This is a short guide on how to make a VERY simple laminate longbow. If at the end of this tutorial, you have any questions that are not answered, or you would like more detailed instructions on how to make a longbow, check out www.makingtraditionalbows.com
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Signing UpStep 1:
Step 1
Cut the laminates using a circular saw or a band saw. The dimensions of the belly laminate should be about 75" by 1 1/2" by 1", and the dimensions of the back laminate 75" by 1 1/2" by 3/16". The grain of the back laminate must run straight down the length of the board and be uncut.
When shooting a bow the belly side is towards you and the back is facing away.
Optional belly woods: Yew, osage, lemonwood, ipe, oak and more.
Woods for backing: Hickory, ash and more.







































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Also, although I don't have any photos, I have made a long bow from white oak. It's a shade under 7 feet and still isn't finished. I need a backing material and still need to tiller it. The backing material I am considering using is strips of bamboo flooring. I doubt I will find a length of 7 foot bamboo so I plan to finger joint a couple pieces together. Any thought son this.
Thanks,
Doug
felicitation
Offset or helical feathers on an arrow will make the arrow spin when it is in flight, just like a bullet shot from a rifle. If there are any inconsistencies in the the flight path of the arrow these inconsistencies will be spun in all directions, making the arrow more accurate.
I am quite sure that this style of fletching arrows do not make the arrow fly further, it is much more likely that it has the opposite effect, though I have not done any testing.
If you want to know more about tillering, I have written a book on how to make longbows and other traditional archery equipment and there is a free version which you can download for free at my site. The free version contains a lot of information on how to tiller a longbow: http://www.makingtraditionalbows.com/light.html
Examples of these types of wood are mentioned in step one.
Oak will also work for the back of a bow.
Avoid pine wood, it is not very reliable for a bow.
Chris
1 1/4" thick at the center of the bow (the exact dimensions depend on which type of wood you chose). A war bow bends all the way through the handle section (no handle raiser). Making a bow this way will maximise shooting distance, but you will lose some control and accuracy.
Chris
1. hold bow as normal and place lower end in ground
2. attach the slipknot of the string to the lower end
3. grasp the other end of the string and bend the bow down.
4. loop the knot over end.
5. check both ends for tightness (to see if the string is slipping or might when firing
Thats about it!
have fun and play safe
I have not tested the shooting distance of this bow, but my best guess is about 200 meters (218 yards) with the right arrow.
Chris
Chris
I have answered some of the questions and then I have updated the tutorial to address the rest of your questions. Thank you!
Chris
As mentioned, the draw weight also depends on your draw length (the distance from the back of the bow to the string when you draw the string back to shoot the arrow). On average when target shooting, this distance is 28" and most people use the corner of the mouth or the cheekbone as an anchor point.
In any case, there is no measure of how much power the bow has per say, unless you know exactly how far back you draw it every time, and you know the equations based on your bow, the type of wood, the string, your draw length, etc.
The hold position seems to come from a military background where archers worked in groups rather than a hunting style where they worked alone. For most native traditions the range was much closer than modern hunters would believe. 3 to 10 feet being the range for a honorable kill of the animal. "the arrow would enter the animal before the fletching/feathers passed the hand." It takes good stalking or hiding/camouflage/scent masking skills compared to a tree stand shot at 50 feet. A different skill set for a different time and tradition.
Other than that everything you said was right on.
Chris
Belly tapers are usually the fade from the thicker, unbending handle to the bending/working parts of the bow. Smooth and graceful to avoid a hinge type fracture of the wood.