True "experts" of a trade know those little "simple tricks" that make a job much easier. This is one of those tricks that makes working with pipe MUCH easier. I learned this wonderful way of making saddle cuts years ago, but only recently learned very few people know about this. So, I thought I would share. I know the first time it was shown to me, I said "That's amazing!" I can only hope your feel the same!
All you need to make wonderful looking and fitting saddle cuts is a bandsaw or chop saw.
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Signing UpStep 1: Setting up for the cut
I'm gonna show all this being done on a bandsaw, only because it is much easier to photograph. A chop saw or cold cut saw works just as well.
First, set the saw to 35 degrees. This does not have to be exact. 33 to 37 degrees should work, it will just change how much is cut off.
Get some scrap pipe, and set the pipe in the saw. Then adjust the length to be cut off. The cut will NOT be made in the center of the pipe, in this example, the blade is about 3/16 of an inch from center. One could use math to figure out the offset, but it doesn't take too many cuts to begin understanding how cutting off more or less of the pipe affects the saddle. But for now, don't worry about where you make the cut.
Once the pipe is tight in the vise, I use a C-clamp as a stop. When the pipe is turned half a rotation, the clamp will ensure the same length of cut is being made. On every chop saw I've used, it's impossible to use a C-clamp, so I use a sliding square, and measure in from the end of the vise. However, when the pipe is turned, the square will be in the cut. If precision is not needed, just eyeball across the end of the pipe to the end of the straight edge. Or, lay a strap iron across the end of the pipe. A bit more complicated and time consuming...
First, set the saw to 35 degrees. This does not have to be exact. 33 to 37 degrees should work, it will just change how much is cut off.
Get some scrap pipe, and set the pipe in the saw. Then adjust the length to be cut off. The cut will NOT be made in the center of the pipe, in this example, the blade is about 3/16 of an inch from center. One could use math to figure out the offset, but it doesn't take too many cuts to begin understanding how cutting off more or less of the pipe affects the saddle. But for now, don't worry about where you make the cut.
Once the pipe is tight in the vise, I use a C-clamp as a stop. When the pipe is turned half a rotation, the clamp will ensure the same length of cut is being made. On every chop saw I've used, it's impossible to use a C-clamp, so I use a sliding square, and measure in from the end of the vise. However, when the pipe is turned, the square will be in the cut. If precision is not needed, just eyeball across the end of the pipe to the end of the straight edge. Or, lay a strap iron across the end of the pipe. A bit more complicated and time consuming...
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the easy way is to set the drill in the center of the hole saw just before the end of the tube then cut through the hole saw neads to be the same size as the tube you want to conect to not the size of the tube you are cutting ie if you are wanting to join a 1 inch tube to a 2 inch tube then use a 2 inch hole sawthat way you get perfect jointsif you want to have the joint at an angle then just drill through at the required angle. very easy to do.
Made my first saddle cut on 2 3/8 production tubing using a chop saw. set it on another piece of pipe and tapped it with a 4 lb shop hammer. 3 hours later it was still standing. I couldn't believe it after all these years of trying to cut them with a torch and having to grind them down to fit and giving up.
I tinkered with an end stop on my chop saw, ended up using a piece of 1inch angle 1/8 inch thick and screwed it down to the deck two self drilling hex head screws, works great. I am building a hay feeder and will be making a lot of saddle cuts. Previously I had been taking a sledge hammer and flattening the ends of the pipe so they would be easier to weld. Now I can make the fittings to look like I know what I am doing.
It is too bad the government can't come up with a simple solution as this is.
I thank you very much for taking the time to show such a great idea.
I hope I helped a little.
or taking a grinder and making a perfect (ha ha) half-round to articulate with the other pipe.
One question . . . do you personally use the saw to back bevel the pipes when you cut the angles, therefore making the cuts sharper on the exterior, narrower on the inside to them fit even better?
Really GREAT IDEA. Thanks,
Robb
Grand Rapids, Michigan
It looks like you have made your cuts at 90 degree angle to the pipe. I would think that if you set the saw angle so that the the angles were "undercut" meaning that there ends up being a bevel on the pipe cuts, you would have an even tighter joint at the connection.
If I could, I'd send you a sketch to show you what I mean. Maybe this crazy drawing will help ;
outside of pipe
PIPE cut on an angle _ / rather than |_
Inside of pipe
Why am I asking this? Cause I'm a lousy welder with a cheap as heck rig. I need all the advantages I can get.
Robb, Michigan
Tim
get in the way.
With equal diameter bamboo, the joint has to be a cross section of a circle or the joining piece of bamboo will tend to split.
Too cool!
www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi
You just made me look good and finish sooner.
Fred
Thanks for your idea!
Excellent
When it's done, it'll fit PERFECTLY. For jewelry scale saddle joints...1/8" and under, small round files work wonders. couple quick strokes, and you're ready to solder.
For industrial scale(aka Bigger than 1" pipe?) this is an EXCELLENT trick that's going into my makers book.