Making a three stone diamond engagement ring.

So, you've met the girl of your dreams, and now you want to give her a beautiful ring as lasting symbol of your love.

Trouble is, you can't afford a fancy designer ring, and the ones you can afford are mass produced, studded with conflict diamonds, and polished in a sweatshop for your consumer pleasure. None of which attributes are terribly appropriate for lasting symbols of affection. Probably right up there with a flaming bag of poo.

So what's a young rogue to do? When in doubt grab a book, preferably one on wax jewelry making.. you'll need it.

This instructable will show you how to make a unique, but classic, three stone diamond and garnet ring using the "lost wax" process, and 100% conflict free stones.

Now, I'm not a jeweler, far from it, I'm actually a filmmaker (film reel http://www.abbeygateway.co.uk ), so if I can do this, anyone should be able to.

I'll be showing you the steps I took, the books I referenced, and all the tools I bought/used. I'm not claiming that I'm showing the 'correct' way to do this just the way I did it.

Please forgive the general crappyness of the photos, I own the world's suckiest point and click camera... go figure.

Step 1 Supplies

First up, this is not going to be cheap. It will cost you the same, or more than, the cost of buying a similar ring in a shop. But, your ring will be unique, and special. And, as an added bonus, if you factor the cost of equipment into the cost of the ring, she gets a sparkly ring and you get a box of wicked tools. Win, win (so long as she says "Yes!").

So, I know the thing most of you want to know is "How much does a project like this cost from scratch to finish?" Well if I said the average wage of an American is $30,000 then this project cost less than a months wage.

I make significantly less than average so it was a good deal more than a months wage for me... I know, I know, you can hear someone playing the world's smallest violin.

Any ways, supplies. Here's a list of the tools I bought. You probably don't need all of this stuff, but I didn't really feel like going half-arsed on this one, so I bought the right tools for the job.

The two suppliers I used were http://www.contenti.com and http://www.fdjtool.com

Reference Books:
Modeling in Wax for Jewelry and Sculpture, Lawrence Kallenberg
Jewelry Wax Modeling, Adolfo Mattiello

Equipment:
Bench:
Work bench (made from some free wood from ikea),
Bench Pin
Bench Vise

Magnifying Visor

Measuring and Marking:
Carbide scriber
Degree Gauge
3" Scribing Dividers
Vernier Callipers
Ruler
Ring mandrel

Sawing:
Jewlers saw frame
Saw blades 1/0, 2/0, 3/0
Fine spiral saw blades

Filing:
Wax needle file set
Standard needle file set
Large flat wax file
Double ended half circular wax file
Fine round needle file

Drilling/cutting:
Spiral Drill or Pin Vise
Drill bits, 0.8mm, 1mm, 1.3mm, 1.7mm
Fine wax detaliers
Exacto knife

Wax shaping:
Wax carving tools
Alcohol Lamp and denatured alcohol as fuel.
Cordless wax pen
Ring tube sizer

Flex shaft:
Flexshaft motor
#30 Handpiece
Wax burs
Wax detail burs
Wolf Tools wax trimmer
Cylinder bur 11.1mm
Jiffy Jig

Wax:
Wax wire assortment
Wax tablet assortment
Wax ring tube assortment

Comments

[blahblahblksheep]

This is really impressive. The finished product is absolutely stunning. Actually, stunning doesn't cut it. I honestly can't think of a word suitable enough to express how beautiful I think this ring is. Your wife to be is one lucky girl.!! Congratulations on everything!!

[mdeblasi1]

There is one important thing that you did not include in your parts and materials list. . . The years of experience it takes to become a proficient bench jeweler / wax carver. 
I have access to a complete jewelry studio and have been metal smithing since 2001 and I still wouldn't trust myself to carve accurate seats for faceted stones So yes, I love your work and was deeply impressed by your instructable, but shouldn't it have been posted on Ganoksin Orchid?

[lcastaño]

I find your comment rather pompous. Doesn't this prove you don't need to be a metal smith since 2001 to do this? I also find it interesting that this guy put his whole heart into this having no previous experience AND took the time to share with us. That's what this website is about. You should make YOUR own instructable, since you have so much experience and appear not to have made one yet. Then, you could add what you want on the materials list.

[mdeblasi1]

Modeling in Wax for Jewelry and Sculpture, Lawrence Kallenberg (Amazon used) $45.00
Jewelry Wax Modeling, Adolfo Mattiello (Amazon used $73.00)
     Does your library carry these books? Mine doesn't.
Equipment: (It looks like he may have gotten his supplies from Contenti –I priced RioGrande, basically the Sears of Jeweler's supplies.)
Bench: (The cheapest) $600
Work bench (made from some free wood from ikea), $0.00
Bench Pin $5.00
Bench Vise $250.00
Magnifying Visor $25.00
Carbide scriber $10.00
Degree Gauge $10.00
3" Scribing Dividers (the cheapest) $15.00
Vernier Callipers $33.00
Ruler $8.00
Ring mandrel $25.00
Jewlers saw frame (the cheapest) $10.50
Saw blades 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 (Approximately $4.00 for a 12 pack * 3=) $12.00
Fine spiral saw blades $4.50
Wax needle file set $20.00
Standard needle file set (average cheapest $50.00)
Large flat wax file $15.00
Double ended half circular wax file $35.00
Fine round needle file $15.00
Spiral Drill or Pin Vise $10.00
Drill bits, 0.8mm, 1mm, 1.3mm, 1.7mm (the cheapest are sold in 10 packs for $10.00) $40.00
Fine wax detaliers $10.00
Exacto knife (you've already got one of these— I'm going to give it to you) $0.00
I suggest $45.00 in wax.
Wax carving tools (the cheapest) $20.00
Alcohol Lamp and denatured alcohol as fuel. $8.00, let's just agree you have the fuel
Cordless wax pen (from Contenti, with replacement tips) $25.00

He used a CAD program for the design. Let's not include the $2000.00 that costs? And pretend you know how to hand draft.
Ring tube sizer $25.00
Flex shaft system entire, cheapest: $200 includes all components below
Flex shaft:
Flexshaft motor #30
Handpiece

Wax burs (the cheapest) $20.00
Wax detail burs (not sure what he wants here, lets throw in $10.00 to be conservative)
Wolf Tools wax trimmer $40.00
Cylinder bur 11.1mm (The cheapest) $10.00
Jiffy Jig (Contenti) $12.00
Wax: approxomately $45.00
Wax wire assortment Wax tablet assortment Wax ring tube assortment

Now we cast the ring—Let's send that out, for $100.00 rather then buy an oxy acetlyine rig including the gas, a crucible, casting investment, a casting form and a place to set all this up

It's time to polish the ring, I don't see that on his parts list, but in the photograph, there are still price tags on his polishers, from 7-15 dollars per. There are 14 tools in that holder lets say $140.00
There are also 3 setting burnishers to the side, The set seems to cost $70.00 Not listed stone setting pliers 20.00
Stone setting burrs for flex shaft $20.00
Polishing compound, three standard grades $15.00

We're not going to tally the cost of the metal, the stone, and the hours worked, because, That's the gift, right? So where are we?

$2091.00
Just about what it would cost you to set up a nice amateur jeweler's studio. Which is exactly what I said he had at the out set. Now that you are about 10 months late to the party Icasta, Thanks for bringing your troll.

[edwatkins]

First, If you are going post prices to prove a point don't overestimate them for effect.

Second, stop and think for awhile why I didn't post the prices of things on this instructable, which was really made to document for my wife how her ring was made....perhaps it was because leaving the price tag on a gift is the height of bad manners.

But since you went ahead and priced everything anyway, let me correct you, as I kept detailed notes on this:
The tools and wax cost $450 total.
I paid a trade Jeweller $110 to cast and polish the ring, and set the stones.
So, no Idea how you ended you with $2k.

The main cost of this ring was the gold and diamonds, and there's no way I'm telling you what they cost.

[mdeblasi1]

I don't know what the problem is with this instructable. I began by saying that in my experience, this could not possibly be done by a beginner, simply because of the cost of the tools involved.
No one believed me, People on your instructible were rude to me for mentioning it----rude months and months after I made the point!
I use these tools every day, I know where they come from and I know what they cost,
I also know what diamonds and gold costs and I know what a persons time is worth---like I said, that was the "gift." But the tools are an investment. A huge investment. Why in the world was that so impolitic to point out?

Finally, I think my estimate to cast was $100.  You paid $25 more than that for the shop to set and polished the stone --- great! congradulations!
How in the name of god is it any skin off any one's nose to suggest that aside from that, you did work, not magic; and work costs money.

[poonone]

So my "be nice" comment is… I just bought everything on his list for $550 but upgraded quite a few things since I may want them in the future. I am an artistic guy and believe I will have quite nice results. Incase anyone is wondering the true cost of these tools.

[poonone]

Oh, and warning! Noob mistake, you don't need the #30 head that he suggested in the parts list since it comes with the flexshaft… Gotta return that one.

[Jistmi]

And ya ended with troll wow!!

[edwatkins]

I can't speak for those that offended you, but it seems they took umbrage at your implication that a beginner could not do this, and that it would cost a fortune to do so.

I am a beginner, I did this, it did not cost me a fortune.
Now, can we let sleeping dogs lie?

If I could delete this whole thread I would do so, perhaps you would be so kind?

[edwatkins]

Hi, thanks for you comments.

I appreciate the skill and time needed to learn a craft to a professional level.
But, this was the first ring I ever carved (well the second if you count the disastrous first attempt with the wrong kind of wax).

Is it something you could sell in a jewelry store? Probably not, it's a bit squiggly, and the pillars aren't exactly the same length. But those imperfections are exactly what makes it so special to my wife and I, it's hand made, truly unique, one of a kind, flaws and all.

The day people stop doing things outside of their comfort zone, simply because they don't have the experience, is the day the human race stops innovating. I wonder how many airplanes there were before Mr Wright built his?

[Tool Using Animal]

Bravo, well said Sir.

[JettaKnight]

"I wonder how many airplanes there were before Mr Wright built his?"

Several, the Wright's just perfected what was already out there. Another step in the evolution of manned flight. Their was plenty of knowledge and experience out there, they just added to that knowledge base with their own ingenuity.

[edwatkins]

Not really my point, but sure.

[mdeblasi1]

Hats off to you Ed.  This is an admirable first wax carving project., but don't be so quick to discount that first disaster.  Every time I melt something, or break something in the studio I try to take a sanguine attitude towards it, and say "well, I learned never to do that again." 

A really tremendous thing about being a metal smith is the fact that your materials are recyclable; if you melt the pendant, roll it back out into sheet and start again.   And our tool kit, we really have one hell of a tool kit, from hammers torches and tongs, to the finest files and tweezers. 
Cheers,
Marya
By the way, are you a member of Orchid?

[Broom]

Um, I think his work made it pretty clear that those years of experience aren't absolutely necessary. After all, this isn't "ExpertsImproveTheirSkills.com"!

[mdeblasi1]

You may persist in believing so.  I tend to think otherwise.

[Funkmonk]

lmao @ mdeblasi1

[Broom]

Ah, you're so cute when you act all serious. Who's a good little jeweler? You are! I could just eat you up!

[mdeblasi1]

I beg your pardon?

[Broom]

Don't beg! You're cute enough as it is!

Make that disapproving face again... please?

[spasysheep]

LOLWUT?

[komecake]

  I think the point is to show people that they can do it. I try a lot of things on here and they don't turn out so good. Most of them look nothing like the pictures posted. Lol. But I feel inspired to try new crafts and sometimes it inspires a serious interest in something. You shouldn't not post something just because there are people on here who don't know how to do it. Isn't that the point of the website?

[Roflolommo]

I kinda hope I can find this again in like 70 years when I'm ready to settle down.

[rperez5]

Thanks For Sharing.

[quakefiend]

and this isn't what you do for a living?! You, sir, are insanely talented.

[hhornburg]

this is amazing.
If my man did that for me I would be endlessly thrilled!

[harigast]

i love this one. a great look at the process. if i tried this it would look something akin to the clown bed homer made for bart.

[lug big lug]

WIll plaster of paris work for the lost wax process?

[Klayton Kress]

"Apollo have limited inventory, but do sell loose stones to the public."
I was looking on their website to buy a diamond and it says," Apollo Diamond will be selling it's cut and polished cultured diamonds in finished pieces of jewelry. At present loose stones are not available." Is this information old, did they change their policies, or you buy your side diamonds elsewhere?

[edwatkins]

I bought mine from them two years ago. So they may have changed thier policy since I bought the diamonds.

However, I gave them a call and spoke to them directly when I ordered the stones, they were very nice and sold me them loose.

[Klayton Kress]

I messaged them on the site and they said you can call and order them, much as you said. Apparently you can't get them online but you can still get them.

[amir22]

GenuineTourmalines of this rare Paraiba type color,gem quality,and loop clean are being mined in Namibia.

[coilwound]

Where was this instructable in 2004 when I was busy hand carving our wedding bands from 2 tealight candles? You complained blue wax was too soft, try a tealight out...

I based all my skills on a jr high class project in colonial pewtersmithing, so much good information in this instructable I would have loved to know in 04.

Had I known this stuff, I may have tried to make the engagement ring also. I did make a custom ringbox of exotic woods for the engagement ring though and engraved it "hearts together, united forever, be mine, say yes!"

That project snowballed from a desire to have a slim unobtrusive box on 'question day' and not the huge 'whats that in your pocket?' box the jeweler gave me. It was exactly big enough to contain the ring and no more, if you held it upside down the ring could not be shaken out. Teflon lining assured no scratches too. All made with an xacto blade custom sharpened to become a hand plane. All her friends nearly ignored the ring, & went gaga over the box.

Knowing myself, I probably would have made some of those tools you used DIY style though.

Excellent Instructable!

[Big Tattoo]

Bravo, real nice for your first casting.

I recommend Metal Techniques for Craftsman by Oppi Untracht. Excellent book covering thoroughly many metal techniques from all over the world. A very valuable resource.

Screw the naysayers. If I wasn't like you and willing to attempt things I've never tried before I would not be able to make jewelry, cut my own gemstones of high quality, weld, fabricate metals of all kinds and blacksmith as well. Keep up the good work and congrats.

Big T

[wearingpink]

That is really cool. Your wife must be thrilled. That is dedication. And also unique and considerate. Wow.

[joflynn]

Re: sweatshops

I work at a jewelery manufacturer, and all of our products are made in the US from recycled metal. And you can buy our products at w*l-m*rt.

Love the instructable though.

[edwatkins]

I may have been over exaggerating slightly for comic effect, but it is great to hear that you can still by decent Jewelry in the chain stores that isn't sourced from the cheapest overseas supplier.

Hats off to you and your company. Keep up the good work.

[sockless]

I see that there is a tiny crack in the stone. Or is that just a trick of the light?

[edwatkins]

No crack, just a tiny fibre from the cotton wool pad it was resting on.