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Making an army of Gromit's (Claymation Mold making)

Making an army of Gromit\
Fancy making a clay stop motion animation Aardman style?
Chances are that you will need more than one clay figure, in fact you'll probably need a small army.
Here's an inexpensive way to make 'clones' of your original sculpture.

Materials Needed:
Armature wire (1/16")
Van Aken Plastalina Clay
Sculpey
Foam Board
Paper
Packing Tape
InstaMold Mold Making Compound
Petroleum Jelly
Baby Oil (Mineral Oil)
Electric Drill
Pliers
Double Boiler (or cooking pot and glass mixing bowl)
Sculpting tools
Paint and brushes
Imagination, patience and a video camera (optional)
 
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Step 1Draw your character!

Draw your character!
First draw your character on a piece of paper (full size).
For a full sized character aim to draw it about 9-14" in size.

In this tutorial Gromit (being a dog) was fairly short at about 9".
Make the drawing fairly simple, something that will be possible to sculpt in clay, and for which you can envisage a simple wire armature (skeleton).
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66 comments
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Dec 25, 2009. 7:38 AMKarateLover21 says:
Very nice. I am currently making a stop motion with lego characters.
Jan 11, 2011. 4:49 PMthepelton says:
I had been thinking I would like to try Lego-mation. I really want to see how that turns out. What are you using for a camera?
Jan 12, 2011. 7:46 AMKarateLover21 says:
I am using a Canon FS200, it is amazing.
Jan 3, 2011. 3:32 PM9ale7 says:
For a start,
what motion software would you recommend
Free versions :P
May 4, 2009. 5:57 AMsharlston says:
use spell check you spelt ball bearing wrong
May 26, 2010. 6:44 AMKryptonite says:
He was just trying to help...
Jan 28, 2010. 12:35 PMjamiec53 says:
Haha! He got you there sharlston!
Apr 19, 2008. 4:47 PMdolabil66 says:
Awesome Instructable....I especially like you character
Jan 31, 2010. 7:50 AMporcupinemamma says:
Couldn't have said it better! I totally agree withdolabil66.  Way cool Instructable!  Thanks :0)
Jan 22, 2010. 11:40 AMbeanz55 says:
 awseokme
Jun 17, 2009. 2:13 AMmoo of the cow says:
OMG how to you sculpt so good??????? awsom job great ible
Jan 8, 2008. 4:16 PMPunkguyta says:
That's pretty nifty, I did always want to try sticking my hand in claymation, I've done stop motion but just with random objects. OH and by the way I think the intention most people have when they do the bowl-in-pot-of-hotwater thing, the intention is to actually have it site inside the pot??
Jan 8, 2008. 8:49 PMPunkguyta says:
I know why it's done, but when you did it, did you have the bowl sitting in/on the water or above it?
Jan 9, 2008. 4:59 AMPunkguyta says:
Ah okay, I thought it had to float on top to work. Oh and 1+ just for making an army of little Gromits.
Jan 12, 2008. 4:30 AMthebhgg says:
Umm..... As a trained cook, may I suggest that heat transfer is much better if the bowl is above the water NOT touching.

The reason is that the heat transfer happens when steam condenses to water (heat of vaporization = heat of condensation) . That happens at a very even temperature. This heat transfer is much more efficient (i.e. a more constant temperature) than 'mere' conductive heat from direct contact with hot water (and convection heat, because the water moves). You don't need lots of water for the double boiler, just always keep enough in the pan so you don't boil it dry.

Also, the bowl will be more stable. It won't have buoyancy issues with the water, and won't be rocked by the boiling.

If your bowl is not secure enough in your pot, may I suggest a twisted wiping rag (I use those blue-checked things that come in a roll) soaked with water around the rim of the pot. If you are using a flame heat (gas or propane), do be careful of the fire hazard! :-)

Jan 13, 2008. 1:59 AMPunkguyta says:
*Tunes into BBS mode*

>Umm..... As a trained cook, may I suggest that heat transfer is much better if the bowl is above the water NOT touching.

The reason is that the heat transfer happens when steam condenses to water (heat of vaporization = heat of condensation) . That happens at a very even temperature. This heat transfer is much more efficient (i.e. a more constant temperature) than 'mere' conductive heat from direct contact with hot water (and convection heat, because the water moves). You don't need lots of water for the double boiler, just always keep enough in the pan so you don't boil it dry.
.From my years of scientific study, I've found that conduction works better rather than radiation, which as far as I'm concerned works better as far as numbers and efficiency. What this "heat of vaporization = heat of condensation"?? If physics prove me right, when steam "happens" it's because of evaporation, which happens at all temperatures of water above freezing. However when boiling it does occur in greater amounts because the water is hot and therefore evaporates quicker because of the water rushing around and we see this as steam, which is as hot as the water, it's just water vapor, just like if you set a glass of water out for a few days, it loses water from evaporation.

That being said, condensation occurs because the steam (water vapor) has cooled down so instead of being gas, it turns to a liquid which is the state of water at room temperature when there is enough to collect into a droplet. If droplets are collection on the bottom of the bowl, yes the steam is heating the bowl up evenly, but by the time it reaches the bowl, it has already lost some of it's heat (re: Nuclear plants have mega insulated pipes in the turbines to keep the steam hot). However if the bowl is sitting on the water, although it may rock around if you have too much water, it would generally heat up quicker and be a "hotter" heat. The only reason this is done isn't for even-ness of heating, but rather for the feature of not having as much heat capacity, you know, so you don't BURN things like what would happen if you put the clay in an aluminum pot, instead of said bowl idea. I'd hate to say, but your theory may be wrong.

>Also, the bowl will be more stable. It won't have buoyancy issues with the water, and won't be rocked by the boiling.
. In all seriouslyness, it all depends on how much of a klutz you are, if you have any kind of a steady hand (which everyone except those that are ill/high/drug users) should have, then you just need to fill it up to touch the bottom of the bowl, it doesn't need to be so full that it pushes the bowl up, even if it pushes it up 1cm, it's entirely do-able.

>If your bowl is not secure enough in your pot, may I suggest a twisted wiping rag (I use those blue-checked things that come in a roll) soaked with water around the rim of the pot. If you are using a flame heat (gas or propane), do be careful of the fire hazard! :-)
. Who said I was actually making clay armies myself? I'd KILL to have that kind of time on my hands, however I have previously constructed units to float containers (plastic) in pots of water with popsicle sticks and tape, just needs a few (re: two or three, some people are bad with the words "couple, few, several, many") and it gives it room to float around but also doesn't let it tip in any direction, it worked great.
May 14, 2009. 10:01 AMwaterppk says:
Seems that you're confusing evaporation happening due to diffusion gradients, which are a difference in humidity levels (potential) from air near the top of an open cup of water to less humid air in a standard room. This phenomena is very different than what 'thebhgg' it talking about, where you're vaporizing (NOT evaporating) liquid from a boiling pot. Additionally, evaporation and condensation happen at a constant temperature, so you aren't losing any temperature by having the water vaporize from liquid to vapor and then condense on the cooler top pot (which really isn't cooler, it's just transferring heat out via a tiny thermal gradient through radiation/convection through the top of the pot), this condensation then transfers the heat of vaporization (heat of fusion) from the water which is condensing onto the pot into the liquid. This is why he recommends using a rag as a gasket on the top of the pot, as if you start with a very small amount of water and seal it in the pot (and remove conduction at the rim) you can recycle the water in a system in the pot, you'll not only heat up faster due to less mass, but you'll have to rarely fill your pot up with more water because it's sealed in the system. This all comes back to a fundamentals, you get burned not by the temperature of steam above the pot, but by the incredible heat transfer that occurs when the steam condenses on your skin and transfers the heat into your skin, which is unable to remove it quickly enough and hence you get badly burned. --- Side point is that you are burned by heat transfer, not by temperature, this is why on a really cold day (or really hot) you get burned/chilled by metal in your car, and not by your plastic/vinyl steering wheel. This is because the heat transfer in the metal is so much better than the plastic/vinyl, so more heat can be transferred faster than your body can remove it, and you get burned/frozen. If this doesn't make sense feel free to ask me and I'll do my best to clarify. If you're interested in learning this stuff go to school for engineering, you'll have to take a class (or two) on heat transfer!
Jan 12, 2008. 10:08 AMsilver912targa says:
This method is called "bain Marie" = Marie's bath
Probably because she invented it?
Lovely instructable!

Michel
Portugal
Feb 24, 2009. 8:30 AMTIMarshall says:
I love your tutorial, I'm going to be using it for my College Course, hopefully it will make it easier to use, and cheapish to get materials. Thanks for uploading this, TIMarshall
Jan 4, 2009. 5:42 AMspider007 says:
hi there anybody know were i can purchase Van Aken Plastalina Clay and InstaMold Mold Making Compound in the uk hellllllllp
Aug 24, 2008. 1:11 PMSunny124613 says:
nice instructable and i love wallace and Gromit!
Jun 15, 2008. 7:56 AMbubba77 says:
i grew up with wallace and gromit : ) great instructable
Aug 20, 2008. 2:24 PMevilgenius 398 says:
me too
Jan 14, 2008. 12:00 PMsaintshortckt says:
1) is that modelling clay? 2) the sculpture u make after putting it in the oven, is it flexible? 3) is the product 'deformable'?
Jan 15, 2008. 2:55 AMsaintshortckt says:
Yes thanks! What IS stop animation exactly? and that figure that you've kept on the paper in that photograph, is THAT figure itself deformable? and did you actually sit down and sculpt it yourself?!?! must be pretty hard work!
May 27, 2008. 3:15 PMtony stark says:
take a picture, move, take a picture, move, do it 900,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 more times, mess up, and try to start over!
Jan 15, 2008. 9:53 AMsaintshortckt says:
A frame or two once?! Does that mean that a one minute movie would take approximately 1500 different shots (at 25 fps), meaning a VERY long time! Is that how they make the movies on the commercial levels?
Apr 2, 2008. 5:40 PMHawaii00000 says:
Very cool
Mar 22, 2008. 9:57 AMSarsen says:
Great job! Very easy to understand ,but is there a way to make this mold last more than 4-6 or so uses? Thanks!
Mar 7, 2008. 5:46 PMcleanmonk says:
it looks like the real thing! wow!
Feb 27, 2008. 4:55 AMmorCadillac says:
W-o-w-! I'm speechless! This looks really professional and like a lot of work! But I guess the results are worth it :) Very nice instructable! Loves, Eda
Feb 18, 2008. 11:02 AMSedgewick17 says:
Very nice job. I would like to try this with some of the characters I have made.
Jan 27, 2008. 10:17 AMModelmaker93 says:
Hi am new to this site and i was just wondering can you use Newplast Plasticine for this? Here is my gromit made without a mould:
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