Edit 27.03.2016: This project is a little bit outdated and it looks like a brick. So a new smaller and more portable version is coming. So stay tuned!
Hello, i bought a geiger counter from RH electronics. But this counter doesn't have a casing. I will show you an ideal, portable geiger counter casing. Don't blame me for bad looking inside. We don't need to show our geiger counters to people. We need to use it for surviving and testing. So we need stable, usable, sensitive geiger counters. Not good looking hello kitty ones. I hope you understand me. So let's start!
Components and tools:
1xMyGeiger Geiger Counter v.2 ($100~)
1xMini Screwdriver set ($10)
1x150x80x58 Project box (You can 3d print your project box) ($5)
1xUtility knife ($3)
1xPermanent Marker ($2)
3xOld phones LCD windows
I used this bad stuff because i don't need expensive tools for making a simple geiger casing. You can use better tools if you want.
Step 1: Drilling and Smoothing
1.First decide the position of PCB into project box. Then mark the holes for drilling.
2.Drill holes for indicators, buttons and LCD.
First of all you need to drill the center of markers for LCD with screwdriver. Then insert knife to hole and turn it for harvesting. Then when the hole gets bigger you can start sharpening. Use utility knife for smoothing the edges at the end of the work.
3.This geiger counter has 3 buttons on it. But we need one of them for general use. I just drilled hole for Button "OK".
4.You can use LCD windows in your old phone. LCD has a lot of sheets in it. You must find out where to use them.
5.You will need a window for putting samples into. This is for getting real counts of them. Because air is a very good isolator and dictance makes a lot of difference on countings.
Step 2: Buttons, Indicators
I want to keep the spirit of PCB and i didn't unsoldered buttons. I used a small plastic button head and battery nail for reaching top. You can find your nail in AA batteries with zinc-carbon. Also you will need a isolating square for LCD. Because we don't want any dust on the LCD.
I used same LCD sheets in heatsink for mirroring LED to the top.
Why i used heatsink for buzzer?
Because when you assembly this, you can't hear much sound from buzzer. We need to bring more sound to the top. Heatsink is very good for it.
Step 3: Assembly
Now we need to assembly every part. When you finish assembly you need to test for buzzer sound and led indicators. Heatsinks must be upright. When everything is okay you can clean marker dots with acetone and start writing indicators, names..
Step 4: Badboy Is Ready!
I am showing two samples for testing. I have other hot samples but this two is better for this project. Also you can watch the video.
Prepare for nucleer accidents or nucleer war!