Making a three stone diamond engagement ring.

Step 18 Setting the stones.

Stone setting is an art form, there are numerous books devoted solely to the process, but the basics are as follows.

First the prongs of the setting are cut down to the correct length, usually 0.5mm - 1mm higher than the desired height of the set stone (depending on the stone's size).

Then v-shaped grooves are cut on the insides of the prongs, using a bur, at the height at which the girdle of the stone should sit in the seat.

The stones are then pushed into the seat and 'clip' into the grooves. The base of the stone should rest firmly in the hole in the seat, and the girdle should rest in the grooves.

The setter then uses a burnisher/pusher or modified graver to push the top of the prong over the stone.

He then shapes the top of the pushed over prong (usually to a round shape) using a bur or file, and polishes them.

See here or here for more detailed information on prong setting.

Comments

[maven]

I recommend Tim McCreight's - Complete Metalsmith.  It's a great How-to book my professor used as the class text for the Jewelry making and Metalsmithing classes at the University of North Texas.  It's very easy to understand, and covers casting, fabrication, and stone setting as well.

[tmross4]

You can purchase gem/stone setting pliers to help you set the stones. I got mine from www.firemountaingems.com. They're in the state of Washington. They also sell faceted gems (except diamonds).