Triangles are cheap these days. Your mobile phone can draw ten million of them in a second, and they'll be quite alright. I wanted to build something different. A triangle capable of being very dim or very bright. A triangle with tangible edges, a precise geometric lattice around soft pats of warm light.
In early 2013, I was prototyping techniques for building LED light sculptures with a very geometric look. I wanted to achieve a very uniform surface with very hard edges. This Instructable documents a technique I found for achieving this look using stacked laser-cut parts.
The project I prototyped this technique with is a 16-pixel equilateral triangle. It's made to match the spacing of commonly available WS2812B addressable LED strips with 60 pixels per meter. Several stacked layers form a painted diffusion cavity that extends all the way through the piece, completely separating the light emitted by each pixel. The top surface of each pixel is a precisely laser-cut inlay of white lighting acrylic, held in by stainless steel hardware.
Skills and tools you'll need for this technique:
Note that the particular bolts you pick should be sized according to the thickness of the actual materials you're working with. Measure your chipboard, acrylic, etc. with calipers. When stacking materials, small deviations in thickness can add up quickly. I usually try to have a range of bolt sizes on hand, and acorn nuts give a very finished look to the back side even if it's hard to predict exactly how much bolt will poke through.
This approach involves many laser-cut layers. From the front to the back:
The design files provided are for one part of each type. You'll need to cut bezels and at least one spacer out of nice acrylic (I used a black that's matte one one side and glossy on the other). The backing and other spacers can be whatever material you like. I use acrylic for the base, for strength. The LED form works well in chipboard, so it's a little thinner. This will give you a smaller gap between pixels where the LED strip passes under the spacer layers.
Try your design in paper first! You'll see how well it lines up with your LED strip before cutting any expensive acrylic.