want to say that I am really excited to start this project; I never thought I would be able to just make a whip but now have a matched pair of 4ft, 16 strand snake whips planned for a Christmas present. To double check my planning: OVERLAY cut& burn lengths will be: 2x98 - fold at 84 1st + full. 84/14 (in inches) 2x112 - fold at 84 2nd + full 84/28 2x126 - fold at 84 3rd + full 84/42 2x126 - fold at 70 4th + 5th 70/56 BELLY cut& burn lengths 2x84 - fold in half 2x112 - fold in half CORE 24+12 of ball cord 36 + 48 unweighted Bringing me to a grand total of 658in of each color, plus 120in of one (plus a few feet of spare) Comes to minimum 60ft black and ~80 of lime per whip A question on the prep work: the ball cord and the belly plait are gutted; are the overlay and two long core strands gutted as well? Thank you for making this project possible! The overlay is gutted, the long core strands are not.<br><br>The measurements look about right at first glance, though I've not actually calculated them out. Most paracord shops sell in 100 foot hanks anyway, (eg Supplycaptain.com sells 100ft for$7) so buying 4 hanks should give you some to spare.
So on the bullwhip the core strands you said to cut the longest one at 63 inches, and since it is supposed to be a 6ft. whip, I was wondering how it ended up being 6ft if it's only 63&quot;? Do you just go past that on the overlay doing it on no strands or what? If you could post some pictures of the finished bullwhip belly that would be great. Thanks
The core goes beyond the belly. You can see a picture of it in step 5, substep 11. The overlay goes beyond the belly and core.
Hi I am wanting to make an 8ft bullwhip how far should I shot it to have an ideal weight for whipping ? How would I work out the lengths to the plats too ? I don't understand the way you have the formula on your instructable sorry, I will have an 8.2 ft core but unsure how to calculate the strands for platting it. Thanks I am guessing the 6*12*1.75 is 6 being length of whip ? But unsure on the others thanks
For the shot, the ideal weight depends on the user's preference and the intended use of the whip. More shot makes for a heavier base, so a larger mass change from the handle to the cracker and thus a greater acceleration and louder crack.<br> The formula, with units: 6 ft * 12 in/ft * 1.75 = 126 in. (TeX $6ft\times12\frac{{in}}{ft}\times1.75=126in$) It's just converting feet to inches, then multiplying by 1.75 to give extra length for the braiding (the strands spiral around the core/belly, and you need some room to work with.) Really it's just WhipLength * 1.75 (or WhipLength * 1.5 if you don't need as much extra cord due to being an experienced plaiter.) The other strands drop out at intervals along the thong, so you cut them shorter so as not to waste cord. You COULD do the entire thing with full-length strands, but there would be quite a lot of waste. Paracord is cheap, but it's not THAT cheap. If in doubt, err on the side of wasting some cord by making the strands too long. You can always cut more off, you can't easily add more in.<br> To explain the reasoning, and how to figure out what the lengths should be:<br> So you have a strand length of 126&quot; for a 6 foot whip. You could cut 12 strands 126&quot; long and bind all 12 strands together at the handle end, but that's hard to do, it's far easier to start the plaiting in the middle of the strands. So you make 6 strands 252&quot; and fold them in half. But that wastes cord, since you need to drop strands in pairs to get a good taper. If you want 6 strands to be full length for the fall knot (a good number) then you can pick your strand drop locations to determine how the whip tapers. If we want a perfectly even taper there will be three drops (6 strands dropping out in pairs) so the whip gets divided into 4 parts (start -&gt; 1st drop, 1st drop -&gt; 2nd drop, 2nd drop -&gt; 3rd drop, 3rd drop -&gt; end) of equal length. 126&quot;/4=31.5&quot;. 252&quot;-31.5&quot;=220.5&quot;, 252&quot;-63&quot;=189&quot;, 252&quot;-94.5&quot;=157.5&quot;.<br> I've updated step 14 with a more thorough explanation of the strand drop math.
I have managed to work it out I am guessing the 6= length of whip 12 = number of plats and 1.75 being increase in length of whip? So for an 8ft it would be 8*12*1.75?
whips are measured in feet cause MERICA!
Essentially yes. America and Australia were major users of whips even after the use declined in other countries, and being former British colonies they use systems based on the Imperial system of measurement.
So I was a little confused on the bullwhip instructions. When you make the &quot;ballcord&quot; do you seal one end as you put the bbs in, and then seal the other when you're done? Then after you get the core done you attach the belly to the core on the bullwhip too, right? Then most of the instructions are the same for the stock whip and bull whip? Thanks a lot, your instructions are really good.
Correct on all counts. Thanks for the praise!
I've started making the 6' snake whip per your instructions, my question is I would also like to make a 3' or 4' snake whip what would the ball chain and para cord lengths be for that?
Those were some really great detailed instructions. I have a mess load of paracord a paratrooper friend of mine gave me and now I know what I'm going to do with it.
I've been having a lot of trouble with this wee knot, I finally got something that i thought was right on my whip, but upon looking at yours i realize that some of my cords on the way down on the lump knot weren't doubled up. Not sure if it helps, but it's the ones going from right to left(with the knot facing up). I'm about to move onto my second whip from your instructable(the first one cracked well, but it was only my 2nd whip, and I wasn't pleased with the build quality, so I'm making another) and I'd like my next one to be perfect, so any help with my knot problem would be great. <br>Many thanks, Adam
When you start doubling the strands make sure you're using all of the working ends, not just half of them. Also make sure you follow the same strand all the way around until you come back to where you started doubling it.
thanks for the quick reply. So just so I've got this right, from top to bottom on the overlay, the lengths would be 135&quot;, 52&quot;, 135&quot;, 83&quot;, 135&quot; and 115&quot;(from the centre)? And they way you say to go 18&quot; then drop 2 strands, is that 18&quot; from the base of the handle, so 9&quot; from the end of the handle? And i saw you said in a previous comment that you used 4mm BBs, but in your pictures it looks like a much larger size of BB <br>(sorry for not putting this as a reply, it wouldn't let me for some reason :S )
Strand lengths look correct.<br>18&quot; from the base of the handle, yes.<br>The bb container says 4mm, my calipers say 4.35mm.
Hello, I am slightly confused by your instruction for the bullwhip for the lengths of cord i will need, and also the part about not starting in the middle to account for dropping strands. I have made a paracord bullwhip before using another instructable, but I want to give this one a go as it looks to give a better grip, however in my last one i just folded the chords in half to get the desired lengths. Could you possibly list the lengths needed for the bullwhip and explain the reason behind starting 126 inches from one side?
Strand lengths: <br>2x 187&quot;, 2x 218&quot;, 2x 250&quot; for a 12 plait whip. <br>The reason to start 126&quot; (135&quot; for a bullwhip) from the middle is just a way to reduce waste cord. If you were to make the strands longer and fold them in half (they'd be 252&quot; for a stockwhip or snake, 270&quot; for bullwhips with 9&quot; handles) you'd have more excess when you went to drop a strand, by starting with an offset your strands will end a bit beyond where you would want to drop them anyway, so you should have at most 2-6 inches of waste instead of several feet.
Great tutorial! Thank you so much for the time and effort put behind this. I do have one question. I'd like to make a signal whip. I've made a 3' and a 6' snake using your instructions and they've turned out well. How do you weave the strands directly into the popper instead of using a fall? I've spent too many hours googling to no avail. I also own the Edwards &quot;how to...&quot; book and he doesn't include signal whips in his instructions either. Any help would be truly appreciated.
Signal whips use a fall and replaceable popper, just not a replaceable fall. Simply make one of the core strands extra long, this becomes the fall. Then attach a popper.
step 6 for the bullwhip do you attach the belly on the spot you taped of further down?
Since the core is inserted into the handle of the bullwhip I attach the belly at the taper of the handle, so that the taper stays roughly even.
Hello... <br> <br>Let me say, your tutorial is the best about nylon whipmaking I&acute;ve ever seen, and I&acute;ve been searching a lot... <br> <br>I only have one more question about the construction: <br>How do I determine the correct length of weighted parts of the core (the strands filled with bb&acute;s) accoring to the length of my whip? <br> <br>I&acute;ve built a bull and a snake following your tutroial but now I would like to make something very short....2, max. 3 foot long... <br>The other formulas considering strand lengths and drops work well, but I need to know about the length of the weightened core... <br> <br>Thanks for your precious work here...
Thanks for the kind words! <br> <br>1/3 to 1/2 of the whip should be weighted. With a bullwhip much of that weight comes from the handle, so I use less cord, with a snakewhip there is no extra handle, so the full 1/2 length gets ballcord. <br> <br>Of course this can vary depending on what you want. I've made some very small &quot;pocket snakes&quot; with ballcord all the way to the end, and a very heavy weighted handle end. These are traditionally made because a whip is legal, while a blackjack is not. For faster fancy-crack whips I tend to use less (or no) weighting to make fancy patterns easier, while more weight makes getting a loud crack easier. <br> <br>So first figure out what you want, then determine how much weight you need. More weight = louder but harder to crack rapidly, less weight = softer and easier to crack rapidly.

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