Step 4:

The trigger mechanism was made from some scrap plywood. There are no critical dimensions but you can judge the size I used from the ruler in the pictures.

At the door end the lever catches the wire loop holding the door open

At the other end of the lever a vertical trigger holds the lever down until the rabbit pushed it back whilst trying to get at the food..

This releases the trigger allowing the leaver to flip up. and so releasing the door.

The door drops down sealing the exit and trapping the rabbit in the cage for later disposal.

That's all there is - Bate the trap with something tempting. Lift the door and snag the wire loop. Set the trigger, I like to ensure it is only just holding the lever so little contact sets it off.

Site the trap some where near the rabbit problem and make sure you check at least daily.

A trapped rabbit may jump around a bit so to prevent it overturning the trap you may like to put a stake each side to keep the trap stable.

<p>Great trap, I see you have mastered the art of an outdoorsman!</p>
<p>I must admit that if I had to rely on this for daily food I would be pretty hungry. </p><p>it will and has caught rabbits but an air rifel is faster and more reliable.</p>
<p>Indeed! I use a Beeman Dual Cal. AirRifle for my small game hunting. It is the best way to get small game no doubt about it. </p>
<p>I wish I could say it works. I've tried everything. Did yours work?</p>
<p>Yes it works several rabbits have been trapped with this although it looks a bit squashed at present as the grass cutting contractor ran over it.</p>
<p>Do you think you could explain how the door is being held up a little better? I just need some verification on it. Thanks.</p>
<p>the door is held up with a wire loop. This goes over the end of a horizontal lever made of wood - about 10mm square,</p><p>At the other end this lever is trapped under the notch cut into the vertical trigger. This is another bit of 100 square wood with a 1 mm notch cut in the top end.</p><p>When bunny pushes past to get at the tasty yumies at the far end the trigger is pushed over, the horizontal lever is released and the weight of the door pulls the wire loop free, allowing the door to drop closed behind bunny.</p><p>Because the door opens inwards the bunny can't push it open again.</p>
<p>Very neat &amp; simple build, but one thing to take into consider &amp; that is your trap door. Looking at the trap with the door set open, it looks like the door is going to hit your bunny in the back by its butt, giving it a chance to get out. The trap needs to be long enough for your biggest prey, so that the door will not land on the animal. Otherwise a great simple effective trap that anyone should be able to build.</p>
<p>I think the Lever Mechanism is not sensitive enough. Every time the bait is gone with nothing in it.</p>
<p>Please do not kill it...!!</p>
id eat it
5 miles is a long way when your hungry - rightly or wrongly in these times of high food prices I see them as food!.<br /> <br /> Around me I seriously doubt I am making much impact on the rabbit population they breed faster than I catch them.<br /> <br /> Funny how fussy people have become - very few I know will eat rabbit (many naver have.)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br />
never eaten a rabbit but i would love to try it.
<p>It is absolutely delicious! I always braise mine since they're so lean (the lack of fat makes it easy to dry the little guys out). Low and slow, with some beer, wine, or stock, some chopped veggies, and you can't go wrong. I hope you get a chance to try it.</p>
Nice lean meat - smells a bit when cooking and can tend to be dry - so stew or wrap in bacon.
<p>over here in Portugal you can buy then at the butchers, in the supermarket...</p><p>@Javin007... really? wimping out over cooked meat being cut? butchery I can understand the gross factor, and actually killing large animals is always gonna have a gross factor for me but cooked meat? wow.....</p>
<p>I didn't realize how bad it had gotten until last night when we were watching a food cooking show. They were doing BBQ, and had already dressed/cleaned a hog that was then put on the pit. When it was ready, they went to remove the head, and my wife actually had to turn away from the TV because they were taking the head off of ALREADY COOKED FOOD. I just shook my head.</p>
http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/rabbit_in_mustard_sauce/ <br> <br>
I personally like rabbit lol. But I know what you mean. I used to raise rabbits as a kid, not as pets, for money and food. anybody that has more than one especially aggressive bucks wont think of them as cute lol. At one time I had over 80. Cant afford to buy them anymore may have to start breeding again nieghbors dont like the idea of me culling the hoods herd lol.
Ya'll gotta be city folks if you are all scared about a rabbit that's food good food
<p>what you people don't realize that when you displace animals they usually die because of the unfamiliar area they are put in. So even though think your doin them a favor by not &quot;Hurting&quot; them. Ya KILL em anyway</p>
<p>Tahnks, I'm not going to use this for rabbits,I'm using it for my chinchilla.( Poor baby got stuck in a hole) but I'm going to try this because i don't have a live trap and don't know where to get one :)</p>
<p>Simply brillaint! You are a genius, Thanks, gonna make one for a groundhog,</p>
Poor bunny! :( Why would you want to eat it?!
<p>because its food.</p>
<p>There is also the romantic aspect - but rabbits require too much duct tape to stop them from bursting.</p>
If you have a dog in your yard most wild creatures stay away...but then you have a dog! Haha!
Because bunts are delicious when fried or grilled
I have found that these also make great crawdad traps.
this is an over engineered trap, just get some thin wire and make 10 snares (a noose would be perfect) then check every few hours. if you dont check, a fox will take it or just shred it. when you find a rabbit, break its neck or smash its skull. i tend to skin and gut it on site to attract foxes, that way you could have a nice new fox pelt by the end of the day. alternaitly, a 12 bore to the face does the job.
Over engineered? I beg to differ. It is similar to commercial traps but the trigger is much easier to manufacture. <p> Blow it's head off - i agree easy - Not everyone can be there when bunny appears, and not everyone has the equipment or the inclination to do the deed. </p><p> Personally given the chance I shoot with an sir rifle, effective and quick if your a good shot. </p><p> Snares you have to take care to keep within the law - Someone was fined recently for trapping a grey squirrel and then drowning it. causing unnecessary suffering - &pound;1500!</p>
what is a sir rifle?
<p>It's pne space to the left on your keyboard.</p>
Typo AIR RIFLE - sorry
and here i was thinking it was a fancy rifle that was partial to wearing top hats, monocles, and handle bar moustaches
Sorry No - :-}) It's either a Hungarian relium or an older air sporter - Both sprung from pre legislation when restricted things to 12Flb - I have no idea on their mussel speed and don't intend to check.
Snares are unwise in urban areas simply because you can't be sure of killing a bunny or a neighbor's cat.<br><br>This is a live trap, so Fluffy from next door can be released alive.
I rarely use snares - Our allotment area is fenced but I do agree with you on the pet issue. A snare is best positioned over the rabbit hole to catch it as it emerges. Modern snares HAVE by law here to be self releasing - in general a cat will eventually pull itself free.
I catch with my hands!
Neat trick the rabbits round here are a lot more wary and quick as well.
So are ours i just run after them i also catch Ducks
I am impressed!
can you use a screen?
I don't see why not
Great write-up. I'm just having a lot of trouble visualizing how this trigger mechanism works. It just doesn't seem to make sense. Is the concept that the vertical piece just moves back off of the horizontal, thereby releasing the horizontal piece? If it is supposed to pivot, I don't see how it releases the trigger.
The trigger stick holds the end of the rocker level (on the top of the cage) down.<br><br>The other end of the rocker lever is slipped through a loop of string attached to the door holding it up.<br><br>The other side of the trigger stick is trapped under the wire of the cage.<br><br>When bunny pushes in to get at the food it will push the trigger off the wire releasing the rocker and so dropping the door.<br><br>As in the picture in step 5
Thanks heaps I'm going to make some modifications so I can use it for possums (Not Opossums Australian possums that are a major pest here) live traps for possums cost $150 so if it works you'll be saving me heaps
You could have made the release more efficient. This setup may fail and not release the door. Something electric maybe. When I made my mouse trap - I used 9v battery and usual 12v motor from a car radio or something. hot-glued bamboo stick to motor rotor.. <br>as for the trigger -- there was something like a rectangular bridge or ramp, so - when the mouse stepped on the ramp, motor turned, pulling the stick up, which was holding the door and releasing them. <br><br>materials were:<br>plumbing pipe, <br>2 slim cd covers - 1 used for back, other with a hole cut in the bottom was glued in fromt, so that when the case is closed, it acts as the door for the pipe. <br>motor<br>9v battery<br>bamboo stick<br>and a hot-glue, of course! :)<br><br>----------<br>should have made the ible though, would be easier to see for Yourself.

About This Instructable


293 favorites


Bio: Retired technology teacher - 2 kids, I have an Hons deg in Design and Technology - 28 years as Computer systems engineer Trained as Electronics engineer in ... More »
More by rickharris: So you want to travel to New Zealand? How to float an EGG Making radio control aircraft -  tips.
Add instructable to: