Making a Simple and Easy Charcoal/ Coal Forge

 by acer73
Forge whole.bmp
In this instructable you will learn how to make a charcoal / coal burning forge from firebrick, a few steel plumbing parts, a steel sheet, some cinder blocks and a blower

Unfortunately I ran out of money before i could finish the forge, in total it should cost around $ 50 USD depending how fancy you want it. The plans you will see are paint mock-ups from my actual design, i do not own a scanner so I had to make pictures.

This is what the finished forge should look like

 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Why a forge and getting started up

When I first discovered wanting to take up blacksmithing as a hobby, I searched and searched for designs and a website to help me get started. Then i discovered AnvilFire, they have some F.A.Q.'s and a whole bunch of info on starting up. They also have a help section called "Guru's Den" you ask questions and they will answer them.

As a begainner at Blacksmithing they recommend to build a forge out of a Brake Drum I decided against it because I really didn't want to be using a rusty piece of junk to hold 3,000 degree charcoal and white hot iron.

So i asked the guru guy a lot of questions.

And I made plans on it

Basically its fire brick in a square pillar shape stacked like a brick wall
whitlox says: May 9, 2013. 12:44 AM
You should look at the design at WhitloxHomestead.com.
Mitten says: May 20, 2007. 7:45 PM
i just use a coffee can with holes poked in the bottom and a hairdryer ...
acer73 (author) in reply to MittenMay 20, 2007. 8:45 PM
the coffee can would melt after a bit
Mitten in reply to acer73May 20, 2007. 8:56 PM
coffee cans are made from steel, and it gets hot enough to melt aluminum in a steel canned veggie can in the middle of the coals without melting.
Vendigroth in reply to MittenMay 22, 2007. 10:57 AM
yeh, but you're subjecting the can to intense heat for a long time, the steel turns so crusty and anaemic that you can literally poke a finger through it.
Derin in reply to VendigrothJul 21, 2008. 11:04 AM
but if you poke your finger thru,u can say this: "What's in the box?Pain."
lucien237 in reply to DerinOct 20, 2012. 8:37 PM
Dune ftw.
Digital_Anarchy in reply to VendigrothJun 10, 2008. 2:41 PM
LOL aneamic steel, the irony.
chuckr44 in reply to Digital_AnarchyJun 12, 2008. 11:41 AM
Ha ha ha! I get it. "Iron"-y.
josh1324 in reply to chuckr44Mar 4, 2010. 4:04 PM
ROFLCOPTER!  LMFAO!
Derin in reply to chuckr44Aug 16, 2008. 12:50 AM
rofl
hard2bme says: Aug 23, 2011. 7:57 AM
THIS IS MY FOUNDRY IM USING COAL AND I JUST CANT SEEM TO GET IT HOT ENOUGH TO MELT COPPER AND WHEN I MELT ALUM IT TAKES LIKE 20 MIN HOW CAN I MAKE IT HOT ENOUGH TO MELT COPPER I CANT USE GAS OR PROPANE IT HAS TO BE COAL
COULD ANYBODY HELP ME OUT PLEASEEEEEEE



jpabraham in reply to hard2bmeOct 17, 2012. 2:04 AM
Hi ! I'm just getting starting on Instructable and I didn't watch this one entirely.

but, I have build 2 usable blacksmith foundry.

my advices are :

don't insuflate too much air (little embers should not jump out)
put enought charcoal to keep the heat and have a hotbed big enough,
if the hotbed is directly in contact with foundry metal, it will dissipated your heat. Ensure you have ceramic or insulating layer around charcoal firebed.

If your want to melt metal, use another technique. make a foundry like that : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEWIuyeNp2k

and yes, don't use capslock please.
repear9 in reply to hard2bmeNov 4, 2011. 3:23 PM
First off do not use caps lock like a troll, Then i would be glad to answer your question.
shadus says: Mar 14, 2012. 11:03 PM
You actually CAN use galvanized steel pipe, however you need to remove the zinc coating on the pipe prior to heating it above a couple hundred degrees. There are two ways to do this,

1) you can throw it in another forge... make sure it goes well over the boiling point of zinc and make sure no one is close enough to breath the fumes or that you're outdoors and stay well clear. Takes about 1000 degrees to do this. Give it a while at that temp. Keep in mind overall, unless you have lung problems, even if you do breath it... you're likely not going to die, but you will wish you were dead. Zinc vapor is rough and it'll lay you low for a day or more.

2) alternately, you can submerse it in vinegar for a couple days (or boiling vinegar for say a day) until the zinc is completely removed, a faster process is giving it a muriatic acid bath until it quits fizzing, but then you have to neutralize it in a soda bath or similar. In either case you need to give it a coat in something to prevent rapid rusting.

The better option of course is using "black" plumbing which doesn't have a galvanized zinc coating... but 2" "black" plumbing is getting increasingly hard to find... and 2" galvanized is still very common. YMMV.
bombmaker2 says: Jun 9, 2010. 6:21 PM
You may want to check out the links you provided in Step 1. I cannot connect to them for some reason.
pj63 in reply to bombmaker2Jan 12, 2012. 9:58 AM
i had the same problem.... However if you Google 'Anvilfire' it shows you the web site.... pj63
TheSaltyPilgrim says: Oct 14, 2011. 7:47 PM
Hey I would just like to point out that this is a forge and not a crucible. to all of those looking to melt various components, you need to look else where for a crucible. This forge is for forging red hot iron and steel. I'm reiterating to save you time, frustration, and false expectancy. This forge is not meant to melt objects.
hard2bme says: Aug 23, 2011. 5:47 AM
i just cant get it right im using a hair dryer right now but i just cant get my charcoal hot enough it takes like 20 min to melt like a pound and a half of alum how can i make it hotter
dnorm says: May 23, 2010. 3:22 AM
i guess it would be a pain to buy real coal, but how about making your own charcoal?   all you need is wood, and a type of furnace  (which is what a forge is)    tho im sure you dont want to use chemically treated lumber, anything that has been painted, stained or varnished, particle or flake board or plywood, panelling, or any type of 'fake or composite'...     but scrap pieces of plank or 2x4's?    why not?...   and it wouldnt have the 'extras' the 'consumer' charcoal does...
Barricade823 says: Apr 14, 2010. 5:38 AM
OK so i really like this instructable
the only problem I have is that it took my like four or five reads and examining of the diagram here to realize what was going on.

If you could please maybe label or color the fire bricks different from the cinder blocks used to support the forge that would be great.

And another quick question, without putting a top on the forge, wouldnt that mean that all the heat would just quickly escape?

Thanks,
Nick
j902771 says: Feb 12, 2010. 9:07 AM
3 or 4 sheets of old dry news paper crumpled in to a loose ball laid in a triangle on top of the forge floor, then if you have any pine cones put a pine cone on top of the paper balls, then put your charcoal chunks or coal up the sides and all over the paper and pine cones,  just cover the whole thing up. then light the paper with a match.  slowly give this some air with your blower,  then a little more air after about 30 seconds,  then a little more,  and so on for about 1 and 1/2 minutes then pore on the air.  fire should be nice and hot.  Have been doing this for about 30 years.  works great.
spylock says: Dec 20, 2009. 5:39 PM
You can make one fairly easy out of a wheelbarrow,a couple fire bricks,clay,a squirrel cage fan,and a few plumbing parts,Id say 100.00 cost max,cheaper with and old wheelbarrow that you dont use anymore.I saw it made on a show called Forge And Anvil,I think,but Im sure you can find the disigns on the internet.
dciocoiu says: May 2, 2009. 12:26 PM
Not bad for a beginner black smith , but i would strongly advice to use fire place ciment that witstends very hot temperatures and you should paint the inside of the forge as well as the outside with the cement.
dogsoldier69 says: Mar 23, 2009. 9:19 AM
LIGHTER FLUID to start the forge?? BAD idea, as putting ANY kind of combustible fluid in to your forge is askin for trouble. Fast, awright...but dangerous?? SURE IS. Better (& more fulfillin, for what that's worth) to start your fire with wood shavins, kindling, then the charcoal/coal , add an air flow & there y'are
acer73 (author) says: May 20, 2007. 8:59 PM
Well this way takes longer but looks nicer and would last longer. Eventually the can would melt
BARBARIANROCKER in reply to acer73Mar 10, 2008. 12:09 PM
folks i use a castiron cooking pot to melt stuff down. the wife may not like it but oh well.
Vendigroth says: May 22, 2007. 11:00 AM
hey, acer73, great instructable and thanks for jioning the Forge. I'm looking forward to seeing some good stuff from you in the future, hopefully made with this forge. M'self, i'm planning to do an instructable on a forge, different to this but roughly the same size When i make it, i'll have to make stuff with it....
James (pseudo-geek) in reply to VendigrothDec 29, 2007. 2:45 AM
now here I've been wondering where that pic is from for months and now I realize its the "G-man" from Half-life 2
Vendigroth in reply to James (pseudo-geek)Dec 29, 2007. 4:26 AM
_
Best. Character. EVAR.
James (pseudo-geek) in reply to VendigrothDec 29, 2007. 1:08 PM
personally I hated him for what he was doing, but I LOVED how he talked, it was awesomely creepy.
Vendigroth in reply to James (pseudo-geek)Dec 29, 2007. 2:06 PM
it takes a little thought to realise that Gman's on Gordon's side.
James (pseudo-geek) in reply to VendigrothDec 29, 2007. 6:17 PM
o.O how so?
James (pseudo-geek) in reply to James (pseudo-geek)Dec 29, 2007. 6:19 PM
heres one of my reasons, which I believe is proof. the Vortagons cannot be evil, it is grafted into their nature to be on the good side. If they fought to stop the G-man, then he must be evil.
Vendigroth in reply to James (pseudo-geek)Dec 30, 2007. 5:57 AM
The Vortigaunts only fought against you in HL1 becaus they'd been enslaved. After that, they came to earth as refugees to help fight the Combine. They stopped Gman because they needed Gordon for their own tasks, like getting Alyx out of city-17. HOWEVAR: Gman rescued the baby Alyx from black mesa...and the Vortigaunts saved her life in Ep.2...each side's playing different games, using Gordon as the ball, so to speak.
acer73 (author) in reply to VendigrothMay 22, 2007. 11:21 PM
Im going on vacation this week and the week after that so i cant make it for another month. Thanks for the comment though
5George5 says: Dec 19, 2007. 9:42 PM
good instructable any metal subjected to heat oxidizes (rusts) much more quickly. it will flake off and mix with the metal which isnt a big deal unless you're melting gold or silver. then you need to use a graphite crucible. anyways it just gets weaker a lot quicker when it gets hot
jtobako says: May 23, 2007. 12:55 PM
Nice. A few points. CLAY brick works, and the only firebrick that the big box hardware stores carry (around here) are the 1" thick wood stove liners. You have to go to a ceramic supply for full size firebrick. I've heard that masons carry firebrick, but haven't had any luck there yet. How is a 1/4+ inch thick cast iron brake drum different than your steel plate? Electrical conduit is zinc plated (just not as thick). If you are using a steel plate, just drill holes in it where the flange comes in. A larger diameter pipe means you can drill more holes : ) My furnace blower hangs off the horizontal pipe using a floor flange-I cover up part (most) of the intake to control air flow. If your air pipes are getting hot enough to burn zinc, SOMETHING IS WRONG. And, a small amount of zinc won't hurt you.
acer73 (author) says: May 20, 2007. 10:18 PM
It doesn't take a lot of heat to melt aluninum, this is a medium scale forge. Were heating Steel and Iron Red Hot. You don't do that in a coffee can
FrenchCrawler in reply to acer73May 22, 2007. 12:47 AM
Aluminum melts at 1200 degrees F. I used a medium paint can as my crucible when I first started... but after the first batch of cans (about 30), the can couldn't hold up to the heat and sprung a leak. I'm still using the store charcoal, though I'm looking into getting some coke (not the drug).

My forge/furnace consists of a large (5 gallon) paint can buried into the ground with 2 metal pipes underneath. One pipe for drainage of any water that happens to get in and the other for the blower (I'm using a wet/dry vac). I have a round section of chicken wire in the middle of the can to hold the coal up on the sides of the furnace and in the middle while allowing the crucible to go into the middle and letting the ash through. I then take the vac and suck the ash out once the furnace cools down.

A simple furnace is described in the "Back to Basics" book. Instead of using the fire brick/ concrete, use a Truck Brake Drum and place a metal grate into the bottom. Here's a site to show what I mean.

Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!